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quarter skin replacement advise


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I think it is great that you are jumping in and doing it yourself.

One thing I hope you did is remove all the black e-coat that comes on the repo panels. It looked like Kevin did which I recommend to everyone.

The reason is. My friend that has been doing ground up restorations since the 80's was showing me at his shop the other day. He had a guy bring his great looking car in for him to look at the paint. It had been restored by another shop about 5 years ago. There were quite a few little bumps in the paint that was once perfect. They took a razor blade and cut the paint and it just peeled off and was rusty under it.

When the repo panels are stamped sometimes they sit around and start to get surface rust on them. Then they go to e-coat and evidently their phosphate process is not very good.

My friend showed me on a hood he was working for a Camaro restore. The black e-coat was smooth and looked perfect. I stayed for a couple hours while he sanded it off with a DA and I think 80 grit paper and there were several places that had rust under the e-coat just like he said it would be. He has always sanded the e-coat off and cleaned the rust off then phosphate then epoxy primer and then polyester on all his restorations and has never had a paint job fail or return except for accident damage.

If you want the paint to last do remove the black e-coat that Taiwan puts on.

Also if you have the panels soda blasted the cleaning process for that is very intense to say the least. If you do not do it right it causes severe issues with the paint. The plastic media blast is a better solution but will not remove rust. Never sand blast exterior panels unless you want a wavy body that is trash.

Glad to see you are learning new skills and hey you got the wife in there also.

Great,

David

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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thats great advice. I actually ended up applying stripper the the entire thing on one side jist to look for that. I didn't find rust on the panels, but I did on the hood underneath previous paint

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It looks like I will be doing the same thing. When I got my Q 72 vert into work area and got all the stuff out of the trunk I discovered that the PO had done a lap joint on the LH quarter so off it comes. I am also concerned about the RH and will sand all the primer off to inspect his work closer. The floors are coming back out also. I cannot believe anyone can do such crappy work and cover it up with bondo and seam sealer.

David

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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  • 4 months later...

sorry this took so long. had to transfer a lot of pictures from my phone to laptop.

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  • 1 year later...

I would butt weld it. It's a little harder than overlap but when done right makes for an invisible repair. I just did this on the 71 I'm working on. First trace with a sharpie how high your new panel is up the car. Then cut with cutoff wheel few inches below your line. Do this all way around. Fit the panel again and get it where you want it and hold it in place with self tapping screws. I then use a air powered body saw and cut through both panels at same time. This will make for a perfect seam. Remove panel and punch holes at front, back, and wheel well. Grind and prep for weld. Make sure you move around a lot so you don't warp the panel. I even keep a wet rag with me to cool the welds. Bounce around a lot or you will warp it. Same thing when grinding. Move around and don't overheat the metal. That's biggest mistake most people make. I even climbed inside of the trunk and ground the weld down on inside and you would never know that quarter panel was replaced. Let me know if you have any questions. There's lots of ways to do this, but this way works for me. You can also check out my build thread for all the pics of replacing the panels. https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-new-project-for-this-winter-71-mach-1

 

Kevin, 

 

When you align the panel to cut both simultaneously, do you offset the panel downward slightly to compensate for the width of material that gets cut away (kerf)?  

 

I'm finally working on the sheet metal on my mustang and find your post, and those like it, very very helpful.

 

Thanks,

BT

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I would butt weld it. It's a little harder than overlap but when done right makes for an invisible repair. I just did this on the 71 I'm working on. First trace with a sharpie how high your new panel is up the car. Then cut with cutoff wheel few inches below your line. Do this all way around. Fit the panel again and get it where you want it and hold it in place with self tapping screws. I then use a air powered body saw and cut through both panels at same time. This will make for a perfect seam. Remove panel and punch holes at front, back, and wheel well. Grind and prep for weld. Make sure you move around a lot so you don't warp the panel. I even keep a wet rag with me to cool the welds. Bounce around a lot or you will warp it. Same thing when grinding. Move around and don't overheat the metal. That's biggest mistake most people make. I even climbed inside of the trunk and ground the weld down on inside and you would never know that quarter panel was replaced. Let me know if you have any questions. There's lots of ways to do this, but this way works for me. You can also check out my build thread for all the pics of replacing the panels. https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-new-project-for-this-winter-71-mach-1

 

Kevin, 

 

When you align the panel to cut both simultaneously, do you offset the panel downward slightly to compensate for the width of material that gets cut away (kerf)?  

 

I'm finally working on the sheet metal on my mustang and find your post, and those like it, very very helpful.

 

Thanks,

BT

 

 

I personally do not offset the panel. I put it right where I want it, zip screw it in place, then cut both panels. I would strongly suggest getting a good body saw for this because it takes a lot less material away than a grinder with a wiz wheel does. I also like to have a slight gap in my panels prior to welding. If the panel is super tight then sometimes you wont get full penetration and the weld just sits on top of the 2 panels. Then when you grind it flush, most of your weld is removed, making the joint weak. If you have a slight gap, you are guaranteed to fill the gap with weld and fully weld the 2 panels together. Then when you grind the weld flush, most of your weld stays between the 2 panels and makes it stronger. The body saw blade is just about a perfect gap in my opinion, and it leaves a little room to adjust the panel slightly if needed. If you have trouble with burning through the edges of the panel, try using a piece of copper for a backing plate. the weld wont stick to it and it will help pull some of the excess heat from the weld and keep you from burning through the edges. You can have a buddy in the trunk on the backside of the quarter panel holding the copper and moving with you as you weld. There's a ton of ways to do this stuff, but this is what works for me. Don't forget to move around alot and cool your welds with a damp rag as you go. Let me know if i can be any more help!

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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