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Fabrice's 429CJ 71 project


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So today, while @Vinnie 200km away was doing fantastic metal shaping in his garage probably as cold as mine

 

10C in mine. I reckon it was colder in yours since you're more to the north-east. Once you start having fun you warm up anyway :-)

You have a heater? Hornbach has pretty decent ones for not too much money. I got one but my garage is too big for it with the insanely high ceiling...

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Just like past weekend, it was 4C ( 39.2 F ) in garage today...

Ideal temperature to not shake while handling all these little parts :)

 

 

direct-clutch-done.jpg

 

First I went check if the direct clutch pressure plate that I've let machined this week was as ok as the one done last week for the forward clutch: Spot on as well!

Very happy about that. This means I can now put all back together!

 

Because my garage is limited in space, as the trans is on the table vertically and would need be set horizontally eating up my workable space, decided to handle the next and last patient before reassemble everything. Time for the most puzzely and delicate part of all: the valve body.

 

 

VB-open.jpg

 

With its exterior pre cleaned last weekend and the last 2 screws removed, I open it and as expected, each and every bit of it was full of crap and it was clear there was some cleaning fun in perspective..

Chances to be high again because of thinner, pretty realistic :)

 

 

dear-pizza-boxes.jpg

 

As I've prepped the "surgery" this past week by looking at docs, videos, manuals, convert all inches values to human readable units etc...

One thing was obvious: you can't possibly expect if not familiar with each component, to remember where they'd all go, their specific order and orientation.

 

Once again, my handy Dr Oetker pizza boxes were back in the game but in a new form this time! Folding one in an accordeon fashion gave me the ideal tray to lay each series of valves and parts within each corresponding row. Keeping everything together.

 

 

valves-removal.jpg

 

Then it was time to fill the tray. Amazing the amount of little things hidden in that thing. It's not called valve body for nothing really!

The safe trick to remove everything without any surprises (meaning not look for UFO's on the ground later on) is basically to keep pressure on all the plates that you need to remove and slowly depress to not only reveal what's underneath and prevent anything to fly away, but more importantly, keep track visually (picture) of the order in which valves are inserted, as sometimes you'll get a spring first and a valve after or vice versa, sometimes mixes of that.

 

 

cleaning.jpg

 

In the movies, I've seen on the topic or the shift kits install. You see the hero mechanic guy open the really not as dirty as mine valve body. Then the video is cut and the guy installs the pristine parts.

In the real world, the cut is worth a few hours of tedious cleaning. No industrial wash machine means go thru each and every corner, little holes, get the dirt and ancient deposits out and stop only when the part is really really clean. Then air dry it, and make sure there are no residues left over. As there is no way for particles to escape once in there, they would soon or later jam a valve, as they have really tight tolerances.

 

 

every-thingies-clean.jpg

 

Once all is clean and shiny, you look at everything and think: what can possibly go wrong??? :D

The folded Dr Oetker box trick turned out to be very helpful ! :)

 

 

puzzle-time.jpg

 

Puzzle time! Each and every part needs go back in in right order and orientation, be checked once more for cleanness, oiled and because I'm installing a shift kit, replacing the springs supposed to be replaced for the valve I was handling. Its also a very good idea to test/rotate the valve/springs combos, as there is a chance they'd not want take their exact place right away. Notice the hole on the plate that needed be drilled larger (1.9 to 2.1mm). Another drilling on the body, to create a bridge between 2 channels that was detailed in the manual was skipped, as it was not only in conflict with at least 2 other shops videos that I've seen, but also recommended by Ken, Bad Shoes production, to be avoided. Ment for race and heavy towing condition only.

 

And then I needed be 30kms away in 30 minutes. I'll finish this tomorrow...

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73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Music on, heater on.

Back to the valve body!

 

valvebody-1.jpg

 

Before finish to assemble the valve body, already set the later to be installed band soak in oil and picked

one of the 2 provided gaskets. Looking against the light thru the perfored plate, the one not obfuscating any hole was my guy.

