D9TE-AB 460 swap

I recently came across a complete 460 motor off a mobile home for $350. The guy said it had 48k miles and worked when it was pulled about 8 months ago. He said he even started it a couple months ago and it threw fire out of the exhaust manifolds. So I bought it...

The casting number on the block is D9TE-AB, which means it is a 79 or up block. I called a guy that rebuilds these motors to ask about swapping it for my 302 and he said it wouldn't work in my Mustang because it is externally balanced. I would think you just get the correct flywheel and balancer and it should work, correct?

Thanks,

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I recently came across a complete 460 motor off a mobile home for $350. The guy said it had 48k miles and worked when it was pulled about 8 months ago. He said he even started it a couple months ago and it threw fire out of the exhaust manifolds. So I bought it...

The casting number on the block is D9TE-AB, which means it is a 79 or up block. I called a guy that rebuilds these motors to ask about swapping it for my 302 and he said it wouldn't work in my Mustang because it is externally balanced. I would think you just get the correct flywheel and balancer and it should work, correct?

Thanks,

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The fact that it is externally balanced in and of itself has nothing to do with whether or not it will "work" in your Mustang. 351C's are externally balanced and they seem to work just fine. The 460 will work you just won't be using your current transmission and flywheel because they are not compatible with the 385 series big block.

You will need a trans with the big block bellhousing bolt pattern and a correctly weighted flywheel from a 460 application.

That was exactly what I thought. I know I will need to swap my C4 for a C6 and my rear end as well (8 inch). But he made it sound like it wouldn't work just because it was externally balanced, he said it would vibrate. The guy has built and swapped several big blocks, it looks like he knows his stuff; so it got me worried. I thought I'd check with the experts in this forum. He probably wants me to buy one of the rebuilt motors he has for $3k.

I originally went to his shop because he was selling a rebuilt 351w with about 20k miles for $900, which is not a bad deal. While I was there he showed me the rebuilt big blocks he had; his 79 and 85 trucks (where he swapped the original motors for 460s); and a 69 Fairlane where he put in a 460. So that got me all excited about putting a big block in my Mustang; and ended up buying this 460 instead of his 351w.

Here is a pic. I am worried that 1/2 ton engine stand won't be able to hold it. I had originally bought that stand for a 351w.



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That was exactly what I thought. I know I will need to swap my C4 for a C6 and my rear end as well (8 inch). But he made it sound like it wouldn't work just because it was externally balanced, he said it would vibrate. The guy has built and swapped several big blocks, it looks like he knows his stuff; so it got me worried. I thought I'd check with the experts in this forum. He probably wants me to buy one of the rebuilt motors he has for $3k.

I originally went to his shop because he was selling a rebuilt 351w with about 20k miles for $900, which is not a bad deal. While I was there he showed me the rebuilt big blocks he had; his 79 and 85 trucks (where he swapped the original motors for 460s); and a 69 Fairlane where he put in a 460. So that got me all excited about putting a big block in my Mustang; and ended up buying this 460 instead of his 351w.

Here is a pic. I am worried that 1/2 ton engine stand won't be able to hold it. I had originally bought that stand for a 351w.

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Is that an efi engine?

No, it's carbureted.

I have an Edelbrock 600 cfm 1406 which I was going to use in a 351w I was going to rebuild which I bought 2 months ago and sold yesterday. I am thinking I might need to go up to a 750 cfm carb now.

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Are you replacing something with this engine or?

I don't know that a '79 vintage 460 motor home engine is going to win to many races.

Compared to late '60's engines, that engine has much lower compression and a much smaller camshaft design to make low rpm torque and meet new (for the late '70's) stricter emissions requirements. I don't know that the added expense in changing motor mounts, transmission, radiator, exhaust is worth it without upgrading the engine first.

My point is, if you want more power and already have a small block, it may be cheaper to sink the money into upgrading what you have...

I'm not planning on racing it, but I do want to feel the power when I step on it. It will be a street car, most likely a weekend cruiser. But I don't want a classic that looks good and doesn't throw me back in the seat when I step on it.

It currently has a 2 bbl 302 with a C4 and an 8 inch with probably a 2.7 gear ratio. When I step on it, it eventually starts going fast, but doesn't really throw me back.

I had bought the 351w with plans of rebuilding it to get a little more torque and power. At first I wanted to stroke it to a 408w, but then learned that project ends up costing about $3-$5k, and that is too much for me right now. I was also planning on swapping the rear end for an 8.8" with a 3.73 locking diff from an explorer either way. I got an Edelbrock performer 289 intake for $45 and the Edelbrock carb for $35 which I was going to use in the 302 while I got the 351 ready.

