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Fabrice's 429CJ 71 project


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scoop-LH-blingbling.jpg

 

Cooked during the nite and ready this afternoon, the axle, butterfly and actuator went thru my magic vinegar soup and after a quick soapy wool massage,

got them all to a state they haven't been seen into for decades. Comparing the to be done actuator makes it more obvious! :D

Tried the axle and as expected, it now slides into the butterfly smoothly, so reassembling the scoops together should go much easier.

 

 

scoop-LH-done.jpg

 

With generations of oversprays and dirt also gone, the plastic looks much better.

I need to find staples and a plastic polish paste as the surface isn't nicely even. The inside will do fine as is.

If I can get the other side looking as good as this one I'll be a happy man!

 

 

scoop-RH-paintfree.jpg

 

In between paint removal and plating, also corrected the edges with heat. Very carefully blowing hot air and pressing them flat. Some places were really wobbly. Even if it translates the quick way they were assembled originally at the plant, I couldn't let them like this!

The RH side was more tedious for the paint removal, but got eventually everything off of it. Reviving the plastic will be done later on, hopefully using some plastic polishing paste if I can find some by next weekend.

 

The metal parts not yet cooked (when it's cold the acid takes more time to be effective), I couldn't plate this side today, so rest of the afternoon went on cleaning the garage a bit, and prepping a new bracket for the KD cable on the trans, will post on that next time unless my shifter parts finally arrive next week.

 

All with all, another weekend with many time consuming details now done! Well almost :)

 

To be continued...

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73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Looking good, as always. Too bad the chromates are so hazardous, it would be nice to duplicate that yellowish coating without resorting to gold plating :)

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Looking good, as always. Too bad the chromates are so hazardous, it would be nice to duplicate that yellowish coating without resorting to gold plating :)

Yes, yellow or white/blue passivation would be great,

But that's where I draw the line. I use only harmless chemicals as I hope to live long enough to actually enjoy the car finished ! :)

 

Most annoying is that using yellow or white/blue chromates, I'm just a dip away and wait till it's dry! Getting that iridescent purple/yellow finish.

Tho over here, I could only get the white/blue thru Germany, as its a level 3 hazard (yellow is 4 and restricted to pro use) and can be purchased in low quantity without licence.

Requires extra insurance costs for shipping too. 

 

 

Btw got a question you might know an answer to.

I'd like very much to set back plain nails as the original ones. Do you know how they are called and/or which tool I'd need to mount them?

EDIT: nvm, found tool+nails.

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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americas-finest.jpg

 

What the hell is that goo poo... thing? I hear you say!

 

Well gentlemen, this magnificent piece of shite sold for just $105 (got it with $10 discount) with $125 shipping, $45 dollars import taxes is my long awaited quality repro 429CJ fan shroud (DOOZ-8146-D) that finally arrived today!

I've contacted 4 US companies to buy it, 2 replied. 1 of them wouldn't sell it to me claiming it wasn't for Mustangs at all! (thx to my friend @Secluff knowing serials better than them, I knew it was the right one!). So ended up ordering it by the one that seamed to know a bit about what they sell and actually wanted to do business: Eckler's. All 4 companies sell the same item that is from Mac antique cars.

 

On the site, the text and image described something I wanted.

https://www.ecklers.com/radiator-fan-shroud-abs-plastic-429-v8-90-48386-1.html

 

 

quality-control.jpg

 

Made In The U.S.A. High quality reproduction....

Ridiculous considering, but had got a good laugth as on the other side (which reproduces the texture of the moon after a nuclear attack), some sticker shows that this thing was actually inspected!

The sticker even got a note written by hand! How authentic is that!? Now, it says "aw". As it can't be "Awesome" is it short for "awhhhh" or "awful"??

 

Let's just say USA made isn't what it used to be... what used to be a rare thing is now practically 1 on 2 items I receive the case: The quality I pay for isn't there.

So this expensive piece of shapeless ABS plastic will now cost me even more time and money to be corrected.

Of course as sending back isn't an option, I'm gonna send some spicy mail to Eckler/mac just so they know what I think about their controlled quality...

