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anyone in Atlanta?


joy22kar
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Just a heads up. If you look at the engine bay photo. The vehicle is missing the shock tower braces that run from the top of the shock towers to the firewall. These are a structural part of the car and will need to be installed ASAP. One should also check closely for structural damage around the shock towers and firewall area of the car.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Hmmm.. interesting. My friend and her brother just offered to go look at it for me. He (the brother) is a mustang collector and she has 3 mustangs herself, but all in the 80's.

Karla

1972 Mustang Fastback

3 boys and a hubby

 

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That is great that someone can go look at it for you. Best decision you can make before spending buckets of money. In my opinion.

BKDunha

72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)

67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)

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yep. her and her brother are going to drive down.. if it's worth it, they are going to bring it home. lol. I still have to get in touch with the guy to arrange everything, but if it works out. this is going to be it. lol.

Karla

1972 Mustang Fastback

3 boys and a hubby

 

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Cool. Keep us informed.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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I think that's one worth looking at, that's for sure. You mentioned ditching the side pipes - agreed. A couple other things I noticed in the pics:

  • Missing Export Braces (shock tower braces) 73pony pointed out (even though the ad says he has them)
  • Missing fan shroud and a flex fan instead of factory clutch fan (why?)
  • wrong hood locks in the wrong place - unless you like them, that is... otherwise, those are now just holes in the hood. Swapping to the correct hood locks is easy enough, but those holes will need to be repaired if so.
  • Air Shocks - not good for the car. They are hard on the rear shock cross-member and indicate tired rear springs (which you'll probably want to replace)
  • Missing wiper washer bottle (inside driver side apron in front of the horns) - probably got brittle and broke, and didn't know where to get a new one. Easy fix.
  • El Cheapo aftermarket air cleaner (obviously not a Ram Air car)
  • I think that's the wrong gas cap for a Mach 1 - should be a flip-down cap (which probably got broken, and this is what it was replaced with)

 

As much as I like those Enkei EK-25 "Sawblade" rims (I grew up in the '80s, after all), I hate when someone changes the rim to fit the stock tire, then are stuck with the same size tires because they spent so much on the rims. 14" wheels on these cars just look too small... not to mention, they limit the ability for improved braking solutions. Plus, they just look goofy when they mix the direction of the spokes - they're directional wheels, after all... re-install them with the spokes all going the right direction! :shootself: :whistling:

 

The interior looks pretty nice. There's a really good chance that's an actual Mach 1 because of the Clock/Speedo cluster - since I remember reading somewhere that Mach 1s were supposed to have a factory clock in them "somewhere," whether that was in the long console or dashboard. That's how my car came from the factory (with a 'short' console as well).

 

I actually like the car, and think it could be so much better with those things above corrected. Of course, everything that's not quite right could be 'deductions' on the asking price if you play it right. I'm not trying to cut down the car's value by any means - you always want to get the best possible deal, of course.

 

Good luck!

 

Oh yeah - let's see those Fox-Bodies your brother has! (My first car was an '82 Mustang). ::thumb::

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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definitely wanted to take it back to more original, hence the deletion of the side pipes and I assumed the air rides. The vin is 1F05M, so I'm assuming it truly is a mach 1. The owner is thinking the car was originally red (plus plus)... :-D

Karla

1972 Mustang Fastback

3 boys and a hubby

 

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1F05M is 1971 Mach 1 with "M" code motor (351 Cleveland with Closed Chamber heads) Great motor.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Last infor from seller. He will not budge below 7k. Still worth it or go with yellow?? I'm so befuddled. Lol

 

there is a baseball size hole in the rear driver side fender well(I have it plugged w/a rag). The gentlemen before me put in new floor boards by riveting them in. The best/correct way is to cut out the old floors & weld the new ones back in. The floors are structurally sound but maybe your significant other or the mustang guys would do this for you in the future. Will need front shocks and down the road front tires only. I honestly can't think of anything else you should or might want to know about the car that I didn't say or put in the ad. Even though it might cause a sale, I would rather tell you, then not & feel guilty.

Karla

1972 Mustang Fastback

3 boys and a hubby

 

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Last infor from seller. He will not budge below 7k. Still worth it or go with yellow?? I'm so befuddled. Lol

 

there is a baseball size hole in the rear driver side fender well(I have it plugged w/a rag). The gentlemen before me put in new floor boards by riveting them in. The best/correct way is to cut out the old floors & weld the new ones back in. The floors are structurally sound but maybe your significant other or the mustang guys would do this for you in the future. Will need front shocks and down the road front tires only. I honestly can't think of anything else you should or might want to know about the car that I didn't say or put in the ad. Even though it might cause a sale, I would rather tell you, then not & feel guilty.

 

Is the yellow car a Mach 1?

 

Pop riveted floorpans scares me. What else is done like that??

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I think the blue one's in the lead. Sure, it's more money up-front, but I think you're getting more car for they money as well.

