408 Stroker parts discussion

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Joined
Aug 14, 2014
Messages
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Location
Madison, WI
My Car
1971 Mach 1 w/408C stroker
My 408C-4V is coming back from the shop soon. I will be receiving all the pieces and assembling it all.

The rotating assembly and internals are coming from TMeyer, which is work in progress as we speak. More information on these to come.

I am not completely decided on some of the peripherals so this thread is to seek opinions.

Edit:

As an idea, the goal of the build is to be a ~475-500 HP engine with factory 4V valves. It will be topped off with a BlueThunder manifold and the FiTech EFI. I am using Hooker Comp headers. All these were in my 351C. The valve train would be hydraulic roller with the camshaft to be decided.

 
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Another item that I am sourcing are the engine mounts. I was looking at the Prothanes. However, even though these are sold for the 351 71-73 Mustang, the description says it doesn't fit the Cleveland engine. Confusing since our cars don't come with the Windsor.

http://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/6503

Any thoughts on these or any other good mounts?

 
I'm pretty much at the same stage with my 406 just waiting on a set of mains then i can assemble the block

I was thinking about a decent radiator so will be interesting what other members come up with however the one you supplied a link looks like it is more than adequate

Be interesting to see what else you do with your build particularly valve train, ignition, intake, headers and of course cylinders heads

 
I'm pretty much at the same stage with my 406 just waiting on a set of mains then i can assemble the block

I was thinking about a decent radiator so will be interesting what other members come up with however the one you supplied a link looks like it is more than adequate

Be interesting to see what else you do with your build particularly valve train, ignition, intake, headers and of course cylinders heads
I updated my first post with some more general information.

 
Here is where I'm at with mine:

Scat 4340 forged crank internal balance 4 inch stroke

Molnar 4340 forged offset connecting rods 6inch

Diamond forged pistons (10.5:1 static compression)

Trick Flow 225cc powerport heads

1.73 scorpion roller rockers

Romac harmonic balancer (neutral balance)

Morel/lunati link bar roller lifters

Custom Comp Cam hydraulic roller cam (245/[email protected]) 110 lsa

Flowkooler aluminum water pump

Weiand Xcellerator single plane intake (2v version)

Msd small cap mechanical distributor

Msd digital 6AL ignition box

Moroso 8.5mm wires

Holley sniper efi fuel injection

Hooker comp ceramic headers

Tanks inc 255lph intank electric fuel pump

Tremec TKO600 w QuickTime blow proof bellhousing

McCleod extreme street clutch kit

Billet 157 tooth neutral flywheel

American Powertrain hydraulic clutch system

9" N case 4.11 gears with Eaton posi unit with billet hats

Billet Daytona pinion support

Moser 31 spline forged axles

Factory ram air unit

Power master 200 amp alternator

Power master mini starter

Flex a lite 17" mechanical race fan

Robert Shaw 180 thermostat

TMeyer brass bypass plate

I have not figured out a radiator yet

I'm expecting 580ish hp and 540ish torque

 
I called pro thane a year ago they said their mounts wouldn't fit. I was tempted to buy them anyway. But ended up using Lakewood mounts. I'll see how they hold up. I'm very close to having it running and at least some test drives till I finish putting the rest together. Did you talk to Tim Meyer about his cam bearings?

 
I am running a Champion radiator right now, and it seems to be working well, my car runs at about 170-180 constantly. Make sure to trim the tabs on the bottom, or it will sit too high. I also tried the urethane engine mounts from summit and they DID NOT work. I might have gotten a bad set, but where they are supposed to clamp over the mount receiver in the car, it would not seat right. The engine was slightly tipped to one side. So I went back to stock mounts.

 
I am running my stock radiator and my stock motor mounts on my 408 and its fine. Been like that for several years.

If your going with hydraulic roller lifters buy the best you can afford, and stay far far away from COMP.

