Jump to content

New Member from FL


ITMike5.0
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Talk about coast to coast. CA to FL in its lifetime.

BKDunha

72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)

67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Talk about coast to coast. CA to FL in its lifetime.

 

Yes and I think it was in Michigan most of it's life until the previous owner drove up there recently to purchase it. It had been sitting in a garage with a dirt floor since 1994. Being a Michigan car it does have some rust. I will more than likely have someone do a dustless blasting job on the entire exterior and possibly the engine bay and underside. Then I'll see what I'm dealing with and get a body shop involved.

Stang Life!

 

Stangs.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would be cautious on blasting except the door jams, cowl, trunk and areas that are not in the body that show. A person can warp the panels and cause you lots of pain later. You can pretty much see what is bad although the car has been painted and that can hide some sins also. I myself prefer to use stripper and then only blast the areas with rust to be sure no warping.

I had one guy tell me he could blast and not warp so gave him a flat piece of metal painted and told him to remove the paint the flat panel curled up.

Also know of a 1964 1/2 fastback, very rare, that got screwed up bad at the blaster. I have talked with one painter that had issues with a car that was soda blasted. They did not wash enough and they had to strip and start all over.

Be cautious when taking the interior out. I do not know if you know about the Build Sheet. That tells everything on the car as it came down the assembly line. They tossed them inside the car sometimes under the back seat, under the carpet or sound deadening and even tucked into the seat reinforcement. It is a great document to have. There is also the Buck tag that should be behind the L.H. head light bucket attached to the radiator support with a phillips screw. It tells all the options that changed any sheet metal like air cond. mirrors anything that has to have different holes for attachment.

I know several have cautioned you do not toss anything and take lots of pictures as you go. A restore can take some time. Look for paint markings, inspector stamps, chalk or grease pencil marks and take photos.

The car right now looks pretty good for a rebuild. The seat covers you might have to get the material and have them sewn. I do not know if they repo with such low numbers. You were one of 198 fastback and Mach 1 with that interior and color combo.

I attached a picture of a perfect build sheet most are stained, missing half or it or like my 73 California vert only about 2" of a corner left.

Perfect_Build_Sheet.thumb.jpg.0efdd1bfac20f134fc3d0b461bf03b20.jpg

  • Like 1

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tha

I would be cautious on blasting except the door jams, cowl, trunk and areas that are not in the body that show. A person can warp the panels and cause you lots of pain later. You can pretty much see what is bad although the car has been painted and that can hide some sins also. I myself prefer to use stripper and then only blast the areas with rust to be sure no warping.

I had one guy tell me he could blast and not warp so gave him a flat piece of metal painted and told him to remove the paint the flat panel curled up.

Also know of a 1964 1/2 fastback, very rare, that got screwed up bad at the blaster. I have talked with one painter that had issues with a car that was soda blasted. They did not wash enough and they had to strip and start all over.

Be cautious when taking the interior out. I do not know if you know about the Build Sheet. That tells everything on the car as it came down the assembly line. They tossed them inside the car sometimes under the back seat, under the carpet or sound deadening and even tucked into the seat reinforcement. It is a great document to have. There is also the Buck tag that should be behind the L.H. head light bucket attached to the radiator support with a phillips screw. It tells all the options that changed any sheet metal like air cond. mirrors anything that has to have different holes for attachment.

I know several have cautioned you do not toss anything and take lots of pictures as you go. A restore can take some time. Look for paint markings, inspector stamps, chalk or grease pencil marks and take photos.

The car right now looks pretty good for a rebuild. The seat covers you might have to get the material and have them sewn. I do not know if they repo with such low numbers. You were one of 198 fastback and Mach 1 with that interior and color combo.

I attached a picture of a perfect build sheet most are stained, missing half or it or like my 73 California vert only about 2" of a corner left.

 

Thanks for the good information and that build sheet would be a very cool find when I pull the interior. The carpet isn't in good shape so it definitely is all coming out and hopefully they put this build sheet in a safe spot and not under that carpet. As for the seats do you think they are salvageable? They don't seem to have any rips or tears surprisingly. The color may not be what it used to be of course and I'm not sure how much you can clean vinyl w/out further degrading it. So I may have to find that material as you suggested.