Then updated one by one all the valves with the shift kit springs. Tho it wasn't as easy as it sound as yellow springs were almost without paint on them and looking more green than yellow, the green were looking blueish and between orange,red and brown the nuances were very subtile. I guess paint is expensive these days and transGo needs to minimise costs. On their product page tho, the springs are nicely coloured. Their shapes/coils counts ended up compared to the originals a way to verify the colours!

The valve body was then in two solid pieces.

 

 

valvebody-2.jpg

 

One last check on any particles, then placed the new valve, oiled all the valves from within the channels, placed the checkball and other spring and made a nice sandwich. That when you are happy to have made pictures and kept bolts regrouped, because there are a few of different length and being able to look back 3 weeks turned out to be very handy. All first hand tight, following the assembly order, the two sides kind of auto align, and it was then time to torque all of the bolts finishing by adding the new filter screen.

 

Valve body: done! :)

 

 

sandwitch-de-clutches.jpg

 

The guts already assembled last week, I only needed to install first the reverse planet in the back of the trans, and then play lego with the direct clutch, forward clutch and sun gear.

 

 

band-install.jpg

 

When I say easy as Lego, I didn't mean LIGHT as Lego. because once this "urn" is locked, fully indexed, it needs to be placed onto the input shaft at the very end the trans, that with practically no way to hold/support it confortably. It felt as it was like 3x more heavy than when outside. But got lucky and thanks to Mr Goo, all went smooth and engaged in one pass. One trick Ken gave me, is to place a wrench underneath the drum and it supports itself, while you can take your time to install the band. Worked as a charm.

With the tensionner already screwed a few threads, you only have to suffer the weight again for a few seconds while you lock the retainers on the band and you can let it go.

 

 

pumpandbolts-done.jpg

 

Then the pump. The 3 oil passages need to match the ones on the casing, then using the input shaft as a guide and 2 screwdrivers, it went straight in without much effort, only because the outer 0-ring is new, the last bits to be fully inserted asked a tad more persistence but as all was goo'ed, all was in in matter of seconds.

 

and then silence: DANG, where are the pump bolts????

Totally forgot about these!! All I know if that they were not on the pump and recall there were extra bolts mixed with engine bolts cleaned up last year.

 

Looked everywhere and finally found the whole 7 of them. But they were rusted. No way I'm gonna put them back like this on my restored pump!! So the plating emergency protocol was started right away and a little over an hour later, I was able to resume the pump install: torqued the ex-rusty's to specs and ended up with a bling bling look matching my shafts :)

 

 

trans-almost-ready.jpg

 

After setting the band tension to specs (tho, will relook at this this week as I have no way to compare anything for this), air tested the pistons, the governor (nice noise) and installed the valvebody.

 

C6 Trans is done!!! :)

 

Or better said almost done, because I have a converter, a new pan with a new bolts set still at Chicago airport, and bought in China this made in USA (say what?) Lokar KD cable for 1/10th of the price. While the brackets are making more sense in the C6 kit than for the FMX, it's still a half backed silly thingy and now that the trans is out, it will be easy to make new KD brackets for a 100% cable fit and also test/redo the shifter linkage that is looking very suspicious... Need also to test the restored dipstick on it as well, make teflon cooler and vacuum lines..

 

All with all, very happy to have it all back together, looking good and to ok specs.

Learned tons on the internals while busy and to be honest, it's not that hard once it makes sense. It's just an insane amount of rings to sort out :D

Last but not least, even with the extra tools I've bought for this, it's a massive saving post. Not to mention I was able to properly paint it while apart and re-plate parts.

Something that would not have been possible at a shop. Now I need a long warm shower.

 

To be continued...

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73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Dank je! @JD79

 

@midlife, @NOT A T5

Lol, tho you are both right! There is actually a bunch of left overs. Fortunately, nothing that should be inside is still outside! :D

 

The shift kit on itself comes with many springs for different applications (C6 version but also diesel etc..)

