Duplicating Stamped Numbers

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Location
Blue Springs, MO
My Car
1971 Mach 1, Grabber Blue w/Argent stripes. Original 2V 351C Auto, Tilt, rear defog, Black Comfortweave Interior. Under restoration. Original colors, 4V 351C, 4-Speed, Spoilers, Magnums, Ram Air. All Ford parts.
Good day everyone.  I am at a point of discovery again.

Regarding the factory stamps on components, how do all of you duplicate them?   Is tehre a cheap stamp kit at Hobby Lobby?  Anyone have a used stamp kit they want to sell?

I have noticed different sized stamps.  the ones I wish to do are on the air cleaner snorkle, and the ones on the headlight boxes.  Not sure if I will need one for the hood latch assy.

What do you guys do?  Any help is appreciated, and I figure it will be a good resources to share with others on the forum.

kcmash



 
Figuring out the correct font and size can take some time. Make sure the information in the stamp is correct (PN date, etc). I had the stamps made locally and found the proper paint on-line. It is a tedious and time consuming process. Chuck

 
Good day everyone.  I am at a point of discovery again.

Regarding the factory stamps on components, how do all of you duplicate them?   Is tehre a cheap stamp kit at Hobby Lobby?  Anyone have a used stamp kit they want to sell?

I have noticed different sized stamps.  the ones I wish to do are on the air cleaner snorkle, and the ones on the headlight boxes.  Not sure if I will need one for the hood latch assy.

What do you guys do?  Any help is appreciated, and I figure it will be a good resources to share with others on the forum.

kcmash

Kcmash,

I have done a lot trial and error reproducing stampings... I have used a number of methods to get a good reproduction of the original stamp or mark: 1) a good straight on close up picture of the original stamp or mark and then I use a photo editor to zoom, crop and clean it up; 2) scan it and use photo editor software to clean it up; 3) use a computer font and just match it as close as possible to the original, then create my own image file. I then print them to confirm I have reproduced the image as close as possible to size and spacing. The final step is to invert or flip the stamp image.

To make the stamp from the image, I use Rubberstamps.net (Hobby section) online ordering to upload the image and select the stamp size and image sizing.  I usually just order the rubber stamp pad without the stamper and use my own rubber padding and wood block (see the pics below). Rubberstamps.net will not reproduce trademarks and registered logos (i.e. Ford oval). Its really not much work or cost with a little practice. Here are some examples of what I have reproduced....

I have tried to use off the shelf stampers for a few things, but its hard to match them to the fonts needed and get the right combination of letters, numbers, spaces.

I also reproduced my own decals and labels. As well as I have done my own Window Sticker and Buildsheet with very good results. https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-all-about-build-sheets?page=8&highlight=build+sheet

Rich























uploading a image

 
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Still catching up on some of the older posts I missed.

I do not know if any of you ever need metal stamps to add date codes or change date codes on body panels. The source for metal stamps used in Ford tooling is Argon Tool Company. http://www.argontool.com/custom-steel-stamps.php

You can order any size even the Ford Logo stamps. You can make any panel date correct for your car if you want and is done on most of those all numbers matching cars all the time. It is not illegal to do. You can weld up incorrect numbers grind and put the codes you need back in. If it is your car you can do as you desire. You are not allowed to alter VIN# but you can even get a new VIN# tag for your dash and door from Marti. I think the dash tag is like $500 and you do have to supply sufficient documentation to prove ownership.

David

 
No doubt how many of these cars which were originally purchased to be thrashed end up with a numbers-matching engine 45 years later... heh

 
you all are wayyyyyyy to intricate for me, I just want her to look good, seem stock, and drive like a bat outta hell. (my numbers match) sure they might match whats stored in a corner of the garage but the numbers match lol, stamps..............oh screw that.

 
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Well I am impressed with Rich's work!!

It's funny while everyone has their "tastes" usually restorers

thend to build cars and rarely have to "explain" deviation from details .

With documented restoration it is either right or wrong! I guess that is the same when someone

uses Chevy parts on a Ford (most know)!

IS THAT A BOB HOYT "inspection sticker" ???? I too like those - BUT my rub is they are all the same "number" (state stamp)!

Mark



 
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Hey, I happen to enjoy researching and reproducing all the original paint marks and stamps as much as I do the rest of the car.

I grew up in New Jersey. My car was sold in New Jersey on June 11th 1973. I wanted a June 1974 expiration on the inspection sticker, so I researched what the color NJ used back then for that month and year. I reproduced it from a similar NJ sticker image I found online, but that sticker was blue and had a different year. I used a graphics software to create a June 1974 sticker in the correct yellow. I used an old original NJ sticker that was on my car's windshield to duplicate the back of the sticker and to get the correct size. I flipped or "mirrored" the image and ink jet printed it on transparent adhesive paper. The back was printed on standard label paper and sprayed with a clear enamel to waterproof the ink. Then I just put the two parts together and cut it to size. It's just another little detail that I had fun reproducing.

Changing colors and number is not all that hard with a little practice. I have reproduced all kinds of stickers for other folks, some are forum members.

Rich



 
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I would agree with Chuck and Rich. It does take some time and some research to get it right. I had a local contact who would match the font and size to the parts I brought her. She has since gone out of business so the next one (if there is one) will be a little more challenging. I like Rich's process although I am not a graphics specialist as much as he.



 
more power to you guys, I just cant lol. more than ten years into this sucker just to get it physically right with bolt ons (I'm gonna call some internals bolt ons.......they have bolts:) ) on the engine and lookin good with a better more driveable stance and I'm gonna stick there.

 
libram, entirely understandable. Your car at your pace. From dis-assembly in 2009 to the 50th celebration in Charlotte in 2014 mine was a tedious 5 year project. Remember these are our cars and our lives to be completed how we would like them and at our individual timelines. Sometimes, life happens and you just need to step away for a little while. It is worth it in the end when you can step back and marvel at your accomplishment.

 
Thought I would toss this picture into the mix. It is my one owner 1973 Mach 1 the wiper motor has date on the end and not the body of the motor. It is intermittent wipers also might make a difference.

David

David, I have seen originals stamped both ways, all with an orange dot on the side. The motor was the same for the standard two speed or the optional intermittent. The difference with the Intermittent wiper was in the switch combined with a governor (i think it was called) under the dash.





 
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I have not found one off the shelf. It would be easy enough and not very expensive to have a custom rubber stamp made. I have had others made, see my post earlier in this thread.

 
Can someone please post a detail picture of the spring orientation for a headlight bucket?  I lost the orientation for mine and can't figure it out.

Thanks!

kcmash

 
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