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Hey guys,

 

Starting the initial disassembly to eventually pull the engine/tranny.  This is the carburetor I found and I'm guessing it's not the original...  It's a Holley

 

 

Carb1.jpg

 

Carb2.jpg

 

carb3.jpg

 

carb4.jpg


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Hey guys,

 

Starting the initial disassembly to eventually pull the engine/tranny.  This is the carburetor I found and I'm guessing it's not the original...  It's a Holley

 

 

Carb1.jpg

 

Carb2.jpg

 

carb3.jpg

 

carb4.jpg

 

Mike,

 

That is not the OEM carb for your car. The one that you need is a Motorcraft 4300 part D2ZF-DA. The DA suffix on this one makes it correct for a Q code automatic California car, but I have been looking for one for a couple years and have never seen one. I had to settle for a D2ZF-BB carb which is the correct one for your car for the other 49 states. They are still very hard to find, but do come up once and a while. I will keep my eye on one for you and let you know if I run across one.


Jeff

1972 Q Code Convertible

 

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Mike,

 

That is not the OEM carb for your car. The one that you need is a Motorcraft 4300 part D2ZF-DA. The DA suffix on this one makes it correct for a Q code automatic California car, but I have been looking for one for a couple years and have never seen one. I had to settle for a D2ZF-BB carb which is the correct one for your car for the other 49 states. They are still very hard to find, but do come up once and a while. I will keep my eye on one for you and let you know if I run across one.

 

How about this one??  Probably needs a full rebuild I'm sure. 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcraft-4300-4-Barrel-Carburetor-Carb-D2ZF-BB-1972-Ford-Mustang-Torino-351-CJ-/172586829877?hash=item282efa0835:g:OL0AAOSw2gxY0SY8&vxp=mtr


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I would say no. That number is for a 4300D, which is the spreadbore carburetor and requires a matching manifold. Unless you want original for some reason, I would steer away from the 4300 series carburetor. They aren't that easy to tune and maintain. I thought you were looking at the Summit carburetor?

 

http://www.mustangtek.com/4300/4300.html


 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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I would say no. That number is for a 4300D, which is the spreadbore carburetor and requires a matching manifold. Unless you want original for some reason, I would steer away from the 4300 series carburetor. They aren't that easy to tune and maintain. I thought you were looking at the Summit carburetor?

 

http://www.mustangtek.com/4300/4300.html

 

I guess I'd say I want to keep an "original" look but at the same time improve performance and drivability by upgrading components you cannot see.  To be honest I've always been on the fence regarding original vs upgrading to newer components but so far everything has been pretty stock on this car (until this carburetor).  As I continue with the disassembly that will help me determine which direction to go.


Stang Life!

 

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Just to clarify the engine is a 72 Q code correct? If yes, there would need to be an adaptor plate between the intake and the carb. Or, a PO swapped a 70-71 intake onto the car or perhaps a complete 70-71 engine. Chuck

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It appears that is a replacement carburetor that somebody used to replace the 4300:

 

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetors/specialty_carburetors/emissions_replacement/parts/0-80453


 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Just to clarify the engine is a 72 Q code correct? If yes, there would need to be an adaptor plate between the intake and the carb. Or, a PO swapped a 70-71 intake onto the car or perhaps a complete 70-71 engine. Chuck

 

Yes, it's a 72 Q code with what looks to be a replacement after market carb.  has the correct intake part number...

 

Intake_Mani.jpg


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Where do you live in FL?


Mike

__________________________________

Black 1985 GT

Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1

Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's

Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 390ci, Tremec 3550, FiTech EFI

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Where do you live in FL?

 

I'm in North Port.  How far is that from you?


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Where do you live in FL?

 

I'm in North Port.  How far is that from you?

 

About 10 hours.  FL is bigger than people think.


Mike

__________________________________

Black 1985 GT

Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1

Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's

Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 390ci, Tremec 3550, FiTech EFI

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There is nothing wrong with 4300s and 4300D.

 

I run a pair of 4300s on a 351C tunnel ram and the "D" on my other 351C

 

Pulls to 6,500 no problem

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Henry,

  How about sharing the secrets to making 4300Ds start, idle, and transition to WOT properly. Chuck

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I have the original 4300D that comes with a Q code but getting a replacement is a tough thing , good Luck with that my friend.


