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Holley Sniper EFI and RobbMC Surge Tank, 351c and FMX


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351Cs have a dry manifold, no coolant in them. Replace your stock coolant temperature gauge sensor with the sensor for the EFI and move the temperature gauge sensor to the plug on the side of the water pump.

 

What are the benefits of putting the EFI sensor at the temp gauge spot? Will it make much of difference if I just put the EFI sensor at the water pump spot?

 

-Edit-

 

Looking at it now, I don't think my temp gauge sensor will fit in the water pump plug as it will hit the alternator.. Any suggestions? Should I just put the EFI sensor there?

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Where is you sensor located now? Kuz, I actually got the inverse question :)

I have the water temp next to pump as far as I can remember.

And dunno where else to relocate it...

 

For your hood clearance no prob, there is plenty of room, for me its just an arbitrary rotation issue that mismatches the new unit

top surface vs the old carb. (lines rotated not shown in pict) I saw since i posted I should be able get more than 1 cm correction without much efforts.

and keep the spacer. If I need more, I'll need to make/test with less high spacers. Also the unit is not bolted yet, so there are

2 gaskets that will be reduces in height and give me another 1 or 2 mm.

 

As a side note, there is another high flow air filter that you can't see in the ram air. once hood is closed, it lays on top filter.

The diff with original one is that I will see the sniper every time I'll open the hood :D

Should be enuff to make me forget my good old dual feed line with pressure gauge that has been on this engine forever. Loved that thing...

73 modified Grande 351C. Almost done. 

71 429CJ. In progress

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Where is you sensor located now? Kuz, I actually got the inverse question :)

I have the water temp next to pump as far as I can remember.

And dunno where else to relocate it...

 

For your hood clearance no prob, there is plenty of room, for me its just an arbitrary rotation issue that mismatches the new unit

top surface vs the old carb. (lines rotated not shown in pict) I saw since i posted I should be able get more than 1 cm correction without much efforts.

and keep the spacer. If I need more, I'll need to make/test with less high spacers. Also the unit is not bolted yet, so there are

2 gaskets that will be reduces in height and give me another 1 or 2 mm.

 

As a side note, there is another high flow air filter that you can't see in the ram air. once hood is closed, it lays on top filter.

The diff with original one is that I will see the sniper every time I'll open the hood :D

Should be enuff to make me forget my good old dual feed line with pressure gauge that has been on this engine forever. Loved that thing...

 

 

Not sure what I was thinking.... Was looking at the oil pressure sensor lol. Here's a picture of the temp sensor circled in green and the second spot in red. 

 

IMG_6619.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

So guess I will, do as Don suggested and put the EFI sensor into the block and the temp into the water pump? And just making sure these holes are 3/8"s correct?

 

Thanks,

 

Adam

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Where is you sensor located now? Kuz, I actually got the inverse question :)

I have the water temp next to pump as far as I can remember.

And dunno where else to relocate it...

 

For your hood clearance no prob, there is plenty of room, for me its just an arbitrary rotation issue that mismatches the new unit

top surface vs the old carb. (lines rotated not shown in pict) I saw since i posted I should be able get more than 1 cm correction without much efforts.

and keep the spacer. If I need more, I'll need to make/test with less high spacers. Also the unit is not bolted yet, so there are

2 gaskets that will be reduces in height and give me another 1 or 2 mm.

 

As a side note, there is another high flow air filter that you can't see in the ram air. once hood is closed, it lays on top filter.

The diff with original one is that I will see the sniper every time I'll open the hood :D

Should be enuff to make me forget my good old dual feed line with pressure gauge that has been on this engine forever. Loved that thing...

 

 

Not sure what I was thinking.... Was looking at the oil pressure sensor lol. Here's a picture of the temp sensor circled in green and the second spot in red. 

 

IMG_6619.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

So guess I will, do as Don suggested and put the EFI sensor into the block and the temp into the water pump? And just making sure these holes are 3/8"s correct?

 

Thanks,

 

Adam

 

It will fit where that plug is no problem. The hole was actually for a temp controlled vac switch. My car has idiot lights but I added gauges and wanted to keep the lights functional so I moved my light sensor to that hole and installed my gauge sensor in the original spot.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Yes, they are both 3/8" pipe threads.