 

I now regret to not have sticked to my first plan that was to make one myself out of aluminium! @Motor City Mustang even took time to send me picts of his original and took measures I could have used for that.

I have tons of the todo, but I might very well do it at some point and throw this expensive abomination away if fixing it is too much work.

 

 

RH-scoop-plated.jpg

 

Oh well, it's Mustang time and temperature being bellow freeze, can't stay still staring at this thing any longer. Let's get back on the scoops where i've left them last week...

Finished the RH metal parts and heated straight back the covers as the other side and revived a bit their apperances. Its ABS plastic day today afterall :)

 

 

scoops-reassembly.jpg

 

Time to reassemble: It took me a while to get the right term in Dutch to get them before the weekend, but found in an RC shop my "axle securing washers" (that's the dutch translation) and they arrived by post this afternoon. Perfect timing!

These are found in mutiple places on our cars and never had some in case one would fly away (and they often do that). As the scoops ones were corroded and hard to plate, decided it was the time to have some in different radius in house. The 4mm are the exact replicas of the original ones! (top left pict, new and old) As no tiny flat heads solid rivets with short tail were to be found, placed the nicest SS ones I had in house instead to hold the canisters. If I can find some one day, I'll replace them as I'd prefer flat ones as the originals.

The plastic still looks a bit wavy, but is flat once screwed on flat surface and should look fine once back on the hood.

The staples were somewhat challenging and wasted at least 10 before have them all back in or very near original holes. Their legs are a bit longer, but as it's not visible, dit not cut them. When I'll polish the plastic, i'll prolly brush them black.

Once all was back in place, tested all and it seams like I have good looking & functional scoops again!! yeah! :)

 

 

scoops-done.jpg

 

I still need to find a way to polish that abs and get rid of its ancient scars, but if you compare the "before" picts of last week with these, you might undertsand why I'm a happy man!

 

Now time for a super long hot shower. brrrr!

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73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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All that comes to mind after reading this is AAAAAAARRGGH!

 

How frustrating can ordering overseas get? :-(

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Xmas was 2 weeks ago, was for me today, as after weeks of delays all the goodies I was waiting for showed up this past week. First box was the most necessary: a new heater, mine died a few weeks back, and with the dog weather we have, it was nice to keep a dry pink nose vs a red one with a drup while busy :)

 

 

shifter-done.jpg

 

Another one was the long awaited package from @OZCoupe72 that stayed forever at the Dutch customs.

Thanks to Mick, I could finish my shifter with his handle and few other details.

As I've replated the spring and nuts of the tensionner, some efforts went into finding the right tension to change positions and lock nicely into the teeth of the guide. Moments later I could mark the shifter as done!

 

 

prototypes-kd-lever.jpg

 

Rest of the day was about installing/putting together some of the tools that also arrived (at least one should be in action by tomorrow). And went back to what I've started last week: make new bracket for the kickdown cable that also arrived from China. Quality is same as the expensive Lokar that I have on the 73. Nice SS braided sleeve with SS cable, nice nuts etc..virtually identical except on the price.

 

As I want a shorter cable than on my FMX, which I know now is quicker said than done, the linkage being in the way and needs to be higher than the trans shifter axle to inverse the push to pull motion while keeping the traveling distance identical as the original lever. To get there, looks I'll need to spend much more time than I did on the FMX.

Did 3 prototypes already this afternoon and looks like I'm gonna need to make a 4th one before be able to have the one!

 

In another register, mailed this week to Eckler's about what I think of their beautifully crafted fan shroud and most importantly asked them what they think/will do about it. Not formulated using the most diplomatic verbosity ( I'm french after all), the automatic reply promessed 4 days ago a reply within 1 to 2 working days (they did reply within 2 days when I've requested shipping costs details). Till this day nothing. Either Eckler's is playing the chicken card or they already are busy fixing some urgent internal affairs (working day and night making a new one to honor their good name) or they are in shock, speechless after they saw the pictures of their high quality product and need few days to recover before come back to me or, and as of today that's the most probable: they don't care at all and hitted the delete button!

