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Hello,

 

       Almost done installing new OEM leaf springs in my 73 convertible, standard ride and spring rate.  Car had original leaf springs.  Couple areas I have questions on. 1. All the instructions I could find advised to hand tighten all the nuts except the two shackle nuts on each side in the rear and then put the car on the ground to let the suspension settle ... then torque all the nuts with the car on the ground.  I tightened the shakle nuts to their correct tightness before putting car on the ground.  Does this sound correct ?  

 

2.  When I put the car on the ground I noticed that the right rear appeared noticably lower than the left rear, not level.  What would cause this ?  Does the car need to be drive to let the suspension settle into place ?  All the shocks and all the front end suspension pieces are new and professionaly installed.  The leaf springs were the last suspension items to be installed. 

 

3.  Would anyone have a need for an original set of Ford leaf springs for their restoration. I believe you can have them recurved, otherwise I guess I will take them to a scrap yard.  Any info. would be greatly appreciated .... thanks !

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When I did the leafs in my car, it took a little while for everything to level out, my drivers side was a little low. I too tightened everything per spec while the car was on stands and have had no issues. I would give it a little time and see what happens. Good luck!

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When I did the leafs in my car, it took a little while for everything to level out, my drivers side was a little low. I too tightened everything per spec while the car was on stands and have had no issues. I would give it a little time and see what happens. Good luck!

 

Thanks for the response !

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When I did the leafs in my car, it took a little while for everything to level out, my drivers side was a little low. I too tightened everything per spec while the car was on stands and have had no issues. I would give it a little time and see what happens. Good luck!

 

Thanks for the response !

 

Hello,

 

Does anyone have a good photo of how the original rear suspension set up on my car should look ?  Especially the spring clip brakets that hold the bottom end of the shock and spring clips.  Thanks

 

 

Stegve

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When I did the leafs in my car, it took a little while for everything to level out, my drivers side was a little low. I too tightened everything per spec while the car was on stands and have had no issues. I would give it a little time and see what happens. Good luck!

 

Thanks for the response !

 

Hello,

 

Does anyone have a good photo of how the original rear suspension set up on my car should look ?  Especially the spring clip brakets that hold the bottom end of the shock and spring clips.  Thanks

 

 

Stegve

You have lost me on the spring clips? Is your car a staggered shock with rear sway bar or just the standard? I have a 48,000 mile 73 vert but shocks have been changed.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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This should help. Pictures given to me of a unrestored very low mileage 73 vert 351C car.

 

1973_ford_mustang_shock_plate_u_bolt.jpg

 

1973_ford_mustang_shock.jpg

 

090212_313.jpg

 

090212_325.jpg

 

090212_328.jpg

 

090212_355.jpg

1973 H Code Convertible - Medium Copper Metallic - June 8, 1973, Built Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle

DSC_0266xsm.jpg

satellite.png Proud Space Junk Award Winner!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks for the response !

 

Hello,

 

Does anyone have a good photo of how the original rear suspension set up on my car should look ?  Especially the spring clip brakets that hold the bottom end of the shock and spring clips.  Thanks

 

 

Stegve

You have lost me on the spring clips? Is your car a staggered shock with rear sway bar or just the standard? I have a 48,000 mile 73 vert but shocks have been changed.

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Hello,

 

Standard 73 convertible, no sway bar ...shocks are both forward of the rear axle and mount to the bracket under the axle that also has the ubolts attached to it. Thanks

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Tighten the nut on the front eye bolt to just past finger-tight, as well as the shackle nuts. Lower the car to the ground, and drive (gingerly) around the block a couple of times. By this time (just a couple of miles), the car will have settled to its natural state. Then tighten all nuts/bolts to specification without lifting the car off the ground.

 

Be sure to use anti-seize on the front eye bolt as it goes through the spring eye. Your grand-kids will appreciate that effort in another 20 years or so.

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Tighten the nut on the front eye bolt to just past finger-tight, as well as the shackle nuts.  Lower the car to the ground, and drive (gingerly) around the block a couple of times.  By this time (just a couple of miles), the car will have settled to its natural state.  Then tighten all nuts/bolts to specification without lifting the car off the ground.

 

Be sure to use anti-seize on the front eye bolt as it goes through the spring eye.  Your grand-kids will appreciate that effort in another 20 years or so.

