Rust Encapsulator, Undercoating, etc

Anyone on here have any experience with using a rust encapsulator like this one that Eastwood sells?  

Rust Encapsulator Spray

I have an original hood that sounds kind of rusty inside...  If I cleaned it out as much as possible would this REALLY stop that rust from continuing to eat away at my hood?  Or am I better off finding another hood off a donor car or buying a repro?

Or how about this Rust Encapsulator Undercoating?

Rust Encapsulator Undercoating

How about seam sealer and primer?  Are there any go to brands, best value, best overall experience, etc?  After I get a part or an area cleaned up I'll want to get primer on it ASAP so these are all things I'm trying to figure out before I get to that point.  

Eastwood also sells engine paint in both ceramic Ford Blue and Ford Dark Blue.  Has anybody used this paint on their engine and I'm assuming it would be the Ford "Dark Blue" correct?

Thanks for the input guys!

I've never been a big fan of trying to spray over/hide the rust. How bad is the inside of the hood. Is it just surface rust? You can have it dipped or even what has been posted on here before and make up a solution of Feed grade molasses and water in a (VERY LARGE tank) and soak for several days and it will remove all the rust without damaging the paint. I believe the molasses mixture it 1 part molasses to 10 parts water.

I've never been a big fan of trying to spray over/hide the rust. How bad is the inside of the hood. Is it just surface rust? You can have it dipped or even what has been posted on here before and make up a solution of Feed grade molasses and water in a (VERY LARGE tank) and soak for several days and it will remove all the rust without damaging the paint. I believe the molasses mixture it 1 part molasses to 10 parts water.

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If I shake the hood it sounds like I'm sifting sand/grit inside the hood.

I've never been a big fan of trying to spray over/hide the rust. How bad is the inside of the hood. Is it just surface rust? You can have it dipped or even what has been posted on here before and make up a solution of Feed grade molasses and water in a (VERY LARGE tank) and soak for several days and it will remove all the rust without damaging the paint. I believe the molasses mixture it 1 part molasses to 10 parts water.

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If I shake the hood it sounds like I'm sifting sand/grit inside the hood.

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 Can you get all the lose rust somewhere where you can get a vacuum cleaner nozzle in to get the worst of it out? You could also blow a lot of it out, but be cautious not to blow it in your face!! The hood needs to off the car imo.

In Canada, we have a product made by Rust Check Corp, called Rust Converter and it may be available in the US. I believe it is available in larger quantities or a spray can. I have used this product and it works to kill rust and leave a paintable surface. Then I use Por 15 to make sure. I'm not sure if it will damage the paint though. As a suggestion, you could make or get a long spray wand, or even use a garden sprayer to get right in there. Nothing worse than opening a hood and hear all that crud floating around.

Geoff.

I am currently cleaning some body parts for a 1965 mustang convertible and also a full dash for 72 convertible. I use the molasses method. I have a 275 gallon bulk plastic tank with the molasses in it. I get the molasses at the local feed store for less than $20.00 for 5 gallons of liquid. You mix 9 parts water to one part molasses so a 5 gallon container of molasses gets you 50 gallons of liquid. It is slow as molasses but cheap. I am still searching for a plastic container large enough to get and entire hood into. You cannot use metal the molasses with eventually eat through the steel. Hey we eat it full strength, lol. The wires I use to hang parts with have to be tossed after several weeks in the solution they eat away.

I put a body part in for usually 2 weeks and then take out and pressure wash. I then wipe down with phosphate solution and steel wool a couple times. I pour POR inside and tilt the panel around to get it in the seam to seal it. I am also going to order some of the wands so I can spray inside the reinforcements.

If you get a new panel that has been through e-coat if will still not have any paint inside and will start to rust immediately. The last trunk I did was a red oxide primer replacement that was in great shape after the molasses. Since who ever painted the trunk years ago did not prep properly most of the paint came off with the pressure wash. I used a razor blade to shave most of the paint off then used liquid stripper to get to the metal that phosphate wash. The parts can have no grease or oil on them and it does not remove paint unless there is rust under it. Sometimes you have to go back in but there is no effort so I have something in the tank all the time. Got a rear bumper in there now and a full dash panel. The dash was not painted on the back side so when it comes out phosphate then satin clear to seal it. I do magnum 500 wheels and they look new. I can only get about 2/3 of a part in tank now so you have to prime area done then go back in to finish. Too cold here for paint right now so I just phosphate and POR and let sit till spring.

As far as seam sealer 3-M I always use. They have some 2 part seam sealers that work great and of course the old standby brush on sealer.

I hate rust.... I hate labor and this has the least cost and labor I have found to get you some spotless sheet metal.

If anyone knows of a tall think plastic container that could do a hood I need to know I have like 6 hoods I need to prep. If I use a kids swimming pool difficult to get the air out of the reinforcement. When on end it has weep holes that let the air out.

I also have a 50 gallon garbage can inside the big tank had a foot of ice in it once this year.

