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72 mach 1 Grandmas original first car


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I should clarify, grandma is granddads 3rd wife and a lot younger than him but still married before I was born.

 

Ughhhhhhhhh I'm pissed of and need to let it out to the atmosphere. As many of you have read I've been working on the resto of my grandmothers very first new car. It  was a survivor until some bad decisions on trusting her brother were made and it took over a decade to recover it. The recovered vehicle was ratted out and I took it on as a project because it meant so much to her. Over ten years ago now I started and one of my first projects was to pull the motor and start to rework it. I took great care in finding the right parts for the performance the car really deserved and the reliability it needed. After finding the right machine guy, getting the work done, finding the right cnc shop in Australia........for a US car for the heads, a powder coater for everything that needed it, including the block, yes the block is actually powder coated 5 friends and I turned my garage into a cleanroom and spent a weekend, many beers, and a ton of time assembling everything together, torqueing to exact spec and rechecking everything top to bottom. Then we sealed it all up and it sat for a long time, safely in my garage mainly due to the lack of parts available at the time for certain componenets that were completely rotted or gone.

Finally the car was in full body work and resto, and the shop that was doing it took total advantage of the grandparents, think gt350 concourse money and what I finally took out of there was most of a shell with the hood and little extra body fillers unpainted and unattached, no interior, tires, rims, plumbing of any kind, exhaust, steering, etc etc.

The car went to another shop, a good shop, one that is run by someone who actually cares and does a good job, the engine is ready to be fired, the steering and almost everything else is done, so we turn it over, boom oil pressure shoots up and blows out the filter ring, a little testing later and it must be a bad oil pump right, lets replace it. We pull the pan and look at that.........grit.......

Engine goes back to the machine shop, to someone naturally detailed enough to take a close look. Someone in the crappy shop, opened up my clean room engine, and let it sit, in an open shop, body work, paint, assembly, fabrication its all in there. Machine shop was shocked that it was that filled with crap and had never been run.

 

 

SOOOOOOOOOOOOo ANGRYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY!!!!!!!!  :@ :shootself:

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Sorry to see this...you probably needed to vent and let people that have gone through such hear the frustration.

 

Don't know if you want to talk more or "you know what to do"...USUALLY we don't get the entire story RATHER just the results of doing the wrong thing. (guys that think they can flush in car and it will be ok).

 

What everyone needs to think about is for some this is a 3 or 4 day , motor out, disassemble/inspect and clean then reassemble. Costing only time and gasket kit. (Maybe bearings if any sign of damage). For others it can be a OH - I can't deal with that now thought that this will be another YEAR to my project and very very disturbing. I WOULD LIKE TO add support that it doesn't have to be that!

 

Good luck hopefully it will just cost alot of CRC 556 to flush!

 

Mark

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Sorry to see this...you probably needed to vent and let people that have gone through such hear the frustration.

 

Don't know if you want to talk more or "you know what to do"...USUALLY we don't get the entire story RATHER just the results of doing the wrong thing.   (guys that think they can flush in car and it will be ok).

 

What everyone needs to think about is for some this is a 3 or 4 day , motor out, disassemble/inspect and clean then reassemble.  Costing only time and gasket kit. (Maybe bearings if any sign of damage).  For others it can be a OH - I can't deal with that now thought that this will be another YEAR to my project and very very disturbing.   I WOULD LIKE TO add support that it doesn't have to be that!

 

Good luck hopefully it will just cost alot of CRC 556 to flush!

 

Mark

 

sadly no, full motor out, new gaskets, washing out all the pathways, new bearings, re-honing cylinders, polishing crank, thankfully my engine machine shop is good to me so its not killer but still 1200-1300 in repairs before its ever fired and allowed to break in.

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  • 3 weeks later...