I'm gonna wait bit longer before they can enjoy the sound of my french accent, but I want and will get a reaction from them!

I've looked at that thing today (my eyes bled again) and I just can't let them go away with this that easy. It's criminal so bad.

I'll keep you informed on how that story develops if it develops at all... Meanwhile stay away from Mac's/Eckler's or make sure you see before buy.

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Time for a little update!

 

 

swaybar.jpg

 

Day started with discovering my swaybar that came this week.

The box was huge, I was kinda worry it would become a problem as my space/storage is more than limited, but no, the box was full of nothing :)

After at least 30 years without, this car will finally have a swaybar back on!! The 429's supposed to have a bigger one than with other engines, of 1 inch but also made of unnobtainium, so found this nice #5468 swaybar from Belltech that is just a bit thicker (which cannot hurt) and it was on E-bay offered with a human price. Sold!

Frustrating a bit to not be able to try that baby yet, oh well, at some point in time, it's gonna be xmas everyday!! :)

 

 

lever-KD-C6.jpg

 

Did not post past Sunday because I've spent whole Sunday making prototypes brackets for the kickdown that will be actuated by a cable.

Not that I like making prototypes, more because it turned out to be much more complicated than anticipated. Made 4 to pick the right angle, traveling distance and orientation and finally got the one in place. The hole that is actually not a round hole nor a rectangle to lock on the axle was also fun to make! :D

 

Why brackets btw??

Just like for the FMX kit used last year on the 351c, the cable kit for C6 is nowhere near what I want: short exposition of the cable, no hanging, have the cable in line with lever for a good pull.

I would gladly use the KD rod that I have, but Holley Sniper's are not aligned exactly the same way and do not support the Ford kickdowns anyway.

 

 

cable-tensionner-KD-C6.jpg

 

Next was the bracket to hold the sleeve, tension the cable. There too, easy pizzy I thought.... well not quite, tho less challenging than the tiny lever.

Made few carboard models and 2 aluminium prototypes before get one that had the strength to not bend when cable is tensioned, have the smallest distance from the lever while shifter linkage in all positions, be in line when pulling, not touching the round trans casing, allowing the belt nut to be accessed and last but not least, have a shape that follows the lines of the transmission to please my eyes! :)

 

The two challenging babies allowed me to test my new polishing wheel. Doing more and more plating lately, and with all the fabs that I plan to do, I thought it was time to invest in one.

No regret, it brought the two newly made parts to a chrome like finish without a drup of elbow oil! :)

 

 

just-to-compare.jpg

 

Here just to compare what the kit provides for the same purpose... nah!!! :D

 

 

vaccum-line-c6.jpg

 

Next on the todo was to replace the old vacuum line, totally floating on the trans, out of shape and rusty. The idea was to create some kind of stud/bolt that would keep it in place.

All was fine till I realised I couldn't keep the radius that was just the tube diameter, as I just have inserted it before bent the tube. Making the hole bigger allowed it but too near of the side

I've ruined the bolt :( Oh well, no biggy as I think a plastic one will do a much better job... but no idea where to find that perl...

Also for once I have flaring tools in US size, I've ordered tubes in metrics! duh! So couldn't flare the ends nicely. So will have to buy a metric one as I plan to fab few brake and fuel lines later this year too.

 

Oh and back to that Ecklers's story with my melted horror fan shroud. It took a while and a few nicely formulated emails to get an answer, but finally got a reaction!

And not a bad one! They've actually controlled their stock and found out they have quite a few in similar condition.

They told me they have ordered a series of new ones and should be done by the end of this month. The manager promised me to personally check the part before ship it.

I'll have to wait and see the part here, but for now, looks like I might have what I've payed for mid February after all...

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73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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  • 2 weeks later...

Another horrible weather weekend passed...

Ideal weather for not very thrilling stuffs that need be done anyway. Been so busy lately, I could not bring the energy to post anything as I use to.

so trying to correct that today.

 

Not entirely sure what I'll do with my interior (the door panels especailly), make new ones or restore.

