Stock Stroke 351C w/6" rod

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wrobinson

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My 13 year old wants to build a 1971-73 Mach 1 Mustang for his first car. We have found a Grabber Blue with white interior base model 1971 Mach 1 to start on.
Does anyone know of a off the shelf 6" connecting rod with 2.311 rod journal and .927 small end? I am thinking I want to build a 6" rod stock stroke 351C. I know guys are using the 2.10 rod journal 927 small end SBC rods with the stroker packages.

 
I don't know of one offhand. Unless you are going for modest high RPM increase (at the expense of low speed torque and idle quality), I would not suggest the long rod with the stock stroke. It has a lot to do with piston speeds near TDC and BDC which are affected by rod/stroke ratios. Search on "rod ratio torque". Chuck

 
In Australia the common source is our 302c rods which a 6 inch.

Did have a look at this some time ago and the downside is you need a custom piston yet the word is no appreciable increase in power to be worth the cost.

 
Did one many years back and the costs were stupid, but the customer didn't want to listen. Grind crank pin down to 2.1, (may as well just offset grind for a 3.7 stroke) machine down side of big end on rods, chamfer or buy chamfered bearings and as Chuck said has an adverse affect on 4V heads. As was said the 302 Cleveland connecting rod is 6.025 high and you could machine out the little end out .015 thou to .927 if you really wanted too. This is an old trick for the 351 2V engines running 302 Cleveland rods, but the price of Pistons is crazy. Actually got a set from years ago sitting down the back that S'd a rod when a casting fault from the SSR of the head (at least 150+ runs on those heads) fell out and filled the cylinder full of water. I thought something went about half track but back in the pits it was running ok then started getting real hot, obviously no water in the system. Pulled it down and piece nearly the length of the SSR and nearly 1/8 inch wide went missing, lol. For the stuffing around and costs, be cheaper buying a stroker kit these days.

 
In Australia the common source is our 302c rods which a 6 inch.

Did have a look at this some time ago and the downside is you need a custom piston yet the word is no appreciable increase in power to be worth the cost.
Hux,

I guess this practice is more common than most lead on too. Here are a list of pistons made for this application:

Mahle # FCL450030F03

ROSS # 80566

PROBE # 14114

SRP # 206045, 345669, 345670

AUTOTEC# 1000515

 
Did one many years back and the costs were stupid, but the customer didn't want to listen. Grind crank pin down to 2.1, (may as well just offset grind for a 3.7 stroke) machine down side of big end on rods, chamfer or buy chamfered bearings and as Chuck said has an adverse affect on 4V heads. As was said the 302 Cleveland connecting rod is 6.025 high and you could machine out the little end out .015 thou to .927 if you really wanted too. This is an old trick for the 351 2V engines running 302 Cleveland rods, but the price of Pistons is crazy. Actually got a set from years ago sitting down the back that S'd a rod when a casting fault from the SSR of the head (at least 150+ runs on those heads) fell out and filled the cylinder full of water. I thought something went about half track but back in the pits it was running ok then started getting real hot, obviously no water in the system. Pulled it down and piece nearly the length of the SSR and nearly 1/8 inch wide went missing, lol. For the stuffing around and costs, be cheaper buying a stroker kit these days.

[/q

I appreciate the information on the 6" rod builds. I totally agree the stroker kits are very reasonable now days. Sometimes I like being different. I will know which direction the build is going once the engine is torn down and assessed. The Aussie 302 rod I did not know about, thanks.
 
Did one many years back and the costs were stupid, but the customer didn't want to listen. Grind crank pin down to 2.1, (may as well just offset grind for a 3.7 stroke) machine down side of big end on rods, chamfer or buy chamfered bearings and as Chuck said has an adverse affect on 4V heads. As was said the 302 Cleveland connecting rod is 6.025 high and you could machine out the little end out .015 thou to .927 if you really wanted too. This is an old trick for the 351 2V engines running 302 Cleveland rods, but the price of Pistons is crazy. Actually got a set from years ago sitting down the back that S'd a rod when a casting fault from the SSR of the head (at least 150+ runs on those heads) fell out and filled the cylinder full of water. I thought something went about half track but back in the pits it was running ok then started getting real hot, obviously no water in the system. Pulled it down and piece nearly the length of the SSR and nearly 1/8 inch wide went missing, lol. For the stuffing around and costs, be cheaper buying a stroker kit these days.

[/q

I appreciate the information on the 6" rod builds. I totally agree the stroker kits are very reasonable now days. Sometimes I like being different. I will know which direction the build is going once the engine is torn down and assessed. The Aussie 302 rod I did not know about, thanks.
Thanks for posting the piston numbers, good information. For most people, running a Cleveland makes us different enough. Ask any Chevy guy. Chuck
 
Did one many years back and the costs were stupid, but the customer didn't want to listen. Grind crank pin down to 2.1, (may as well just offset grind for a 3.7 stroke) machine down side of big end on rods, chamfer or buy chamfered bearings and as Chuck said has an adverse affect on 4V heads. As was said the 302 Cleveland connecting rod is 6.025 high and you could machine out the little end out .015 thou to .927 if you really wanted too. This is an old trick for the 351 2V engines running 302 Cleveland rods, but the price of Pistons is crazy. Actually got a set from years ago sitting down the back that S'd a rod when a casting fault from the SSR of the head (at least 150+ runs on those heads) fell out and filled the cylinder full of water. I thought something went about half track but back in the pits it was running ok then started getting real hot, obviously no water in the system. Pulled it down and piece nearly the length of the SSR and nearly 1/8 inch wide went missing, lol. For the stuffing around and costs, be cheaper buying a stroker kit these days.

[/q

I appreciate the information on the 6" rod builds. I totally agree the stroker kits are very reasonable now days. Sometimes I like being different. I will know which direction the build is going once the engine is torn down and assessed. The Aussie 302 rod I did not know about, thanks.
Thanks for posting the piston numbers, good information. For most people, running a Cleveland makes us different enough. Ask any Chevy guy. Chuck
My family is very diverse in the fact that we do not discriminate between brands: my wife's car is a 1973 Laguna Chevelle, my oldest son's car is a 1978 W72 Trans Am, my project is a 1966 Plymouth Satellite, and now the newest project is the 1973 Mach 1 Mustang for my middle son. This is my first rodeo with a Ford so I will probably ask some otherwise weird or obtuse questions searching for critical facts and information. I love cars in general but I lean toward Mopar which is a cult in its own right.
 
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