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New project for this winter. 71 Mach 1


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Hey guys just wanted to start a thread on the new project for this winter. Had a guy drop off his 71 Mach 1 for some work. It's a very nice and original car that he got from his father when he passed. The car only has 46,000 miles on it and is very solid. Looks like the trunk took in some water over the years and it needs some work. Gonna be putting trunk pan in, drop offs, tail light panel, rear valance, some rear quarter panel work, and a new hood. I will be pretty much going over the whole car and getting it ready for him to cruise this summer. I will keep you guys updated as I go. He ordered the marti for it. And can't wait to see if we can find the build sheet in the car. This thing has never been apart so it should be in there. Well here's a couple of pics from tonight. Lots more to come in the next few months.

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Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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Sharp car.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Nice car! Take good care of it and the owner. Original owner cas are rare.

movie stars with addictions go to the Betty Ford clinic,

I take my addiction to the Henry Ford clinic.lollerz

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Looks like a nice project and a great starting point.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP hardware - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe - Duraspark - MSD digital 6al box - MSD TFI coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - lakewood traction bars.                                            

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Yeah guys its a pretty cool car. Very original. 1 owner. He even has the cancelled check from when his dad bought it new. Its a plain jane Mach with no stripes. but it does have the 351 2-v. 3 speed manual. A/C that works.

 

I think the first thing I'm going to get started on is stripping the back end to get started on the trunk pan and tail light panel. It has 2 good size holes in the bottom of the quarter panel. I was thinking of replacing the whole quarter panel, but the rest of it is in such good shape I would hate to replace the whole thing. I may just cut out the bad lower section and butt weld it back in. I will have access to the back side of the weld also, so when I'm done the repair should be invisible. We will see what it looks like once I start tearing into it for body work and paint. Hope to have it painted and done for spring.

 

One question I do have right off the bat. This car has the lower bright moldings. How are those attached? Clips? studs? acorn nuts? I haven't looked in my ford books yet just curious.

Thanks for the replies guys and im sure I will have lots of questions along the way! Stay tuned.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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Very nice car! And I really like the correct no-stripe look for that car.

 

Can't remember how the lower body non side stripe Decor Group trim you mention is attached.

 

Ray

1971 Boss 351  

1972 Q code 4 speed convertible 

1971 Mustang Sportsroof  351-2V FMX 

1971 Hardtop (parts car)

1973 Mach 1 (parts car)

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Kevin, the moldings are attached with the plastic snap on clips and the metal clip / studs with nuts. Section over the front valance has tabs between the fender and valance

It depends on the area

If Ford had access they used a nut

fenders ... nut

door has studs except on the end - one exposed nut

quarter panel nuts reached inside of the door jamb vent and inside of the trunk

11/32 nd size nuts

Don

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Kevin, the moldings are attached with the plastic snap on clips and the metal clip / studs with nuts. Section over the front valance has tabs between the fender and valance

It depends on the area

If Ford had access they used a nut

fenders ... nut

door has studs except on the end - one exposed nut

quarter panel nuts reached inside of the door jamb vent and inside of the trunk

11/32 nd size nuts

Don

 

Great thanks Don!! Are the clips just removed with a flat tool like you use on the windshield trim?? I really don't want to damage these, the owner really wants to reuse them and keep it looking just like it is. I will be PMing you later today for some parts we are going to need to order.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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Kevin, the moldings are attached with the plastic snap on clips and the metal clip / studs with nuts. Section over the front valance has tabs between the fender and valance

It depends on the area

If Ford had access they used a nut

fenders ... nut

door has studs except on the end - one exposed nut

quarter panel nuts reached inside of the door jamb vent and inside of the trunk

11/32 nd size nuts

Don

 

Great thanks Don!! Are the clips just removed with a flat tool like you use on the windshield trim?? I really don't want to damage these, the owner really wants to reuse them and keep it looking just like it is. I will be PMing you later today for some parts we are going to need to order.

 

Once any nuts are off

The clips are plastic - windshield tool is too thick

I use two thin flat blade screw drivers, one on each side of the clip. I start on from the bottom

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Be very careful with the decor group trim. They do not repo it anymore, use to, and 71-72 is different for the front piece. 73 is lower to align better with the larger bumper. They are difficult to find I have two cars with it.

It is a nice looking car. I agree if you can fix the holes in the quarter panels do so the repo ones never fit like originals and almost impossible to hide the change. If you butt weld like you say it will never bee seen. So many just throw it up there and overlap the panel and then after a while it shows through the paint.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Be very careful with the decor group trim. They do not repo it anymore, use to, and 71-72 is different for the front piece.

 

Sound advice. ::thumb::

 

I remember the studs - I had to buzz them off my doors, since I was missing all the trim from the fenders on both sides. I wound up giving what was left of them to one of the guys on the forums rather than just toss 'em out. I was planning on going with hockey stripes... but then after seeing so many wavy stripes on other cars, I decided against it. Now, I kinda almost wish I had the trim back. :whistling: rofl

 

Oh well. :cool:

 

Nice car, Kevin. Looks like a fun project. Nice shop, as well. ::thumb::

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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Kevin front fender has plastic clip in the center stud / nut on each each end

 

 

 

 

 

Don, do you sell the clips and studs for these? I got the ones on the rear quarter panels off but the springs that hold them in the track are broke and a couple of the studs broke.

 

David, Im hoping to be able to save all the trim. The owner really wants to reuse it. As far as the butt welds go, that usually how I do all my patch panels. I like it to be invisible repairs.

 

Eric, Thanks, but as you know a shop is never big enough. This garage was already here when we bought the house. I have plans on putting a 24x56 addition on to it with 16' ceilings and a 2 post lift and possibly a small spray both in the back. That's why I do all my side work....to save up for my garage addition! It sure would make life a lot easier!!

