Correct Fan blade for 1973 351C 4V

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1973 Ford Mustang Q-code convertible
Hi guys,

I am looking for a correct 1973 351C 4V fan blade. Anybody able to tell me what the correct part number is for my restoration project? 

I've found a couple of part numbers but not sure if one of these is the specific part for this engine and year...

CF D2SE-8600-AA

CF D0AE -A

I've also read that there was a recall for fan blades. For which year was this?

Jeroen

 
jd79, the recall actually started in 1972 with the new 7 blade flex fan that was used on the Gran Torino/Montego cars. DO NOT use any of the 7 blade flex fans that still may be out there (429/460 19 & 19 1/2" 7 blade fans were not involved in recall). There was a massive recall because of blade fracturing in early 1972 and remained active through the early 80's. Since all the fans have engineering numbers on them, I'll just list them and not the part numbers. These are the most commonly used 5 blade fans: DOAE-A, D1AE-CA, D2SE-AA, D3OE-AA, D4OE-AA, D6OE-AA, D7AE-AA, D8OE-AA, D9AE-EA. Unfortunately there was also a problem with some of the replacement 5 blade fans fracturing. So the easiest and safest solution would to be to use the D9AE-EA as it was in use on a lot of later models such as the 79-91 Crown Vic. It was also a service replacement for all the ID #'s I've listed above and was the fan listed for the 73 302, 351 AC Mustang in the final issue (Nov 88) 73-79 Master Parts Catalog. Part number for the D9AE-EA fan is D9AZ-8600-A

 
On the recall. I still have my recall letter somewhere. I never took it in for replacement. Just as a little insurance  edge cracks and die marks in the stamping that cause the failures are know to be issues. The condition of the die cutting steels have a lot to do with this happening and may be random. If you are going to run one of the originals. I would go around the edges of the stamping with a fine grinding wheel and remove the die break out marks on the edge to give it a smooth edge. This will help stop any cracks. If you see cracks in the metal it is too late and DO NOT use it. 

When working in the lawn equipment business we accelerated the failures of stampings on vibration tables. We knew the harmonics that the part would see in use and could put parts on the table and make them fail early. Every batch of mower blades had a sample pulled and put on for test. We had a batch that was failing in less than 3 min. of testing. When I went to the supplier to see what was up there was a fine line. A die mark caused by a wire EDM start mark that was the start of the cracks it was .003 deep. Stoned the mark off the tooling ran parts took back and tested and they were ok. So a tiny little defect in a stamping like in a fan that is subject to a harmonic failure can cause serious issues.

I expect to see lots of cracks in the new vehicles in coming years due to the use of HSS or UHSS in the construction. The Ultra High Strength Steels will fail if you try to reform them even new. There are steels in automobiles today that have to be heated up red hot and hot formed. If you try to form them cold they break like glass. A cooling fan on a car and the flywheel are two areas that are prone to harmonic failures and both can be deadly.

This pic is of an original 1973 351 C, 4-V as from factory.



 
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jd79, the recall actually started in 1972 with the new 7 blade flex fan that was used on the Gran Torino/Montego cars. DO NOT use any of the 7 blade flex fans that still may be out there (429/460 19 & 19 1/2" 7 blade fans were not involved in recall). There was a massive recall because of blade fracturing in early 1972 and remained active through the early 80's. Since all the fans have engineering numbers on them, I'll just list them and not the part numbers. These are the most commonly used 5 blade fans: DOAE-A, D1AE-CA, D2SE-AA, D3OE-AA, D4OE-AA, D6OE-AA, D7AE-AA, D8OE-AA, D9AE-EA. Unfortunately there was also a problem with some of the replacement 5 blade fans fracturing. So the easiest and safest solution would to be to use the D9AE-EA as it was in use on a lot of later models such as the 79-91 Crown Vic. It was also a service replacement for all the ID #'s I've listed above and was the fan listed for the 73 302, 351 AC Mustang in the final issue (Nov 88) 73-79 Master Parts Catalog. Part number for the D9AE-EA fan is D9AZ-8600-A
 Steve, thanks for the very useful information!  :goodpost:

 
On the recall. I still have my recall letter somewhere. I never took it in for replacement. Just as a little insurance  edge cracks and die marks in the stamping that cause the failures are know to be issues. The condition of the die cutting steels have a lot to do with this happening and may be random. If you are going to run one of the originals. I would go around the edges of the stamping with a fine grinding wheel and remove the die break out marks on the edge to give it a smooth edge. This will help stop any cracks. If you see cracks in the metal it is too late and DO NOT use it. 