So heres where I'm at and whats happened, engine was full of metal shavings......oddly not from the engine (wanna smack someone). That's been taken care of, and the engine is back in, fired and its really really nice. After finding the correct front glass thank god (refer to other posts) this mustang is almost complete. I know I've been stingy on photos, as in none at all of resto but they are coming, and I promise they will be magnificent.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Ok still held up by a couple of little items, the wheels and tires are on backorder, the exhaust tips are not here yet, so no exhaust, free flowing headers, décor trim still not on, the original air cleaner is going to have to go, and shes dirty, really dirty but finally some progress pics.

IMG_3541.jpg

 

IMG_3543.jpg

 

IMG_3545.jpg

 

IMG_3547.jpg

 

IMG_3548.jpg

and finally a video, remember NO exhaust AT ALL

 

https://www.dropshots.com/libram11

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  • 8 months later...

just some additional notes, the engine is too strong :) I've got to put silencers in the exhaust, its not just nasty rumbling loud but over 45 its unbearably loud. Also I've got some minor problems with the cosmetics of the rim blow wheel. The chrome strip has peeled off on the bottom portion. Anyone have any NC local suggestions for cosmetic repair on a rim blow wheel?

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Looks great!

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Car is looking great.

Sorry no suggestions on the rib blow. I doubt if anyone would ever notice it. Normal people do not look at details only MCA judges that have to find something wrong.

One of the biggest mistakes people make when doing a restore is that they do the drive train first. That should be the last thing you do. Yes tear it down and check to see what is needed but do not build the engine. It will sit there with the cam holding some of the valves open and all the cam lube will get dry.

When you take a car to a shop for work you should do weekly checks and only pay as work is completed. Have a written and signed agreement with the shop and make the person doing the work sign also with a personal commitment. If they will not do that then leave.

There was a local guy here that took hundreds of thousands of dollars from customers that got nothing but promises. There was no personal recourse since he had a LLC to hide behind and just went under. The customers were doing business with the LLC not him.

You can build a transmission or rear but do not assemble your engine until the body is ready. You should also find someone that can break in the engine on dyno or run in stand before putting in the car. I laugh at the guys on TV that are Professionals. They put engine in and coolant everywhere or it will not run. Then you get a big mess on your nice clean car.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Looks excellent. I like the red exterior.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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so here's an interesting note, apparently I built the motor so strong flowmaster 50 series cant handle the exhaust, its unbearably loud. At idle its mean, really mean, but at 45 mph its hard to concentrate. So, next step, lets put dynomax turbo mufflers behind a 500 hp Cleveland and see if its workable. If that fails to take the db's down enough i'll let you all know how well cc inserts work. I'll take some db measurements for reference as I go and report here.

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So are you signed up for track day in April for the MOM Mustang Owner's Museum 55 ann. meet? Get to run the Roval at the Charlotte track. Need more mustangs to break the current world record for most in a parade. Believe it or not Mexico holds the record I think 900 + and they only have 400 signed up so far. Depending on your tires, belts and equipment on your car they set max speed you can run.

Do you have a drive shaft loop on the car? Might better put one on with that much hp kicking around.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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I'm not really all that into Concord Motor Speedway having grown up almost beside it and family having ties with Humpy all the way back to the initial construction. As far as the car and running it around any track its far from ready for that, I'm just running it along surface streets and looking for issues, haven't even tried the interstates yet and I'm glad i didn't with the idle arm failure, I would have been doing 70+ and lost 1/2 steering. I actually don't have a drive shaft loop in place but since you bring it up its probably not a bad idea. This weekend is replacement of the idle arm, switching the speedo gear and taking out the flowmaster 50 series and switching to dynomax turbo mufflers ( I built the motor so strong she refuses to drive it because its too loud :) On that note it the turbo turn out well I'll have a brand new set of flowmaster 50's for 2.5 inch pipes if anyone is interested.

 

I know some will question wtf I'm thinking but seriously its unbearably loud, I'll take some db measurements and post em just for giggles.

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  • 6 months later...