You need to follow your paint MFG. instructions for the use of their products. Soda blasting will cause you severe paint issues unless the proper steps are taken to kill the soda deposits on the metal. Plastic media is much better choice and never use sand or glass beads on a body part it will be scrap if you do.

David

Soda blasting will cause you severe paint issues unless the proper steps are taken to kill the soda deposits on the metal. Plastic media is much better choice and never use sand or glass beads on a body part it will be scrap if you do.

David

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How about blasting rusted areas with aluminum oxide?  Will that mess up body parts as well?  How about when blasting the underbody components such as crossmember, suspension components, etc.?

What David is describing when blasting metal with glass beads or sand is the possibility of warping relatively thin sheet metal. Blasting is not a problem for metal gauges 15 or thicker. 19 gauge is typical for Mustang sheet metal. Blasting can be done, but one has to be extremely careful not to stay in one spot too long which induces heat and panel warping.

I have the same problem with my standard hood, sounds like a big salt shaker, so I've decided to get a repro NASA hood

Problem is most of the rust is underneath the inner frame and very difficult to get anything in there to remove it let alone paint over it easily

Probably your best bet is David's molasses bath, I've used this method for smaller parts and works well

Perhaps buy a cheap toddlers wading pool, soak the hood in that and perhaps drill a few small holes to let the mixture get inside the frame better

Then thoroughly clean and blow the debris out

You should be able to then spray some encapsulator product through the holes using an extension tube which will help protect it

POR15 is a good product but pricey, I use Bill Hershey's Miracle paint which seems a good product and not too expensive

I have the same problem with my standard hood, sounds like a big salt shaker, so I've decided to get a repro NASA hood

Problem is most of the rust is underneath the inner frame and very difficult to get anything in there to remove it let alone paint over it easily

Probably your best bet is David's molasses bath, I've used this method for smaller parts and works well

Perhaps buy a cheap toddlers wading pool, soak the hood in that and perhaps drill a few small holes to let the mixture get inside the frame better

Then thoroughly clean and blow the debris out

You should be able to then spray some encapsulator product through the holes using an extension tube which will help protect it

POR15 is a good product but pricey, I use Bill Hershey's Miracle paint which seems a good product and not too expensive

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I never thought about using a wading pool. That is a good idea.

I have the same problem with my standard hood, sounds like a big salt shaker, so I've decided to get a repro NASA hood

Problem is most of the rust is underneath the inner frame and very difficult to get anything in there to remove it let alone paint over it easily

Probably your best bet is David's molasses bath, I've used this method for smaller parts and works well

Perhaps buy a cheap toddlers wading pool, soak the hood in that and perhaps drill a few small holes to let the mixture get inside the frame better

Then thoroughly clean and blow the debris out

You should be able to then spray some encapsulator product through the holes using an extension tube which will help protect it

POR15 is a good product but pricey, I use Bill Hershey's Miracle paint which seems a good product and not too expensive

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I never thought about using a wading pool. That is a good idea.

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You can buy feed grade molasses at Tractor Supply and yes, it works great at stripping rust. I soaked a rusty 302 block in it for about three weeks, It stripped all of the rust both externally and in the water jackets. My machinist couldn't believe it. It is non toxic and bio degradable.

You can also soak steel parts in white vinegar. Just don't immerse cast iron in it.

hey david, they aren't cheap, and you would have to build a reinforcement but.........it will fit a hood nose down, might have a tiny corner out but really pretty much all in

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/files/drawings/13791.pdf

Soda blasting will cause you severe paint issues unless the proper steps are taken to kill the soda deposits on the metal. Plastic media is much better choice and never use sand or glass beads on a body part it will be scrap if you do.

David

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How about blasting rusted areas with aluminum oxide?  Will that mess up body parts as well?  How about when blasting the underbody components such as crossmember, suspension components, etc.?

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The only type media that can be used on exterior sheet metal is soda or plastic. NEITHER REMOVES RUST. Sand or aluminum oxide will hammer and warp the metal. Some blasters will tell you they can do it and not warp but they cannot. Take them a flat piece of metal and have them blast it and see what happens.

My friend with the restoration shop had customer on his own take a 240 Z and had it blasted. It is destined for the crusher now cannot be fixed....

You can blast under body like frame but is still stresses the metal and can twist even that metal. It is like thousands of ball peen hammers hitting the surface and stretching it on one side so that makes it warp and oil can. Dipping in chemical bath or molasses is only safe way to remove rust without warping. Chemical removes the sealer also.

There is no perfect way even if you find a NOS hood it will be rusty inside to some extent never painted inside. Do not let anyone tell you that you can blast and not warp it is a matter of physics equal and opposite reaction it warps.

David

David, How about building a wood box a little larger than a hood and deeper than the thickness of a door or fender. Then line it with heavy plastic or a above ground pool liner. Would not need a bottom if the wood frame and liner were set on a hard flat surface. Could cover it with the same plastic liner to keep debris out.

Would this work?

depends on the chemical makeup of the liner, gotta have the same properties as PVC, should work so long as the plastic is right, but also 75+ gallons is a lotta weight for wood to hold in without puncturing a liner.