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Beginnings 72 Coupe Resto


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That's all looking pretty sharp! Did you have to make modifications for the drivers seat to get that handbrake in?

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That's all looking pretty sharp! Did you have to make modifications for the drivers seat to get that handbrake in?

 

Thanks Vinnie, Yes I had to cut, bend and weld the handle base to make it lean towards the tunnel otherwise it would have rubbed on the seat. I also reinforced underneath the seat platform to strengthen the mounting. It doesn't get in the way of the seat tracks either.

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Great work Mick. You should be very pleased with your progress. I mounted my hand brake lever bracket level with the front of the seat platform. That would explain why your cable is a little long.

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Great work Mick. You should be very pleased with your progress. I mounted my hand brake lever bracket level with the front of the seat platform. That would explain why your cable is a little long.

 

Thanks Len, I used an AU 3 series handbrake lever which was a better fit. Had a new handbrake cable made up using bits of EL & AU. You are correct that my cable was a bit long so I had it shortened 30 mm to give more adjustment.

 

Now I have all brakes working, bought new braided hoses and made new pipes, bled the brakes and have a great pedal but had to tighten up the pipes a bit to seat in the new flares as they leaked under pressure.

Bought a vacuum bleeder which made bleeding a breeze just had to teflon tape the bleeders and cable tie the hoses but well worth it.

 

Installed the steering column and mounted everything up but found the shaft between the steering column and rack is too long so will have to get another one made up. This is probably due to the way I've done the firewall and pedal box.

 

Also have plenty of room between legs and steering wheel even with the standard one and seeing as I have bought a 13 inch Grant steering wheel will be more than enough.

 

Only problem I can see with engineering is the brake pedal seems a little bit high, in other words when my size 11 foot is on the floor my toes barely touch the pedal, obviously with underlay and carpet this will be better so I hope it will be acceptable upon inspection.

 

Oh and as you will see in the pics I ended up making a column to cowl bracket as the OEM one just wouldn't fit despite cutting it and trying to change it.

 

Cheers Mick

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Looks like a sprint seat, was it a sprint car to start?

 

Hi Ray, no just a standard coupe, the seats came with the vehicle when I bought it. They don't have the weave type inserts so assume have been recovered at some stage. I'm tossing up to dye them black or put in some modern black leather seats.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Progress and setbacks seem to be the norm for me. That's what I get for buying an unfinished RHD conversion project, always a glutton for punishment.

Steering rack to column shaft ended up being too long due to my positioning of the firewall and column and getting a shorter one made is taking forever.

Good thing is my steering wheel height will be better than most RHD conversions but will have to get a new shaft and have had to lengthen the brake pedal.

Below is some pics of latest work including getting the headlamp housings and bonnet lock supports blasted/painted/installed with new hardware

Also ran into a problem when I went to install the Old Air evaporator unit. The PO had welded in the original A/C firewall hole a bit high so the unit hit the cowl. Pity I discovered this after I painted the engine bay. Had to cut out the hole section and weld in a new plate with a round hold and repaint the area.

Also had to cut and shut the evaporator mounting bracket as it was designed for original LHD firewall.

Pretty happy with the A/C unit otherwise and although it will hang a bit low I may actually have a full size glove box.

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  • 2 months later...

Been a while since my last post but just been busy doing bodywork repairs on the quarters and roof area

After grinding out a heap of body filler from the rear window panel and not having much luck straightening it out I ended up welding in a new section which has been a mission in itself especially getting rid of the oil canning. Bought a shrinking disc and although it took a while it worked wonders

Anyway should have the body shell in primer and blocked next couple of weeks then onto the bolt on panels

Got the cleveland block at the machinists so should get a break from the bodywork soon

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  • 3 months later...

Been a while since I updated my build thread as I've been busy doing the tedious job of panel work but managed to break the monotony occasionally with other jobs in between.

My feeble attempt at repairing the rear window panel hasn't turned out so well as once I got around to installing the trunk lid and although I expected a small discrepancy in the gaps it was unacceptable. Seems like the previous damage had pushed the edge to the front and downwards plus the welding would have shrunk it back some. A disappointing set back as I was hoping I would be ready for paint within a month. I have Don from OMS organizing a donor panel but will be a few months before I see it via sea freight.

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The black seats that came with the vehicle were too far gone but the sprint seats still good so changed them to black with SEM vinyl paint. Came out pretty good despite the foggy photo. Did the dash pad and a few trim pieces as well.

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Got lucky with the fenders, doors and trunk lid having very little rust or damage

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More work done on the engine bay and inside for the RHD conversion getting ready for wiring harness

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Getting started on the engine with the rotating assembly fitted.

Engine build plan so far is 406C stroker using Scat 9000 series cast crank, Scat I beam rods and SRP 16cc dished pistons

Heads are getting done by Pavtek and are Aussie 2V with CNC porting capable of over 500HP in stroker

Cam is ordered and is a custom grind Hydraulic Roller by Jones Cams specs are 232/240 @ .050 duration, .602/.611 lift and 110 LSA

Induction will be RPM Air Gap and Holley SA 770 cfm

Ignition looking at ICE Ignition system so far

For headers have some stainless 4 into 1 suited for a local Falcon so reckon I will have some fun fitting to a RHD Mustang but lucky I have a big hammer!