 
Here is where I'm at with mine:

Scat 4340 forged crank internal balance 4 inch stroke

Molnar 4340 forged offset connecting rods 6inch

Diamond forged pistons (10.5:1 static compression)

Trick Flow 225cc powerport heads

1.73 scorpion roller rockers

Romac harmonic balancer (neutral balance)

Morel/lunati link bar roller lifters

Custom Comp Cam hydraulic roller cam (245/[email protected]) 110 lsa

Flowkooler aluminum water pump

Weiand Xcellerator single plane intake (2v version)

Msd small cap mechanical distributor

Msd digital 6AL ignition box

Moroso 8.5mm wires

Holley sniper efi fuel injection

Hooker comp ceramic headers

Tanks inc 255lph intank electric fuel pump

Tremec TKO600 w QuickTime blow proof bellhousing

McCleod extreme street clutch kit

Billet 157 tooth neutral flywheel

American Powertrain hydraulic clutch system

9" N case 4.11 gears with Eaton posi unit with billet hats

Billet Daytona pinion support

Moser 31 spline forged axles

Factory ram air unit

Power master 200 amp alternator

Power master mini starter

Flex a lite 17" mechanical race fan

Robert Shaw 180 thermostat

TMeyer brass bypass plate

I have not figured out a radiator yet

I'm expecting 580ish hp and 540ish torque
Nice build but why the 200 amp alternator? - not criticizing, just asking! Also, I think you should ditch the mechanical fan & fit a pair of electrics, will gain a bit of performance & economy, plus a nicer, safer place to work when doing timing etc!

 
Haha I went a little big on the alternator. I probably could've gotten by with a 140amp but I thought the extra didn't hurt. Plus it was same price. As far as the mechanical fan, I'm trying to go with a stock look. Factory radiator hoses, factory battery cables, etc. electric fans will take away from the look I'm going for.

 
Haha I went a little big on the alternator. I probably could've gotten by with a 140amp but I thought the extra didn't hurt. Plus it was same price. As far as the mechanical fan, I'm trying to go with a stock look. Factory radiator hoses, factory battery cables, etc. electric fans will take away from the look I'm going for.
Understand the stock look thing, fair enough. With alternator, 200A x 13.6v = 2720 Watts so you could install a 2kW sound system in there...maybe not what you want.

 
Haha I went a little big on the alternator. I probably could've gotten by with a 140amp but I thought the extra didn't hurt. Plus it was same price. As far as the mechanical fan, I'm trying to go with a stock look. Factory radiator hoses, factory battery cables, etc. electric fans will take away from the look I'm going for.
Understand the stock look thing, fair enough. With alternator, 200A x 13.6v = 2720 Watts so you could install a 2kW sound system in there...maybe not what you want.
...... or 3.7 additional HP

 
As far as I know the engine mounts are the same for Windsor & Cleveland

My coupe originally came with a Windsor 302 but purchased it with a 302 Cleveland aussie in it

Here's some prothane type mounts from CJP - https://www.cjponyparts.com/polyurethane-motor-mount-set-289-302-351-1965-1972/p/MM503/
It makes the situation very confusing. They are listed for the 71-73 Mustangs and they look the same as the stock ones, at least in regards to the hole locations. I need to check more on this. 

However, if you look in Prothane's website, http://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/6503, they specifically state "Ford Mustang 1969 thru 1973", but then say "Will not fit Cleveland."

:huh: :huh: :huh: :huh:

Maybe it is meant to say that it doesn't fit the 1973 Cleveland. :chin: :chin: :chin:

 
I am running a Champion radiator right now, and it seems to be working well, my car runs at about 170-180 constantly. Make sure to trim the tabs on the bottom, or it will sit too high. I also tried the urethane engine mounts from summit and they DID NOT work. I might have gotten a bad set, but where they are supposed to clamp over the mount receiver in the car, it would not seat right. The engine was slightly tipped to one side. So I went back to stock mounts.
Which Champion, the 3-row CC381?

 
The alternator only supplies what is asked of it. If I am drawing 100 amps from my accessories, it will only supply that amount. 200amp is the max rating of the alternator. Not what it will constantly run at. I left myself plenty of amperage for future upgrades if needed. If not, then at least my alternator isn't being strained by the demand.

 
As far as I know the engine mounts are the same for Windsor & Cleveland

My coupe originally came with a Windsor 302 but purchased it with a 302 Cleveland aussie in it

Here's some prothane type mounts from CJP - https://www.cjponyparts.com/polyurethane-motor-mount-set-289-302-351-1965-1972/p/MM503/
It makes the situation very confusing. They are listed for the 71-73 Mustangs and they look the same as the stock ones, at least in regards to the hole locations. I need to check more on this. 

However, if you look in Prothane's website, http://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/6503, they specifically state "Ford Mustang 1969 thru 1973", but then say "Will not fit Cleveland."

:huh: :huh: :huh: :huh:

Maybe it is meant to say that it doesn't fit the 1973 Cleveland. :chin: :chin: :chin:
I should have done this before. I have the stock motor mounts and I had also purchased the Prothane 6503s some time age. I compared them side by side and the dimensions are the same so they should work. The description in their website is still confusing!

 
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