.051" on the manifold (side) and .037" on piston (bottom). As I was wondering about the shave on the manifold....between bottom and side to maintain correct manifold fit. That is great information as I had not laid it out or done the math to check.
+1 I just got a set of Aussie 2V heads complete done ready to go for under $1,500. Got them from Power heads. I also opted for the cam kit to go with them so they installed the correct valve springs for me as well.
Sweet!! Maybe for my next engine build if it ever happens. Good to know they are available at not too bad price. I would ask 750 for the N heads I have with studs already put in and they still need valves and guides done. Machining for studs alone would be over 500 bucks here.
You're quite right on 2V heads being better at low end. 4V heads are really not much good till it hits 3500 rpm. Mine takes off like a rocket at that point.
Yes I do realize what you were getting at and my point too. That is why I suggested changing the heads if necessary, as shaving the height is asking for all sort of problems that anyone with basic math knowledge will understand. Besides any more than 10:1 with the gas we have these days should be more than enough for any street engine. You're like me, I could care less about someone outrunning me on the street. I know that I too have a cool car and will get speeding tickets just as easy as the guy with 600 hp and all the engine add-on do-dads.My point mentioning [not very well made] that my engine had been bored was that you can order pistons for your specific bore that should get the compression ratio you're after, without having to shave the heads and then do more math. For instance, I ordered my pistons knowing that with a normal head and deck height measurements, even being over-bored, would land me 9.5:1 compression - which is what I was after as well. KB already did the math - all he'd need to do is order the pistons to suit his needs, rather than all the machine work.
Shaving the heads is inviting other issues - for instance, valve/piston interference. They might not clear if a cam with greater lift, or higher ratio rocker arms are used (I went with both, and have no issues).
No arguments here on anything... just sharing what I did for mine. Mine's not going to see any track time or street racing, it's more just a cruiser and might be called on now and then for a burn-out once in a while. I have nothing to prove and could care less if someone's fart-cannon equipped Civic or EVO can out-run me - I already know my car is cool.
The biggest decision is, "what is the car expected to do?" Once that's established, then decide what direction to go.
Just my personal perspective, but if you are only able to invest minimally, would it not be better just freshen up what you have. A basic rebuild may be in order. But, as soon as you get into machine work, you're looking at anywhere from 80 to 100 bucks an hour labor. ( may be cheaper at less competent shops!) Check out the availability of higher compression pistons or heads already done as that may be cheaper than machine work.