73 Stang totally restored with a 351 cleveland cobra jet Q code motor ,Owned car since new. 

IMG_0291.jpg

 

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I have the original 4300D that comes with a Q code but getting a replacement is a tough thing , good Luck with that my friend.

 

I can find the D2ZF-BB on Ebay but not the D2ZF-DA that's specific to a CA car.  I am hesitant to even buy the original Motorcraft 4300 carb though based on what I'm hearing on this site.

 

Do you drive your car a lot?  Do you have issues with the original carb?


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I had one on my Q code too. It was a piece of crap in my opinion. One day the secondaries stuck wide open & flooded the top of my engine. Lucky it didn't start on fire. Right after that I put a Holley on & it runs better than ever with no more problems.


John - 72 Q Code

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Just replace the intake with an aluminium dual plane like an Edelbrock performer or bit more dollars a Blue Tunder or if you want to keep the stock look with the best dual plane on the market, the Australian made Scott Cook dual plane. A 750 vac secondary either Holley or my preference the Quick Fuel Slayer series. 4V heads love CFM so doing these quick and easy mods your engine will thank you.

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Henry,

  How about sharing the secrets to making 4300Ds start, idle, and transition to WOT properly. Chuck

 

Lol, that's why I'm glad mine came in a box with the car, even the 600  Edelbrock was an improvement that was on it until it failed. 750 vac Holley on it for many trouble free years. BTW Chuck from what I've read and heard these carbs weren't good at doing those things when new, so with 40+ years since maybe somebody solved the problem.

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4300 was not a performance carb I stick with the holley. My 4300 just hangs on the garage wall for years because it a emission carb only. Holley can be fine tuned, the 4300 not so much.

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Yes, the Holley would be a good choice or a quick fuel like previously stated. If you do not have access to a 24 hr 4300 tuner / mechanic and a reliable road service stay away from the 4300's. Better yet, buy the best one you can afford, open the box, check out it's beauty and put it on a shelf in the garage, not on the car !!!

Thanks, Jay

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If I can get a beautifully restored 4300D carburetor for my car...should I?? I haven't even gotten to the engine part of my build and that's probably still a ways off. Currently there is some old 4300D replacement Holley carb on my 351C 4v. Someone once said buy the nicest 4300D you can afford and put it in a box on your shelf... LOL

 

So if I really want to spend $600-$800 on a carb which should I be considering? As I've said in the past I kind of want my engine to have a stock appearance but I would definitely love to have more than 266hp. :)


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Or should I be going with something like this?  

 

Holly Carb


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Assuming your 72 has the stock spread bore intake, it's either the 4300D or nothing. The ford carb had a unique pattern that no one made an aftermarket carb for.

 

Your best option is to swap the intake to either an early M-code (70-71) iron intake, or one of the aftermarket aluminum options. This will allow you to run pretty much any square bore 4V carb out there. The iron intake with a thick gasket will fit a 750 cfm Holley vacuum secondary with no issues. It works pretty well to be honest.

 

FWIW, and this is just my opinion, the carb you linked is not a good value. A standard 750VS is perfectly fine for street use, the one below is the shiny silver with an electric choke for $200 less.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-0-80508sa/overview/

 

Couple it with the iron 4V or this intake

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2665


[button=https://www.7173mustangs.com/forumdisplay.php?fid=41&filterxt_uid=34]Visit My Garage[/button]

 

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Assuming your 72 has the stock spread bore intake, it's either the 4300D or nothing. The ford carb had a unique pattern that no one made an aftermarket carb for.

 

Your best option is to swap the intake to either an early M-code (70-71) iron intake, or one of the aftermarket aluminum options. This will allow you to run pretty much any square bore 4V carb out there. The iron intake with a thick gasket will fit a 750 cfm Holley vacuum secondary with no issues. It works pretty well to be honest.

 

FWIW, and this is just my opinion, the carb you linked is not a good value. A standard 750VS is perfectly fine for street use, the one below is the shiny silver with an electric choke for $200 less.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-0-80508sa/overview/

 

Couple it with the iron 4V or this intake

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2665

 

So probably best to go that route rather than spending over $600 just for a rebuilt original 4300d right?  I haven't heard many good things about running the 4300D's.


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