Need help with fuel system redesign

So in the spirit of honesty, I don't know everything.  Having made that painful admission, here is what I know and what I don't know about my fuel system.

I know it is inadequate.

I know I want to go to an electric pump mounted in the tank

I know I do not want to go to a fuel cell.

I want to keep my carburetor rather than go to fuel injection

I would like to replace all my lines with larger lines capable of moving more fuel.  I'm thinking 1/2 inch lines.

I don't know AN fittings well at all

I know very little about electric fuel pumps, but do understand the general wiring with a relay and a oil pressure cutoff.

I understand that filters are pretty important and location matters.  Beyond that I'm in the dark.

I would appreciate any help.

Here is a good article on AN fittings with a size chart.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/document.asp?DocID=TECH00096

Over 600 HP a bump up to 8AN is recommended.

Interesting articles-now I even know less than I knew before!

Interesting articles-now I even know less than I knew before!

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HAHA!!!!   rofl  Glad I could help!  

Im interested in seeing the other replies.  My fuel system is the stock one and will probably need upgraded at some point also.

Okay, so as I research, here is what I am leaning towards using

AER-FCP0134 Dual feed line with -8n fitting

fuelab 20901 to adapt my tank to an in tank pump

VPN-F90000262 Walboro 105 GPH pump

MP-9945-BLK Return style regulator with -8n fittings for the inlet an -10n fittings for the return (I think there are better choices here, I just haven't found them yet.

Summit fuel line kit SUM-PUMPKIT3 or something similar- I think this is another part that I should be able to find a better alternative.

Again, I am ignorant so if something looks to be an issue please speak up

when i was building my tbucket yrs ago. i had enough issues to solve for this was a non-kit car.. fab almost everything.. so when it came to the fuel i keep with the KISS program. pep boys off the shelf elect fuel pump. keep it within 18" of tank with filter before/after pump. the pump put out 5# without a regulator. simi hopped up chebby 350, camed, tunnel, etc. never had a fuel issue going that way.

Why not just keep it simple with a RobbMc mechanical pump bigger lines and your fuel feed problems are over and done with. Plenty of 800+HP engines in Australia fed by these pumps without ant dramas. Over the years I've seen more problems caused by people trying to over complicate their fuel systems, especially on boosted engines and when a simple method was used they were blown away that something so simple worked and worked well without any problems. Here's a link to his bigger pump also check out or even call them to see what they can help you with your needs.

http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/ford1100.html

I have a nice Holley "lift pump" mounted inside my driver side rear wheelwell.  It has a pre-filter and works with the standard filter under the hood.  I have a Mr. Gasket 5psi pressure regulator inline with the filter and the carb.  I also fashioned a rock-chip shroud/cover for it out of a discarded plastic underside panel from a VW Jetta (I think...).

Prior to that, I had a Holley 'Black' racing fuel pump with the same configuration.  It was was noisy as all get out - you can hear it right before I start the car on my Frankenstang LIVES! video:


Anyway, the car fires right up with either of the fuel pumps... even after having sat for several months (turn the key to 'On,', the fuel pump runs, tap the pedal lightly once, turn the key to 'Start,' car comes to life).

Here are the pics of the fuel pump set-up - pretty much everything else on my fuel system is standard.

First installation of the Holley Black fuel pump.  I wound up putting a 90" elbow on the inlet and re-routing the fuel line up and over the bump stop bracket for the hard line.



Here's the shroud/cover - you can just make out the inlet elbow for the Holley Black pump:



Here's the new Holley pump - inline and much quieter, the shroud cover it even more completely:



And finally, here's the bottom shot of the Holley Black pump installed under the car.  Even as bulky as it appears, it didn't interfere with anything (top left/center, forward of the rear axle).



Hope this helps.  I'm going to be swapping out the carb and pretty much everything under the hood in favor of an Edelbrock E-Street TBI system with the Edelbrock Sump Kit (since I am running a "returnless" system, with no tank vent/return line) but everything else will stay the same.  The Holley pump I have now will act as a 'lift' pump to help keep the system primed.

