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possible 1971 mach 1 purchase


joy22kar
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A concern I have with this one is based on Pic #2 and the comment by the seller that the floors are cut out. These cars do not have a full frame and the floors are a structural part of the vehicle. In pic two you can see the drivers side door sagging a bit where it meets the rear quarter. Also a couple things to answer on your questions of 71 vs 73. Essentially the 71 to 73 mustangs were the same body styles but with differences, some minor, some not. The biggest diff being the engines, after 71 and most notably by 73 performance from the factory had decreased significantly due to emissions regulations, lowing compression, unleaded gas, etc. (these performance changes can all be reversed but at some cost). There are also safety changes made that brought the bumpers out farther from the body of the car in the front and rear, different engine mounts, etc. This ones looks pretty rough compared to the $4,000 one you posted earlier. It would take considerably more than the $1,400 difference to get this one to the point of the $4,000 car.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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unfortunately the guy hasn't responded with the 4k one. I'll keep looking. Thanks for your honest opinion. I do appreciate it. Trying to stay below 5k with original purchase. I know I won't get much but it's a starting point.

Karla

1972 Mustang Fastback

3 boys and a hubby

 

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unfortunately the guy hasn't responded with the 4k one. I'll keep looking. Thanks for your honest opinion. I do appreciate it. Trying to stay below 5k with original purchase. I know I won't get much but it's a starting point.

 

$5k is not a terrible starting point if you are willing to be patient. I paid less than that for mine. While it is a coupe and not a fastback the care was complete, running driving, rust free, mostly original, and a 351c drivetrain with 69,000 miles on it. I purchased it and drove it as it was for quite some time until I decided to do some upgrades.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Here is one that is relatively close. I don't know the difference between the 71 and 73.

 

Thoughts, questions to ask seller?

 

http://altoona.craigslist.org/search/sss?query=1973+mustang&sort=rel

 

 

Ask if they have the side mirrors for the doors. I would also ask about the condition of the frame rails to see if they are intact as they said the floors are out of it. I myself wouldn't be afraid to take on a project like that one if the price was right. Also not trying to offend anyone but a 302 engine is marginal power wise in these cars but would make for a good cruiser.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP hardware - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe - Duraspark - MSD digital 6al box - MSD TFI coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - lakewood traction bars.                                            

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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ok. so I know someone shared this one as well. I'm not fond of the color and if we are keeping it original, we need to stick with that color correct? But I guess if we never want to sell it, then we just make it whatever color we want?? lol white is the last color I would pick for a mustang (no offense to anyone that owns a white one.. lol)

 

https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/5956927585.html

 

What additional questions should I ask on this one and do you think the price is fair?

 

K

Karla

1972 Mustang Fastback

3 boys and a hubby

 

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If that one truly is a "Sprint" edition I would keep it that way. The sprints were a special edition mustang with the white and blue theme. It was to commemorate the Olympics.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Fair amount of rust in that white one. Passenger side quarter immediately behind the door at the bottom. Drivers side door jamb in the dash picture looks like the door hinge structure has been weakened. I would look at this one closely enough sign here to indicate a lot of metal repair.

BKDunha

72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)

67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)

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Here's my vote for a good project car:

 

http://tucson.craigslist.org/cto/5974810167.html

 

Could be a solid southwest car. You'll save lots of money and time in the long run!!

Mark

71 Mach 1 J code - Japanese export

72 Convertible f code - first car

Numerous other Fords

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ok. so I know someone shared this one as well. I'm not fond of the color and if we are keeping it original, we need to stick with that color correct? But I guess if we never want to sell it, then we just make it whatever color we want?? lol white is the last color I would pick for a mustang (no offense to anyone that owns a white one.. lol)

 

https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/5956927585.html

 

What additional questions should I ask on this one and do you think the price is fair?

 

K

 

White car does look like its a Sprint. If you can get a pic of the door tag (if driver door is orig)it should have code HB for trim code.

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A 255 cubic inch engine and a c4 transmission in the Tucson car, interesting.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP hardware - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe - Duraspark - MSD digital 6al box - MSD TFI coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - lakewood traction bars.                                            

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I'm thinking the 5500 one would need a 351 put back in it??

 

Most definitely, it still looks like a great car for the money though.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP hardware - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe - Duraspark - MSD digital 6al box - MSD TFI coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - lakewood traction bars.                                            

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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ok. This one is killing me. I'm thinking this might be the car. I've asked for the VIN and additional pictures from the seller. Should I ask if he would take a deposit while I get everything lined up to purchase it? How do purchases across state lines work in regards to title transfer? Anyone have any car hauling companies they recommend?

Karla

1972 Mustang Fastback

3 boys and a hubby

 

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ok. This one is killing me. I'm thinking this might be the car. I've asked for the VIN and additional pictures from the seller. Should I ask if he would take a deposit while I get everything lined up to purchase it? How do purchases across state lines work in regards to title transfer? Anyone have any car hauling companies they recommend?

 

Those are some tricky questions but I am sure many on here have purchased online and can offer some great ideas on how to best proceed.

 

As for the transports - I saw this article and all they recommend are good transport co's.

 

https://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/articles/2012/11/29/transporting-your-classic

 

Ray

1971 Boss 351  

1972 Q code 4 speed convertible 

1971 Mustang Sportsroof  351-2V FMX 

1971 Hardtop (parts car)

1973 Mach 1 (parts car)

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Here is a broker I have used in the past. He now has his own transporter but still does some brokering as well.

 

website www.fountaintransportservices.com

BKDunha

72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)

67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)

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I think I am the one that posted this one. The body work does look very nice. A couple of questions to ask the seller...

 

Vin? so you can determine what motor it has/came with. Also ask if he will send you a pic of the data plate on the drivers door. This will tell you a lot about the car including original color, engine, trans, rear end, trim etc.

 

The comment on "the cylinder heads need redone" Why? it could very well be it needs a valve job, seal etc. but if it dropped a valve or the timing chain skipped there could be damage to the bottom end. Or it may have overheated and could have cracked a head.

 

Overall if the car truly is solid and not rusted the price is not too far out there for a 71 mach, this depends of course on what motor it has.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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I would ask if it runs? If he states no, I would ask Why and nothing else. Let him fill in the blanks. If he tells you X, ask him what indicated that was the problem? It can also be started with a gas can feeding the fuel pump if he states it cannot be started because of the gas tank. I am not sure if you are really interested in originality from your earlier posts so the "born as" information will be good to have and lets the seller know you have done some homework before asking those questions. This could be a good candidate for you and if it has some mechanical issues those are easier to fix than body. If you go look at it bring a magnet with. I usually use those thin flexible magnets that they sell at Lowe's and HD if you forget one. With the sellers permission place it on the lower parts of the exterior sheet metal all around the rear wheel, behind the front tire, bottoms of the doors. Open the trunk and look all over that area the floor of the trunks are prone to rust from debris between the gas tank and floor bottom. Look in the cavities on both left and right side of the trunks. Stick your hand down in there and feel for it to be smooth or very bumpy. Smooth is good, very bumpy is bad. Lay down on the floor and look over the bottom of the car. It is better to get dirty now than poor later is my philosophy. It sounds like your husband has the mechanical skills and with the help of the boys could address those. This MAY be a car to except some mechanical shortcomings to get a good body.

BKDunha

72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)

67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)

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