 

To answer the questions about putting the EFI sensor in the water pump, the temperature there is a little lower than the one into the block, and it will be more important to have the EFI computer read the correct temperature than to have the correct temperature sent to the gauge, which is a guesstimate anyway.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Where is you sensor located now? Kuz, I actually got the inverse question :)

I have the water temp next to pump as far as I can remember.

And dunno where else to relocate it...

 

For your hood clearance no prob, there is plenty of room, for me its just an arbitrary rotation issue that mismatches the new unit

top surface vs the old carb. (lines rotated not shown in pict) I saw since i posted I should be able get more than 1 cm correction without much efforts.

and keep the spacer. If I need more, I'll need to make/test with less high spacers. Also the unit is not bolted yet, so there are

2 gaskets that will be reduces in height and give me another 1 or 2 mm.

 

As a side note, there is another high flow air filter that you can't see in the ram air. once hood is closed, it lays on top filter.

The diff with original one is that I will see the sniper every time I'll open the hood :D

Should be enuff to make me forget my good old dual feed line with pressure gauge that has been on this engine forever. Loved that thing...

 

 

Not sure what I was thinking.... Was looking at the oil pressure sensor lol. Here's a picture of the temp sensor circled in green and the second spot in red. 

 

IMG_6619.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

So guess I will, do as Don suggested and put the EFI sensor into the block and the temp into the water pump? And just making sure these holes are 3/8"s correct?

 

Thanks,

 

Adam

 

It will fit where that plug is no problem. The hole was actually for a temp controlled vac switch. My car has idiot lights but I added gauges and wanted to keep the lights functional so I moved my light sensor to that hole and installed my gauge sensor in the original spot.

 

Oh awesome good to know! Any idea how to get the plug out? I'm assuming I need to go buy a hex driver or something?

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Yes, they are both 3/8" pipe threads.

 

To answer the questions about putting the EFI sensor in the water pump, the temperature there is a little lower than the one into the block, and it will be more important to have the EFI computer read the correct temperature than to have the correct temperature sent to the gauge, which is a guesstimate anyway.

 

Great thank you for you help Don! Will put the EFI sensor into the block, and the temp gauge sensor into the water pump when I finally get the plug out

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Yes, they are both 3/8" pipe threads.

 

To answer the questions about putting the EFI sensor in the water pump, the temperature there is a little lower than the one into the block, and it will be more important to have the EFI computer read the correct temperature than to have the correct temperature sent to the gauge, which is a guesstimate anyway.

 

Great thank you for you help Don! Will put the EFI sensor into the block, and the temp gauge sensor into the water pump when I finally get the plug out

 

That is the way I have mine set up, the temp gauge in the car will read a little lower than before but it's its more important for the ECU to get an accurate engine temp reading.

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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Yes, they are both 3/8" pipe threads.

 

To answer the questions about putting the EFI sensor in the water pump, the temperature there is a little lower than the one into the block, and it will be more important to have the EFI computer read the correct temperature than to have the correct temperature sent to the gauge, which is a guesstimate anyway.

 

Great thank you for you help Don! Will put the EFI sensor into the block, and the temp gauge sensor into the water pump when I finally get the plug out

 

That is the way I have mine set up, the temp gauge in the car will read a little lower than before but it's its more important for the ECU to get an accurate engine temp reading.

 

Yea that makes sense, I will be taking that route as well!

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Just about finished with mounting the PowerSurge (PS). I modified the old charcoal canister housing to hold the PS in place, then drilled a whole through the middle mounting assembly and put a peg there to keep the PS at the desired height away from the headers (this description is confusing, but I will release a video of it later on my YouTube channel). Anyways, it is looking good, plan on wrapping the PS with some heat tape and hopefully it will stay cool :)

 

 

IMG_6720.jpg

 

IMG_6727.jpg

 

PS: Ignore the shotty wiring in the second picture, just testing things out it is not permanent :)

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First day install for me. Whole day for little..

As I clean, refresh paint where needed while busy, (after all its no rush).

 

So I've nicely swapped the ford water temp from block to pomp and installed unit sensor. Removed

all the brackets, the alternator, as I wanted be sure I wouldn't f.. the water pomp plug. As I saw it was

claiming his seat firmly from a first try with very low grip, I've opted for the longer safer way.

Once the proper space and tool were in place it came as butter. Cleaned up, repainted a bit the block and installed the sensor.

I did not regret the extra work as all is now looking fresh.

 

The main unit installed too, tho spend ages to find 4 stainless steel rings I knew I had somewhere to nicely secure

it on my previous studs, as the provided ones are of a lower quality.