 

One question, should the u-bolt nouts be torqued to specs with car in air or torqued after the short drive ?  thanks 

 

steve

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+1, then retorque then after a few miles.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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+1, then retorque then after a few miles.

 

Great ... thanks.  Let you all know how it goes when finished.

 

Hello,

 

       I got everything back together correctly, torqued the u-bolt nuts and shock absorber nuts to specs.  Left the eye bolt and shackle bolts finger tight and took the car for a few mile ride with some turns, braking etc. to set the suspension.  Here is the issue, the passenger side rear body is still app. 1" lower than the driver's side. Meaning distance between top of tire and wheel well opening.  This issue was present prior to replacing the leaf springs.  Any idea as to what could be causing this ??? All of the suspension componenets front and rear are all new.  Thanks for your help !

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+1, then retorque then after a few miles.

 

Great ... thanks.  Let you all know how it goes when finished.

 

Hello,

 

       I got everything back together correctly, torqued the u-bolt nuts and shock absorber nuts to specs.  Left the eye bolt and shackle bolts finger tight and took the car for a few mile ride with some turns, braking etc. to set the suspension.  Here is the issue, the passenger side rear body is still app. 1" lower than the driver's side. Meaning distance between top of tire and wheel well opening.  This issue was present prior to replacing the leaf springs.  Any idea as to what could be causing this ??? All of the suspension componenets front and rear are all new.  Thanks for your help !

 

could your car have been rear ended in the past and the frame is bent  measure from the ground  to various places on the frame and compare

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Maybe try on a flat level surface (garage floor) measure the hight from frame rail to floor in front near jacking location on each side and in back in front of the leaf spring mount. See if there is much difference from side to side. LF & RF should be the same and so should the LB RB. Something to compare it to. Just in case there is something else going on that's causing the difference from tire top to well cut out.

 

You could use the pinch weld where the rocker and floor meet instead of the frame rails.

1973 H Code Convertible - Medium Copper Metallic - June 8, 1973, Built Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle

DSC_0266xsm.jpg

satellite.png Proud Space Junk Award Winner!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Hello,

 

I measured from floor to the bottom of wheel opening straight up thru the center hub on all wheels. Both front are equal at 25.75, passenger rear is 26.75 and driver's rear is 27.25 for a difference of .50" Seems like the rear might have settled in a little as the gap is now app. .50 smaller. Distance from top of tire to wheel lip is 1 4/8" on driver's side and 1 1/8" on passenger side. As far as I know no damage/accident and after looking under rear does not appear to be any structural damage. I also measured from the front jack points on both sides and they were an 1/8" apart or less. The passenger rear jack point was 3/8" lower than the driver's side.

 

Based on all these measurments I would think that the issue is in the rear of the car. Maybe this is just the quality of the build from 1973. I will re-check the measurements over the next few days to see if they improve as I will be driving it some more now that I have torqued the rest of the nuts on the eye bolts and the rear shackles. Open to any advice as always ... thanks.

 

sTeve

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Something I always do with leaf springs is not only to make sure they are from the same supplier, etc, but to flip them up on the spring eyes and make sure the free height is close to identical. If it's more the 1/4" off, I would ask them to get me another pair to match up. I'm local that Mustangs Unlimited is local and I can go pic my stuff up, so this may not work for everyone.

 

 

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I agree with Hemikiller.. During the manufacturing process, there could have been a mistake in labeling the springs using the same part number, but different tensions in the leafs.. It only takes a short time to pull those leaf strings back out and compare the arc. If the arcs are matching, then there is rear body damage.. The car could have been rear-ended at some point in it's life and has a bent rail.

The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person doing it. 

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I agree with Hemikiller.. During the manufacturing process, there could have been a mistake in labeling the springs using the same part number, but different tensions in the leafs.. It only takes a short time to pull those leaf strings back out and compare the arc.  If the arcs are matching, then there is rear body damage.. The car could have been rear-ended at some point in it's life and has a bent rail.

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Hello,

 

The issue with unequal rear height was there before I put the new springs in, sure it is not an issue with the new springs. They are from a very reliable manufacturer. I did not specifically compare them before installation but they were side by side at one point and I don't recall any issues. Have double checked and they are the correct part. As far as I know no rear end collision, and no obvious damage under the rear body. Wonder if this is just how this car sits. Otherwise it rides fine and I can feel an improvement in the ride since installing the new leaf springs. Drove the car this morning probably about 25-30 miles and the measurements did not change. Thanks for the input !

 

Steve

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