The overhaul kit also came with extra o-rings, gaskets etc ment for variation of the C6, covering 67-pre 76.

and also two extra sets of frictions that couldn't be squeezed in there.

Lots of used left overs too. All the original but replaced springs. I will not used them again in a trans, but if I need a spring for something else, its always nice to have a few spares in different dimensions and forces. Also bought a new bottom beveled pressure plate in case of for nothing.

Rest is ancient rubbers, o-rings and metal rings good for garbage. So yeah plenty left overs!

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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No parts arrived this week, some delayed by almost 2 weeks.. pfff

 

Oh well, plenty to do. The trans internals now done, I had lots of mess to clean up first, boxes to sort, rests to throw away..

Let the 73 warm up (excellent way to get some welcome heat in the garage too)

Once the surgery table was free, it was time to look at the next patient, still transmission related: the shifter and its linkage.

Not planning to have a dirty shifter or rusty linkage near my bling bling trans!!

 

 

shifter-removal.jpg

 

In order to remove it, I needed first to remove the top of the console with its optional extra holes, multiple screw types and a wonderfully installed and wired genuine 1980 electronic clock... Nothing better than a big bad household connector block to connect all this high tech equipment and secure all with Mechano parts...

 

 

shifter-out.jpg

 

Removal is pretty straight forward, 4 bolts to remove under the carpet on each corner of the shifter plate, surprisingly all originals and even saw that the harness unlike most of the electrics in the car, is original and in dirty but ok state.

Even discovered that the feed and 2 bulb sockets for the clock are still there, but not the clock. Preserved under the dirty carpet.

I'll deal with interior stuff much later, but I already know now, that I'll have to locate parts, repair and fabricate a few details too for that console... Also found some major cracks into the plastic that will need some heat.

 

 

shifter-in-juice.jpg

 

Well, just like everything else, I wasn't expecting to find anything pristine, as far as I can see, it's all there and looks pretty original while from a distance when I removed the trans, I thought it was modified. Nicely preserved under tons of grease. One can wonder how on earth is it even possible to have so much there... oh well, it's good news as this tells me I have a rust free tunnel and lower firewall! :)

 

 

puzzle-party.jpg

 

To put that thing apart for a good inspection before a massive clean up and restoration. The path to follow is obvious, but the practice a bit less. First the linkage needed go out, as it's always in the way during manipulations. Just 1 nut, but without vice and bits of leverage, no way to unscrew it. Then comes the contact plate hold, bit deep to access the tiny bolts head, also acting as ground, then the harness, where you need to push the grommet inside the casing and pass the wires thru the hole.

 

No more rubber (dust shield) in the indicator, and the PRDN21 letters are in need of a colour refresh. On the other side of the casing, some dried out rubber seal need go out and isn't reusable. The lever nut lock needs go out. It becomes accessible once the grommet (or what is left of it) is removed. It required some work, as it wasn't working with me. Had to re-engage the nut, and tap on it to extract it and provide some leverage from the other side to get it loose.

There is a lot of sideway play on this shifter lever, so ordered months ago some bushings that I'll use on the way back to fix this. Tho looking at it, I might also solder some aluminium in there instead, or both..

Then the tiny alen screw from the lever handle needs go out.

 

 

dissection-complete.jpg

 

Same sized alen for the dial indicator. I know the plastic marker (red mark) are in repop, but haven't seen the blue screen, so handled that one with care. Had to use a 5mm head bolt wrench for that one. Can't recall any bolts with such tiny heads on the entire car.

