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Wouahhh Fabrice, amazing all what you did. I know it's not easy to work when you have no room, but you can manage it.

Mr Heisenberg, you cook very well, as well ;)

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll

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Not 71 related, but too happy to keep it for me! :)   The 73 has its new jacket on! Yeeehaaah! It took only decades to get to this point :) Hard to catch the 2 green metallic as they are in real u

It's weekend and it's again a dog weather. But as my 73's brakes parts are still somewhere above the Atlantic I don't care as I'll be busy inside on my 71's apron!   I've received last

Another cold and wet weekend passed. No weather to take the 73 for a spin, so went back to the driver side front apron replacement in my cold garage.. I'm afraid it's another boring post!  

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@Midlife

No, I'm up north in Holland, we get some north sea winds atm and temp is not even near crazy as in south France.

"Only" 35c/95F and sunny here.

 

Oh and here's your fix :D

 

 

Lots on the todo today, parasol installed, weather fantastic...

 

xmas-early.jpg

 

Yesterday received some genuine rust and dust from the States in the form of a passenger splashgard that I was missing and the hardware from a glovebox. Mine had all kinds of screws used, none the same or even close to the stuff required.

While the hardware is now taking a bath, I've started the day by removing all kinds of stones protection and revived the plastic to a clean and shiny finish.

Thx Dale!

 

ashtray.jpg

 

Another candy arrived as well. I've spend so much time finding one in a good condition for my 73 (years), so as my 71 misses it too, when I came across that one on a US shop on ebay, couldn't resist. So you see I can enjoy new stuffs once in a while as well! :D

 

platingbubbles.jpg

 

In between activities, the fourth and last headlights brackets set was cooking... Each de-rusted, zinc and copper plated.

 

massage-required.jpg

 

Of course this is the last part of 4 sets, so it couldn't be easy... This poor bracket had the nut/retainers ment to hold the grille with extra drillings next to broken screw (3), a bit that hold the spring cut for some reason and both the adjustment screws retainers broken...

How hard one wants to save a part??? :D

 

As I've never replaced these adjustements screws before, I've asked Don from OMS where I bought them, how to install them and if he had a kit for the grille retainers: The answer was like:

"Never replaced them, I usually go pick another bracket with good adjustment screws and no sorry, no kit for the grille retainers"...

K, so totally informed and ready, went to work. :D

 

remove-oldscrews.jpg

 

Removed the old brolen retainers of the adjustement screws, which is basically only a question to bend them the reverse way and spend a few (long) minutes playing with fire. Good plyers and some hammering with a tiny screwdriver later, had the 3 broken screws out and was left with wonderful retainers with 2 holes.

 

brazing-multi-metal.jpg

 

Totally not planned for this, I recall I have this brazing rod kit in house that will be used later this year for the 71.

Ment for all kinds of zinc based alloys and for aluminium in particular. The retainers/nut looking like some kind of brass, it should work.

So I thought I could try set back on of the old screws back in, close the bottom and melt enough metal so it goes inside and close the extra holes. Because the rods are once cold a soft alloy, I should be able to uncrew and be left with a fixed problem..

 

melting.jpg

 

Lets find out...

Squeezed the bracket with a screw turned in just enough to be flush to the retainer surface on the other side. All sandwiched on a metal block of 2x2x3 make of iron that should not stick.

 

Brushed first very good, and heated the metal at the screw thread and placed the rod every few secs to see if it sticked a bit without heating it. Once it started melt I've let the flame on the bits set so it would become really liquid and helped with a screw driver to direct into the hole.

(Top right, that was the first one and found out I didn't need so much for the others)

Cooled in water, the fix worked wonderfuly and just needed bits of grinding for the left overs of the brazing soft metal.

Totally happy with the result and it was also a perfect way to test the rods.

 

weldingandplating.jpg

 

It was then time to make a patch and weld it on. Bit tricky as the patch was small, but managed to give it a good enough shape.

Then after a good clean, it was time to plate the part.

Meanwhile, as the welding machine was now "deployed", fixed the light bucket and the suspension plate as I forgot to weld a few extra holes 2 weeks ago...