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  • 1 month later...

Still waiting for my camshaft and lifters, taking forever with the lifters on back order for more than 2 months even though I was told they'll be in at the end of the week back in March! He finally sent them a couple of weeks ago and having taken a few weeks holiday in anticipation of getting the rest of the engine back together they ended up getting held in Customs in which the pirates demanded a ransom of $300 to release the goods! Talk about robbery.

 

Anyway with winter coming on it was time to start on the wiring project.

Have most of the wiring in place and just need to do some testing with a fire extinguisher nearby before I wrap it up.

Have made some upgrades including a Derale PWM fan controller, headlamps running off battery power via relays, modern fuse box/connectors etc

 

Getting ready to put the dash together and decided to add center gauges but not OEM

I went with some VDO gauges and reading how other members had done theirs I went and attacked the new center bezel with the Dremel.

15 minutes later I had them mounted in and although not perfect I'm pretty happy with the result. Gauge set with senders was $180 so not expensive.

 

Also have put in a new 1/2 inch fuel line with 1/4 inch return to go with the Rob Mac fuel pump and sender unit

 

Pictures below

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  • 1 month later...

Starting to make some progress on the engine as a distraction to all the other jobs

Had some difficulty with getting correct length rocker studs and on my third attempt ended up with 2.100 studs plus a .120 washer

Seems the heads had longer stem valves for the taller valve springs and combined with the relatively tall Scorpion rockers I needed an odd combination to get correct geometry

To add to my problems the Comp Cams guide plate set was one short so a 3 week wait for a replacement

Pics below and it looks good with the valve covers but a pity the RTS oil pan is a poor fit so I've ordered a Kevco oil pan as recommended on this forum

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  • 1 month later...

With the winter weather here preventing me from doing panel work I have been busy rebuilding the engine and C4 transmission.

Upgraded the C4 with better clutches, billet servo, deep pan and a hi-stall convertor. Would not have tried to do it myself without the excellent Badshoe Productions videos.

Made a frame to mount the engine/trans which makes it easier to move around. Hopefully I will be installing it all soon and will attempt to install it with trans and headers attached.

Still need to sort out the alternator mounting as standard brackets won't work with the Summit 100 amp unit.

Looking forward to the day it is all running but still a long way to go.

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dam, you do nice work............

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

 

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;

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wow and more wow. I take my hat off for the work you do! I was wondering how replacing the back window panel would pan out, any update on that? and also; did you do anything to the panel underneath the back panel?

 

what are the areas you cannot get to? like the inside of the rockers for example. I’d always be scared that rust will come up from an area that was overlooked or unreachable.

 

one day I really want to do all this with my coupe...

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wow and more wow. I take my hat off for the work you do! I was wondering how replacing the back window panel would pan out, any update on that? and also; did you do anything to the panel underneath the back panel?

 

what are the areas you cannot get to? like the inside of the rockers for example. I’d always be scared that rust will come up from an area that was overlooked or unreachable.

 

one day I really want to do all this with my coupe...

 

Thanks for the feedback

Still waiting on the window panel which is still in Sydney, my window panel and the panel below it are not rusted, just have a damaged panel and need to get the trunk gaps correct.

I was pretty lucky withe the rockers, doors and fenders being 99% rust free 

Nearly all panel work done except window panel and need to mount the fenders then check the aftermarket hood for alignment but will wait until engine installed

So far looks like the headers will clear the steering rack but had to modify the kickdown lever plus the dipstick tube

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  • 2 weeks later...

Decided this weekend it was time to get the engine and transmission installed so I can pass another milestone

Tried to install it with trans and headers attached but ended up having to remove the right side header

Luckily was able to refit the header getting it in from underneath

Next problem was lining up the engine mounts as I used an aftermarket locally made mount and it looked like the solenoid on the mini starter was hitting the steering rack so wasn't looking forward to removing the header again just to remove the starter

Once I adjusted the engine mounts and got the bolts in it was starting to line up with just enough clearance between the steering rack to starter plus the oil pan is pretty close

Lastly had to lever the trans mount into place then slip the bolts in and looks all good for now

Put the Holley 770 carby on with a 1 inch spacer but seriously doubt it will clear the hood so might have to go without the spacer, oh well can't have it all my way

Anyway happy with the progress with some plumbing/wiring jobs ahead before I start the engine then back onto the panel work

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Nice. Looks great.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Well it's my birthday today so decided it was time to start it up for the first time after many months

Surprisingly it fired up straight away although I had to prime the carby up properly by filling the fuel bowl

After getting fuel up I ran it until full temperature then shut it down to top up both transmission and power steering fluids

All up the C4 trans took about 3 1/2 gallons of fluid and the coolant a whopping 4 1/2 gallons or 17 liters due to a bloody big radiator

I don't have an exhaust system yet but to quieten it down some I whacked the Summit turbo mufflers straight on to the headers although it was still very loud

Anyway happy with how it went and having a birthday beer or two

Also a video below but not sure how it will work

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Very nice. Sounds great. Happy birthday.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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