Finally!

7173Mustangs.com

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Jul 6, 2015
Messages
4,345
Reaction score
207
Location
Iowa
My Car
1973 Mustang Grande 351C 2v
This is the layout of the new shop. Digging is supposed to start next Tuesday as long as the county made it out today to verify measurements from the lot line. New shop will be 40x40! Can't wait to get it done and up and running. I'm also putting an addition on the house we just purchased on the lot as well so I am thinking the boss will want me working on that more so than the shop. :)



 
Jason,

I used to travel frequently to West Des Moines. I miss going to the state fair which if I recall is in August. Great food.... on a stick.

Can't wait to see the new shop done. Let me know when I can move my project in next to yours :)

 
This is the layout of the new shop. Digging is supposed to start next Tuesday as long as the county made it out today to verify measurements from the lot line. New shop will be 40x40! Can't wait to get it done and up and running. I'm also putting an addition on the house we just purchased on the lot as well so I am thinking the boss will want me working on that more so than the shop. :)

Wow, nice piece of land! Looking forward to the progress!

 
Just another suggestion. Are you building the garage as one big open area? If so consider constructing you a room to work in to keep the dust, dirt, paint off the remainder of the shop. I did a small, 16 feet  26 feet room to allow one car to be in on rotisserie. I also vaulted the ceiling to take some of the dead air space out and allowed the LED lights to be mounted on an angle. I am going to add four more of the lights one on each end and another in the middle on each side.



I wired the room so that I can have welder in there and all the lights are wired to the switches I do not have to burn them all if not needed. I have not built my door to close off yet it will have a foam seal to close off the area. Like you I am trying to remodel house also and go back and forth from garage to home.

I am also putting a floor on the work room ceiling joists and can store parts up there to clear out floor space. I have a 16' eve height.

The width of the room was determined by the maximum length that a 2" 12" pine framing could span without going to 12" centers or to a truss which is way more expensive.

I still have to put in a ventilation system. I could not do that while I was building it or would have issue with the inspectors. After you get certificate of occupancy you can do more work without them knowing.

I have found that one of the best work benches you can get is an old drafting table. The top tilts and it also has power to raise and lower so you can work sitting or standing. I got at one of the second hand stores for $10.00 and I use it every day.

The work room is also insulated so I do not have to heat the entire shop to be comfortable. You can see in the picture where the electrical conduit comes out of the floor to feed the work room. The wiring for the two post lift was also under the floor and I put thicker concrete under the posts for the lift. Maybe one day I will put a video slide show together showing the shop going up.





upload an album

 
Thanks for all the info David. Keep the suggestions coming. I was planning the work room as well based on your original post on the shop. I have been looking for a drafting table but have not found a decent one yet. I have to get the layout to my concrete guy so he can pour the concrete thicker for the lift.

 
Thanks for all the info David. Keep the suggestions coming. I was planning the work room as well based on your original post on the shop. I have been looking for a drafting table but have not found a decent one yet. I have to get the layout to my concrete guy so he can pour the concrete thicker for the lift.
The lift people say that 4" is enough but I dug a little deeper where the post anchor bolts went and also made a couple re-bar frames and put in as well. Keep the re-bar away from where the anchor bolts go so you don't hit it when drilling. It did not add any cost to do this just piece of mind. Most lift failures that I see on the net are due to anchor bolt failure or floor failure. When I put the lift up they wanted you to hold everything withing about 1/16" when you positioned the  posts and drilled the anchor bolt holes.

When they pour the concrete have them put clear sealer on when they get it all finished down and joints cut. This will keep any mud stains from getting into your pad while they are building it and it will hose off and look great. If you do not the dirt might stain the concrete.

Hey the building is cheap it is the darn dirt work and concrete that gets expensive. I had more in site prep and the pad than the building cost.

I convinced the builder to let me use his track hoe and I put all the gutter drains in, conduit for electrical service entrance and water line before the building was erected and in the way. No way to damage it if not there. They can put down spouts to match your hook ups. Just makes life easier in the end and of course take pictures and print them so you know where everything is in the future. You can see the conduit stubs in the picture of the slab they had just finshed working it and sprayed the sealer on.

BTW I had never use one to the track hoes before had to get on net to figure out how to start it. I dug over 800 feet of trenches at the garage and put in a drain at house also and 400' of water line. I could not tell you what handle does what now but after 5 min. I could do pretty good. Just lot slower than a trained operator but it was free.

Another trick I do when I put water line in is to put packing peanuts around the line where it goes into the building so it is easy to dig up if there is an issue. Mine was 3 ' deep to get under the foundation.  If you are doing your own wiring be sure to add the ground to the re-bar in the footings that was a new requirement here. The inspector will look for it before they pour concrete. They usually do two stage pour, footings first and then floor later. The ground then goes to the meter box and then of course the two ground stakes. I was well pleased with their work not a crack anywhere in the slab even now. I think mine ended up over 70 yards of concrete in footings and floor.





 
Nice. And yes the concrete is expensive. Especially in my case as a portion of the shop is into a hill so I will have 4' of concrete walls around the shop. I like the steel building like you did but unfortunately the county also says no to that. Has to be stick build.

 
Wow. Lots of digging going on. Anyone needs some sand? I haven't seen this much sand in my lifetime. On the plus side drainage should be good.





I guess that is what you get for living at the beach, lol. Is it from river or was ocean there at one time?
No Beach. I am a fair distance from the river about 3 miles as the crow flies. I doubt the ocean was in the middle of Iowa.

 
That is a big extension of the house ! Nice green area where you live!
Yes the house addition is roughly the same square footage of the new shop. Had to comprise with the boss. :) The lot is just over 2 acres and about 1/3 of it is heavily wooded.

 
of course it was! Granted it was in the Paleozoic era so not too many of us are old enough to remember it.
I remember it well... :whistling: :D

 
Back
Top