Garage, moisture, low temps and ventilation

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Vinnie

Project manager "Project AmsterFoose"
7173 Mustang Supporter Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2013
Messages
1,594
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286
Location
Amsterdam, The Netherlands
My Car
1973 Mustang Grande 351C 2V, built on the very last production day (July 6, 1973) for Grande's.
Hey folks,

Being the proud owner of my own brand new garage I am of course also facing certain challenges and I'm curious to read your opinions and/or experiences on the following issues...

Ventilation. Currently there is none, I'm about to order a vent hole/pipe in the roof (not mechanical, just a vent) because certain types of wood have green dust growing on them already! Everything feels dry, the green dust can be blown off into a green cloud (I can start Vincent's magic shop on the side, I guess), can't see any moisture but it's got me worried. Does anybody use non-mechanical ventilation in a non heated garage to their satisfaction?

Low temperatures. Winter is approaching and my garage has no floor insulation and no heating. Is this a problem? Also I got water works coming in. Could it freeze and snap?

Some additional info: my garage is in between 2 others. It's 3 metres wide, 10 metres deep and 8 metres tall so that's 240 cubic metres of space inside. The front and back are outside walls. The front has the garagedoor in it with the one and only vent currently (not enough I reckon).

Looking forward to reading your comments and ideas to (possibly) improve my garage :)

Thanks,

Vincent.

 
i don't understand why u want to vent the garage. going into winter and not heated your not going to paint. my garage (24'x40') is not vented and i have 2 heaters in it and i don't have an issue. if i'm working on a running engine i open both doors.. as far as the water issue, if u don't insulate and use a heat strip your gonna have a problem with freezing. i have water going to my garage and i blow it out and leave it till spring. it's not insulated or heat stripped either, but buried 3 ft deep and will be a major pain to replace.

 
http://www.mediamarkt.nl/nl/product/_qlima-d-510-1413014.html

or

http://www.mediamarkt.nl/nl/product/_qlima-d620-1528006.html

You can use one of these. Not only they remove/regulate moisture in the air, they also have the option to warm up the room (14 deg).

[dutch]

Ik heb eentje van ouder(3 of 4 jaar) van deze type, en je zal verbaast zijn van de volume hoeveelheid water dat ie uit de lucht trekt

Er zijn andere types, afhankelijk van volume van je kamer. Gezien je garage, eentje zoals deze zal prima zijn. Omdat new bouw is,

hoef je niet een super groot model.

[/dutch]

 
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I should have added: I'm not very often in my garage so I'm not heating it. Besides, with the ceiling 8 metres high I doubt I'd financially survive heating the place...

The garage is build without much air coming in so the warming up/cooling down makes the air trapped inside very humid, that's why (so I've read) good ventilation is required.

A dehumidifier might work

 
I am in Ontario, Canada; here is my plan each winter for the past 30years of car storage: insulated and dry walled garage. Insulated garage doors with exterior weatherstripping around the door edges. Concrete garage floor and I lay some form of a vapour barrier on the floor area where the car is parked. I try not to open the garage doors any longer then I have to during the winter. The key is keeping moisture out.  That's it.

 
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Vinnie,

I have a 50' X 80' with 14' eve height garage. It is insulated with 6" of insulation. The two garage doors are 14' X 12' and are foam core insulated with rubber seals up the sides. All my windows are double pane gas filled and the window frames are foam filled. Last year I only had a small space heater in the garage and it never got out of the 40's F when it was 5 F outside. I kept house plants in the garage and they did not freeze. I do have water in garage but put the frost free type connections so they do not freeze.

When they poured your floor if they did not put down gravel and then cover with plastic moisture will always wick up through the concrete. They even taped the joints in the plastic when they did mine. They also sealed my floor the day it was poured. I have had no moisture issues. It is a steel building.

