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Oil pump shaft fell into oil pan,, well fudge


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So I'm putting the new distributor in my 73 mustang with  a 1970 429 in it,,, old distributor has not been out in 20 years. I'm lifting the old one out real careful and I hear a clank sound,,,, the shaft has disappeared cant see it from the top and cant find it in the oil pan with a copper wire through the drain hole.  

 

What are the odds that I can drop the pan, retrieve the shaft, and replace the pan without having to remove or jack up the motor with a cherry picker. :huh:

 

I have about an inch between the bottom of the pan and the frame cross member but I should be able to get the front of the pan down enough to get my hand in there.

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getting it out is a pain.. putting it back is a real pain.. how do u plan on putting it back with the retainer collar on ?? someone who did the engine put u in a bad spot.. if u just drop it in u have a great way of dropping it again if u pull the dizzy out.. ouch

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No. The engine mounts will need to be disconnected and the engine has to go up about 2 inches to get the pan off. I do not think you could get enough room to snake it out without doing so. and getting it back in would be problematic at best.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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Yes, you will have to unbolt the mount(s) and raise the engine to slip the pan out. I've done it before, it's not as difficult as it seems, mostly time consuming, but not really difficult. As long as you're there, you might consider getting a heavy duty oil pump drive shaft, but at very least get a new one even if it is a stock replacement. Unbolting the oil pump is no problem, however, putting the new drive shaft up and getting the oil pump back up in position can be frustrating because of trying to do three things at once. To make this easier, put  an oil pan bolt screwed loosely back into the pan rail close to where the pump drive shaft is, put the drive shaft up engaged with the distributor, then take a rubber band and wrap it around the shaft and pan bolt tight enough to hold the shaft in place. Now you can put the pump up to it holding the pump with one hand and installing the pump bolt with the other hand. Once the pump is bolted in place, grab the rubber band with one hand to keep it from disappearing and snip it with some dykes with the other...there, done!

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Good method, Spike, I'll try to remember that one.

 

Don't forget to put that retaining washer on the upper end of the shaft, so the next time you pull the distributor the shaft comes with it again. Some people seem to think it's an oil slinger and belongs next to the pump. Or, they don't know what it's for and just leave it off.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Ahhh. The snowball effect.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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What would happen if it was just left in the pan and get another shaft?

73 Grande

351C 2v

Now 4v Carb/Cam/headers/T5

 

Gasoline is for washing parts.

Alcohol is for drinking.

Nitomethane is for racing!

 

 

Work in Progress photos here:

Last Update: 4/23/16

 

http://s1270.photobucket.com/user/therocket366/library/?sort=3&page=1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Maybe nothing for a while, but sooner or later you would hit a bad bump and it might bounce enough to be hit by a crank weight, then it would probably get throw into a piston from the bottom, punch through the block or pan, destroy the engine, cause you to wreck the car, you would break your leg, your wife would have an affair, little bobby it turns out is the postman's baby, you lose your mind. . . . Would you want to risk it?

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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Maybe nothing for a while, but sooner or later you would hit a bad bump and it might bounce enough to be hit by a crank weight, then it would probably get throw into a piston from the bottom, punch through the block or pan, destroy the engine, cause you to wreck the car, you would break your leg, your wife would have an affair, little bobby it turns out is the postman's baby, you lose your mind. . . .  Would you want to risk it?

 

now that's funny.

 

On my 351C i was able to lower the pan enough to fish the shaft out with magnet.  I oiled it up and slid it into a piece of hose and then lowered it into place.  Once in place I took a screw driver and pushed it into the those and pushed off the shaft.  Probably more luck than anything.

'Mike'

73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

 

Pics of modifications included in: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1973-convertible--3335]My Garage[/button]

 

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Maybe nothing for a while, but sooner or later you would hit a bad bump and it might bounce enough to be hit by a crank weight, then it would probably get throw into a piston from the bottom, punch through the block or pan, destroy the engine, cause you to wreck the car, you would break your leg, your wife would have an affair, little bobby it turns out is the postman's baby, you lose your mind. . . .  Would you want to risk it?

 

Ditto

 

mike

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I figured the first speed bump would take the engine out.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Haaaa Thats it that sucker is coming out!!!!

 

I will ease into the situation this weekend need to order a new gasket,,, anybody use one of these? I figured the 1 piece design could be easier to deal with in my situation

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-41005

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Mmmm I had not thought about that,,

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  • 4 months later...

Jeff73Mach1Maybe nothing for a while, but sooner or later you would hit a bad bump and it might bounce enough to be hit by a crank weight, then it would probably get throw into a piston from the bottom, punch through the block or pan, destroy the engine, cause you to wreck the car, you would break your leg, your wife would have an affair, little bobby it turns out is the postman's baby, you lose your mind. . . .  Would you want to risk it?

 

Jeff, I think you forgot  ...  " ASK ME HOW I KNOW " :whistling:  :chin: :D :D :D

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Been awile but it ended up being a lot of work but not that bad. Gasket worked well, had to jack up the motor to get it off. Put in a new shaft and the retainer ring is in place and nice and tight. I used a set of studs and they made it even easier

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