Then I found this 460 for $350 and decided to go for it. I figured I was getting over 400 cubic inches without having to stroke it. I can probably swap the cam and some bolt ons. I will research what the CR is for these.

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A 79-86 460 will be a low compression engine. However it will respond well to some simple bolt on improvements.

These engines had timing chain sets with cam retard built in. Installing a pre 72 "straight up" timing set will make a noticeable improvement even with the stock cam. Upgrading the cam will obviously result in an even bigger performance gain.

Recurve the distributor. You want about 12-14 degrees initial timing and 22-24 degrees mechanical timing for total timing of 36 degrees. You will probably need to limit the vacuum advance because many of the OEM units will supply to much vacuum advance for the new curve.

Use a regular Edelbrock Performer intake manifold with a 750+/- cfm vacuum secondary carb. I like the Quick Fuel 735 VS but the Summit 750 VS carb will work fine if budget is a concern.

Headers are desirable but not absolutely necessary but a good free flowing dual exhaust system is.

You will want a minimum 3.25 gear ratio in your new 8.8 or 9" rear.

The above mods will give you a fun street engine that will fry the tires at will.

The next step up would be to utilize small chamber heads either factory iron or aftermarket aluminum in place of the large chamber D3 heads to raise the compression ratio. This will allow you to get a little more aggressive with cam selection.

Stock compression ratio is about 8:1 or a little less... As it sits, it will be very uninspiring at best, IMO.

I have darned near the exact engine combo that Tommy described in an engine on a stand.

- Mid 70's Lincoln, stock bottom end, dished pistons

- C9 closed chamber heads, very minor porting

- Lunati Bracketmaster hydraulic flat tappett #10340496 cam

- Regular Edelbrock Performer, not RPM

- Carb will most likely be the Holley #3310 750 that I have on a shelf

- Harland Sharp roller rockers

- Stock C6 with a vintage Hughes streetable converter

One of the big things that will keep it out of my car will be exhaust choices... there aren't many. Manifolds, no problem. Headers are expensive, choices few, and quality (ie. perfect, no interference fit) is questionable from what I've read over the many years of considering this combo.

Do I wanna use it? Oh hell yes.

But the GT40 headed, B-303 cammed, stock rotating assembly'd 351W sitting next to it on another stand is calling to me. I wanna try it, too. Header choices galore, trans choices galore, intake choices... well, I have a few.

I figure, if I hate it or blow it up, the 460 is there with bells on, waiting its turn.

For storage, I did trim up a 2x4 that goes behind the balancer on the crank snout, down to the engine stand feet to relieve a majority of that torque that the backbone of the stand is supporting. A big block just isn't safe on a regular stand, please be careful.

Thanks for all the input. My current 73 302 is also a low compression engine (8-8.5 to 1); that is what got me started down this path of swapping the engine. The current engine works fine, no major issues except for timing and a little carb tuning. In a way I think I'm a bit crazy for looking into swapping a perfectly working engine and transmission for something else. I owned an LS1 Trans Am for about a year before this Mustang and would like to have similar power.

I am not in a hurry to do the swap, so I will probably start looking for parts. That is one of the good things of living in such a large city like Houston, I can find almost anything in Craigslist and similar websites/apps. I found ads for 3 pairs of D0VE heads for $350, $800 and $1000 respectively.

I am looking at getting an engine cradle or setting it on a tire instead of having it on the stand. I currently have it on the stand with the engine hoist in place relieving some of the weight.

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I owned an LS1 Trans Am for about a year before this Mustang and would like to have similar power.

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Then swap an LS into your car, that'll drive them nuts!

The largest cost of doing a 429/260 swap is all the changes you'll need to make and the accessories. Price out headers, mounts, brackets etc and you'll really have to take a step back and look at it again.

Then swap an LS into your car, that'll drive them nuts!

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Lol.....nope, I wouldn't do that to a Mustang.

Yes, I know that putting a Windsor is the less complicated way to go. I can keep my transmission and there are more aftermarket parts. I can do a carb rebuild, change fuel pump, change water pump, stuff like that; but I am not sure I have the skills required to swap motors, so I would take it to a shop.

