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Probably a silly question but still need to ask anyway.  I'm putting in an Autometer Electric Fuel Gauge to match the center gauges and was wondering about the hook up.  The gauge pod still has the factory speedo and the RCCI Tach conversion.  Do I need to hook it to the PCB or bypass that?  With the electric gauge, can I remove the PCB and hardwire the other items (ie lights, signals)?  I'm an aircraft avionics/electrician by trade so I have no problem with building a harness to bypass but would like the advice of others before going this route.

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If your new fuel gauge is expecting a 13-73 ohm Ford range for the sending unit, then use the PCB. If not, you'll need to wire it directly. The other thing to consider is what voltage the new gauge is expecting: 12V or 5V? Ford gauges expect 5V.

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If your new fuel gauge is expecting a 13-73 ohm Ford range for the sending unit, then use the PCB.  If not, you'll need to wire it directly.  The other thing to consider is what voltage the new gauge is expecting: 12V or 5V?  Ford gauges expect 5V.

 

Thanks.  I'm wanting to install the Autometer 2515 gauge.  I have attached the install instructions, but going by what you said, I'm not sure which way to go.  It is a 13-73 Ohm meter.  I'm assuming it's a 12V since it says to go to ignition switch.  Could you take a look at it and let me know?  Don't want to fry anything.

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Yes, you'll need to bypass the circuit card and use a full 12V. Search for a green/red or red/green wire coming from the ignition switch connector, or you can tap off of the ACC buss bar fuse (the angled piece on the fuse box) if you have that.

Let me check your shorts!

http://midlifeharness.com

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http://www.7173mustangs.com/banners/oldfart.png

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Yes, you'll need to bypass the circuit card and use a full 12V.  Search for a green/red or red/green wire coming from the ignition switch connector, or you can tap off of the ACC buss bar fuse (the angled piece on the fuse box) if you have that.

 

Thanks for the help and reassurance.

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