Pulling motor

For my 72 Mach 1 can the motor and transmission be pulled and installed as a unit or do they need to be separated? Removing the grill and radiator support make things any easier?

The hood of course is a given.

Thanks

Wade

Can be done both ways. No need to remove rad support

For my 72 Mach 1 can the motor and transmission be pulled and installed as a unit or do they need to be separated? Removing the grill and radiator support make things any easier?

The hood of course is a given.

Thanks

Wade

Click to expand...

I pulled and installed my motor and MANUAL trans together, but I am not sure about an automatic. It probably can be pulled as one. Others will comment I'm sure.

Things you need to watch for or do first;

Get a hoist that is at least 2 ton and has adequate reach and lift height otherwise you will need to strip the entire front right to the rad support. I say this because all I had the last time was a 1 ton hoist and could only just get clearance over the rad support.

Watch for the center drag link and make sure nothing catches on it as you lift the motor up and forward. Ask me how I know??

An engine leveler is a great idea, but you will need that extra lift height. In my case, I had to work from the front, but I think it can be done from the side over the fender. That would save stripping all the front end down other than the rad.

Pulling the motor is really quite easy, just make sure everything is disconnected, linkages, clutch Z bar if a manual, etc. etc.

For my install, I used a low profile jack ( you will need it to get under the tailstock) While one guy was lowering the engine in, I was lifting the tailstock so it all went in level. Depending on your exhaust, you may need to get it out of the way. Mine is an H pipe and just cleared.

Again, this was with a manual trans and only took about 20 minutes to get it in.

Hope that helps and good luck.

Yep, that's how I do mine all the time. I have a 1/2 ton electric hoist in my rafters. Used a carb plate to hook to. Heres a pic of how I dropped mine in....

Yep, that's how I do mine all the time. I have a 1/2 ton electric hoist in my rafters. Used a carb plate to hook to. Heres a pic of how I dropped mine in....

Click to expand...

!/2 ton hoist in the rafters! That's doing it the easy way. Unfortunately many don't have that luxury.

Good point on using a carb plate. Using the lift plates on the exhaust manifolds and chains can be a pain and damage the valve covers if not removed first. Again, ask me how I know!!

Don't forget to seal up the back of the auto transmission if you have not drained it ahead of time. Freezer bag and several wraps of strong tape around the tail shaft works.

Do get a proper hoist with a long enough reach. One time I borrowed a smaller hoist and I ended up pulling the front bumper to it close enough to the engine. Between the bumper and how far back our engines sit there is a long reach. (I have a 73 which probably makes it a bit worse).

Can be done with a C6 trans. Pulled engine and trans as a unit out of my Mach. make sure to drain the trans. found out the hard way:whistling:

+1 on a long reach hoist.

Jim

At the factory they did install the dressed out engine and transmission together. They had special lift to attach to the engine lift brackets that are usually missing from our cars. You don't have that special lift that allowed one man to drop engine and trans in the car in about 5 seconds. I prefer to put the engine in and then the transmission from under the car. If you are working by yourself there is so much stuff to bump into, scratch, bend on the way in or out is why I just do the engine then the trans. A leveler is a must. An A frame always seems to work better for me than the rolling engine lifts. I use a Yale chain fall on the A frame. I also have a 2 ton engine lift.

Watching some of the old video of the assembly lines is embarrassing to see how quick they put one in.

Do get a proper hoist with a long enough reach. One time I borrowed a smaller hoist and I ended up pulling the front bumper to it close enough to the engine. Between the bumper and how far back our engines sit there is a long reach. (I have a 73 which probably makes it a bit worse).

Click to expand...

That was exactly my problem last time. Had to strip it right down to get close enough, What a pain in the ass!

Don't forget to seal up the back of the auto transmission if you have not drained it ahead of time. Freezer bag and several wraps of strong tape around the tail shaft works.

Click to expand...

Good point. You can buy a transmission tailstock plug set, which is a bit of a waste as you'll likely only need one of them, but tape it in with electrical tape so it stays put.

I have a very tall garage with exposed rafters. That sounds like an easier way to pull it would you all agree?

If so do I need to tie a few rafters together with maybe a 2x6 or something for added strength? They are 2x4 framed trusses.

What electric hoist?

Turtle5353 I cant open your pic but it may be because I am at work.

Thanks!

Wade

I'm not sure that would be a good plan. 2x4 metal plate connected wood trusses are not designed to carry that type of load. They will snap like toothpicks. You would have to add a lot of bracing including additional vertical bracing, even then I don't think any engineer in there right mind would say that is ok.

I have a very tall garage with exposed rafters. That sounds like an easier way to pull it would you all agree?

If so do I need to tie a few rafters together with maybe a 2x6 or something for added strength? They are 2x4 framed trusses.

What electric hoist?

Turtle5353 I cant open your pic but it may be because I am at work.

Thanks!

Wade

Click to expand...

When I lifted mine with the rafters, I took 2 4x4's that were 10ft long and spanned over several roof trusses to distribute the load. I also made sure to put the 4x4's near one of the vertical gussets in the truss. I installed and removed my motor myself numerous times. But the downside to this approach is that you have to push the car back as you bring the motor and trans up. The motor and trans stay stationary.

When I build my new garage addition, I am going to be running a 30' I beam down the center of the garage over my 2 post lift. It will be attached to the roof trusses and have a trolley and my hoist attached to it. That will make it even easier on me in the future.

As far as the hoist I have... here is a link to it. http://chainhoist.com/Electric-Chain-Hoists/1-2-ton-cm-lodestar-8-fpm-115v-single-phase.html

Most people wont have one of these, but a block and tackle set up would work just fine also. I work on overhead cranes for a living so I have acquired some of these things over the years.::thumb:: I already have the I beam and trolley also. Plan on building a loft in the back of the garage and running the I beam and hoist over into the loft to make putting heavier items up there a lot easier.