 

Next was to set the throttle cable: bam! Not in line with unit, looked in kit and the brackets they provide are for any cars but Mustangs.

Pissed at Holley for not providing more suitable material, pushed on tomorrow's todo to fabricate/weld something that is in line.

 

Next as I was busy behind the unit: the Lokar cable for the kick down. As I need also to do the O2 sensor, exhaust needed go out.

so I could access the transmission. (no bridge to put the car on, its a jack stands story in a small garage).

Picked a location + angle for the o2 sensor while busy.

Removed the clip for the long Kick down bracket and tried install that dam cable... and then I was pissed at Lokar

because I dunno from which universe the FMX they show on their doc is, but thats not mine for sure. No way to install that dam cable.

They show this nice with nothing on side trans and say, remove first pan bolt and use it for the bracket, the cable goes where the clip

was... yeah right: Lokar ffs, your company does this things for years,so first why the hell the diameter of the hole is not correct.

K, cable off, measure, drill the hole a bit to right size, set to clip back and then...

second the way they describe the install can never be in line, as the level is like 7 cm away from pan: bam, another welding bracket

story added for tomorrow. Removed cable again, and swore a few times more at Lokar and went on...

 

As I've ordered a bung to weld the sensor vs use the clamped prone to leaks plate they provide, I welded the baby.

Taped and pressurised with compressed air and inspected with bright light. No leak detected so far I could test. Should be ok.

During welding of the bung, used a tip I've seen online: placed an old spark plug in bung. It indeed absorbed the heat nicely and once

the exhaust was set back on, the sensor went in with zero efforts, bung had kept a perfect circular shape.

 

And then the day was over, was time to eat and shower :) Realised I've forgot took picts too.

 

Did you have similar issues for the brackets?

 

Tomorrow I plan swear again at Holley and even more at Lokar till the work on the brackets is done. And then I might look at tank to

replace the vent cap by the sending unit I finally received yesterday... Was planning doing the wiring first, but nice weather is announced

so it will be like a day at the beach :)

73 modified Grande 351C. Almost done. 

71 429CJ. In progress

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I don't have Lokar cables on my car, but every time I've installed a different manifold or carburetor I've had to fabricate brackets. As far as I'm concerned that's just part of the "joy". Because the Lokar kickdown has to work as a pull and not as a push, as the OEM rod does, nothing that came with it or you already have will work.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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First day install for me. Whole day for little..

As I clean, refresh paint where needed while busy, (after all its no rush).

 

So I've nicely swapped the ford water temp from block to pomp and installed unit sensor. Removed

all the brackets, the alternator, as I wanted be sure I wouldn't f.. the water pomp plug. As I saw it was

claiming his seat firmly from a first try with very low grip, I've opted for the longer safer way.

Once the proper space and tool were in place it came as butter. Cleaned up, repainted a bit the block and installed the sensor.

I did not regret the extra work as all is now looking fresh.

 

The main unit installed too, tho spend ages to find 4 stainless steel rings I knew I had somewhere to nicely secure

it on my previous studs, as the provided ones are of a lower quality.

 

Next was to set the throttle cable: bam! Not in line with unit, looked in kit and the brackets they provide are for any cars but Mustangs.

Pissed at Holley for not providing more suitable material, pushed on tomorrow's todo to fabricate/weld something that is in line.

 

Next as I was busy behind the unit: the Lokar cable for the kick down. As I need also to do the O2 sensor, exhaust needed go out.

so I could access the transmission. (no bridge to put the car on, its a jack stands story in a small garage).

Picked a location + angle for the o2 sensor while busy.

Removed the clip for the long Kick down bracket and tried install that dam cable...  and then I was pissed at Lokar

because I dunno from which universe the FMX they show on their doc is, but thats not mine for sure. No way to install that dam cable.

They show this nice with nothing on side trans and say, remove first pan bolt and use it for the bracket, the cable goes where the clip

was... yeah right: Lokar ffs, your company does this things for years,so first why the hell the diameter of the hole is not correct.

K, cable off, measure, drill the hole a bit to right size, set to clip back and then...

second the way they describe the install can never be in line, as the level is like 7 cm away from pan: bam, another welding bracket

story added for tomorrow. Removed cable again, and swore a few times more at Lokar and went on...