 

bling-with-new-screws.jpg

Once soda wash and soap wooled, installed both new adjustment screws retainers, where its basically on a question of gently hammering them in place, and ended up with a restored bling bling bracket with nice tiny holes and new screws :)

 

Together with the other parts done today, it joined my now very crowded "to be epoxied" box.

 

Tomorrow, I need plate the bucket first and could think about spraying something... tho I need change rear brakes on my wife's car too :(

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Not all the time I wanted today and way too much wind to spray anything...

 

hardware-glovebox.jpg

So did little things, like de-rusted/copper/zinc and nickel plated the glovebox hardware. Needed be done anyway.

The little hat nuts for the hood front molding will not be used, but a these are the kind you easy can loose and you can't find these over here.

Having a few spares next to the new ones I have, even ugly but functional is ok to have. For the rest the focus went on the little latch and the screws heads. They should look fine once installed.

 

plate-done.jpg

Finally finished that plate. Been in my legs for 2 months and wanted have it done. I'll paint it with many other things as son as I have some time and the wind is gone. I've kept the rubber on, its in very good condition but the "brake" nut has a damaged head that make it impossible to unscrew without destroying. As I want be done with this plate, I will have to live with the idea there can be corrosion underneath the rubber! :D

 

next-victim.jpg

Then started on my next victim... More ugly picts next week :)

 

To be continued...

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Did not had a pure Mustang weekend.

Had to handle my wife's Mini...

 

mini-brakes.jpg

 

It needs to go to the tech control and fto pass, I needed renew rear brakes. Change all fluids etc...

The little beast is from 2002 , so as I can't suffer the sight of rust. Also de-rusted/epoxied and painted that german thingy.

End of the day, it ended bling bling and with new brakes.

 

One thing I hate most on this car is the stupid ass engine oil filter. If someone knows the guy who designed this thing, please, punch him for me, thx.

 

next-victim.jpg

 

Sunday was much better! :) Picked my next victim, the driver's side suspension plate. Removed saturday eve so it could pass the night in bath. Comparing the one that is done, its clear there is some work to be done!

 

 

plate-done.jpg

 

Like this other one, extra holes we made at some point and some rust had made some damaged. So fixed and refilled all the metal.

Few bubbles and electrons later, it was ready and because its impossible to plate in the inside, handled both with rust transformer epoxy.

Both and many other parts will then receive a good epoxy probably next week.

 

 

lights-bucket-done.jpg

 

In between also finished the light bucket. Just like on many french cars, it had been cut to mount the required H4 headlights.

Now welded and in a thick zinc jacket, I can finally mark the fourth set of headlights brackets as plated.

 

bumper-support-rusty.jpg

Another little guy that was waiting for 2 weeks, is the bumper support. Because I don't have a long enough bath for it, I had to work in pieces. Both extremities were alternated in bath where most thick rust was and today did the rest standing in bath...

 

 

bumper-support-derust.jpg

 

While the original slop grey looked fairely ok on most of the part and deep rust was not everywhere. I know more than one who would have painted on this after a quick sanding. Well, fact is, everywhere beneath the grey was rusted. So while busy doing other things, I've kept the entire part wet of acid whole afternoon. Helping a bit with a brush on the deepest rust. And at the end of the day, one side was totally rust free, the other 98%.

 

bumper-support-derust-2.jpg

 

After a quick sanding and cleaning session I should have this baby as new next weekend. Unfortunately, I can't plate it :(

It also should be epoxied/painted next weekend...

 

All with all, I wish it was friday, tired of my weekend! But glad I did a least a few things :)

 

To be continued...

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Man, I really have to read up on your plating technique Fabrice, I may have some questions coming your way soon. As always, everything's looking great.

 

Tom

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@Tom

Plating is really rewarding. It's extra work and you can't cheat as for paint yes. But once you done, your parts are really protected or looking as new.

Best part is how easy and cheap that is. Wish I'd tried this many years ago...

You know where to find me if you need get started...

 

-----------------

 

Cold and rain whole week. Way bellow season temps.

As today was dry and sunny, did not miss the opportunity! :)

 

byebyeblingbling.jpg

 

Was again time to see bye bye to all the bling bling parts done in past weeks.