Then under the grease, found some flat screw head to loose the outer end, which is basically the tensioner of the little button that you pressed with your thumb (wait, how do Aussies and Brits do this when they move steer to right side? With their pinkies?? ) to be able to move the shifter from gear to gear. Usually this doesn't really need to be done, but noticed the button had to be pressed bit to much to allow movement on the teeth of the selector plate, so to tune it as I want it to be, I first wanted to see if nothing was wrong with the cable , but it needs to be cleaned up to receive new grease anyway. Not gonna skip steps on a 50 years shifter, tho I will not push the pin out on the other end as all can be cleaned and is accessible with a brush with bits of solvent.

 

And then the shifter became puzzle! :D

That's a bunch of parts for something that you think is a simple lever on a plate...

 

 

soda-bath.jpg

 

While some parts are taking an acid bath for the nite, started to clean up the casing. It will remain in soda for the nite...

 

 

Soapy & bubbly Sunday in perspective I'm afraid :)

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Excellent attention to detail, as always.

 

Fortunately they do reproduce the blue diffuser, mine turned to small fragments and dust in my fingertips.

https://www.npdlink.com/product/filter-shift-indicator-light-exact-repro-us-made-c8oz-15811-a/200277/203311

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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@Don C , @NOT A T5

Didn't know it was avail. Tho, I won't need it, mine is in one piece and I was able to clean it pretty well, very carefully with alcohol. It doesn't look as new, but fairly ok and it will diffuse as expected.

 

 

bubbles.jpg

 

As expected today was a soapy bubbly vinegary party and re- plated all the hardware.

Some were nicely preserved beneath the thick layer of greasy filth, others pitted as seen on previous post. Plated everyone.

 

 

electric-love.jpg

 

In between alternating parts in my bubble bath, cleaned up the electrics. Partly with agressive thinner to remove the loads of grease on the sleeve and rubber, the rest with alcohol. Gently brushed all the connections and finished by applying a good layer of plastic/rubber restorer so they'd be dust and moisture free for a while.

 

Meanwhile all the hardware was now looking pristine and I just needed to reassemble.

Before being able to do that, I needed find back the bushings that were, I perfectly recall, white and in a small in a small plastic bag. Somewhere in my cave...

 

 

plastic-refresh.jpg

 

After 1/2 hour searching in vain, totally not where they should be, instead of loosing time, I went working on the console cap/selector cover.

After a good alcohol clean up, removed the dial screen and the rest of what was a rubber dust shield. Taking care of not breaking the plastic. There are some nasty little clips that needs to be helped to allow them to go out. using a tiny screwdriver as lever, none of the plastic tabs were broken.

After a good clean, it was obvious the ancient plastic lost some of its glory, whitish in the lows, so did what worked nicely on my wife's Mini plastic trims. Sprayed a thin layer of semi gloss black from a distance and spread it while wet with a cotton cloth dipped in thinner.

Then pushed in one of the rubber dust shield in place, this time using a socket to press the clips back in, that I had also bended the opposite way so they'd do the expected once in place.

I do not like the way the rubber sticks to the lever despite some plastic restorer. I think I'll go for some teflon. If anyone as a trick for this, let me know as I recall it's the lack of lubrication that eventually tear them apart. @isostatic pubic air solution for this might be better...

 

Then returned searching for the bushings and finally found them back!

Not white, not in a bag, but black and in a labeled box!

That's the kind of clues I get these days, reminding me that my 25 birthday was long ago :D

 

 

shifter-done-kinda.jpg

 

With the bushings finally in my hands, few moments later, got my shifter assembly and linkage back together. All lubricated, clean and working as new. My eyes were totally pleased with what they saw! :D

 

Just like the transmission, most is done but it's not finished yet:

 

- The plastic gear indicator is now looking great after some cleaning/polishing, but the letters P, R and N have lost bits of their white. The D green is not looking great at all. The 1 and 2, that I now remark being light grey, are ok (not on the picture for some reason). So need to buy and apply some hobby paint for this. If anyone done this and have better idea, please shoot!

 

- The T handle is really pitted. I could polish it and nickel plate it, but I want white chrome. Chrome being too dangerous, as I saw they are repopped, I'll order a new one. Unless someone has an original, non pitted for sale, PM me as I'd preffer an original.