 

As I've ordered a bung to weld the sensor vs use the clamped prone to leaks plate they provide, I welded the baby.

Taped and pressurised with compressed air and inspected with bright light. No leak detected so far I could test. Should be ok.

During welding of the bung, used a tip I've seen online: placed an old spark plug in bung. It indeed absorbed the heat nicely and once

the exhaust was set back on, the sensor went in with zero efforts, bung had kept a perfect circular shape.

 

And then the day was over, was time to eat and shower :) Realised I've forgot took picts too.

 

Did you have similar issues for the brackets?

 

Tomorrow I plan swear again at Holley and even more at Lokar till the work on the brackets is done. And then I might look at tank to

replace the vent cap by the sending unit I finally received yesterday... Was planning doing the wiring first, but nice weather is announced

so it will be like a day at the beach :)

 

I also bought the FMX kickdown cable kit from Lokar, but haven't attempted it yet... Another thread on the site has some good info and pics from RCH71: https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-fmx-kickdown-rod?page=2

 

I will follow what he did, but if I'm having a hard time I might just resort to manually downshifting for awhile..

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@Don C,

I have no prob making parts, so in that regard, I perfectly accept and enjoy.

 

What does piss me off is that a reknown specialist that does practically only cables, comes

with such ridiculous doc that leads to impropper install. Even more ridiculous is the provided bracket that fits zero fmx trans for any application.

If you look at the post Adam provided in his reply, which is the result of the install description, even a 5 years old sees the cable is not in line, too much cable exposed that will touch parts on tension, and most of all, its never gonna work properly as cable length never match the carb lever length to actuate. The center of the level rotation and end of lever are practically in line, so you get nothing and once there's loads of pull force, you got a some rotation and hope its enuff. Practically zero graduation unlike with the ford rod. I understand now why so many posted 'this lokar bitch is really hard to finetune'. So yeah, sorry to say, but to me, this is something Lokar could have fixed years ago. Even beter, I would preffered they provided some application drawings that are correct and say 'have fun making the bracket' vs claiming this is ok. Kus its ridiculously not ok.

 

K, nuff bitchin, I got some brackets to build :)

73 modified Grande 351C. Almost done. 

71 429CJ. In progress

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k, so today went ok, tho, again, loads of time goes to small things

 

tempsensors.jpg

First a pict of the tmp sensor + original relocated to pump. (will change that red colour wire later on)

 

sendingunit.jpg

Prepared the sending unit for the tank. Felt bit crazy to semi destroy a good working unit that

costed in total $170 thanks to transport and the great dutch taxes. Lets try to quickly forget that one :)

As Don C suggested, as these are from MustangOhio and indeed they looked be of good quality, if you do the swap.

Replace the old sending unit with this new one and apply the punishment to the old one. Mine was changed last year,

so I won't touch it.

 

I've kept the filter for now, No sure I need to, or if that really matters. I'll see during install.

 

bracket1.jpg

As announced, it was "bracket day" today and started with doing a temporary one, as I've not decided yet where to actually place the

kick down on uint, I've made this one so its inline and I can come back to that Lokar thingy later on. (gonna CAD that thing to have the best possible location and length)

@Adam, on my setup, using the original bracket, the throttle cable needs an offset of 3.5 cm. The bracket here reproduces the front face of the ford bracket.

I'll provide later on detailed figure once I'll do the final one with the KD and properly welded. I simply didn't settle yet on wether the cable should be below or next to it.

 

bracket2.jpg

Then came an unexpected new bracket in sight. The unit connector for the positive, negative that needs be directly connected to the battery and

the positive wire for the fuel pomp has two electrical components that need be screwed somewhere. As I do not want drill the firewall unless I have no choice,

I've reused one of the stud that hold the air system inside the car. So made a robust bracket that will hold both units and keep them nicely aligned on firewall.

 

bracket22.jpg

Because my battery is located in trunk and need go thru the car, location's ideal as its next to the grommet. Once in place, aside being firmly in place and

away from block heat, they almost gone for the eye. Once, i'll have properly routed and secured the wires inside, i'll hide/protect them better.

 

pumpfeed.jpg

And then it was time for some gym! Somehow a simple thing like passing wires thru a grommet that leads high into the dashboard always

let you discover some unknown muscles which I'm sure I'll remember even more tomorrow morning :)

Still need to define where i'm gonna pass the wire + connector of the monitor. Prolly thru the airco grommet on passenger side.