First applied a layer of rust preventive epoxy to the bumper support as I can't plate it due to its volume. Then sprayed a generous epoxy layer and thanks to the sun and a tad more hardener, all was drying pretty fast.

 

little-things.jpg

 

In between, took care of the rubber mount for the suspension plate, its stayed the week in bath and gave it a quick zinc coating hoping it could be ready to go for the other side epoxy pass. Which I did. Also, placed back temporarily the plate for the electrics plated a while back and all the screws plated last week that came from @Dale part car. So I have all in place before I forget where they all go. :) Aside one screw for the latch in need of a j-nut behind, all threads were fine. All will stay there till I handle the dashboard...

 

otherside.jpg

 

The skies were starting to obfuscate the sun, but took my chances and sprayed the other side and by the end of the day, just before it start rain again, all was ready and hard to the touch. If the weather permits it, I might start prime them and may be paint a few tomorrow...

 

questions.jpg

 

Then while all these goodies were drying,went back to the car to pick my next victims. Came across 2 things. There was this ring with a screw, even had the original green on one side. Obviously this is useless, but wonder what is supposed to be there... anyone knows? On the other side there was nothing, but the little hole is there too.

Also another question, the driver rocker has a deep shock, not very obvious on the pict, but its like bit more of 1/2 inch deep in the middle. What would be best way to get it back in place. I'm thinking about renting some tool to weld some sticks and using a guide with weight to get in back out. But if anyone has some tips, please shoot, as i'm sure the metal isn't thin there...

 

next-victim.jpg

 

The other one isn't yet finished that I already start on this one. Way less dents but much more corrosion on this side, tho nothing to scare my acid powa :)

Notice the plastic gold on the lower part of the pict. It's different than the passenger side for some reason... Unlike the other side, I do miss the totally useless and not even visible plastic pieces in the front. Also removed the deco group trim and extensions without problems.

The more I see these thin things, the more I'm thinking about learning fast how to weld stainless steel and made a new set myself. We'll see.

 

pure-beauty.jpg

 

Ah, behind the splashguard that was rivetted for some reason, I've discovered even more how talented the guy who did this was... I know its so ugly I should not post it, but also because its so ugly that I needed post it :)

He used a metal sheet and mixed it with this poo, may be to imagine he actually placed some metal back after butchering the apron... tsss. Pushed all the wires inside, and I'll dive in this misery later on.

 

questions2.jpg

Aside a problem on the front, what I took for rust first was just brown dirt. There is only few places where rust starts, but nothing serious. So good news in that regard.

However came across 2 other things that may be one of you knows about.

On second left pict, there is some kind of reinforcement. I there supposed to be something there? Or was it again added to hold the winshield washers tank because may of too big hole???

Also, and that one looks original, there is a thin tube that goes in pair from fuel pump back to tank. Was it some kind of return line or vapour thingy in 71 or specific to 429's ? I'll go EFI, so this will go away, but wondering what it was for.... My 73 doesn't have this and never seen this before.

 

Anyway, lets hope tomorrow will be nice weather kuz my todo plate is full again :)

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Yes, you can get a stud welder and use a slide hammer to pull it out.

 

You can also get the glue type dent puller

https://www.amazon.com/Super-PDR-Paintless-Repair-Removal/dp/B079QK1RTT/ref=asc_df_B079QK1RTT/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584413735447979&psc=1

 

And, you can drill 3mm holes and use a hook to pull the dent out, or a slide hammer with a sheet metal screw to pull it out, and the weld the holes shut. The best body man I knew used a L shaped hook with a handle on it and would pull on the dent with one hand while tapping around the edges. The L shape didn't pull cones into the sheet metal the way a sheet metal screw does.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Yes, you can get a stud welder and use a slide hammer to pull it out.

" I'm thinking about renting some tool to weld some sticks and using a guide with weight to get in back out."

 

Obviously your english is better than mine :D 

Thats exactly what I ment.

I've seen this in action years ago, and there are no holes made, the extremity of the slide hammer was having a similar head as a drill machine and you could use lots of force on the studs. I'd like very much this above making holes to perform the same.

 

You mentionned the glue type dent puller. Would it be strong enough to pull this kind of metal thickness? I bet the metal is 1.5mm or even thicker on the rocker there no? I recall seen this used on modern cars rear fenders where we all know its cigarette paper thin these days.

