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Correct Spatter Paint for Tunk??


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I am just getting my drive quality 1973 vert back together. It is a 48,000 mile car that sat for now 25 years. I have gone through the mechanical, electrical and most of the interior. Of course the tail light gaskets had leaked and there were pin holes around the tail lights. This is a California car and he must have washed it a lot, lol. He had put a boom box in the trunk and when the tail lights leaked it rusted the trunk floor. No holes just surface rust. I tried the Evapo Rust stuff with no success and after two weeks of soaking towels and putting stretch wrap over it I just went with wire brush on drill and did best I could. I then phosphate and applied Gray POR over that. I put some new seam sealer in places that was cracked or peeling. Today I used fiber glass mat and epoxy to repair around the tail light seal surface in the tail light panel. Not going to cut out the panel and replace. This is a drive not a show car. It does still have original paint and interior. I got new Carpenter tail light seals that are much harder EPDM I think rubber and new tail light lens and trim. I refinished the tail light buckets.

So I thought I better order me some spatter paint to finish off the trunk. Well when I went to NPD there paint says "Almost matches" . What is the best match for the original mostly black / grey base spatter paint in our cars. I have not bought any in 35 years and have no idea what is closest. Again not a show car i just want it to look correct.

I did do search but came up without anything so I probably did search wrong, lol. Getting old sucks.

The trunk pic is my original 73 Mach 1 so I have something to compare to. The yellow car is one I am working on.

DSC_0353.jpg

 

 

Thanks for any help.

100_2223.jpg

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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David, on my 71 Mach, I used NPD's 501 Black/Grey with the clear coat over it. Looks good enough for the Girls I go with!!

If you're not into concours, no-one will know if it is off a shade. Besides, my trunk is full of sh*t anyway for the show circuit, so no-one sees any of it.

On my firewall cowl, the inspection stickers I put on, just happen to 'read' T-F-B and as a buddy said when someone asked what they were, he piped up, " well if you don't like it, To F'in Bad" Goes for the trunk too!!

Good luck

Geoff.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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Here is what the Mustang Club of America states in their judging rules for 71/73 Mustangs:

 

3. TRUNK Points

 

A. Mat: Dark gray splatter on trunk floor. Must cover galvanized plugs in floor with some

overspray on filler boot. Grande - mat standard. Coupes/convertibles - mat optional.

Mach I - no mat ....................................................................................................................... 5

Workmanship, condition and cleanliness ..................................................................................... 3

Mike AKA Ole Pony & Rare Pony
Our current Mustang garage/driveway
1973 Mustang Convert - Bought in 1974 - Still have it!
2004 Mach 1 Oxford White Auto, Bought Sept 06

20180127_082009.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

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The black with blue/gray fleck is correct for 72-73.  The MCA rules are mistaken in applying the gray to all 71-73 cars. 71 did have the gray spatter finish.  Zolotone makes a very good match to the stock color.  This is what I used.

 

http://www.tcpglobal.com/Brands-Zolatone-20-Series-Colors-Midnight-Blue/

 

60761046_trunkpaint3.thumb.JPG.828dc398c0edb1a6fa39ee6a28c02bf8.JPG

1221591815_trunkpaint2.thumb.jpg.73e74fd9cffceb14168166accb27670d.jpg

BKDunha

72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)

67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)

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David,

 

Just another example here. The spatter paints are not water proof so they say to clear coat it afterward. I instead painted my trunk floor and inside quarters with chassis black and then a few coats of the Eastwood spatter paint. I think the black not only protected the metal but it also toned down the spatter paint. I think it turned out very close to the original. After reading all the feedback, it seems we all had our own way of getting there. So now it's clear as mud.

 

DSC_0268a.jpg

 

20170727_112000_resized.jpg

 

bb code img

1973 H Code Convertible - Medium Copper Metallic - June 8, 1973, Built Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle

DSC_0266xsm.jpg

satellite.png Proud Space Junk Award Winner!

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The black with blue/gray fleck is correct for 72-73.  The MCA rules are mistaken in applying the gray to all 71-73 cars. 71 did have the gray spatter finish.  Zolotone makes a very good match to the stock color.  This is what I used.

 

http://www.tcpglobal.com/Brands-Zolatone-20-Series-Colors-Midnight-Blue/

 

 

 

 

That has a lot more texture than original for sure. It looks even more textured than the GM style coating.

I do not have a good camera to put up a close up of my original car and there is a 72 sitting here that was crashed with 32,000 that was never painted. I did go my the Benjamin Moore paint store and they no longer make what was exact and it was also water base.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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David,

 

Just another example here. The spatter paints are not water proof so they say to clear coat it afterward. I instead painted my trunk floor and inside quarters with chassis black and then a few coats of the Eastwood spatter paint. I think the black not only protected the metal but it also toned down the spatter paint. I think it turned out very close to the original. After reading all the feedback, it seems we all had our own way of getting there. So now it's clear as mud.

 

DSC_0268a.jpg

 

20170727_112000_resized.jpg

 

bb code img

 

This looks more like my original but still looks like a light coat of bed liner or much thicker than orig. The trunk had the primer sprayed in it first at factory and then what ever over spray got in from jaming out the trunk and then they put the spatter paint on.  I could not find anything local today so I guess I will order something will keep looking at all this great info everyone is sharing. It beats going and buying a can of each.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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David,

 

Just another example here. The spatter paints are not water proof so they say to clear coat it afterward. I instead painted my trunk floor and inside quarters with chassis black and then a few coats of the Eastwood spatter paint. I think the black not only protected the metal but it also toned down the spatter paint. I think it turned out very close to the original. After reading all the feedback, it seems we all had our own way of getting there. So now it's clear as mud.

