Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller Conversion question

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ok. So I am converting to hydraulic roller cam as the title states. Comp sent me their kit #31-1000. In the directions it states the block must have two bosses cast into the block in the lifter valley area. I'm not 100% sure what they are referring to. Pic of lifter valley below. If they've are not there is there another option?

Any help is much appreciated. 



 
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DON'T DO IT!!!!! SEND IT ALL BACK!! I strongly recommend not using comp Hydraulic rollers! I have had 3 roller failures from them in the past few months. I am fighting with them now to get my money back, well my machine shop is fighting for me. My machine shop quit using Comp completely. I had 3 collapse on me in a row! Go with isky or another good brand. Also they sell the dog bone type lifters that do not need the spider in the lifter valley. You have to drill and tap holes in the valley to keep the spider in place which hold the lifters in place.

 
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I believe the 2 bosses are referenced under part #31-1001 which is for a block originally with a roller cam.

Kit 31-1000 for earlier non-roller block will need to have 2 holes drilled and tapped in the lifter valley.

The instructions cover both 31-1000 and 31-1001 kits

 
DON'T DO IT!!!!! SEND IT ALL BACK!! I strongly recommend not using comp Hydraulic rollers! I have had 3 roller failures from them in the past few months. I am fighting with them now to get my money back, well my machine shop is fighting for me. My machine shop quit using Comp completely. I had 3 collapse on me in a row! Go with isky or another good brand. Also they sell the dog bone type lifters that do not need the spider in the lifter valley. You have to drill and tap holes in the valley to keep the spider in place which hold the lifters in place.
I don't have Comp lifters. The guy at comp who helped spec out my cam told me that there were issues with their lifters and high lift cams. He gave me the name of a company to get them from. I forgot the name but they are Made in USA. I can swing by at lunch and look them up.

 
I am curious as to the difference/benefit of using the spider set up from comp Vs the dog bone style though. I will certainly change course if it means better quality and reliability.

 
I believe the 2 bosses are referenced under part #31-1001 which is for a block originally with a roller cam.

Kit 31-1000 for earlier non-roller block will need to have 2 holes drilled and tapped in the lifter valley.

The instructions cover both 31-1000 and 31-1001 kits
Thanks. Just re-read that section. It was getting kind of late so I was tired when reading through.

 
That's good!! So they admitted to having a problem with their lifters?? They told me mine was " a fluke, never seen that before!!" So I got 3 flukes in a row!! Hopefully get mine figured out soon. Please do let me know what lifters your are running I am very curious. Thanks!!!

I prefer the dog bones so you don't have the hassle of modifying original non roller blocks.

 
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That's good!! So they admitted to having a problem with their lifters?? They told me mine was " a fluke, never seen that before!!" So I got 3 flukes in a row!! Hopefully get mine figured out soon.  Please do let me know what lifters your are running I am very curious.  Thanks!!!

I prefer the dog bones so you don't have the hassle of modifying original non roller blocks.
Is not having to modify the block the only real benefit to the dog bone style?

 
I would avoid drilling holes in my block too! I looked at these kits, but decided against them as well. I went will all Lunati stuff. Had 1 bad lifter to start with, but this set seems to be holding up. Unfortunately if your not paying top dollar, valve train components are hit or miss. Good luck!!

 
I have a complete CompCams hydraulic roller valve-train, and I've had zero issues.  I went with the K32-421-8 kit, and my machine shop drilled & tapped the holes for the lifter spider while they were working on the block.

Here's the best picture I have - those 2 Allen bolts in the center of the spine (with threadlock) are it.

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Mine's a cruiser - no track time - and has about 100 miles on it at this point... so, if there's a longevity issue, I haven't had it.  I think I remember reading an article in Mustang Monthly about MCE building a roller Cleveland - they said you need to align the roller lifters with the stamping toward the outside of the block (they need to all be aligned correctly) or it could cause pre-mature failure.  I haven't seen anything else on that topic, however, so maybe it's just one of those things that the old guy (Marvin) just does as part of his building routine.

Hope this helps!

 
Cool. Thanks for the post! Quick question. Did you consider drilling holes in the spider where the oil return holes are in the lifter valley? I realize there is the raised channel to allow the oil to pass under it, I just don't want to end up with the oil not draining back quickly enough and starving a bearing or something.

 
I believe PBM/Morel was bought out by Bullet cams. Those would be the best quality roller lifter retro fit kit there is on the market. TMeyer uses them exclusively.
I checked TMeyer's site and the only ones he advertises are the Lunati ones.

 
Cool. Thanks for the post! Quick question. Did you consider drilling holes in the spider where the oil return holes are in the lifter valley? I realize there is the raised channel to allow the oil to pass under it, I just don't want to end up with the oil not draining back quickly enough and starving a bearing or something.
I don't know how deep those Allen bolts go into the block, but it's not very much (less than or up to 3/8", if I remember correctly).  With them inserted and thread-locked, there should be no danger of oil leaking or being obstructed in the channel where they might breach.

As well, the raised channels on the spider itself correspond with the existing holes in the top of the block to aid in the oil flow back to the inlets.  As you can see in the 'before' picture of my engine, the holes under the center spine of the spider are where the oil finds its way back into the engine. If you block them with fasteners for the lifter spider, then you probably will impede the return flow of the oil (by blocking off the path for the oil to return). ;)

attachment.php


 
Cool. Thanks for the post! Quick question. Did you consider drilling holes in the spider where the oil return holes are in the lifter valley? I realize there is the raised channel to allow the oil to pass under it, I just don't want to end up with the oil not draining back quickly enough and starving a bearing or something.
I don't know how deep those Allen bolts go into the block, but it's not very much (less than or up to 3/8", if I remember correctly).  With them inserted and thread-locked, there should be no danger of oil leaking or being obstructed in the channel where they might breach.

As well, the raised channels on the spider itself correspond with the existing holes in the top of the block to aid in the oil flow back to the inlets.  As you can see in the 'before' picture of my engine, the holes under the center spine of the spider are where the oil finds its way back into the engine.  If you block them with fasteners for the lifter spider, then you probably will impede the return flow of the oil (by blocking off the path for the oil to return). ;)

attachment.php
Dang. That block looked rough! Massive transformation. I understand where and how deep to drill the block. You are correct it says to go 3/8". I was just considering drilling holes in the spider to correspond with the oil return holes to increase flow.

 
Cool. Thanks for the post! Quick question. Did you consider drilling holes in the spider where the oil return holes are in the lifter valley? I realize there is the raised channel to allow the oil to pass under it, I just don't want to end up with the oil not draining back quickly enough and starving a bearing or something.
I don't know how deep those Allen bolts go into the block, but it's not very much (less than or up to 3/8", if I remember correctly).  With them inserted and thread-locked, there should be no danger of oil leaking or being obstructed in the channel where they might breach.

As well, the raised channels on the spider itself correspond with the existing holes in the top of the block to aid in the oil flow back to the inlets.  As you can see in the 'before' picture of my engine, the holes under the center spine of the spider are where the oil finds its way back into the engine.  If you block them with fasteners for the lifter spider, then you probably will impede the return flow of the oil (by blocking off the path for the oil to return). ;)

attachment.php
Dang. That block looked rough! Massive transformation. I understand where and how deep to drill the block. You are correct it says to go 3/8". I was just considering drilling holes in the spider to correspond with the oil return holes to increase flow.
Yeah - don't do that... you'll block off half the oil return capability with 2 fasteners.

 
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