Tho, might be worth a try before drill anything if I can't rent the "man" tools. Thanks for the tips Don.

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Still no summer temp, but warm enough and dry.

 

primer.jpg

 

Sanded all the parts where some some remains of ancient pits of rust were and applied primer. Not long after that, did the other side.

Unlike epoxy, this primer dries very fast.

 

primed-waiting-for-paint.jpg

 

Hard to see these were pieces of rusted junks a few weeks ago! :)

Once the second pass was hard, most of them went back in box for next week black paint as it was too late to start paint and coat.

 

noslopgrey.jpg

 

Did apply my metallic replacement color for the slop grey, as I marries much better to the green I'll be using. Still wet when I took the picts and weirdly reflecting the tree above, These should be coated together with the other black parts next week. Or may be during next week as weather is announced warmer.

 

fender-derust.jpg

 

As usual, had to do ugly things too :) After a good clean with water to remove all the collected mud and dirt, got to the raw material (read rust). Then applied the first pass of phosphoric acid, notice on lower picts how efficient it works. This is just 1/2 hour keeping the metal wet with a paint brush. When I left the garage to go work in garden, I forgot to take a pict, but only the deepest rust was remaining. The nose very corroded is submerged in bath (as on pict) and should be totally rust free by tomorrow. I'll continue apply during the week and should be able to start on other side next weekend...

 

All with all, another good mustang weekend :)

 

To be continued...

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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All looking good as usual Fabrice, great to see your progress

Another suggestion for pulling out the rocker panel dent is to tack weld some largish washers along the dent line perhaps 3-5 of them

Weld them vertically and run a bolt or rod through the washers then using a J hook or similar with either a slide hammer or a hydraulic porta-power gradually pull the dent out whilst tapping any high spots along the edge

Once done just twist off the washers and weld up any holes if necessary

I have used this method several times with great results

As much as I would like a stud welder I just can't afford to buy any more fancy tools for a while due to engine/trans problems

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Another suggestion for pulling out the rocker panel dent is to tack weld some largish washers along the dent line perhaps 3-5 of them

Weld them vertically and run a bolt or rod through the washers then using a J hook or similar with either a slide hammer or a hydraulic porta-power gradually pull the dent out whilst tapping any high spots along the edge

Once done just twist off the washers and weld up any holes if necessary

I have used this method several times with great results

As much as I would like a stud welder I just can't afford to buy any more fancy tools for a while due to engine/trans problems

Thx for the tip m8. Yes, that's also what I was thinking about if i can't rent one of these things. Thought I might weld a bolt at the deepest and use the thread (thru a bar) to pull it back.

But err, what do I read??? You also have trans probs now?

 

------------------

 

 

Stormy weather past week till yesterday

Couldn't do much, so did small things, especially on the 73.

As the 71 needs to go inside for some serious massage, the 73 needs be "kinda" finished first so I can finally have my cleveland kick whenever I feel I need one :)

 

alum-paintchoice.jpg

 

Because the 73 needs a new jacket, went to the painter, as I keep the same green, I wanted also to have the new ref number (the system/regulations changed since it was painted). So I could order the exact same color later on for whatever I'd need to repaint, So came back home with tons of green sample cards to test against the paint till I finally found a match. Very hard and time consumming.

Also got myself a new glovebox, well, not exactly ready to be installed, but next time it rains, I could work on making a new one inside from this 1mx50cmx1mm aluminium plate. Just like in my 73, the 71 will receive a nice aluminium glovebox vs some cheapo cardboard.

 

 

cover73.jpg

 

As I've replaced my 73 grille a few weeks back, found out this repop wasn't having the same angle for the contour as the old one, as a result the cover wasn't really fitting anymore, so played quite a bit on the lights brackets and few measurements later, thanks to some new rivet toy, removed the need to make a new cover. Bought this tool a while back to have proper screws for my mirrors, but never tried it. Very handy, tho, the tool itself isn't really the most friendly to set it to another size. Used M6 size for the bolts and went to shops to buy some in SS with flat allen heads, but all DIY stores in town assume people want either crap material with flat screwdriver heads in long sizes or nice ones but very short. So I'll replace these once I've located new nice ones online, for now, the cover is secured and in place. No need to make a new one!