 

DSC_0268a.jpg

 

20170727_112000_resized.jpg

 

bb code img

 

This looks more like my original but still looks like a light coat of bed liner or much thicker than orig. The trunk had the primer sprayed in it first at factory and then what ever over spray got in from jaming out the trunk and then they put the spatter paint on.  I could not find anything local today so I guess I will order something will keep looking at all this great info everyone is sharing. It beats going and buying a can of each.

From the pictures, it does look that way. I think you get more texture the more costs of spatter you do. Keep it thin and it would be smoother, but then the coverage may not be enough.

1973 H Code Convertible - Medium Copper Metallic - June 8, 1973, Built Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle

DSC_0266xsm.jpg

satellite.png Proud Space Junk Award Winner!

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FWIW, this is my car using the DupliColor paint.  I used three cans as it doesn't cover very well and takes a very long time to dry.  In the end it looks plenty good enough for me. 

 

 

IMG_2527.jpg

 

IMG_2530.jpg

Mike

__________________________________

Black 1985 GT

Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1

Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's

Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 390ci, Tremec 3550, FiTech EFI

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Those photos were still with the paint wet. I applied 2 coats with a siphon gun.  The shot of the quarter panel includes the recreation of the factory sound deadener on the interior of the quarter.  Here are a couple pictures of the texture after drying.

 

1479395939_197219.thumb.jpg.f51342295ff158e2024f5fee6b1b0e86.jpg

1359334065_197220.thumb.jpg.c8c27ed9a5da2e2bc99faf4e6087403a.jpg

IMG_0331.thumb.JPG.83e707e1e437976b980d627d9f5b6bfc.JPG

 

 

Here is an original paint 71 Boss I documented in Indianapolis.  This is the lighter gray used in 71.

 

P1010215.thumb.JPG.569138e5b72e4451499212ba1750b17a.JPG

BKDunha

72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)

67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)

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FWIW, this is my car using the DupliColor paint.  I used three cans as it doesn't cover very well and takes a very long time to dry.  In the end it looks plenty good enough for me. 

 

Mike,

It does look more like orig. Do you not have the oval plug for the hole in the floor along with the two rubber plugs on each side? They were in placef when sprayed at factory.

IMG_2527.jpg

 

IMG_2530.jpg

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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I did not have the plugs at the time I sprayed.  I never had the metal one. The rubber plug kit arrived too late and they were too small to fit properly so that was annoying.  I put my originals in place for the time being but they are a bit ratty and unpainted. 

 

I have transitioned to a 390 build for my F100 and am retiring from active duty here in a few months.  The rubber plugs slipped off my radar as I have bigger projects to finish first.

Mike

__________________________________

Black 1985 GT

Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1

Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's

Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 390ci, Tremec 3550, FiTech EFI

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I did not have the plugs at the time I sprayed.  I never had the metal one.  The rubber plug kit arrived too late and they were too small to fit properly so that was annoying.  I put my originals in place for the time being but they are a bit ratty and unpainted. 

 

I have transitioned to a 390 build for my F100 and am retiring from active duty here in a few months.  The rubber plugs slipped off my radar as I have bigger projects to finish first.

 

Does anything ever go right on a build, lol I understand you pain.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Those photos were still with the paint wet. I applied 2 coats with a siphon gun.  The shot of the quarter panel includes the recreation of the factory sound deadener on the interior of the quarter.  Here are a couple pictures of the texture after drying.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is an original paint 71 Boss I documented in Indianapolis.  This is the lighter gray used in 71.

I would have to say foul ball on this one. No way would the trap door have no over spray from trunk with everything else having it. It was completely assembled when sprayed. I would say that someone is trying to pull the wool on this car. Not as an original. Little things like this tell the story on a particular car. I would be very skeptical due to just this detail.

 

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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I sent an inquiry off to a company that produces the spatter paint to see if they will attempt to do a perfect match for our cars. That would be great. I do not know if any of you ever sprayed the real stuff or not. I was water base and you did not thin. You put in gun and use pressure fed to spray it. Not many of you even have a pressure fed gun. A airless gun would probably work fine.

I will let all know if they decide to try to make us paint for our cars.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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  • 7 months later...

Sorry to add to an old thread, but this is my 2 cents. I took lots of pictures of my 72 trunk during disassembly and the spatter paint is darker than the photos posted above, and is a fairly straight line across the trapdoor. Definitely painted after complete assembly, so spatter all over back side of tail lights, wiring harness, but not the bumper bolts. I have used the Eastwood and Duplicolor paints on other vehicle trunks and they need a clear coat, and still that will yellow over time. I am going with Zolatone this time. Grey Stone looks close. Will post pics after that.

2016_03_06_12_46_51.jpg

 

2016_03_06_12_46_56.jpg

 

2016_02_18_13_06_18.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just an update to the post above. I went with Zolatone Grey Stone, just needed 1 quart and still have about 1/2 can left. Painted the trunk using the paint gun that I bought with my lizard skin. Just lucky it sprayed this so well because of the big orifice in the gun nozzle. I tossed it in the trash, since I couldn't figure out a way to clean this stuff out of the gun.

Painted the rubber plugs separately after prepping them with plastic adhesion promoter and a coat of SEM color coat. Doubt it will adhere over time or if I ever have to remove them again. This stuff is tough, it has a nice 3 dimensional flake in it, and when I compared it to my original with good lighting, it was a great match, maybe lighter, but the old finish could have darkened with age, who knows?

2018_03_15_18_02_43.jpg

 

2018_03_15_18_02_52.jpg

 

2018_03_15_18_03_17.jpg

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rbarry what was the build date of your car?

BKDunha

72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)

67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)

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