 

- The plug is in really bad shape. I could fix it, glue it back, but I think this 65-66 should do fine. (Haven't look hard for a 71-73 yet)

https://www.npdlink.com/product/plug-shift-control-adjust-hole/106036/203311

 

 

To be continued...

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73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Epic job on the transmission and shifter Fabrice

I might have a T handle but would need to check it is correct and in good condition when I get home tonight

I was going to use the original T-bar set up but due to RHD conversion was going to be difficult so I have a few spares left over

Maybe PM me with what you're after and will check it out tonight

P1030238.jpg
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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally a little update!

Past 2 weeks were very cold and very wet. Not to mention I had limited time and some of the parts I need to be able to finish some of the current projects

were kept at airports for much much longer than usual... Wanted to post during the week and then forgot :)

 

 

little-things.jpg

 

I did many little things not worth mentioning but that needed be done for both the 73 and the 71.

Like plating a few things on the block as I've noticed that the corrosion wasn't taking vacation, some other bolts here and there I didn't like the look of.

 

 

covers-and-transsupport.jpg

 

Also started prep the valves covers that I've de-rusted last year for a paint job, as I haven't found yet a pair of original aluminium ones

and don't think I will find a pair for a decent price. Decided to give the old taiwanese beauties a massage, which I'll of course will be able to finish only when weather will be much better.

 

 

engine-paint-finish.jpg

 

Then finished another thing that what was on the todo for months: apply a second layer on the engine now that all gaskets and sealant were cut. The top sides of the heads, that were still bare metal needed also to be done. After a thin layer of primer applied, sanded, applied the final coat of the Ford grey.

 

 

goodies.jpg

 

While some people are happy when they get something new, I was very happy that the package that was held in Chicago for almost a month finally arrived this past week with old dirty plastic stuffs :) Goodies I bought on the forum more than 2,5 months ago, like a pair of small front splash guards with their genuine indiana's dirt. The trans pan and a bolt kit and more goodies... all made possible thanks to @TonyMuscle who played mailbox for me. Received also other stuffs like polyurethane bushings, as I start to collect parts for the rear and suspension in general...

 

Happy days!

 

 

transpan.jpg

 

After so much wait, I went straight on the new pan for the C6, bought it a day that my mouse was too sensitive, as it was cheap and most importantly, had a plug and magnet. I still have the original, but it saves me the welding I was planning. Oh well, for once i have something new :)

Cleaned it very well and oil it already inside a bit as the chrome isn't that thick and it will take some months before I'm busy checking oil level..

As I do not have any bolts for the pan, I've ordered a nice set of SS bolts and washers too... unfortunately, the trans requires 16 of these, and there were only 15. So spent the next 1/2 hour looking in package papers and protection plastic if the 16th was in there... nope. 15 bolts, 16 washers :(

Oh well, no biggy let's install, I'll use some spare bolt I have at the less visible location... Not! Turns out the bolts are too long and hit the cast in the holes that do not go thru. At least 8 of them do not fit... grrr, can't finish the trans this weekend. C6 bolts pan kit they say...

 

 

splashguards.jpg

 

Frustrated, I've let the bling bling aside and went blow some steam on the indiana's dirt. Not obvious how bad on the picts, there were covered in some asphalt residues, like you would get on a fresh road. Took a few cc's of thinner to remove all, but eventually after a good massage and a plastic finish, got them looking better than the average splash guards you'd see around if you could! With the missing long one found and all 4 now restored, I can mark these as done.

 

 

exhaust-gaskets.jpg

 

Another desapointment with the goodies... I have on the 73 a set of copper gaskets for decades, headers/exhaust were disconnected many times, and everytime I needed a new gasket till I tried copper gaskets. Always in perfect shape, no paste needed, and no leaks when bolted correctly. They removed the need to wait 2 weeks and the costs for a new pair each time I needed the exhaust to be removed...

