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Valley Pan To Use or Not to Use that is the question


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As I get the Cleveland back together it occurred to me that I need to replace the valley pan - the one I took off...well...lets just say it's not serviceable any longer.

 

I've read that some don't replace them, just use gaskets. I haven't see where anyone has said that there IS a benefit to not using one.

 

Should the valley pan be used with the Edelbrock Performer 2750 Intake Manifold?

 

PostMach-2_zpsb4rrtkrf.jpg

 

 

HeadsOnpic-1_zps11pc15xo.jpg

Thanks

 

Tim

Tucson, Az

1973 SportsRoof

351C bored .040

Crank .020  and Stock cam

Flattop pistons

Edelbrock 4bbl CARB 800 CFM ELEC CHOKE

Edelbrock Performer 2750 Intake Manifold

 

NewPrimedHood_zpsw2jaj0cu.jpg

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The pan keeps the underside of the intake cooler which helps a little in a hot climate. And with out it the oil that splashes up could burn fast to where exhaust crossover (if used) is. You must always use a new turkey pan to get it seal right if that what you going to do. Some folks use both, I just use the pan.

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Some use both the pan and gaskets together?

Thanks

 

Tim

Tucson, Az

1973 SportsRoof

351C bored .040

Crank .020  and Stock cam

Flattop pistons

Edelbrock 4bbl CARB 800 CFM ELEC CHOKE

Edelbrock Performer 2750 Intake Manifold

 

NewPrimedHood_zpsw2jaj0cu.jpg

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I did just that and it fit fine with the pan. So that's how I'll rebuild it.

Thanks for the tip!!!!

Tim

 

Put the pan in position and place the intake on top to make sure it will fit. Some manifolds drop down enough to interfere with the pan, so it becomes a moot point.

Thanks

 

Tim

Tucson, Az

1973 SportsRoof

351C bored .040

Crank .020  and Stock cam

Flattop pistons

Edelbrock 4bbl CARB 800 CFM ELEC CHOKE

Edelbrock Performer 2750 Intake Manifold

 

NewPrimedHood_zpsw2jaj0cu.jpg

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I never used one on my Cleveland, I was running an Eddie air gap so the intake heating up really wasn't an issue.

No problems there.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP hardware - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe - Duraspark - MSD digital 6al box - MSD TFI coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - lakewood traction bars.                                            

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Tim, there have been lots of post on this subject. (Google search, top right.)

From what I learned, it is best to run the pan if you have a stock manifold with the heat cross-over passage for the carb. Even though I blocked off the passages in the manifold, I still used the pan and paper gaskets supplied in the Fel-Pro set. TIP: do NOT use the rubber end seals. Use "The Right Stuff" brand of RTV as it is way stronger than regular RTV. Yes, it is expensive, but worth it in the long run. Also, RTV does not stand up to gasoline, so use aircraft Permatex gasket sealer or Permatex 2 around the inlet ports as described in the Fel-Pro instructions.

That's my take on it and I have had no issues since adopting this method.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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Unfortunately the person who installed my edelbrock manifold used the pan AND thr rubber end seals. From what I've read here it sounds like I'll be doing the job over! Is there any prayer those end seals won't walk out? Sorry for the hijack Tim. I'm just kicking myself for letting someone do the work.

 

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If their isn't any oil or vacuum leaks I would just run it.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP hardware - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe - Duraspark - MSD digital 6al box - MSD TFI coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - lakewood traction bars.                                            

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Happily. The car has never run better. Had a huge oil leak last week right where the rear of thr manifold is and I thought that was the end of it but it turned out to be the oil sending unit. It's new but was leaking from the threads. Had to wrap them (guage still works) and no more leak. For now.

 

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I have always used it, read in a really once in an old manual its supposed to keep hot oil off the intake and thus making intake air temp cooler but its getting harder and harder to find stuff like this anymore.

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Unfortunately the person who installed my edelbrock manifold used the pan AND thr rubber end seals. From what I've read here it sounds like I'll be doing the job over! Is there any prayer those end seals won't walk out? Sorry for the hijack Tim. I'm just kicking myself for letting someone do the work.

 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

Just to quickly say that if it ain't broke, don't fix it!! Personally, I have only dealt with a stock manifold, so I can't really comment on the installation of an Edelbrock. I would keep an eye on it, especially the rear end seal. IF it starts to leak, then fix it, till then enjoy it.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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Happily. The car has never run better. Had a huge oil leak last week right where the rear of thr manifold is and I thought that was the end of it but it turned out to be the oil sending unit. It's new but was leaking from the threads. Had to wrap them (guage still works) and no more leak. For now.

 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

Further to my previous reply, good catch. Mine was leaking too after the engine builder forgot to tighten it, but I also had the end seals leaking, so that's when I did it myself as described.

 

Tim, I hope you're not too confused yet, but also hope there has been useful help here. The pan was a stock part, but I think aftermarket suppliers like Fel-Pro added the paper gasket to help seal the manifold. These gaskets are only about .020" thick, not like the ones for using without the pan, which are about .060" thick.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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Thanks for all the comment and suggestions. I'm going to use the pan, the paper gasket, and the rubber ends. Why:

 

I had the heads done last Oct while my wife and I were in Italy. I wanted to drive when we got back so I had the guys pull everything and reinstall when the heads were done. They didn't not use the paper gasket nor the end rubber gaskets. I know, since tearing down the engine to get it bored. The amount of sealant they used was astronomical particularly on the ends and is just looked bad.

Thanks

 

Tim

Tucson, Az

1973 SportsRoof

351C bored .040

Crank .020  and Stock cam

Flattop pistons

Edelbrock 4bbl CARB 800 CFM ELEC CHOKE

Edelbrock Performer 2750 Intake Manifold

 

NewPrimedHood_zpsw2jaj0cu.jpg

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I've done many intake installs where I DID use the end seals. The thing to make sure of is that the deck and/or heads haven't been milled such that there isn't enough room for the end seals. If it turns out that there isn't proper spacing, you'll need to use The Right Stuff.

 

Next, use the 3M Yellow Super Weatherstrip Adhesive (the black may be OK, but I've never used it...can't vouch for it) to hold the end gaskets in place. Wipe the block surface with rubbing alcohol or acetone. Use a thin bead of RTV at each corner at the intersection of the head and block (the narrow surface you're gluing the end gaskets to). Put the weather strip adhesive on the narrow strip of engine block, then lay each end piece in place. You can smear a little RTV on the top of that corner joint also....a little RTV goes a long way. Make sure you have the vertically oriented studs screwed into the heads so you can place the manifold straight down...this will keep from accidentally sliding a gasket out of place. Torque per Edelbrock recommendations.

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Guest Pastel Blue

Had the end seals installed on my recent 429 rebuild. More about the stock factory look then anything else. If you take tour time and prep everything properly, should be good to go. I will find out on my engine soon as we are going to fire it up for the first time in the next week or so.

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