 

Next week, i'll have to tune the headlights direction/height and can move on to the next on the todo for this car before go to paint.

 

fender-paint-removal.jpg

 

Despite the weather, I was able Saturday to start on the 71 fender as well, removed most of the shammy paint work I could and let it rest with paint remover last nite so I could work on it today.

 

parts-semigloss.jpg

 

Lots of little things were also waiting for the sun and dry weather, and today painted black all parts primed last week and finished them with a "silk" semigloss coat. These should not see rust again for a very long while! :)

Because my garage is a very crowdy place atm, everything went back into the box it came from. I'll prolly put the headlight brackets back together this week.

 

 

fender-paintandrust-removal.jpg

Rest of the day was all about exposing the misery of the fender. There is still plenty work todo, as most rust is bellow layers of ancient protection, and of course, the stuff doesn't react to the paint remover...

But so far, the fender is in good condition and found only 3 small dents. This should make my neighbourgs happy as I will not need much hammering to fix them.

Then I could de-rust/prep this baby...

 

To be continued (if weather permits)...

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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I see you have a rivnut tool also, very handy for some applications

Reckon you'll have that beast painted soon and glad you've stuck to the original green

Are you able to paint in your yard/shed or is it a no no in your town?

I can get away with some minor painting but hired a spray booth to do the big job due to bugs having a liking for 2 pack paint!

 

As for my vehicle I'm awaiting an autopsy on the C4 trans which should determine the cause of the engine failure

Will post a full report later but so far the crankshaft thrust bearing has failed due to the crankshaft being pushed forward

This could be anything from the flex plate backwards but suspect the trans has somehow suddenly increased converter charge pressure and forced the crank forwards

Just one of those unfortunate things that happens

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@OzCoupe72

Yes, bought that thing for the mirrors. The 73 had only one chrome mirror and needs to have holes properly done for the passenger side. The 71 needs at least one to be replaced. Not a tool you use daily for sure, but always wanted have one.

 

[Reckon you'll have that beast painted soon and glad you've stuck to the original green]

"Soon" is a very flexible term :) The green I'll use is not the original Ivy green. I've picked a version of it that is bits darker and using smaller aluminum particles.It should "draw" the lines with a greater contrast than the original paint could.

 

I can paint/finish small parts, and I can prep/prime parts, but the final exterior color+coat will be done at my local paint shop in a heated booth.

Most, like hood, deck lid etc... will/already have the inside painted by me.

 

 

---------------------------

Hot hot hot... whole week till yesterday was +- 38c / 100F

So hot it made me lazy on Saturday and did only little stuffs..

 

too-hot-but-hey.jpg

 

Under a totally must have parasol/umbrella, reassembled some of the parts that were plated and painted during past weeks.

 

 

eventually-bracket-was-done.jpg

 

In middle the reassembly of the last set of headlight bracket, I saw I did not have a replacement spring for it as the 2 new ones I bought were already used. I had one spring in good shape, but it was corroded. So took a plating break and restored it.

After each and every bolt or screw was preturned and greased, eventually I was able to complete the last set! Yeeeeeeaaaaah!

 

After 4 rusty sets, I'm totally OD'd doing these and really do not plan do another set anytime soon!! :)

 

 

bracket-done.jpg

 

They might not be perfect, they might show some ancient scars here and there, but knowing the way they were (and knowing what's underneath the semigloss top coat).

I'm very please with the results!

 

Headlights brackets: DONE! :)

 

transmission-shaft-fastenners.jpg

 

As temperature was unbearable, went looking for a small victim. These little guys, holding the driveshaft, made of high grade metal were just having small corrosion. So gave them some love and few bubbles later, they were as new.

 

liftplate.jpg

 

As I can't yet have a 2 tons engine hoist in the garage by lack of space, already ordered some of the stuffs I'll be needed, like a lift plate and some chains... The JEGGs plate was not fitting, so enlarged the holes just a bit and finally got on the engine.