If I were you I would put the dehumidifier in and it will automatically control the % of moisture in the air. This is link to large one I have in basement. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Frigidaire-70-Pint-2-Speed-Dehumidifier-ENERGY-STAR/50299673

If you have mold do not blow it around the shop. That is how it spreads through the spores. Lots of people think that chlorine bleach will kill mold on wood but it will not. Bleach molecules are too large to go into the fibers of the wood to kill the roots of the mold. Yes mold has roots. What we call dry rot in the U.S. is caused when the wood gets wet, grows mold from spores that float in and the roots eat the wood and make it decay.

Here in the U.S. you can buy Moldstat a brand of chemical that does kill the mold. They make a machine that makes a fog to do large areas or you can apply by hand for smaller areas. It works I had water pipe break in house while I was in China and had over a foot of water in basement and flooded three rooms. Took months to dry out and had to tear out the walls and remove wet insulation and treat with the Moldstat. They even suggest you seal the wood after that to protect for another attack. I actually just tore the floors out because of tongue and groove that you could not get into to treat. This is link to a site that sells the material I used and also has info that backs up the myth about bleach killing the mold. http://www.cleanertoday.com/mold-killer-moldstat-plus-p/moldstat16.htm

A good sized dehumidifier will also add some heat and might be all you need depending on how well insulated and how cold it gets. I have one in my basement that i do not have to empty it has a garden hose hooked to it and goes to a drain.

You might have to put an electrical heat tape and insulation on your water pipes to protect them. They also work off a thermostat so not on all the time.

I did purchase a good sized propane heater this summer to go in the garage to give some more heat. I have a separate room that I work in so I do not have to heat the entire garage to be comfortable to work in a shirt.

When working around the mold wear a mask to prevent getting into your lungs it can grow inside you also. Mold can be very dangerous depending on what type it is. Now is the time to fix the problem before it has done damage to your new garage.

The only time I might put a vent in would be if you are getting a build up of Radon Gas that happens in some areas of the U.S. coming from the rock in the ground.

 
I too live in frigged Ontario. My single car garage is attached to the house and I don't open doors any more than necessary either. I don't use anything under the car on a concrete floor. I'm not sure it makes that much difference as my garage is pretty dry, even at -5. If anything I should use a dehumidifier in summer as it does get pretty steamy in there. I just make sure my anti-freeze is up to snuff, up the pressure in my tires by a few pounds, (supposed to help stop flat spotting or so I'm told, but I've never had that issue before). I use a micro-fibre cover that I had made up from 3 blankets (Wal-Mart) and that's about it till spring.

The green stuff you're getting is likely because the wood is new and not yet properly dried out so a good well vented cover will protect the car from any residue.

Must be nice to have a garage you can actually work in, lots of headroom for a killer hoist!!

Geoff.

 
Vinnie,

I have a 50' X 80' with 14' eve height garage. It is insulated with 6" of insulation. The two garage doors are 14' X 12' and are foam core insulated with rubber seals up the sides. All my windows are double pane gas filled and the window frames are foam filled. Last year I only had a small space heater in the garage and it never got out of the 40's F when it was 5 F outside. I kept house plants in the garage and they did not freeze. I do have water in garage but put the frost free type connections so they do not freeze.

When they poured your floor if they did not put down gravel and then cover with plastic moisture will always wick up through the concrete. They even taped the joints in the plastic when they did mine. They also sealed my floor the day it was poured. I have had no moisture issues. It is a steel building.

If I were you I would put the dehumidifier in and it will automatically control the % of moisture in the air. This is link to large one I have in basement. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Frigidaire-70-Pint-2-Speed-Dehumidifier-ENERGY-STAR/50299673

If you have mold do not blow it around the shop. That is how it spreads through the spores. Lots of people think that chlorine bleach will kill mold on wood but it will not. Bleach molecules are too large to go into the fibers of the wood to kill the roots of the mold. Yes mold has roots. What we call dry rot in the U.S. is caused when the wood gets wet, grows mold from spores that float in and the roots eat the wood and make it decay.