 

Also thanks for the warning about the blasting. I've heard only good things about dustless blasting so far but I will definitely be much more cautious now.

Stang Life!

 

Stangs.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome from San Diego.

 

72 Q code is a worth wild project.

 

It looks like your car came with tape stripe.

 

As for the gas cap. the flip open gas cap only came on the 71 Mach 1. 7273 all sheared the standard cap.

- Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9030-16a.jpg.9e61f9d1da90db073b921498cfb4e8da.jpg

Welcome from San Diego.

 

72 Q code is a worth wild project.

 

It looks like your car came with tape stripe.

 

As for the gas cap. the flip open gas cap only came on the 71 Mach 1. 7273 all sheared the standard cap.

 

The standard cap being this one?

Stang Life!

 

Stangs.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is the standard cap installed.

 

Disregard that terrible tailpipe install that has been fixed.

 

P1010566.thumb.JPG.80cd3fbe78c5fffb3529f1f350f83ebd.JPG

BKDunha

72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)

67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did all 72 Mach 1's come with the rear honeycomb panel in between the taillights? Also my Marti deluxe report shows that my 72 did have the side tape stripe originally. What about the rear decals and the hood decal...was that standard? Would it help if I purchased the original invoice from the Marti site as well? Maybe that would show more details and also I will know whether or not my wheels are original? I'd like to keep this as stock as possible so anything I can find would be very helpful. I would be amazed if I could find the build sheet under the carpet or seats.

 

As for the gas cap and other items on the car...is it best to look for NOS items are go with reproduction so you can get that new look? Also how about body panels? Replace or fix what is already there even if some fenders and other items are relatively cheap to buy reproductions?

Stang Life!

 

Stangs.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your car should have the honeycomb panel. Someone must have replaced the tail light panel. You should see signs of MIG welding the panel in and not spot welds. The Tu-tone hood was a separate option from the side stripes. It cost like $18.00 and included the black out and hood locks. The NASA hood came with the Q code option package.

The repo gas caps are pretty good and also the rear honeycomb panels and the trim strips that go with them.

If you need tail lights Dennis Carpenter sells his seconds on ebay. You have to mask off and paint the black out on a 72 and all they make is 73 style. So if you tell him to ship you two with the aluminum trim loose it is much easier to paint the blackout. They cost half as much and there is no defect that you can see. The trim was just not attached which is a good thing. You can get the console lid from him also it fits perfect exactly like original. Don @ Ohio mustang on the forum has lots of parts and there are a couple more also.

As far as sheet metal if the original is only needing some patches use them but do all butt welds so you can grind both sides and hide the repair.

Don't do like so many and do the drive train first and it set there for maybe two years. Do the body first and then drive train. You can tear down and see what you need of course.

You should take the car to a frame shop now as is and have it checked and pulled if needed to give you a good platform to start from. Search the Forum some great DIY info here. These bodies were weak when new and with rust can get out of shape causing door, hood and trunk fit issues. Date code matching metal is a plus.

You will be surprised how the seats will clean up. I cannot tell you how to do yours but I use lacquer thinner on my white interiors and I have two verts with white. I used tooth brush and micro fiber towels and they look like new. Yes probably tough on the material but I tried all the lesser evils before the thinner. The plastic panels in the back are really difficult to find in good shape. There are some tricks guy use to restore. I have not had to do any so far but will next year so I will be learning also. Speaker holes in the back are a big issue. They never had speakers in the back and people cut up the plastic and the metal behind that also. Hope you have your Space Saver spare that is a difficult one to find. With fold down seat you had one. Can cost big bucks like $500 for the correct one. There are a bunch of different ones. Never believe an ebay ad parts are not the same from 71 - 73 even the tail light panels are different.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,welcome from Seattle. I think your car would be cool just the way it looks. This is a great project to get your son involved with. I was a car nut as a kid and have always favored Fords.

 

Be careful, a full restoration is very expensive and can be an overwhelming job. I think the first thing to do is to evaluate the car and determine the extent of rust repair/body work needed. Start estimating the cost of parts and labor to bring the car to your desired level. Also, some reproduction parts don't seem to fit as well as they should, you may want to ask questions before spending money. NOS parts and original tooling reproduction parts are best. Keep in mind NOS parts are more expensive and not always in perfect condition.

 

Staci.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...