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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Just thought I would post a couple pics of what I got done yesterday. Got the back of the car all tore apart. Dropped the gas tank. Cut out the tail light panel and trunk pan and drop offs. Still have some final cutting to do up front but ran outta time. The inside of the frame rails were virtually rust free. Another neat thing was that when I took off the trunk lid, there was no paint or primer under the hinges. the metal was bare and looked brand new. Crazy how 45 year old metal can not have a spot of rust on it. This car has never been in an accident or repainted. Its really cool seeing the overspray from the factory on different parts. They didn't do the greatest job of masking between the doors and rockers transition to black and yellow. Faint overspray on a lot of stuff. This car is like a time capsule. Cant wait til I get to move forward on the car and tear the interior out and look for the build sheet. I will keep this thread updated so you guys can see the progress.

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Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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Got some more of the car tore apart this weekend. All the trim off, fenders, hood, grille, bumper, ect. Found a little more rust than we had hoped. I will need to do a little bit of patching on the fender aprons. Also need to patch the cowl on passenger side. Luckily the hat is still in good shape and only the outer part of the cowl needs work. Gonna try to push it outside today or tomorrow and pressure wash it all off again now that the fenders are off and all the trim is off. Lots of old dirt under there. Should be fun pressure washing it. We got around 8 inches of snow last night and high in the Mid 20's. Suppose to warm up some tomorrow then drop down to 11 for a high Thursday and a low of -7. Yeah winters here! ::thumb::

Heres a few pics. Hope to get the trunk pan finished up this week. So far I am 16 man hours into the job.

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Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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I was able to get the driveway plowed last night and get the mustang pulled out and gave it another bath. I pressure washed all the heavy stuff off of it. Lots of dirt and debris and around windows, cowl, under fenders ect. Then hand washed with dawn dish soap and hot water. Then pressure washed again. I was froze by the time I was done and soaked and a little icy!! But atleast I got it all done. Pulled it back in the garage to dry. Start installing the trunk pan tonight.

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Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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Well I was able to get the trunk pan fitted and welded in place last night after work. Everything went off without a hitch. I still need to grind all the welds down, but it was getting late and I didn't feel like doing it last night. Over 100 spot welds holding that thing in. Also had to transfer the jack mount, and gas tank strap mount, and gas tank location tabs to the bottom side of the pan. Next up is the driver quarter panel and taillight panel. Just a little tip I found helpful when you have to punch 100+ holes for spot welds. The outside perimeter ones are easy with the flange/punch tool, but the inner ones can be a pain in the butt. It takes forever if you use a center punch to mark the holes, then drill out with a standard drill bit. A really easy quick way to do it is to use a self-tapping screw in your screw gun with a magnetic bit holder. No need to center punch the holes. The self tapper doesn't slide around like a drill bit and eats right through sheetmetal way faster than a drill bit. If the self tapper holes arent big enough for your liking you can go back through with a 1/4" drill bit and open up the holes. Since the hole is already there the drill bit opens the hole easily. Then just dress the holes to get the burrs off with a grinder. Easy peasy. Saves a ton of time. Heres some more pics.

 

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Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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Looking good. Thanks for posting up the progress. Looks like the same batch of work I need to do to my 72....trunk floor, drops, a little rear quarter work, and some driver's side apron work.

 

What did you coat the frame rails with before the floor was welded in place? Was the adjacent surface to the frame rail also coated?

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You are moving on with the job really fast. Wow that cowl had got rusty. When you pull the windshield hope the upper part of the cowl doesn't look the same. They hold trash in that pocket under the bottom of the windshield and rust quickly.

One the spot welds. One thing I found that helps me is to use an automatic center punch to hit the centers of the welds snap them a couple times. It is difficult to get some with a hammer and the automatic center punch is quick and compact.

When I was working on my garage and putting up the conduit I also found that the self tappers did drill the red iron frame of the building faster than a drill bit.

There is an old Tool & Die trick to help make the drills cut faster. You thin the web in the center of the drill bit down. You need a good square corner on your grinding wheel to do it. Maybe look up on web to get some pictures.

You can keep that cold up there but they say it will head south soon.

Great work you are doing.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Looking good. Thanks for posting up the progress. Looks like the same batch of work I need to do to my 72....trunk floor, drops, a little rear quarter work, and some driver's side apron work.

 

What did you coat the frame rails with before the floor was welded in place? Was the adjacent surface to the frame rail also coated?

 

I sprayed weld through primer on and in the rails. Then inside the rails I top coated it with some kind of rust encapsulator/preventor my buddy gets from work. They use it on boilers. So I figured it should work for the frame. The inside of the frame looked brand new still, no rust at all.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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You are moving on with the job really fast. Wow that cowl had got rusty. When you pull the windshield hope the upper part of the cowl doesn't look the same. They hold trash in that pocket under the bottom of the windshield and rust quickly.

One the spot welds. One thing I found that helps me is to use an automatic center punch to hit the centers of the welds snap them a couple times. It is difficult to get some with a hammer and the automatic center punch is quick and compact.

When I was working on my garage and putting up the conduit I also found that the self tappers did drill the red iron frame of the building faster than a drill bit.

There is an old Tool & Die trick to help make the drills cut faster. You thin the web in the center of the drill bit down. You need a good square corner on your grinding wheel to do it. Maybe look up on web to get some pictures.

You can keep that cold up there but they say it will head south soon.

Great work you are doing.

 

Thanks David. We are not pulling the windshield. The owner didn't want to get into all that. The rest of the cowl looks really solid.

I also use the auto punch when im drilling out old spot welds.

And cold is HERE!! Only a high of 10 tomorrow.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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