 

Floor pans can be done without completely tearing the car apart. Tony-muscle has a thread showing everything he did to replace his, and did a nice job as well. ::thumb:: Plus, drilling out rivets is a bit easier than drilling out spot welds. A big thing to remember is to remove or cover up all the surfaces vulnerable to getting hit with flying sparks from a grinding wheel (when cleaning up the mounting surfaces and welding) - I pretty much ruined all the glass in mine because I didn't remove or cover it when I started cutting/grinding on mine.

 

A good rule of thumb that I'm sure has been brought up already: always start with the best car you can afford - that way you won't have to spend more money making it the way you want it. If the yellow is a 302 and you're wanting a 351, there's a big difference there. If the yellow has an automatic, but the blue one is a manual and that's what you want, I think it's the better way to go. As well, an M-Code Mach 1 will have greater resale value than an F-Code Sportsroof down the road if you decide to sell.

 

Good luck!

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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Last infor from seller. He will not budge below 7k. Still worth it or go with yellow?? I'm so befuddled. Lol

 

there is a baseball size hole in the rear driver side fender well(I have it plugged w/a rag). The gentlemen before me put in new floor boards by riveting them in. The best/correct way is to cut out the old floors & weld the new ones back in. The floors are structurally sound but maybe your significant other or the mustang guys would do this for you in the future. Will need front shocks and down the road front tires only. I honestly can't think of anything else you should or might want to know about the car that I didn't say or put in the ad. Even though it might cause a sale, I would rather tell you, then not & feel guilty.

 

Is the yellow car a Mach 1?

 

Pop riveted floorpans scares me. What else is done like that??

Plus 1 on the floor pans ...

How about

PS belt alignment

new carpeting not cut / fit very well around shifter

Seats are for standard int, dash and door panels for deluxe

front seats for a 71, rear interior panels for a 72 or 73

has 2 pieces of the 10 pc lower body molding set on the front fenders ???

 

Has a hole with a rag stuffed in it - that sound like there will be more hidden rust / rot

 

Make sure your friend checks for the vin on the motor

AND makes sure the car has staggard shocks a 71 M code will have staggard shocks

I don't think anyone has pointed out to you how easy it is to change the dash pad with the VIN on it

DO NOT rely on the dash vin only

Make sure it has a door tag that matches, if no door tag I would want to loosen the fender bolts and see the hidden VIN. Make sure you have two places where those numbers match. Good luck

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So maybe now I'm thinking yellow since both need floors and I can make the 302 have more power and a mach 1 clone. And it's a cheaper start. Not looking for resale value

Karla

1972 Mustang Fastback

3 boys and a hubby

 

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That's what I did with mine seeing it was a very rough rolling chassis when we bought it. I used Mach1 and boss styling cues with no faux badging on our car, we didn't want to misrepresent:D

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP hardware - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe - Duraspark - MSD digital 6al box - MSD TFI coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - lakewood traction bars.                                            

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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From the ad the guy does not know Mustangs probably trying to flip cars and make money. The car is really rough I would not touch it. I actually turned down a 71 M code in December last year to $2,500 that was in better shape than this car. It was one of the 150 that had vinyl roof also. This car is a thrown together mess that will cost way more to fix than it is worth. It is not a good parts car for $1,000 in my opinion and I have several of these cars and have owned since new. They come up cheap all the time keep searching and make sure what engine is in the car you by that is called for in the VIN#. For $7,000 you should get a pretty nice car not this piece of junk. I am in North Carolina if you find something near me glad to go look for you.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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So the guy was a total jerk. He told me to let him know by 1. So I honestly told him last night I wanted it and he said, I have 2 people coming today to look at it. First with cash gets it. I told him that wasn't possible as I was 750 miles away. He was also a jerk when I pointed out shock tower and fitment of drivers side fender. So i have an email in to the guy with the yellow. Convert it to a mach 1, nor worried about resale value just having a fun car to drive.

Karla

1972 Mustang Fastback

3 boys and a hubby

 

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Boom! Mic-drop. It kind of sounded like the Atlanta guy was going to be a jerk - they usually are when they won't budge on the price.

 

Get the yellow car and don't look back. There's going to be a lot of work involved, but that's half the fun. Just get it back to good and enjoy it. ::thumb::

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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So the guy was a total jerk. He told me to let him know by 1. So I honestly told him last night I wanted it and he said, I have 2 people coming today to look at it. First with cash gets it. I told him that wasn't possible as I was 750 miles away. He was also a jerk when I pointed out shock tower and fitment of drivers side fender. So i have an email in to the guy with the yellow. Convert it to a mach 1, nor worried about resale value just having a fun car to drive.

That car will never sell for $7000 he was just trying to pressure you into buy. It will be on cl for a long time and he will not get half that.

You should maybe take some more time there have been several in Ga, Tenn, N.C., S.C. craigslist in last weeks. Heck I turned down a new Dynacorn scooped hood for $250 in the box the other day. These cars just do not bring big money. If you look at sold cars on eBay you will see the same cars sell over and over because the Joke bidders run the price up over market value and then don't close the deal. Lots of times you can contact the seller and get the car outside of eBay for less money.

You need to find a solid car so you don't have to spend lots of money to get what you want. One of our members had two cars go to insurance auction not long ago that would have been great to build a resto mod. No body damage just water inside.

I will let you know if something pops up here.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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