I called different shops, and the difference between swapping a 351w and a 460 is pretty much the price of the motor and tranny. The 460 cost me $350 and I can get a working C6 for $450 or a rebuildable core for $50-$75. Regardless of which option I choose, I would still swap the rear end as I don't like the tall gears I currently have, and get an exhaust system, as it currently has a single exhaust system with a leak at the manifold on the driver's side. Obviously if I start buying parts for the 460, the total price goes up, but as they say....there is no replacement for displacement.

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I'd recommend changing your rear gear from 2.7 to 3.5 or 3.35:1 and see if that makes a sufficient difference in perceived power. It should...

I agree, start with the rear end swap and fix your carb. Evan if you decide to swap, selling those pieves will be easier if you do this first.

Also, consider if you are going to change heads on the 460, you might be better off keeping the stock heads and upgrading to a higher compression piston-plus with fresh pistons, rings bearings and timing set, you are close to a complete rebuild. A fresh oil pump is also cheap insurance.

As it sits, that engine probably makes little more horsepower than a tuned stock 351, but torque will be better.

Then swap an LS into your car, that'll drive them nuts!

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Lol.....nope, I wouldn't do that to a Mustang.

Yes, I know that putting a Windsor is the less complicated way to go. I can keep my transmission and there are more aftermarket parts. I can do a carb rebuild, change fuel pump, change water pump, stuff like that; but I am not sure I have the skills required to swap motors, so I would take it to a shop.

I called different shops, and the difference between swapping a 351w and a 460 is pretty much the price of the motor and tranny. The 460 cost me $350 and I can get a working C6 for $450 or a rebuildable core for $50-$75. Regardless of which option I choose, I would still swap the rear end as I don't like the tall gears I currently have, and get an exhaust system, as it currently has a single exhaust system with a leak at the manifold on the driver's side. Obviously if I start buying parts for the 460, the total price goes up, but as they say....there is no replacement for displacement.

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+1 ^^^

Before I bought this motor, my plan was to start with the rear end, and take my time with gathering parts and rebuilding the 351w.

In the meantime, I was planning to swap the intake and carb in the 302 for the Performer 289 intake (I checked and it is not the performer RPM) and an Edelbrock 1406 carb. If I liked the power with those 3 mods, I would probably leave it at that as far as drive train mods.

Then I met with this guy selling the rebuilt 351w and thought it would be less expensive to buy that than to rebuild the one I had. But when he started showing me all the big block motors....I fell in love with them haha. So in a somewhat spur of the moment thing I called the guy selling the 460 and bought it for $350, posted an ad for the 351w and sold it the next day for $340 (I originally bought it for $275).

For now I think I will stick to my original plan of starting with the rear end and swapping the intake and carb and see where that gets me.

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Also, consider if you are going to change heads on the 460, you might be better off keeping the stock heads and upgrading to a higher compression piston-plus with fresh pistons, rings bearings and timing set, you are close to a complete rebuild. A fresh oil pump is also cheap insurance.

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I checked with the guy selling the D0VE heads for $350. He has 2 pairs, they both need work; one has the complete valvetrain assembly the other one just double springs.

What you mention is worth looking into. If I disassemble the engine and swap pistons to raise compression what kind of machine work would I need, assuming it does not need boring? Will just cleaning, honing, and new freeze plugs suffice?

I'm thinking that if the D0VE heads need machine work, I'll probably spend an additional $350-$450.

My goal is not to build a race engine, just a fun street car.

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Cleaning and honing-freeze plugs are probably unnecessary- I would replace cam bearing in any block that has had machine work.

you really have to inspect before deciding what to do- if the bores are worn, then getting them bored is necessary

Remember you'll need your rotating assembly rebalanced. It is not a cheap solution, but it is worth doing right if you don't want to do it multiple times or settle for so so results.

Stock heads will flow well enough to get the power level up to 400+ hp with the right cam and compression ratio

If you're patient, you can get a rebuildable set of D0VE heads for $200. Don't forget, the C8 and C9 are essentially the same casting. Plan on new guides, valves, springs, keepers, guide plates, and a set of pushrods. You can also go for hard exhaust seats, but unless the heads you're reconditioning have worn out seats, you can get by w/o them. You'll also need a set of rocker arms if you swap to the C8/C9/D0VE castings. You can go cheap and use stock stamped with the CJ style fulcrum or go for the best roller rockers.

I can't tell how beefy your engine stand is, but I would definitely remove all the accessories and exhaust manifolds...that's a LOT of weight...I think a 385 long block with manifolds is something like 750lbs.