 

All with all, nothing but many details to do here and there. Next session, more picts!

73 modified Grande 351C. Almost done. 

71 429CJ. In progress

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k, so today went ok, tho, again, loads of time goes to small things

 

tempsensors.jpg

First a pict of the tmp sensor + original relocated to pump. (will change that red colour wire later on)

 

sendingunit.jpg

Prepared the sending unit for the tank. Felt bit crazy to semi destroy a good working unit that

costed in total $170 thanks to transport and the great dutch taxes. Lets try to quickly forget that one :)

As Don C suggested, as these are from MustangOhio and indeed they looked be of good quality, if you do the swap.

Replace the old sending unit with this new one and apply the punishment to the old one. Mine was changed last year,

so I won't touch it.

 

I've kept the filter for now, No sure I need to, or if that really matters. I'll see during install.

 

bracket1.jpg

As announced, it was "bracket day" today and started with doing a temporary one, as I've not decided yet where to actually place the

kick down on uint, I've made this one so its inline and I can come back to that Lokar thingy later on. (gonna CAD that thing to have the best possible location and length)

@Adam, on my setup, using the original bracket, the throttle cable needs an offset of 3.5 cm. The bracket here reproduces the front face of the ford bracket.

I'll provide later on detailed figure once I'll do the final one with the KD and properly welded. I simply didn't settle yet on wether the cable should be below or next to it.

 

bracket2.jpg

Then came an unexpected new bracket in sight. The unit connector for the positive, negative that needs be directly connected to the battery and

the positive wire for the fuel pomp has two electrical components that need be screwed somewhere. As I do not want drill the firewall unless I have no choice,

I've reused one of the stud that hold the air system inside the car. So made a robust bracket that will hold both units and keep them nicely aligned on firewall.

 

bracket22.jpg

Because my battery is located in trunk and need go thru the car, location's ideal as its next to the grommet. Once in place, aside being firmly in place and

away from block heat, they almost gone for the eye. Once, i'll have properly routed and secured the wires inside, i'll hide/protect them better.

 

pumpfeed.jpg

And then it was time for some gym! Somehow a simple thing like passing wires thru a grommet that leads high into the dashboard always

let you discover some unknown muscles which I'm sure I'll remember even more tomorrow morning :)

Still need to define where i'm gonna pass the wire + connector of the monitor. Prolly thru the airco grommet on passenger side.

 

All with all, nothing but many details to do here and there. Next session, more picts!

 

Awesome progress Fabrice that's encouraging to see! Do you have any slack on the Coolant temp sensor for the Sniper? Mine was ridiculously close to not fitting and the wire is taunt with little to no slack. 

 

I will wire up my Surge Tank tomorrow, then finally put the sniper on and will begin to wire it as well. So you're saying the throttle cable needed to be offset 3.5cm horizontally towards the driver's side from the original location correct? And this is using Holley's supplied linkage on the actual throttle body? Did you need to move the throttle cable up or down at all? Looks like you stayed level and went 3.5cm towards the driver's side, but better to clarify than to assume, right?  ::thumb::

 

Thanks,

 

Adam

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@adam, yes plenty slack for me, in fact a little too many, so wires for sensors need be secured as they potentially could be go too near of the waterpump pulley/belt. I want do first basic install and once the thing runs, I'm gonna redo the engine wiring. Notice for instance the small aluminum tube on the pict with throttle bracket, currently 4 wires for ignition, watertemp go thru it. This keeps them and engine clean and safe.

So I'll redo a new one with all wires once ideal length and locations are known. Its tedious to make, as you have to drill holes like a flute, pass all wires thru and then bend, its a 'allgood or allWrong' thingy, but

It makes maintenance so easy, it's worth it. All this to say, new one might go to the other side to host watertemp and the unit wires for accessories. Tho atm, none of the ports from this connector have use to me.

 

Yes the offset to compensate the throttle alignment is 3.5 cm. Measured from center holes on original bracket. I've kept same height as the nipple (biggest ball of the two provided) as its nicely paralel to engine heads, and there is sufficient distance from the unit axle center. Unlike Lokar, Holley understands the laws of rotations :) so, as original bracket is 2 cm from its side, if you add 2 more on the other side, you have same part as I did. If you pick to set the lever of the KD inline on lowest nipple hole of the unit, you need drill a hole beneath the screw that secures your throttle cable. This means the bracket would need become L shapped. Which was one of the reasons, I decided wait a bit to make the final piece.