That's when I saw to my horror, that the vacuum tree thingy cleaned up last year, started to show signs of corrosion. Totally unacceptable!! :)

Last year I didn't know how easy it was to plate and painted most other parts on the engine. But for that one, I thought the original protection was still good enough to avoid paint... I was wrong.

 

vacuum-tree-plated.jpg

 

So gave that poor thing the love it needed and after a first layer of nickel, finished it with zinc. Back on the engine it was looking pretty again! :)

Then the sweaty me called it a day and went for a long cold shower.

 

 

byebye-hole.jpg

 

Today's temp was 33c / 89F with bits of wind, so did the work I wanted to do on the 73 yesterday and then went back to the front fender. On the todo: close that "antenna" hole. This fender being the driver side, probably someone installed some extra antenna for some piece of high tech equipment (at the time). All I know is I've close the original one on the passenger side and wasn't planning to put back the rubber thingy that was closing it since at least 1989.

To make a round patch of this scale, I asked Mr Dremmel to help me. 2 tiny discs later, installed it with magnets and a piece of copper behind. Once welded and grounded, fixed two tiny holes that I've missed and dollied the region to have a seamless surface.

 

 

fender-misere.jpg

 

As my paint remover doesn't attack bondo and because I can't transform the garden (and occupants) into a white powdery landscape, sanding is out of order, so just like for the passenger one, I've used heat to remove it all. Discovered that at some point the body guy decided that it needed be done "right" with tin just like he did the hood corner, but he prolly decided 1/2 way that bondo was way faster... Then discovered other nice fixes, like a crease only asking for a hammer, that was instead hidden with 2 kilos of bondo. Same receipt for the region near the bumper, tho for that one, as to access it by behind is very hard when the fender is on, I can understand why he went for bondo vs fix.

Started hammer and dolly here and there, and was reminded by the garden occupants that the entire street population was in own gardens and that hammering could be a tad annoying. I totally disagreed on this, as Mustang metal sounds great! But it was late anyway, so cleaned up the mess... I'll prolly go make some noise this week when everybody's at work. Working home has its plusses :)

 

And so ended a very hot weekend.

 

To be continued...

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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At the beginning of the year, you complained about cold and rain; now you complain about high temperatures. Next, you'll be complaining about not having anything to do.

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@Midlife

I'm not complaining all the time!

Take today for instance: Dry, warm enough to be in t-shirt AND most important, not sunny enough and a tad too cold to attract the ladies in the garden!

 

The perfect hammer day!!! :D

 

crease-fixed.jpg

 

Started by correct the wheel lip and spent quite a few to correct that crease. The metal was twisted in a way it took me a while to restore the surface to something that felt and looked good for the entire region. I should practically need no bondo. Much better than the 1/2 kilo that was used to hide it.

 

 

front-not-aligned.jpg

 

Then when to the front. After some closer inspection, I saw there was some curve to the top line that I could not place. As lots had been bended. Straitened the headlights bracket bits to fender, then corrected the main surface (where the bolts are). Once traightened, it was more obvious something was repaired with bit too much enthousiasm.

 

 

aligment-restored.jpg

 

Had to flatten and move the lip up and redraw the fold following the line of the rest of the fender. Much better :D

 

 

too-much-stress.jpg

 

All fine except now that the entire bracket and region were straightened back, the poor repair made of tin and brazing decades ago didn't like the stress much. Heard a metal crack and was able to pass my ruler thru it. Not long after the entire repair broke appart. The fender took her shape back with no respect for the ugly repair she had to suffer for decades :)

 

 

basic-shape.jpg

 

Not really happy with this. Bit scary considering the costs for a new fender may I'd fail. I had no choice but go plan B and had to use the big guns: one of the pizza boxes that I always keep for their handy soft cardboard! :)

 

As the shape is quite complex, nothing is really straight and there is some curves everywhere, I decided to work in different orders as I usually do. Where I'd cut, then make a print of the hole and make a patch based on that. The reason is because the shape I need to restore isn't the one I need to cut. Its been shorted few mm on the height and compensated with tin. So measured on the other fender the expected height, 3.5cm and mixed the print I did on the fender with the measurements. Cut my plate and worked the metal slowly with a plastic impact hammer... Few tic-tocs later, Got my basic shape with the important fold at the top with a nice curve into it.