So of course I want the same for the 71 and ordered a pair. They have the same description as my old ones but obviously the quality lost some points over the years.

They now come as simple flat cuts. No more extra volume around the center hole to seal even better, they are also 1/2 the thickness of my old ones and what is totally idiotic, the center hole isn't even center between the 3 bolts holes! There is in the collector plenty space for the gasses, but man if you stamp parts as simple as these for the price they are sold and make hundreds of them, what about checking first if the holes are set where they should be before making any? I guess a hole is just a hole for some...

So will need to file them on a side between 2 holes just because it annoys me :) At least the holes for the bolts are ok and where they should be.

 

 

rubber-shifter.jpg

 

Some used parts necessary to complete my shifter assembly are somewhere between here and Australia (thx to @OzCoupe72 ), but one detail needed be done that I could do with local stuff. I've ordered a roll of self adhesive rubber 2mm thick that I wanted to have in house for multiple things. As I've noticed the shifter was having some kind of plastic film with sealant when I've removed it, I thought I'd do ok making a rubber gasket instead. Cleaner to install and to remove if needed. So made a quick template with my pizza box (was last one, need eat bad next week!!) I hope the missing parts will be here next week so I can finish this shifter.

 

 

I have some aluminium ready to make some parts on tomorrow's menu, that should accupy me for a few hours.

For now I need to define what the "ideal" size of these #$%^ pan bolts must be in the chinese to me inches and order another new set asap.

If anyone knows, please shoot!

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73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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This is what the hardware spreadsheet lists for the stock pan:

5/16-18X17/32HH,REC,FLNG 0.59,1/2HEX,GR5

This is on row 1116 of the spreadsheet provided by bkdunha:

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-71-73-hardware-information

 

He also provided updates, with additional information:

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-71-73-hardware-listing-from-concourse-forum

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“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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@NOT A T5

In my cave it's dry and smells Mustang. I wish I could live in there :)

 

Oh thank you @Don C

"5/16-18X17/32HH,REC,FLNG 0.59,1/2HEX,GR5" that line alone saves me the conversion headaches!

I've spent the day painting walls in my oldest daughter's new place, will look at this tomorrow...

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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This is what the hardware spreadsheet lists for the stock pan:

5/16-18X17/32HH,REC,FLNG 0.59,1/2HEX,GR5

 

Was bugging me, so thanks to your info, went seek in my 35 year old US Ford only rusty spare box of bolts & nuts.

and what do you know: I had 16 of these (even more) in house the whole time without me even knowing!

Not sure where I got them from, but hey, who cares I have them!!

 

Guess I'll be plating them soon. For now they are already enjoying an acid bath!

 

sweet-16.jpg

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Because the acid had done its work and because there was nothing on TV that could beat the idea of bling bling pan bolts.

Been busy in my cold garage last nite..

 

pan-bolts-c6.jpg

 

Out of their 24 hours acid bath, they went one by one take an electric massage, PH balanced, wooled and finished oiled/dried.

Pretty happy with my ex rusty bolt set :)

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73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Fabrice. Now you can use the other new 15 bolts as decoration for your Christmas Tree! lollerz

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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@tony-muscle

I will propose this wonderful idea to my wife... I'm sure she'll love the idea!

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Brrrrr. Wet & cold. Just like past 5 weekends, indoor Mustang stuff it is! :)

 

Still no sign of my parts from Australia supposed to be here last week, so I can't finish the shifter yet.

No prob, I got some fabs on to do: one of them is the throttle bracket.

 

As I have the Sniper EFI for the 429 already in house, I knew from the install I did on my 351 for the same device that the throttle bracket doesn't align with the unit linkage.

A quick install of the unit on the intake confirmed the issue, tho, way less than on the 351c.

Instead of 3.5cm offset found on the cleveland, projecting the line of the cable along the body to the bracket gave me only 1/2 cm...

