Windshield Install

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Three Ponies

Active member
Joined
Sep 5, 2016
Messages
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Location
West Grove, PA
My Car
1973 Convertible Restomod (5.0 HO motor, 24LB injectors, 75MM throttle body, E cam, Tremec TKO 5 speed, 4WDB and other fun stuff)
2000 GT Convertible (Roush conversion)
2004 Thoroughbred (the kind that poops)
1962 Thunderbird
1954 Mercury Monterey Sun Valley
I need some quick advice on windshield installation. 

I bought a 73 convertible completely disassembled and on a rotisserie. Having not taken the car apart myself, It naturally is a challenge. I'm getting ready to install the windshield (after figuring out the engineer who designed the door weatherstrip, cowl trim and the sunvisors had a sick sense of humor). I don't see any clips, so I assume this is a glue-in install. 

What is the best product to use? I have a big roll of the 3M round bead windshield ribbon tape. I've used this on a number of street rods. Suggestions?

 
I used the 3m fast cure urethane windshield adhesive. The super fast cures too quickly. Get some suction cups and some help to install.

Post up some pictures of the car. I am curious as to the direction. I have a 73 Vert that I am planning on going a similar route with.

 
I used the 3m fast cure urethane windshield adhesive. The super fast cures too quickly. Get some suction cups and some help to install.

Post up some pictures of the car. I am curious as to the direction. I have a 73 Vert that I am planning on going a similar route with.
I'll go with the 3m Fast Cure. I have a bunch of the 3M ribbon tape left over from a few street rods, but I'm converned with the thickness. On a street rod with press in trim, windshield thickness isn't a big deal. I want this car right. 

I'm 90% done at this point, but still need to wet sand and polish the paint and get a top. Here are a few photos. I do plan on rolling it outside tomorrow so i will shoot some more. 





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If you use the 3/M ribbon probably do not need spacers. If you use the tube type I would use spacers to set the windshield correct height. I do not remember what the thickness was might be in Ford manual.

You will need to apply a piece of closed sell foam to the windshield frame where the stainless mounts to close off the gap between the stainless and frame. If not water will come inside the car. I found some at Lowe's that worked but do not know how good never been in rain, lol.

Pictures of the trim showing where the foam was and a pic with tape measure showing the gap foam has to close. Check the conditions of the tiny spot welds holding the bracket to the windshield stainless. They break off easily and will have to be TIG welded back.

I could not find a pic of the three brackets along the bottom of the windshield if you need a pic let me know.











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When you put the stainless and aluminum tracks along the a post for the door and glass seal did you also add sealer there? If not you need to do again and add some of the 3-M sealer rolled out thinner so the trim fits down. The Carpenter rubber seals fit perfect with no issues at all on mine.

Also there are three metal brackets along the bottom that prevent the windshield from going down too low. You need them and also the plastic edge that protects the bottom of the glass from chipping and cracking on the brackets.

Looks like the car is black was it an original black car. If so it should have six digit DSO code and would have came with an argent front bumper.

 
If you use the 3/M ribbon probably do not need spacers. If you use the tube type I would use spacers to set the windshield correct height. I do not remember what the thickness was might be in Ford manual.

You will need to apply a piece of closed sell foam to the windshield frame where the stainless mounts to close off the gap between the stainless and frame. If not water will come inside the car. I found some at Lowe's that worked but do not know how good never been in rain, lol.

Pictures of the trim showing where the foam was and a pic with tape measure showing the gap foam has to close. Check the conditions of the tiny spot welds holding the bracket to the windshield stainless. They break off easily and will have to be TIG welded back.

I could not find a pic of the three brackets along the bottom of the windshield if you need a pic let me know.











facebook com upload photos

When you put the stainless and aluminum tracks along the a post for the door and glass seal did you also add sealer there? If not you need to do again and add some of the 3-M sealer rolled out thinner so the trim fits down. The Carpenter rubber seals fit perfect with no issues at all on mine.

Also there are three metal brackets along the bottom that prevent the windshield from going down too low. You need them and also the plastic edge that protects the bottom of the glass from chipping and cracking on the brackets.

Looks like the car is black was it an original black car. If so it should have six digit DSO code and would have came with an argent front bumper.
The car is originally silver. A 302 auto delivered to a dealer outside of Washington DC. I I bought it on a rotisserie with a trailer full of parts. I had a wrecked 90 Lx 5.0.  And then the story began.....

 
I used the roll of 3m sealer without any spacers and it work great. Do you have the black plastic channel that slides on to the bottom of the windshield glass? Don't think its critical but all windshields had them originally installed before the glass is set in place. I don't have real good picture of it, but can see it along the bottom edge below the wipers in the pic below. It rests between the glass and the windshield stops on the cowl.



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You posted a picture of you holding the backside of the stainless. The best thing to remove the old glue is household paint stripper. It worked great for me when i was removing the old rubber gasket round the tail lights.

 
You posted a picture of you holding the backside of the stainless. The best thing to remove the old glue is household paint stripper. It worked great for me when i was removing the old rubber gasket round the tail lights.
I used lacquer thinner I love the smell, lol. That was close to two years ago when that pic made car back together now.

 
I'm horrible about following up on these threads. I used the 3M ribbon sealer and the foam weatherstrip and the install went great with no problems. It took longer to break down the shipping crate than it did to install the glass. 

I'm slooooooowly getting there



 
Do you use the 3M ribbon tape stuff for a fastback windshield as well, I would like to replace my windshield as well, but I have heard there is a certain kind of adhesive I have to use.

 
Most people do use the material 3-M makes that comes in a calk tube. Easier to handle and dispense. Factory used that in bulk container. Your local supplier can get you the right one I do not have the number in my head.

When you get the windshield out you will probably have some rust in the A post area but might not have. Clean up all the old sealer with lacquer thinner or some solvent that removes it. Watch out for any sharp edges made when they spot welded the flanges together.

Since you have a trim piece that is not on a Convertible you don't want to get the sealer out where the trim goes or it will not install correct. You might have to replace some or all of the trim clips. Also up the A post if you get too much it gets all over you A post covers on the inside and makes a mess.

Checked the internet for how to videos I am sure there has to be several more here is short one. It looked like he also used a primer before putting the sealer on.


 
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