Jump to content
Don C

Underbody Dimensions

Recommended Posts

I decided to post a couple of underbody dimension diagrams here so they would be easier to find. I know that some of them have been posted before, but are buried in hard to find threads.

 

The first one is for 1971s, and is from my 1971 Shop Manual (figure 12), the other one (figure 13) is from a 1972 or 1973, maybe someone can verify from their shop manuals. Most of the dimensions are the same, some are just a few hundredths different, some are more. One I noticed is the rear of the 71s is shown about 2.5 inches lower while the front is about 1/2" higher.

 

Underbody dimensions-2.pdf

 

EDIT, added images

 

Underbody-dimensions-2-1.jpg

 

Underbody-dimensions-2-2.jpg

  • Like 2

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I decided to post a couple of underbody dimension diagrams here so they would be easier to find. I know that some of them have been posted before, but are buried in hard to find threads.

 

The first one is for 1971s, and is from my 1971 Shop Manual (figure 12), the other one (figure 13) is from a 1972 or 1973, maybe someone can verify from their shop manuals. Most of the dimensions are the same, some are just a few hundredths different, some are more. One I noticed is the rear of the 71s is shown about 2.5 inches lower while the front is about 1/2" higher.

 

 

 

Thanks Don!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I completed the replacement and it was a relative breeze. except for the cleanup prior to installing the new one. I used a sawzall with long metal cutting blades and removed the crossmember leaving the welded flanges only. Then i used a combination of sawzall, grinders, chisels and brute force to remove the remaining flanges. the dynacorn cross member went in perfectly. After drilling holes for welding, simulating the factory spot welds, I used .30 wire, played with my welder settings and went for it. Looks great! and bummer for the next guy who needs to remove this thing. I took many measurements before and after removing the original and I had no deflection at all after I cut it out. The car was level, with the engine in it and on jack stands. Thanks for your advice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's great! You went at it the right way. :bravo:


 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I completed the replacement and it was a relative breeze. except for the cleanup prior to installing the new one. I used a sawzall with long metal cutting blades and removed the crossmember leaving the welded flanges only. Then i used a combination of sawzall, grinders, chisels and brute force to remove the remaining flanges. the dynacorn cross member went in perfectly. After drilling holes for welding, simulating the factory spot welds, I used .30 wire, played with my welder settings and went for it. Looks great! and bummer for the next guy who needs to remove this thing. I took many measurements before and after removing the original and I had no deflection at all after I cut it out. The car was level, with the engine in it and on jack stands. Thanks for your advice.

 

 

How did you get your upper dimensions correct for your hood opening?  Measurements across the aprons, mainly across at the radiator support.


1969 Acapulco Blue Convertible

     408C CJ, 5 Spd

1973 Lava Red Mach 1

     Being restored - 351C, 4V, AOD

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I took some measurements for a member once under the hood for inner fenders and radiator support. I have attached again. These are not Ford numbers just some reference dims. from a pretty rust free California car.

I did search the net for more dimensions but there does not seem to be any out there.

Every stamping in the unibody has locator holes, tooling holes, that were used to stamp the parts, check the parts and also used in the weld fixtures to locate the parts. A lot of time you can do cross measurement to see if something is square from one tooling hole to another.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for adding this, David.


 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I need some help with these measurements and am a complete novice.

I have to replace the front  chassis cross member and work out why one inner RH  wheel is almost touching the rear bump stop but the left inner wheel is a good 1 inch away from the LH rear bump stop.

Can these measurements be taken without stripping down the car?  IE : removal of engine, trans and rear Axle?

My car has been in accident at some point in its life and I can tell the chassis was never properly repaired or aligned!

RHS REAR WHEEL

48832404953_62e7d6ab03_c.jpg

 

LHS REAR WHEEL

48832771656_dbe9bc1098_c.jpg

 

FRONT CROSS MEMBER!

48832767436_26cc935449_c.jpg

48832766171_3ef3ff587a_c.jpg

48832765761_53f9bc20d4_c.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

.Don that is not the dimensions I was talking about. The assembly line drawings have the suspension and everything in them. The give dimension from axle to frame if I remember right in the assembly line info. The ones you posted are what you should have before you start to replace panels. I always say first place you need to go is frame shop they bend so easily. 

 


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

David, you posted this one a while back

73chassisheight.pdf

 

@92GTS-R, the rear can be caused by many things. A failed bushing, bent shackle, misaligned axle on the springs, stuff like that. It could also be production line tolerances. 

If you want to be absolutely certain the chassis is square before you replace the front crossmember, have it put on a frame machine and square the chassis. 

 


[button=https://www.7173mustangs.com/forumdisplay.php?fid=41&filterxt_uid=34]Visit My Garage[/button]

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

About Us

7173Mustangs.com is a community forum designed especially for fans and owners of the 1971, 1972 and 1973 Ford Mustang! We are not affiliated with Ford Motor Company in any way.

Site Navigation

Forums
Gallery
7173 Wiki
Blogs
Clubs

7173logo_small.png

Site Info

Founded:
July 2010

By:
Webfinity Design

From:
Latrobe, PA

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help customize your user experience here on 7173Mustangs.com. You can adjust your cookie settings to your preferences if you like, otherwise we'll assume that you're okay to continue.