I know I've been gone for a good while but hey, life...…… I did actually switch the mufflers to turbos and its pretty damn sweet in my opinion. Grandma still thinks its a bit loud but after I took her out to dinner in it and she became the woman to ask about the sick muscle car that came to the door of the restaurant and picked her up she is becoming more open to how its setup now. Couple little things are creeping up though so if anyone (specifically MIDLIFE) has any input I'd apprecieate it. 

I noticed the headlights are coming in an out, as in not always on, any major culprits to check first? Also even though the car can sit for 3-7 days and not show any real drain on the battery sometimes, even in a few days the battery can be nearly dead, to the point that the clock in the dash wont even run. All the grounds are solid as that was a possible issue I found that could have caused some whackiness, but its still popping up. Any suggestions of a particular switch/relay/ whatever that could be the culprit of a slow drain?

Also a set of mach1 tips and flowmaster 50's are still available if anyone is interested.

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The headlight switch has a circuit breaker built into it, that if it's overloaded or weak, will pop and reset. If you haven't replaced it yet, you could try a top quality switch from Standard pt# DS-148

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=43501&cc=1197806&jsn=675

 

However, the true fix is to a relay harness that pulls power directly from the battery. Midlife has a how-to on his website.

 

http://midlife66.com/wiring/halrelays.html

 

or you can get a custom made one from Daniel Stern Lighting.

 

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

 

To verify the suspected draw, use a multimeter to measure the amperage draw with everything off, doors closed etc. If you do have a draw, start pulling fuses one by one until you see a change in the current. The shop manual will tell you what accessories are on the circuit powered by that fuse, so you know where to start.

 

 

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I hate electrical bugs, lol. One thing I have on my car is a quick disconnect on the battery. I never leave battery hooked up some little critter get in there and chew the wrong thing. Also you can unscrew the connection and put in your pocket at shows or when out in town. You can steal one of these cars in less than 10 seconds with one piece of wire to hook up coil to battery and short the solenoid and away you go.

Heck I took the vert to Lowe's yesterday to get an outside faucet. I have two sets of keys for the car the PO changed the ignition switch so door and switch do not match and I have not taken time to repin it. I locked the door key up in the console of the car. So I went back in Lowe's bought a short piece of 1/8" brass rod went by tools and bent a hook on end with needle nose pliers. Went to the car and in 3 seconds had the door open.

I might head down to MOM in June to a Ford day at the museum. I need to check on my car there also. Would love to see your car the show at the MOM, Mustang Owner's Museum is free but charge to get into MOM. Probably going to drive the 73 vert has not had any issues in this 90 deg. heat we are having so would trust on the 200 + mile trip. It starts early at 7:30 to 12:00 I believe. Too hot to be out long.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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I hate electrical bugs, lol. One thing I have on my car is a quick disconnect on the battery. I never leave battery hooked up some little critter get in there and chew the wrong thing. Also you can unscrew the connection and put in your pocket at shows or when out in town. You can steal one of these cars in less than 10 seconds with one piece of wire to hook up coil to battery and short the solenoid and away you go.

Heck I took the vert to Lowe's yesterday to get an outside faucet. I have two sets of keys for the car the PO changed the ignition switch so door and switch do not match and I have not taken time to repin it. I locked the door key up in the console of the car. So I went back in Lowe's bought a short piece of 1/8" brass rod went by tools and bent a hook on end with needle nose pliers. Went to the car and in 3 seconds had the door open.

I might head down to MOM in June to a Ford day at the museum. I need to check on my car there also. Would love to see your car the show at the MOM, Mustang Owner's Museum is free but charge to get into MOM. Probably going to drive the 73 vert has not had any issues in this 90 deg. heat we are having so would trust on the 200 + mile trip. It starts early at 7:30 to 12:00 I believe. Too hot to be out long.

 

What about the column lock  ??? 

Can't steer or get it in gear. These were high tech theft proof autos

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