Why not just keep it simple with a RobbMc mechanical pump bigger lines and your fuel feed problems are over and done with. Plenty of 800+HP engines in Australia fed by these pumps without ant dramas. Over the years I've seen more problems caused by people trying to over complicate their fuel systems, especially on boosted engines and when a simple method was used they were blown away that something so simple worked and worked well without any problems. Here's a link to his bigger pump also check out or even call them to see what they can help you with your needs.

http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/ford1100.html

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I was just coming back to post that the more I researched, the more it looked like a premium mechanical pump with larger lines was going to be the answer.

Tanks inc has a really nice in tank fuel pump. Autoedit on youtube has an install video and it required very little modification to the stock tank due to the flat spot where the vent line goes in.

Why not just keep it simple with a RobbMc mechanical pump bigger lines and your fuel feed problems are over and done with. Plenty of 800+HP engines in Australia fed by these pumps without ant dramas. Over the years I've seen more problems caused by people trying to over complicate their fuel systems, especially on boosted engines and when a simple method was used they were blown away that something so simple worked and worked well without any problems. Here's a link to his bigger pump also check out or even call them to see what they can help you with your needs.

http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/ford1100.html

Click to expand...

I was just coming back to post that the more I researched, the more it looked like a premium mechanical pump with larger lines was going to be the answer.

Click to expand...

Yes this is the best all round way of going, easy to install, route the lines the same way as factory. Easiest set up you can do and all straight forward. They do a fuel pick up for 1/2" lines as well but I don't think for our years, but it wouldn't be too hard to modify a 69/70 unit to fit. Best off would be to give them a call and tell them of your needs. From what I gather speaking to guys in the US, they are great to deal with and give useful advice and most of all, are car guys that really know their stuff. Win win in my book.

I called, all set up and being built. Did not get the sender, though I discussed it with them and was told they had problems as it pointed the outlet the wrong way. I can modify a stock pick up to use a 1/2 tube, but I'm a little concerned that welding the new tube in place will damage the coating on the fuel lines and lead to potential corrosion, but then again, it will generally have fuel in it so that may not be a concern. Might be better to braze-any other suggestions on this from the collective knowledge bank?

Weld it up while it has fuel in it; the fuel will cool the welds down a bit while everything explodes in your lap!

Why do you need 1/2" fuel lines, unless you are running on the drag strip or at high RPMs on a circle track? There's 4 times the volumemetric flow over 1/4" line; 2.56 times the flow over a 5/16" line. That's a huge amount of fuel difference!

Any good radiator shop can weld the tube for you. I did this when i added a return tube to the sending unit. If you are concerned with heat damaging the coating of the tube recoat it with POR15s fuel tank sealant.

1971 M-code Mach 1

I can weld it no problem, the POR sealant is a good thought.

As to fuel volume, I am sucking the bowls dry before the end of a 1/4 mile run and I want to eventually take the car through an ECTA event where I would have it wide open for at least a full mile. I don't know as much as some people about this, but everything I can find seems to suggest that at over 600 hp I need bigger lines to keep my carb from leaning out on the top end- I spent too much time and money building my engine to trash it for lack of an adequate fuel supply. Overkill is just right.

If your planning on racing build a pick up in the rear of the tank. This also solves the pick up/sender issue and gives you a place to mount a filter. Make it so it is the lowest point and at the centre rear of the tank that way you will always have fuel.

Some brazing requires high enough heat to burn off the zinc coating, so be sure to have good ventilation. I agree with brazing it rather than welding it and would probably use silver braze because it's melting temperature is well below the temperature that zinc boils/burns off. It should also blend well with the zinc to keep everything coated.

Both good suggestions. I probably won't build the sump right away as I would only do that on a new tank. Considered using the hydromat when I was looking at in tank electric, but not sure I can get one in through the sender opening and positioned in a manner to make it worthwhile. I will make sure that the pick up is nice and low to the bottom of the tank and keep enough gas in it to try and avoid any starvation issues