Another side stripe install question

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Joined
Apr 22, 2013
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Location
san diego
My Car
1973 mustang convertible(some day)
I'm installing my side stripes and i am using a laser to run a straight edge across the car to place a tape line. As I lay out the stripe i see it tappers narrower as it goes back. I cant tell is the top is straight and the bottom is tapper up as it goes back, the other way around, or both the top and bottom tapper towards the middle as it goes back. I figured if the top was straight I would use the laser to place the straight tape line on the top of the decal. Any input would be appreciated.

 
I think what is most important is where you start and where you end, then getting it straight between those two points. You need to get the height right over the front and rear side markers and then string your line. I found applying the stripe on the door because it is very long the most challenging to get straight.https://ibb.co/kxtsfQ

DSC_094113a.jpg






image of a safe

 
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I used a laser light as well, but first I leveled the car with a level on the door sill, using a jack to adjust it. Firstly though, I got the measurements from the 429Mustang and Cougar website. This proved to be a guide only as I found different stripe manufacturers are not the same. As Rich said, the start and finish point are most important and as far as I can see, it's the top of the stripe that should be straight and level.

My stripe kit was from Graphics Express in Florida. I found the kit and the service exceptional. They use the correct 3M material and the sheen is perfect. They also supply a comprehensive instruction sheet. Use Dawn Blue (original) dish soap diluted  1 tablespoon to 1 gallon of water used in a spray bottle.

Some other brands are totally wrong, too thin and way too shiny. I found this out the hard way and ended up scrapping a set. Buyer beware!

All the best with it,

Geoff.

EDIT: Here's a pic of my 71. Not claiming it to be perfect, but........... Oh, and before someone comments on the fact that I retained the brightwork, my car is a 1 of 6 so I did not want to remove the strips in case someone later on wants to restore to original.

 
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Just a couple notes on the install. Even though you use a laser step back and look at the lines. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DO OUTSIDE OR WITH A FAN ON. Once you get the stripe backing paper taped where you want it for sure use the soap mixture. If you do not and touch the stripe to the paint it probably is not going to come loose to position it. I agree that the fore and aft position is out of place on more cars than right. Where the wheel lip is and how the stripe approaches it is off on lots of cars.

Get online and look at old Ford advertising and showroom brochures is also a good place to see old originals.

I myself think that measuring off the bottom of the door is best place to get the height right and work out from there. The fore and aft on fender and quarter along with up and down is a juggling act.

Just think how accurate the eye is when you shoot a gun you can see very accurately. The laser is where you put it not necessarily right place.

I do have an original 72 Mach 1 T-5 that was crashed sitting in the back yard with an original set of stripes on it. I could check some measurements from bottom of door up or body line down and take pic if you want. Left fender is off the car and right is twisted but still there.







 
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Got a stiff neck looking at the pics (lol) but nice job there. A bit of know-how and a lot of patience paid off. The 73 stripe just looked wrong from the get-go, so a good choice imo to put the 71-72 hockey stripe on.

Well done.

Geoff.

 
i checked out the Graphics Express in Florida website and they have some killer deals. $135 for the entire car is awesome. i will be buying from them. but i am curious. does anyone apply the decals before the clear coat when doing a new paint job? i am considering installing all the decals before my clear goes onto the car at all so it will have 4 or 5 clear coats sprayed on top of it.

 
Just an opinion. When you clear over the stripes you will be sanding and buffing and the stripes will be shiny like the paint. I do not think it would look right if you clear over the stripes. Your choice for sure but I think would look wrong like the shiny hood black out. The black out was to take the shine off not add to it.

 
Is the gap between the stripe and the body line above it the same from front to back (or rather middle)?

 
i checked out the Graphics Express in Florida website and they have some killer deals. $135 for the entire car is awesome. i will be buying from them. but i am curious. does anyone apply the decals before the clear coat when doing a new paint job? i am considering installing all the decals before my clear goes onto the car at all so it will have 4 or 5 clear coats sprayed on top of it.
 Graphics Express were great to work with. When I ordered my set, it unfortunately came with 2 right side, rear of the front wheel arch pieces, no left side. I called and they sent me a replacement piece immediately, express mail. The material was 3M and an exact match for thickness and sheen. Went on really easy following the instructions to the letter.

As for clearing over it, no idea, but would there be an issue with the clear sticking to the vinyl? Besides if you ever wanted to remove or replace them, you're screwed. I wouldn't do it imo.

Geoff.

 
Is the gap between the stripe and the body line above it the same from front to back (or rather middle)?
 I set mine up with the front piece and the rear piece in place with the correct gap above the marker lights. With those set right, the top of the stripe falls into place as it were, should be straight. Dimensions are on the 429 Mustang and Cougar megasite for the height above the marker lights if I remember and I think it is about 1/4". The picture is not too easy to see as I took it with the lights on, but a 1/4" should be okay.

Hope that helps.

 
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