 

An important aspect to not forget, is that because of the offset, the bracket needs be folded. Not just made of thicker metal, so it does not bend and eventually get tired. There is quite a force applied to it. Not wonder the original is made that strong. So for the final version, I'll prolly add an extra bar from extreme back to the 2 bolts base on the intake...

73 modified Grande 351C. Almost done. 

71 429CJ. In progress

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@adam, yes plenty slack for me, in fact a little too many, so wires for sensors need be secured as they potentially could be go too near of the waterpump pulley/belt. I want do first basic install and once the thing runs, I'm gonna redo the engine wiring. Notice for instance the small aluminum tube on the pict with throttle bracket, currently 4 wires for ignition, watertemp go thru it. This keeps them and engine clean and safe.

So I'll redo a new one with all wires once ideal length and locations are known. Its tedious to make, as you have to drill holes like a flute, pass all wires thru and then bend, its a 'allgood or allWrong' thingy, but

It makes maintenance so easy, it's worth it. All this to say, new one might go to the other side to host watertemp and the unit wires for accessories. Tho atm, none of the ports from this connector have use to me.

 

Yes the offset to compensate the throttle alignment is 3.5 cm. Measured from center holes on original bracket. I've kept same height as the nipple (biggest ball of the two provided) as its nicely paralel to engine heads, and there is sufficient distance from the unit axle center. Unlike Lokar, Holley understands the laws of rotations :)  so, as original bracket is 2 cm from its side, if you add 2 more on the other side, you have same part as I did. If you pick to set the lever of the KD inline on lowest nipple hole of the unit, you need drill a hole beneath the screw that secures your throttle cable. This means the bracket would need become L shapped. Which was one of the reasons, I decided wait a bit to make the final piece.

 

An important aspect to not forget, is that because of the offset, the bracket needs be folded. Not just made of thicker metal, so it does not bend and eventually get tired. There is quite a force applied to it. Not wonder the original is made that strong. So for the final version, I'll prolly add an extra bar from extreme back to the 2 bolts base on the intake...

 

 

hmmm that's interesting considering I have such little slack. Will continue to follow your lead for the kickdown, can't wait to see your progress!

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Update:

 

I have now got everything hooked up, but the one thing I'm missing is a 12v ignition source... Tried the + side of the coil, but it has resistor or something and drops the volts to 6.. Anyone have any idea if theres another 12v ignition source in the engine bay?

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Did your car have the anti diesel set up? The power ran to the actuator was a full 12v igniting source. I used mine for my elec choke. Also. If you are running an aftermarket ignition like a pertronix etc you should have a full 12v going to the coil. There is a factory resistor there that would either need to be removed or wire it to a relay like I did so you don't have to cut the factory wires.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Did your car have the anti diesel set up? The power ran to the actuator was a full 12v igniting source. I used mine for my elec choke.

 

Not too sure what that is? Where abouts is it located so that I can check?

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The anti diesel was an actuator on the carb that would activate and open the throttle slightly while running then when you shut the car off it was deenergized and made sure the butterflies closed completely to prevent run on. It was hooked up on the drivers side of the carb.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Here are a couple pics of what it looked like.

IMG_2356.jpg

 

IMG_2357.jpg

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Did your car have the anti diesel set up? The power ran to the actuator was a full 12v igniting source. I used mine for my elec choke. Also. If you are running an aftermarket ignition like a pertronix etc you should have a full 12v going to the coil. There is a factory resistor there that would either need to be removed or wire it to a relay like I did so you don't have to cut the factory wires.

 

I have a full 12v in the wire going to the aftermarket pertonix coil, but as soon as I connect the wire to the coil it drops to 6v. However, if I connect the throttle body and the surge tank to the wire WITHOUT connecting to the coil, it works fine and runs at 12v. Unfortunately, I need my coil and thus cannot get around it dropping the wire to 6v. I tried making a pig tail wire to see if splicing the wire going to the coil would work, but it seems the voltage in the wire gets dropped to 6v as soon as it's attached..

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Here are a couple pics of what it looked like.

IMG_2356.jpg

 

IMG_2357.jpg

 

Was this an option back in the day or was it standard on all 72 models? When I bought the car it already had an aftermarket carb on it, so if it was an option I don't know if I have it. I will search around near the firewall to see if I can find the wire that went to this regardless, thanks!

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