Left enough metal around it to be able to add more curve to it if required.

 

 

no-way-back.jpg

 

Next was the point of no return: used my fresh part and cut the fender. Yet kept enough material to be cut later for what is practically a flat surface on the fender... Once the sick bit was out, its clear something bits weird was done long ago.

 

 

sunday-matter.jpg

 

Not enough good day light to continue today, ended up with a patch practically flush everywhere.

Need to hammer it further tomorrow and give it more crisp on the top fold, but if weather permits it, I might be able to let the welding machine speak tomorrow...

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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You're turning out some great work and becoming quite a good panel beater

Sometimes will need to apply heat and cold to shrink some high spots especially when you get that annoying "tin can" effect

I have a shrinking disc I put on the sander, it is more subtle than using flame, takes a little getting used to but certainly worth it

Like me you will do everything to avoid buying a new fender and paying huge shipping costs, not to mention having to rework the repop panel

P1030238.jpg
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@Mister 4x4

Thx, a no choice situation here. The repair with the corrosion on other side was already making the previous thick layer of bondo crack, no way I'd bondo that again weak as it was. As most of the panel is ok despite many tiny dents, the pus had to go out :)

 

@OzCoupe72

I usually use heat and cooling fast to shrink a bit but here its hard as most of the nose part where it would be handy, as I've discover last week during bondo removal, is full of tin and it melts at relatively low temp and most damage is of course there...

[i have a shrinking disc I put on the sander]. I have to try one of these before I run out of dents... A shrinking hammer is also on my wish list.

[Like me you will do everything to avoid buying a new fender and paying huge shipping costs, not to mention having to rework the repop panel]

Yup, same boat. Tho there is also the hobby aspect. I've decided to save this car from the crusher and restore it with my hands, not my credit card (tho, it will not remain undamaged ) . Even if its lots of (dirty) work and frustrating at times, I still enjoy doing this. Not to mention you learn tons by doing everything yourself. I keep repops & new for the cases I really have no more options or simply because I miss the part.

 

@NotAT5

Man, having these is 1/2 the restoration!! Used them again today lol! :D

Everyone has its prefs, I see for instance a guy that I follow on youtube, "urchfab", uses cereals boxes. Different diets, same goal :)

 

 

its-in.jpg

 

Finished that patch and even took the hood print to check if curve would fit.

Then very tediously welded it in. Tedious because I've discoverd that for the ancient repair the metal had been grounded and having corrosion on the flat part on the other side, made it difficult to weld. Got quite a few holes on the top where it was thin. The most important on the middle went fine.

So was really one weld at a time, cooled with water and a piece of copper was really a massive help. Took ages and after a quick grinding session, welded again where I've left tiny spaces.

I still have to grind and hammer it, but it was too late to make noise, already been a nasty neighbour most of the day... So will do this during the week when most are at work.

 

not-there-yet.jpg

 

No prob, while many dents are now gone, even one nasty on the lower part where I had to kind of press the metal while beating it, there is still plenty to do on it on the lower front part. Mostly hard to be reached places because of the huge bracket behind. Using a file, got the remaining tin that melted when I've removed the bondo with heat back in shape and started to prep the inside (removing the rough corrosion) for next week rust removal & epoxy prime inside...

 

Amazing the time that goes into these things...

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Weekend! Storm, rain, yeah!!

 

fender-derust-inside.jpg

 

Really, I was happy it was raining for a change, as today de-rusting the fender was on the todo.

With phosphoric acid, I get best results starting "pure", then diluting with water while helping the process with brushes otherwise it dries/evaporate. Now thanks to the rain, it was automatic! Once done, rain stopped too. Perfect timing :)

While the fender was dripping into my de-rust bath, prepped a soda bath to balance Ph and finished with water. As flash rust may occur in matter of seconds when wet, air dried and heat gunned it. Still warm, applied a layer of rust protective epoxy.

 

 

fender-exteriro-paint-removal.jpg

 

As the inside was going deep purple, started on the other side. Most paint already gone, it was time to remove the hardest: part: the original primer. As we can't buy Aircraft like products more powerful over here, just like for all panels done already, all I can get out of that mild stuff for this red primer is a soft paste. Had to inject some elbow oil to the mix to get it done.