When working in the lawn equipment business we accelerated the failures of stampings on vibration tables. We knew the harmonics that the part would see in use and could put parts on the table and make them fail early. Every batch of mower blades had a sample pulled and put on for test. We had a batch that was failing in less than 3 min. of testing. When I went to the supplier to see what was up there was a fine line. A die mark caused by a wire EDM start mark that was the start of the cracks it was .003 deep. Stoned the mark off the tooling ran parts took back and tested and they were ok. So a tiny little defect in a stamping like in a fan that is subject to a harmonic failure can cause serious issues.

I expect to see lots of cracks in the new vehicles in coming years due to the use of HSS or UHSS in the construction. The Ultra High Strength Steels will fail if you try to reform them even new. There are steels in automobiles today that have to be heated up red hot and hot formed. If you try to form them cold they break like glass. A cooling fan on a car and the flywheel are two areas that are prone to harmonic failures and both can be deadly.

This pic is of an original 1973 351 C, 4-V as from factory.

David, thanks for your reply! I really have to think about it how accurate/original I am going to restore the engine bay area. I have seen a couple of NOS D9AZ-8600 fan blades which will probably be the safest option.... Just wonder what has been improved/changed to the design to avoid the fan blades shattering apart...

 
jd79, a primary concern of mine would be safety. Even at a concours level restoration the MCA judges would not be checking engineering numbers and date codes on your vehicle components. They wouldn't be done judging in a weeks time at a large show. They would check for proper style and finish fan. As David posted there were a multitude of manufacturing problems at the supplier. That's why the replacement fans continued to have a high failure rate.

Won't go into any detail, but there was a fatality involving a Ford shop tech in 72 when he was leaning over an engine that was being revved by another tech. There is no real good accurate way to track which fans were still fracturing so the final "Fix" D9AE-EA fan is the safest choice. I had a 79 351W Cougar XR7 that had the D9AZ fan and I can assure you I checked it on a regular basis after multiple fan replacements on one of my 72 Q code Gran Torino's. The D9AZ fan saw widespread use across the Ford product line so they should be an easy find. And as I posted earlier Ford was satisfied with it to the point that it became the replacement fan for ALL previous edition 5 blade flex fans.

 
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jd79, a primary concern of mine would be safety. Even at a concours level restoration the MCA judges would not be checking engineering numbers and date codes on your vehicle components. They wouldn't be done judging in a weeks time at a large show. They would check for proper style and finish fan. As David posted there were a multitude of manufacturing problems at the supplier. That's why the replacement fans continued to have a high failure rate.

Won't go into any detail, but there was a fatality involving a Ford shop tech in 72 when he was leaning over an engine that was being revved by another tech. There is no real good accurate way to track which fans were still fracturing so the final "Fix" D9AE-EA fan is the safest choice. I had a 79 351W Cougar XR7 that had the D9AZ fan and I can assure you I checked it on a regular basis after multiple fan replacements on one of my 72 Q code Gran Torino's. The D9AZ fan saw widespread use across the Ford product line so they should be an easy find. And as I posted earlier Ford was satisfied with it to the point that it became the replacement fan for ALL previous edition 5 blade flex fans.
Thanks Steve. Yes safety is very important! I will buy one of the replacement D9AZ version for the original look. I have a 6 blade version on my car now, so that is definitely not original.

 
Wow. Would have never known this except for this forum!
fbddf4724008714a0ed615bcd11dff60.jpg


I guess my fan is on the dangerous list?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 
sciabola13, a valid concern. Considering the tip speed of a rotating fan blade, a fractured piece breaking off becomes a very dangerous projectile. I listed the DOAE-A and D1AE-CA (DOAZ-8600-A) since they were they were the engineering numbers for the first fan to be eventually replaced by the then "New and Improved" 7 blade fan. There were no problems reported with the DOAE-D1AE that I am aware of. The problem started with the 7 blade flex fan that was originally production installed on the new 72 Gran Torino/Montego line and later phased in on other vehicle lines. The 5 blade flex fan issued after 72 that was supposed to be the "Fix" were the ones continuing to have fracturing problems.