 

 

throttle-bracket.jpg

 

As the diff wasn't that much, I thought about the easy way, that is modifying the original bracket restored a while back, but as I also will use a cable for the kickdown, i need a hole lower too and the part being curvy at that location, I decided to make one from scratch instead.

Plus I didn't like the idea to butcher that original part. Even if it likely with collect dust on the original intake for a very long time if it ever gets used again.

 

The original bracket has this shape not for nothing, clearly made to withstand the force that each time the cable is under tension would add some metal fatigue with a little bending at the base. So as a 50 tons press is not part of my tooling, went for an aluminium sheet of 3mm. Made a template of the original and cut a bit differently than the original to allow me to have 2 90 degs bends reproducing the same strength.

 

Out of aluminium, I got lucky and found few rests, only one allowed to fit the shape. No error allowed :D

Made my holes, using a electric saw with very raw teeth designed for aluminium, cut the shape and bent that baby together.

Finally, as the second fold has not much purpose to the base if its not welded back to it.

Used again these wonderful alumnium rods to do this after a good SS brushing. Unlike this summer where the repair of the thin headlight brackets screw holes was to the rod melting temperature in matter of seconds.

It took for this thickness much longer (stupid me forgot to isolate the bracket from the vice metal ). My torch was almost out of gas (lazy flame), so once dead, a new cardridge helped speeding up the process and finally got a nice solid solder bead.

Finished it by filing the edges and a quick polish.

 

 

bracket-done.jpg

 

At some point, I've declared the bracket good enough. Even fairly looking as the original, but having of course, the 1/2 cm offset and the extra hole for the kick down cable (that was supposed to be here 2 weeks ago... what's wrong with post services these days?? )

Bolted it on, checked the alignment, all fine. Using a fair amount of force, way more than the cable could possibly generate, did not get any movement in it. Bracket: done!

Sniper EFI installed in matter of hours they say :)

 

More fab tomorrow...

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73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Great job on fabricating a new bracket just annoying when you don't have the cable to try it out

I see your customs dept has had your package since last Thursday and maybe they are trying to find a way to tax you for it

Post always takes longer in the silly season but hopefully they will get it moving to you tomorrow

P1030238.jpg
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@OzCoupe72

Thx. Brackets are often seen as second rank citizens on a car. The time necessary to make one can be overlooked too. Plus this one is more important than one may think regarding safety.

 

Oh great, was still in Perth when I've check Friday. Sure it's busy season right now, but I see 1 on 2 package since October taking much more time than usual.

As long as all arrives and in one piece I don't mind waiting... Ok I lie, I do mind, I want see the parts! :D

 

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Today on the todo was to fab a new glove box from a sheet of 1mm aluminium...

 

 

paper-glovebox.jpg

 

In a very poor state just as many glove boxes in 71-73, the goal today was to reproduce the paper/cardboard shape for this short glove box (I think I recall non AC ones are bit deeper).

I simply dislike the poor material choice Ford made for this, even a plastic glovebox would have been better. There might be re-pops available, I don't know.

A repop, probably even worse than the original would hang shapeless soon or later again anyway.

So time for some fab using bits more noble material than the original cheapo cardboard!

 

 

aluminium-glovebox.jpg

 

Once flat, traced with a sharpy and a marker the shape. As my original was very vague at the folds, the marker was for the contours, the sharpy to pick a more logical line based on how the sides must come together with a harder material.

Despite how simple cutting a sheet of 1mm may sounds, the practice showed pretty much the opposite. To keep the visible surface with no marks and create no crease during the cutting, it took way more time than expected, even using a very thin cutting disc. Once done, de burring the other side edges took a while as well.

Much more easy to work with 3mm like I've used yesterday!

The second problem I've encountered is that no matter which side you fold first, there is no real way to continue to use a metal breaker. Unless you'd have a long, with high jaws to allow sides to fold while only partially under pressure at the fold line. Happy me, my work bench is having a large wooden vice, so made most the folding by hand on it and ended up with all the holes matching the plastic ones.

