need opinions floor pans

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joy22kar

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so tim was talking to the local body shop.  And they suggested screwing/rivoting in the floor pans and using a metal grade epoxy to make the "weld".  I can't imagine this is the same or better than welding.  Has anyone ever done this and is it safe?  Will it pass inspection, etc.... (I don't think this is a good idea.  I think welding is the way to go).  Just trying to convince Tim that it's a structural floor, so should be one piece (i.e. weld it in).

question 2.. what sound deadener/heat padding do you guys use in the floor prior to laying the carpeting.  Looking for suggestions of what you guys like and use. 

We are almost ready to install the first floor pan. Tim is doing one at a time so that the second one is hopefully easier than the first.  We do have access to a MIG welder.

 
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WELD IT! Like you said the floors are a structural part of the car. I shake my head when ever I see floor pans riveted or screwed into place (Hack Job)

OK so the best route to go for sound deadener is the Dynamat type products. Here is a suggestion though. You are paying a premium for that name. I spoke with a local custom interior guy about it and he told me to go to the local Menards and get it. I have a roll left at home I can get the name off. But I did my entire car front to back (less ceiling as my headliner was in good shape) for under $50. I also went as far up the firewall as I could without removing the dash. HUGE difference and my car still had the factory sound deadener under the carpet before I removed and replaced with this and new carpet.

 
The 3M Panel Adhesive is a quality product, and from my understanding will produce a bond that rivals welding.  I used it on one of my quarter panels when I decided to redo it because I'd made a mistake during installation (my first time, and it was the first one I did).  I don't have an opinion on using it for a structural piece like a floor pan, other than basically the same as how you feel about it - I think I would also prefer welding over the panel adhesive for floor pans.

As for sound deadener, I used RAAMat BXT and Ensolite - which is basically DynaMat without all of the Dynamat logos plastered everywhere (which oddly enough, is good for about 30% in cost savings).  The price has come up a bit since I bought mine, but it's still cheaper than most of the other peel-n-stick products out there.  A lot of the other guys have gone with spray-in or roll-in solutions (Lizard Skin, et al) and had really good luck - it just depends on what kind of application method and/or how much you want to spend.  The

It's easy to apply: have the surface absolutely clean, test-fit and loosely trim if you get into a corner or similar, then peel the backing and stick it down.  You don't need to, but I recommend getting a wallpaper seam roller and squish it down to better fit the contours.  You're going to be putting carpet over it, after all, and the layers of materials add up, which can make putting things back in (like seats, consoles, etc.) not line up 100%.

Also, make sure you have all of the holes in the floor pans (center console mounting holes, seat belt mounting points, etc.) drilled and ready to go before putting down whatever sound deadener you go with.  I forgot to punch the holes for my seat belts until just before I put my carpet in.  The RAAMat made a bit of a sticky mess of my drill bits - not horrible... just enough of a PITA of having to clean them, rather than just toss 'em back in the box after punching the holes... ya know?

Here's the RAAMat going down. 

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It covers really well.  Make sure to put any seam sealer or other treatments down before the 'mat (mine is covered in Rust Bullet Black Shell with 3M brush-on seam sealer in the junction areas).  The roller is mostly just for the seams - I only had a few overlapped areas, but for the areas that butted up against each other, they recommend using some aluminum HVAC duct tape (the RAAMat BXT is a sound as well as a thermal barrier - the Ensolite is just to break up the sound and act as an insulator).  I can't imagine not sealing up the edges making that much of a difference, but Hey - I'm not the expert so I followed the directions - you can't see the HVAC duct tape since it all blends together without having logos and whatnot everywhere. 

Since I put down Jute-backed cut-pile carpet, I didn't bother putting in the factory-style asphalt pads or put Ensolite on the floors.  I also installed just the BXT to the roof panels, between the cross members, added the factory-style insulation, and installed the headliner as normal. The roof used to sound all tinny when I'd knock on it, now it sounds like I'm thumping on a tank. 

I haven't done the doors or inside the quarter-trim area yet, since I'm still not done with my universal power windows, but I'll be adding some BXT strips to the inside of the outer skins, and completely covering the inner panels with BXT and Ensolite.  I'll be adding some BXT strips to the trunk pan, inside the quarters, and trunk lid, and then some Ensolite to the backside of the rear seat divider and under the package tray (since I'll have a box with a pair of 10" subs up under there soon).  But beyond that, I'm thinking it's all sealed up pretty well.

37.5 square feet of coverage sounds like a lot.  But in that first picture, you're looking at approximately 2/3 of the first pack of RAAMat I bought.  I bought 3 packs altogether, because I wanted to make sure the road noise and temperature issues were minimized as much as possible.  In that regard, spraying something like Lizard Skin might've been the quicker way to go.  If I start running short while doing the doors or the trunk, I'll get some more - I don't want to be that guy whose trunk lid or taillight trim panel is "buzzing" when the subs are hitting. ;)

Here's a link to their website.  Check out the 'How-To' page - it's very informative.  http://www.raamaudio.com/

Hope this helps!

 
Weld it..... I used the eastwood brand of sound deadner/ heat shield. Same as everyone else said. But its aq fraction of what actual dynamat costs. Made a world of difference for road noise and heat on my feet with headers.

 
I used the frost king duct insulation and it is a waste of money. Because it is relatively light weight, it does little to nothing to quiet sound. It might block some heat, but think about where the foil is. . . foil on top of foam on top of sheet metal is not a good way to block heat in the first place.

If whatever material you choose is lightweight, it won't work. Look into mass loaded vinyl. Many of the commercial products are just repackaged roll roofing underlayment. Look at spec sheets to actually compare items

 
Just wanted to echo what was said. Unitized body is only sub-frames. The floor holds the car together. Even just patches should be welded.

I also am a firm believer in adding sub-frame connected. Haven't done it with my '73 yet, but they were great on my 1970 Stang.

 
I went with the Global West subframe connectors on mine - love 'em! ::thumb::

 
I would also advise as others on welding. The floor is a supporting member in the unibody construction. Without sound structural integrity you are starting to put more strain on the other structural members and in an accident you will have reduced the ability of the car to absorb the impact.

On sound deadener I used the spray in Lizard Skin product. It is about the same price as the Dynamat and some of the other mats that you role down on the floor. My choice was influenced by several contacts I have that have kit cars and fiberglass body components. They were very very happy with the product and the simple spray and walk away. It can also be painted over which I wanted for judging needs.

 
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Properly used, the epoxy weld material is just as good as metal welding, but it does require two surfaces to mate. If you are patching a panel, either you'll have to flange the patch to overlap the existing metal or stitch weld it in place.

Many hobbyists are a bit reluctant to use the epoxy weld, but the manufacturers have been using it for 20 years now. I can understand how folks prefer to weld things instead, though.

 
Feel free to check my floor pan thread:

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-muscletang-needs-new-floor-pans-advice

Echo welding and subframe connectors.

For sound proofing I used an approximate 75% coverage with Dynamat, I added a layer of carpet underlayment (sold by CJP), and then I used the mass backed carpet from ACC. Fit was great, installation was easy, and the interior sound is great for a classic car. I also sprayed the inner fenders with Boom Mat.

 
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