Here in the U.S. you can buy Moldstat a brand of chemical that does kill the mold. They make a machine that makes a fog to do large areas or you can apply by hand for smaller areas. It works I had water pipe break in house while I was in China and had over a foot of water in basement and flooded three rooms. Took months to dry out and had to tear out the walls and remove wet insulation and treat with the Moldstat. They even suggest you seal the wood after that to protect for another attack. I actually just tore the floors out because of tongue and groove that you could not get into to treat. This is link to a site that sells the material I used and also has info that backs up the myth about bleach killing the mold. http://www.cleanertoday.com/mold-killer-moldstat-plus-p/moldstat16.htm

A good sized dehumidifier will also add some heat and might be all you need depending on how well insulated and how cold it gets. I have one in my basement that i do not have to empty it has a garden hose hooked to it and goes to a drain.

You might have to put an electrical heat tape and insulation on your water pipes to protect them. They also work off a thermostat so not on all the time.

I did purchase a good sized propane heater this summer to go in the garage to give some more heat. I have a separate room that I work in so I do not have to heat the entire garage to be comfortable to work in a shirt.

When working around the mold wear a mask to prevent getting into your lungs it can grow inside you also. Mold can be very dangerous depending on what type it is. Now is the time to fix the problem before it has done damage to your new garage.

The only time I might put a vent in would be if you are getting a build up of Radon Gas that happens in some areas of the U.S. coming from the rock in the ground.
 David as an FYI, Propane will generate a lot of moisture and humidity, not good for storage of classic cars. I had one in my garage for a short time, but took it out, They also burn up the oxygen very quickly in an enclosed area. Please be careful.

 
one advantage of living in the Arizona Desert. Althought the garage does get very hot in the summer. As long as the car is not out in direct sunlight it usually stays in pretty okay shape.

 
Everything is still fine except for the green dust on a certain type of wooden shelves. I’ve bought a device to measure the humidity. We’ll see.

 
Everything is still fine except for the green dust on a certain type of wooden shelves. I’ve bought a device to measure  the humidity. We’ll see.
It's important to note, a dehumidifier works best at a temperature above 60F. If you use is down near freezing, (30-50F) the condensate will ice up and not have time to thaw out.

I'm still searching for a clean Mach 1........ ::shrug::

 
I am in frigid Wisconsin. My garage is attached to the house. The doors are opened normally for our daily drivers. I have a ceiling gas heater that does a phenomenal job. Granted that my garage is insulated, doors insulated and drywalled. In the middle of winter sometimes I can crank the heat as high as 75 whenever I need to paint. I do this about a day in advance so the metal gets up to room temperature before painting. Otherwise the temp setting is between 55 and 65, depending on what type of work I am doing and how do I feel that night. The closer I am to the garage doors or outside walls, the cooler it gets. My thermostat is by the door to the house which is in the "warmest" area of the garage. Sometimes if I need a dosage of heat I turn my portable garage halogen light, which serves two purposes: light and heat.

 
This morning I got the roof vent installed (about 6" pipe). Humidity inside was thankfully down to 74% already (from 90% 2 weeks ago!) due to a few warm days we had over the weekend. I really hope this vent will make the humidity in my garage go down even more, fingers crossed! If it pans out not to be sufficient I'll also put in an electronic fan.

 
Update: Humidity has been hovering between 60 and 80% since and I haven't discovered any new mold growing anywhere so that's all good. The ventilation seems to be making a BIG difference!

 
Update: Humidity has been hovering between 60 and 80% since and I haven't discovered any new mold growing anywhere so that's all good. The ventilation seems to be making a BIG difference!
Vinnie:

If it has not already been mentioned there are small exhaust fans that operate off of a solar panel.  I bought one a while back for an detached shed with no power going to it but have not yet installed it.  Panel obviously goes outside and wires run in through the vent where you mount the fan.  I got it to keep some air flowing around that shed in the summer when it gets humid.

 
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