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Fuel line to carb routing.


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Replaceing an old Holley with a newer Edelbrock carb. The Holley fuel inlet was on the front fuel bowl drivers side, the Edelbrock fuel inlet is on the rear bowl, passenger side. What it the best way to route my fuel line to the new one? 

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Jason
1973 Mach1 Q-code

My carbon footprint is exceptionally large.

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Hey, that carb looks familiar........I cant believe it got there already. I'll see if I have a photo for you of how I had my Edelbrock line routed but it was nothing fancy. I just had the fuel line in front of the carb and then to the inlet.

Don't forget to put a ground wire on the electric choke.

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Fredensborg,

 

First thing would be to get rid of the glass fuel filter. If that gets broken, it will blow fuel all over the place. You could get a nice 3/8 fuel lines and then insert the fuel line into the Thermal Heat shield HP Color Sleeve to protect the hose from the engine heat.

 

https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/automotive/thermal-and-heat-shield-sleeving/hp-color-sleeve

 

mustang7173

Thanks,

mustang7173 🇺🇸

"Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway" -- John Wayne

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Hey, that carb looks familiar........I cant believe it got there already.  I'll see if I have a photo for you of how I had my Edelbrock line routed but it was nothing fancy.  I just had the fuel line in front of the carb and then to the inlet.

Don't forget to put a ground wire on the electric choke.

 

HAha, yup came a day early according to USPS! Thanks again man. Hopefully it's up and running soon.

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Jason
1973 Mach1 Q-code

My carbon footprint is exceptionally large.

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Fredensborg,

 

First thing would be to get rid of the glass fuel filter. If that gets broken, it will blow fuel all over the place. You could get a nice 3/8 fuel lines and then insert the fuel line into the Thermal Heat shield HP Color Sleeve to protect the hose from the engine heat.

 

https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/automotive/thermal-and-heat-shield-sleeving/hp-color-sleeve

 

mustang7173

I never thought about it breaking....good point. But this car has been sitting so long I just want to get it driving again. If I get it all squared away, I'll probably spend a few bucks and get a better setup going.

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Jason
1973 Mach1 Q-code

My carbon footprint is exceptionally large.

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Quick couple of suggestions for a clean looking install. Ditch the glass filter, as stated above NOT SAFE!!!. Second if you are handy and have a tubing bender (they are cheap at the auto parts store) buy some hard line and make a template with a coat hanger to route the hardline clear of everything and up to the fuel inlet. Then use that template and the tubing bender to make a hard line for the fuel line. Looks much better than rubber lines and is safer.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

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Wow those Edelbrock carbs look weird, kinda sideways when you're used to a Holley.

Absolutely agree, loose the glass filter and get a steel one instead, not even plastic will be safe.

I know this is for my Holley, but here is a picture of the 3/8" fuel line I just made up. It may give you an idea. I would suggest a short length of High Pressure Ethanol safe rubber line (with an elbow fitting off the pump) to take vibration out, then go 3/8" steel all the way and if possible a solid connection at the carb. I used a 30" length, but you will need longer and you may need to get a double flare end remade. Just my 2 cents worth.......... or not.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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Wow. That is the exact route I am planning to run mine. Not to mention I have the same tubing bender as well. Looks great!

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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On my 460 I used the metal OEM fuel line up to an inline fuel filter (not glass) then bent some new metal line to go along the side and around the back. It makes for a very clean install.

When I use the Holley I flip it's fuel feed over so the inlet is at the back.

I keep it up off the intake and have never had any heat issues with it.

Bob

 

Tachs, Voltmeters, Headlight kits, Wiper delays and more at

http://www.rccinnovations.com/Images/smlogo.jpg

Rocketman's Classic Cougar (and Mustang) Innovations, LLC

 

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Wow. That is the exact route I am planning to run mine. Not to mention I have the same tubing bender as well. Looks great!

 

 Thanks. Not shown is a metal inline filter I use between the apron and pump on the inlet side. The benefit is it is easily change on a regular basis, but I may switch that to install after the pump as was suggested. To do that, I will need to change the entire tube or make a new double flare with an adaptor as I can't find a small metal filter similar to the stock type that screws into the Autolite carb, for 3/8th" hose. I would need to go from 5/16th to 3/8 as it presently stands.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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Stanglover,

 

Very Very Nice looking tube routing!

 

mustang7173

Thanks,

mustang7173 🇺🇸

"Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway" -- John Wayne

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Those custom bent lines look nice! I'll definitely be upgrading my set up!

 

 Thank you. I hoped it might offer some suggestions as to how to route your new fuel line. Basically, you'll need to extend past where mine meets the Holley inlet and figure out your connection. PLEASE, make sure everything is tight and secure before pumping fuel and have someone watch while you're firing it up. I nearly burned my car up when I put the Holley inlet on without someone there to watch for leaks. Could have been a really bad day!!

