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Over tightened head bolts. What now?


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Hey guys

I over tightened my head bolts by 10 ft pounds.

 

I am so pissed. I did not read the torque wrench setting well and now head is at 115 ft pounds

 

What options do I have?

 

1 don't touch anything

2. Loosen them down to 90 and torque to 105

3. Take everything off and replace gaskets and bolts

 

Cheers

Alex

 

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10 too much is not that much too much - I would leave them as is. A big normal constructed torque wrench is always not as accurate and the original material does have some reserve...

Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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For cast iron heads with such large contact area, this little diff is nothing. What matters is that you have similar force applied on all bolts.

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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For cast iron heads with such large contact area, this little diff is nothing. What matters is that you have similar force applied on all bolts.

 

+1 Don't worry about it.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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You'll be fine. IIRC the Boss 351 spec'ed engine actually called for 115 at the head bolts anyway

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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If you had put moly lube on the bolts you might have gone too far. Engine oil on the threads I see no issue.

BTW did you run a tap in all the bolt holes before cleaning everything? You should always run taps in all the head bolt, intake bolt, exhaust bolt holes to clean the threads and get any rust or crud out. I always use some anti seize on the exhaust bolts and ones in the water pump that are into water jacket.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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If you had put moly lube on the bolts you might have gone too far. Engine oil on the threads I see no issue.

BTW did you run a tap in all the bolt holes before cleaning everything? You should always run taps in all the head bolt, intake bolt, exhaust bolt holes to clean the threads and get any rust or crud out. I always use some anti seize on the exhaust bolts and ones in the water pump that are into water jacket.

Hi

Yes, I did run a tap In all bolt holes.

 

I also torqued everything using this pattern ( see pic) . I did it in 3 stages. Bolts did not feel as if they were streching.

 

Alexecf5b8815167163ddaf380cd26b3cfcf.jpg

 

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Just a thought from my own past experience. When you put the intake down, whether it be the original Ford or aftermarket, with or without the valley pan, I suggest investing in a tube of "The Right Stuff" to seal the ends. RTV won't stand up as well and the rubber seals you get with the valley pan kits will almost certainly leak. Also RTV is not gas proof. I use Permatex2 around the intake faces and had no leak problems. That's been my experience anyway. Do as you feel you need to.

As for the torque, chances are your T/wrench is off that much (10Ft/Lbs) unless you have a very expensive one. Don't worry.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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I would run it.

'Mike'

73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

 

Pics of modifications included in: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1973-convertible--3335]My Garage[/button]

 

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