I'm not sure that would be a good plan. 2x4 metal plate connected wood trusses are not designed to carry that type of load. They will snap like toothpicks. You would have to add a lot of bracing including additional vertical bracing, even then I don't think any engineer in there right mind would say that is ok.

Click to expand...

I agree completely. Trusses are designed to support a considerable load over a wide area and not for point loading. The 2x4 ceiling joists and connections to the bracing are designed to support the weight of sheetrock, which is a lot of weight, but once again over a large area. Something like a single 2x6 would not distribute the load evenly over enough joists to make it safe.

I have a very tall garage with exposed rafters. That sounds like an easier way to pull it would you all agree?

If so do I need to tie a few rafters together with maybe a 2x6 or something for added strength? They are 2x4 framed trusses.

What electric hoist?

Turtle5353 I cant open your pic but it may be because I am at work.

Thanks!

Wade

Click to expand...

When I lifted mine with the rafters, I took 2 4x4's that were 10ft long and spanned over several roof trusses to distribute the load. I also made sure to put the 4x4's near one of the vertical gussets in the truss. I installed and removed my motor myself numerous times. But the downside to this approach is that you have to push the car back as you bring the motor and trans up. The motor and trans stay stationary.

When I build my new garage addition, I am going to be running a 30' I beam down the center of the garage over my 2 post lift. It will be attached to the roof trusses and have a trolley and my hoist attached to it. That will make it even easier on me in the future.

As far as the hoist I have... here is a link to it. http://chainhoist.com/Electric-Chain-Hoists/1-2-ton-cm-lodestar-8-fpm-115v-single-phase.html

Most people won't have one of these, but a block and tackle set up would work just fine also. I work on overhead cranes for a living so I have acquired some of these things over the years.::thumb:: I already have the I beam and trolley also. Plan on building a loft in the back of the garage and running the I beam and hoist over into the loft to make putting heavier items up there a lot easier.

Click to expand...

How did you attach the 4x4 posts to the rafters? I looked up the weight of a 351 Cleveland with everything installed including oil. It was 550 LBS. The 4 speed is another 100 LBS. I wouldn't think 650 lbs spread out across multiple rafters would be very taxing on structural stability but I'm not that kind of engineer.

Do you have any pics showing your overhead setup?

Thanks

Wade

I have a very tall garage with exposed rafters. That sounds like an easier way to pull it would you all agree?

If so do I need to tie a few rafters together with maybe a 2x6 or something for added strength? They are 2x4 framed trusses.

What electric hoist?

Turtle5353 I cant open your pic but it may be because I am at work.

Thanks!

Wade

Click to expand...

When I lifted mine with the rafters, I took 2 4x4's that were 10ft long and spanned over several roof trusses to distribute the load. I also made sure to put the 4x4's near one of the vertical gussets in the truss. I installed and removed my motor myself numerous times. But the downside to this approach is that you have to push the car back as you bring the motor and trans up. The motor and trans stay stationary.

When I build my new garage addition, I am going to be running a 30' I beam down the center of the garage over my 2 post lift. It will be attached to the roof trusses and have a trolley and my hoist attached to it. That will make it even easier on me in the future.

As far as the hoist I have... here is a link to it. http://chainhoist.com/Electric-Chain-Hoists/1-2-ton-cm-lodestar-8-fpm-115v-single-phase.html

Most people won't have one of these, but a block and tackle set up would work just fine also. I work on overhead cranes for a living so I have acquired some of these things over the years.::thumb:: I already have the I beam and trolley also. Plan on building a loft in the back of the garage and running the I beam and hoist over into the loft to make putting heavier items up there a lot easier.

Click to expand...

How did you attach the 4x4 posts to the rafters? I looked up the weight of a 351 Cleveland with everything installed including oil. It was 550 LBS. The 4 speed is another 100 LBS. I wouldn't think 650 lbs spread out across multiple rafters would be very taxing on structural stability but I'm not that kind of engineer.

Do you have any pics showing your overhead setup?

Thanks

Wade

Click to expand...

I just layed them inside the rafters, didn't attach them at all. Put a strap around them and hung the hoist from that. I don't have any pics now but if I get a chance to get out to the garage later I can try.

I'm not sure that would be a good plan. 2x4 metal plate connected wood trusses are not designed to carry that type of load. They will snap like toothpicks. You would have to add a lot of bracing including additional vertical bracing, even then I don't think any engineer in there right mind would say that is ok.

Click to expand...

I agree completely. Trusses are designed to support a considerable load over a wide area and not for point loading. The 2x4 ceiling joists and connections to the bracing are designed to support the weight of sheetrock, which is a lot of weight, but once again over a large area. Something like a single 2x6 would not distribute the load evenly over enough joists to make it safe.

Click to expand...

That's why I lay two 4x4 across 6 or 7 of the roof joists.

Depending on the design of your trusses I would still caution against this. I worked for the WTCA (Wood Truss Counsel of America) for several years back in the 90's. A group of engineers that worked to promote the industry as well as safe practices. I have seen some nasty things happen to over stressed trusses. Also another thing to consider. Along the bottom span of the trusses. Is it a sold 2x4 all the way from end to end or is it two pieces of 2x4 with metal plates connecting the two? If there is a butt joint like this in the span then you do not want to be hanging the weight of an engine from it. It will buckle at that joint very easily. I'm not trying to sounds rude here, I just know very well how these are designed and don't want to see someone cause structural damage to their property or worse yet be injured.