 

Still need to finish it, rubber will be added on the bottom matching the plastic thickness on the front and set back the little thingy (supposed to hold papers I think, now enjoying a derust bath) and of course restore the plastic.

For now, temperature was really too cold for me to stay longer in the garage and called it a day.

 

To be continued...

  • Like 2

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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When I started reading about your replacing the glove box with different material, I immediately thought that you were going to use your pizza boxes as material. But noooo..., you had to use metal. Oh well...carry on with your good work.

  • Like 2

Let me check your shorts!

http://midlifeharness.com

cactus.jpg.92e5d9d8700abc0ed60c8ccb3426248e.jpg

 

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@midlife

Lol :D

 

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2 of the packages in transit for weeks finally arrived. Made me forget the misery weather!

 

 

converter.jpg

 

One of them was my converter. A Hughes 35-25, 12 inches, with a 2.2-2.5k that should behave nicely with my not too wild cam. I went for a Hughes mainly because for the specs I wanted it was together with another brand the only 2 offered for a human price.

The other similar in price/specs, wasn't on E-bay while this one was to be found with the global shipment option on via Jeggs. Meaning shipping of this heavy baby would not double the price: sold!

 

I'll spare you the story, just that Hugues contact/support emails on their site are totally useless. Via via got their tech dude claiming the converter is like the original (with studs) but that 4 nuts (not provided) are required. When you know 4 of these would arrive for above 80 buxx here via Summit or similar which is kind of.... nuts, I've looked hard online and got my 4 non metric bolts grade 8 this week for under 20. They arrived the same day as the converter.

 

Once the box open, said first some bad word loudly as it came without studs, grrrr but then was nicely surprised once I've lifted out, to see 4 bolts were provided!

Glad I did not order the nuts for the gold price... Why can't they just describe their product properly, answer the mails??

I need 4 nuts in engine bay and these may very well be of the right size, so a smile was back on my face!

 

Tho before having a happy dance, I first made sure the converter was meeting each and every specs. Lubbed both shafts, poured some oil into the converter and tested it..

Yes! Both shafts indexed in it nicely, all turning smoothly with zero play and the crank pilot was as it should be.

To celebrate, primed the pilot as the paint was damaged and wrote some tech stuffs on the other side for the future me that will prolly forget what kind of converter I've bought back in 2019 :)

Placed it back in the box: Converter: check!

 

 

glovebox-done.jpg

 

Then came back to my unfinished glovebox. Plated the "paper holder" or whatever that is, just to say the original spirit is there and placed it back. Then cut the rubber to size, freed the screw holes, restored the plastic.

I'll test fit it back in the car later on, for now, I can mark the glovebox done too!

 

 

scoop-LH.jpg

 

Went on to my next patients: the ram-air scoops. Dirty, rusty and full of overspray/ugly paint. Mainly Gold and black from the Hertz themed paint job.

First step was to put them appart. As I do not want to loose anything, I'll do one at a time. Good news is that both vacuum actuators work, so I will not have to open them to restore the diaphragm.

Once the 6 rusty staples were out, it opens with no problems as I was expecting some glue in between, but no. Removing the butterfly was more difficult as the axle is rusted and could not be pushed from the outside. Had to use some force, carefully, to expend the plastic a few mm and get the axle out. Re-installing it back should go much smoother.

 

 

prep-for-bath.jpg

 

Once out, a little persuasion with a small hammer got it loose. Both of them are should look much nicer tomorrow.

A good thinner wash showed me the paint was almost dry when it landed onto the plastic, so using a flat but not sharp knife (don't want to damage the plastic) I was able to lift it all from the inside.

 

The outside is another story, paint much thicker, tho managed to get rid of a big deal already.

As I don't trust paint remover on plastic, looks like I'll be enjoying this tedious work a little longer tomorrow..

  • Like 1

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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