 

 

fender-paint-removed.jpg

 

Eventually, like every time, the elbow oil got me where I wanted to be: a pristine surface!

I've still have some hammer time tomorrow before applying epoxy, but was glad to see all big dents, pigeon nest style, are now gone. Even the extra antenna hole is practically invisible. With two thick layers and a tad of bondo, I should get it to a very acceptable state. At least I hope I will.

 

Another plus doing the paint removal this way vs sand blating, aside keeping the metal thickness original, is that I start look like the cool kids, you know those with too big pants. Had to add an extra hole to my belt this past week as I was loosing my pants! Saw I've lost another 2 kilos last month :)

I tell you, don't pay for gym, get yourself an old car to restore!

 

Now, lets hope tomorrow will be dry...

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Great work Fabrice. You could give quality lessons to experts.

 

Maybe you need to eat more pizzas? You must be running out of materials for making patterns, that way you get more pattern material and put some weight on at the same time. :)

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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I think you need to move to North Carolina and be my new neighbor, lol. 

It is great to see someone just get in there and do it. You do it right and seem to enjoy it also.

I have the same issue with loosing weight. I seldom check my weight but was shocked the other day when I did. I forget to stop and eat when I get into something. When I came back from my work in China in 2015 I had gained to 235 lbs. I am 6'5" so was not over weight at that. I am down to 165 lbs. now that is 70 lbs. I have lost. I drink lots of drinks with the minerals I need to keep from cramping also. 

I went to Dr. once when I lost 40 lbs. in 3 weeks without trying. They did every test known to man and can find nothing. 

I did the Mach 1 in the 10 weeks furry in the spring and then put in a big garden this year. I am going to have to slow down or waste away to nothing. 

I was getting ready to roll the 72 Q code vert into the work room but that might kill me.

I have started trying to eat like 5 times a day but cannot gain. Lots of cheese and bacon and just cannot gain.

Again it is great to see you doing all this fantastic work and I am sure you are going to inspire other members to get going on their projects. Much better for you than sitting on sofa watching TV. Glad you have family that lets you do it also.

Cheers,

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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@Midlife

Don't worry, its not like my six pack is exposed or something. There is still plenty protection on it! My one pack as I call it, is still there, just thinner! :)

 

@Don C

ahahaha, excellent hobby/diet advise!!!

 

@CMM

[i think you need to move to North Carolina and be my new neighbor, lol. ]

Oh you would not like it, I'd be squatting your space and borrow your rotisserie all the time :)

 

[it is great to see someone just get in there and do it. You do it right and seem to enjoy it also.]

I don't know if I do it right but at least I try to. I don't think you can save an old car by hiding misery, spray a shiny coat on top of the old layers and hope it will look good and last for many years to come. I know I can't.

 

[Again it is great to see you doing all this fantastic work. Much better for you than sitting on sofa watching TV. Glad you have family that lets you do it also.]

thx David, I make a living programming realtime 3D graphics. I spend my days sitting for hours, staring at a screen. The only exercise I get is in brain and fingers tips.

So the weekends full with de-rusting and hammering are a welcome nice contrast. I surely enjoy revive old parts.

My wife married me and my mustangs. Too late for second thoughts :)

 

---------------------------------------

 

Practically no wind today and sunny: epoxy day!

 

fender-in-epoxy.jpg

 

First sprayed the inside and 4 or 5 hours later, it was hard enough to the touch to turn it fast and been able to spray the outside too.

All was fine, finally I was really busy on the 73 again.

 

And then wife came home from shopping with a surprise on the Mini.

 

mini-kiss.jpg

 

Mmm, there goes precious Mustang time again :( See David? When you say, she lets me do it also... she has her ways to let me do something else!

From the manual, already saw, you kinda need to remove the wheels, remove tons in trunk just to access the dang bolts of that polyurethane bumper thingy... Like I don't have enough projects running. grrr. Fixed it roughly, so nothing touch the tires anymore.

 

Anyway, as I will not have parts for that thing next week, I should be able to apply primer and prolly do some bondo woodoo on the fender and mark it done till it gets a silver and green jacket.

 

To be continued.

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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