I still have the original DOAE fan on my Pewter Mach1 but I do take a look at it when ever I'm under the hood poking around. I've owned 3 Gran Torino Sports of which one was involved in the fan fiasco, so I learned to be careful when near that area when the engine was running. Since these fans are metal and constantly flexing an occasional safety check is not a bad ideal.

 
sciabola13, a valid concern. Considering the tip speed of a rotating fan blade, a fractured piece breaking off becomes a very dangerous projectile. I listed the DOAE-A and D1AE-CA (DOAZ-8600-A) since they were they were the engineering numbers for the first fan to be eventually replaced by the then "New and Improved" 7 blade fan. There were no problems reported with the DOAE-D1AE that I am aware of. The problem started with the 7 blade flex fan that was originally production installed on the new 72 Gran Torino/Montego line and later phased in on other vehicle lines. The 5 blade flex fan issued after 72 that was supposed to be the "Fix" were the ones continuing to have fracturing problems.

I still have the original DOAE fan on my Pewter Mach1 but I do take a look at it when ever I'm under the hood poking around. I've owned 3 Gran Torino Sports of which one was involved in the fan fiasco, so I learned to be careful when near that area when the engine was running. Since these fans are metal and constantly flexing an occasional safety check is not a bad ideal.

What is the proper method for inspecting them, what should I look for?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 
The section of the blade shown in your photo has nice smooth edges, which is what you want all of the blades to look like. Any nicks, rough areas, creases, ridges, etc. can cause areas of stress and the formation of cracks. All of the rivets need to be tight and no major rust on the frame. The rust around your rivets is just surface rust. Any that show streaks of rust around them would indicate looseness. I would lightly tap on the frame with a screwdriver handle to see if you hear any rattles.

Minor nicks in airplane and boat propellors can be dressed to prevent cracking, but I don't believe it's possible with these, and wouldn't try it if it was. The cost of the risk is much greater than the cost of a replacement.

 
While these were a bit before my time, I worked at the factory where many if not all the flex fans were made. I have seen first hand the damage they can do WHEN they blow up in the test chambers. I have seen the blade go through 2" of oak, so your neck, well you figure it out. There are so many reasons why they break, but direction of the grain was critical as was the heat treating process. In my position at that company, I did not actually have any direct dealings with fans thank goodness, but I did learn a lot about why they should NOT be used, especially 40+ year old ones imo. They are just plain dangerous, period. Even running on a clutch-hub where the speeds may not be as high, I still would not use one.

If the car is a trailer queen that never runs, ok I guess, but on a driver, no way. Put a 4 blade solid fan on and forget it. Even those aluminum ones are crap and don't push enough air.

 
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Gotta agree here, the flex fans are best left on the shelf if you drive your car at all. Besides the potential failure issue at high rpms, the noise drives me bonkers. The four blader isn't much better.

My solution was a thermostatic clutch fan. The clutch you need IIRC is the Hayden 2710. The fan blade can be off of anything that fits in your shroud and matches the clutch. You can buy a new Hayden 18" 3618 fan blade at RockAuto for about $35.

 
Yes flex fans should have been banned years ago. I recently talked to an engineer buddy who had knowledge of flex fans back in the day though not directly working with them. He told me the BIG issue is they were designed for a specific engine's harmonics. In other words, you can't just go to the junk yard and pick one up and put it on whatever engine. If the harmonics are off, the blades are likely to blow up.

There was an engineer there, who's job was assessing law suits and preparing defense information for such claims. I'm hoping to get in touch with him for more frightening insight.

In the mean time, take it from knowledgeable sources that these thing are DANGEROUS and unless your car is a trailer queen, never driven with the engine revs much above idle. do not use them. It's your neck, literally.

 
Gotta agree here, the flex fans are best left on the shelf if you drive your car at all. Besides the potential failure issue at high rpms, the noise drives me bonkers. The four blader isn't much better.

My solution was a thermostatic clutch fan. The clutch you need IIRC is the Hayden 2710. The fan blade can be off of anything that fits in your shroud and matches the clutch. You can buy a new Hayden 18" 3620 fan blade at RockAuto for about $35.
A GOOD clutch fan may be a good answer as they only run when needed........ as long as the temp sensor mechanism is working correctly

 
Yup, that's why I gave a part number. At $25 from RockAuto, it doesn't make sense to even try used.
 Used would not be the way to go on something that reaches near super sonic speeds at the tips. They only need to be bent a fraction and the whole thing becomes a nightmare.

I agree, why buy used, but then again, a low price doesn't mean it's a good one. Sometime it pays to spend a few buck extra for a US or Canadian made item.

 
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