 I figure you'll need at least a 40" line, maybe longer. You can likely rent a double flare tool kit if need be. Practice with it first if you have not done it before. If I can help further, perhaps a PM would be best.

Geoff.

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Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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Stanglover,

 

Very Very Nice looking tube routing!

 

mustang7173

 

 Thank you too. Still room for improvement though. FYI, it took a 30" length of tube with the inverted flare nuts already on, but I cut one off to attach the rubber vibration tube/connector to pump.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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To plumb my Edelbrock 1406, I used the included (I think) pick-up elbow and bought a Mr. Gasket fuel pressure gauge, a Holley fuel pressure regulator, a clear plastic-cased inline fuel filter, and pretty much used the original line... although somewhat trimmed to line-up with the extra inline 'features.'  I also went with an electric fuel pump, so right about where the fuel pump block-off plate is, the frame fuel line just connects directly to the engine fuel line with some bubble flares, worm-screw clamps, and EFI fuel line.

 

So far, so good... but of course, it all goes out the window when I install the fuel injection (Edelbrock as well, of course).  :whistling:

Eric

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To plumb my Edelbrock 1406, I used the included (I think) pick-up elbow and bought a Mr. Gasket fuel pressure gauge, a Holley fuel pressure regulator, a clear plastic-cased inline fuel filter, and pretty much used the original line... although somewhat trimmed to line-up with the extra inline 'features.'  I also went with an electric fuel pump, so right about where the fuel pump block-off plate is, the frame fuel line just connects directly to the engine fuel line with some bubble flares, worm-screw clamps, and EFI fuel line.

 

So far, so good... but of course, it all goes out the window when I install the fuel injection (Edelbrock as well, of course).  :whistling:

 

 Eric, I do not agree with the use of plastic filter either. While definitely safer than glass, they can break or even melt. OK so you can't see through a steel inline and generally they are bigger, but when you've dumped a ton of money into your ride, why take a chance. But that's just me I guess, I'm not about to risk a 50K car over a $4 filter. Also while I'm at it, I do NOT use worm gear clamps other than for set up and or testing. Not only are they UGLY, they can fail when least expected. I use factory style tower clamps or when appropriate, the spring type as supplied with the filter and replace when changing a filter.

Just my opinion.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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:goodpost:

 

Thanks!  I can respect your opinion, and I'm not offering any arguments either - your points are sound, and make perfect sense.  I think I forgot to mention that the filter is pretty much right where the fuel pump block-off plate is, and having ran the engine while observing with a laser thermometer - with average temps in that area at just about 150F, I'm pretty sure it's in no danger of melting.  (knocking on a wooden surface, just in case  ;)  )

 

I've never had any issues with worm-screw clamps failing or otherwise, however, I have had to fix someone else's worm-screw clamps, though on other previously-owned vehicles I've had (over-tightened and mangled the hoses, stripped out the threads, etc.) - I think we've all had vehicles where we've had to undo the sins of the previous owners before they were up to our standards.  ::thumb::

 

 

Besides, the Edelbrock E-Street EFI will be eliminating every bit of my plumbing job from the front frame rail fuel line to the TBI with pre-fabbed EFI lines using AN fittings.  :cool:   That's intended to be happening probably within the next few months, after I get some spring cleaning things done and out of the way.

 

But yeah - I'm right there with ya not wanting to risk it all on "iffy" components.

Eric

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:goodpost:

 

Thanks!  I can respect your opinion, and I'm not offering any arguments either - your points are sound, and make perfect sense.  I think I forgot to mention that the filter is pretty much right where the fuel pump block-off plate is, and having ran the engine while observing with a laser thermometer - with average temps in that area at just about 150F, I'm pretty sure it's in no danger of melting.  (knocking on a wooden surface, just in case  ;)  )

 

OK, if it's out of the way, I see your point. It's when they get placed on top of the intake, I worry.

 

I've never had any issues with worm-screw clamps failing or otherwise, however, I have had to fix someone else's worm-screw clamps, though on other previously-owned vehicles I've had (over-tightened and mangled the hoses, stripped out the threads, etc.) - I think we've all had vehicles where we've had to undo the sins of the previous owners before they were up to our standards.  ::thumb::

 

True when they are used correctly, but they still look UGLY!!

 

Besides, the Edelbrock E-Street EFI will be eliminating every bit of my plumbing job from the front frame rail fuel line to the TBI with pre-fabbed EFI lines using AN fittings.  :cool:   That's intended to be happening probably within the next few months, after I get some spring cleaning things done and out of the way.

 

The new EFI set-ups are really the way to go. Most of us use new carbs anyway and an EFI unit doesn't look much different, but a whole lot more efficient. It's the cost that stops me from going that route.... until I win the lottery!

 

But yeah - I'm right there with ya not wanting to risk it all on "iffy" components.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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