As the driver panel is already out, I decided to find out first before eventually re-fab everything what I can save...

 

door-rubber-handle.jpg

 

Everything in the interior looks bad, faded, dirty, damaged: all but the freshness I'm after.

I started by experimenting with all kind of things to see what's gives most success. From thinner to biting chemicals. The first victim was the door handle. Very ugly, corrroded...

 

Many drups of elbow oil later, after agressive treatment, derusting and plating, my driver handle ended up looking not so bad, in fact, it's looking pretty good now. Aside the absence of one nut, if I can save the other side same way, I think, i'll be able to reuse them.

 

 

one-week.jpg

 

Started last week, as the panel was distorted big time at the top front and behind, I've let it under pressure for the whole week, with weights and wooden bits underneath to force the distorts back.

It's bad weather, so let's use that moisture in the air me dunk! After a week, the massive distort was gone and just a massage with heat and cork block did alright to refill the air bubbles in the foam underneath. If I need make a mould of it, I need it to be straight anyway...

 

 

another-week-press.jpg

 

Almost black from dirt, the carpet abused with shoes for years at the front showed some wear, so after a very good cleanup, a hair cut: what do you know, the color regained freshness and the panel started looks way less bad than before. As the bottom is totally warped along the length and the board now soaked in water, I've removed the chrome trim, clearly bended, air blowed all the water I could from the carpet and placed all under pressure between 2 serious piece of wood.

See you in one or two weeks to see if that helps!

 

 

chrome-restored.jpg

 

Just before the press, removed the trim, while full of dents and wrong curves, it was just like the panel, not straight at all.

So now that the panel is set to dry slowly in shape, I've carefully restored the straight line, and as the trim was having lots of scratches, gave it some love with my new toy and in no time, it was back to a mirror finish!

 

 

window-trim.jpg

 

In between panel parts restoration, as the machine was now on table, also gave some love to the really corroded windows trims that I could not really get to a satisfactory level by hand. Bling bling now!! The more I use it, the more I think I'll love this machine! :)

 

 

latchdoor-release-handle-fab.jpg

 

Still raining outside, went back to the car and picked my Sunday activity: the fold down door latch locks (or whatever these are called)

Totally in their juice, not really moving smoothly making difficult to lock the latch in place and the right side having a funky replacement for the original handle. I've started by cleaning them real good, and while some were in acid, others in plating bath.

Went busy and tried to reproduce the missing pull handle. Luckyly, among my "you_never_know_it_can be handy" stash of old metal, I had an an iron rod, originally made to open windows curtons in house. Rusty yes, but the exact radius and strength I needed!

Using the right one as a patern to define the bending shape, made some primitive but strong setup with washers, screws to bend the quite strong rod to the hopefully same same as the original one.

Not really disappointed by the first attempt, with the help of extra hammering efforts, it gave me an almost identical part. Last detail was to file a recess for the lock allen screw and I was pretty much done!

 

 

latchdoor-release-handle-plated.jpg

 

Fast forward after each and every bits of both sides went thru cleaning, polish, derust and plating. I ended up with 2 sets as new :) The funny part is that the original actually looks less nice that the new one!

Next weekend, i'll put these back together and go back to the panel. I'm investigating ways to inject foam, as there is a hole underneath a big crack I need to repair. All depends if the stuffs I've ordered will be there on time or not.

 

To be continued...

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73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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cable-tensionner-KD-C6.jpg

 

 

Hopefully I didn't miss it in your description, but I am curious about the notch you made in the center of the bracket's end where is bent 90 degrees and has the cable attachment (bottom left picture). That's an interesting notch to make the angle bend stronger. How did you do that?

 

Edit: this is what I mean

cable-tensionner-KD-C6-mod.jpg

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Hopefully I didn't miss it in your description, but I am curious about the notch you made in the center of the bracket's end where is bent 90 degrees and has the cable attachment (bottom left picture). That's an interesting notch to make the angle bend stronger. How did you do that?

 

I have strong teeth!! :)

tho in this case I might also have placed the part locked in vice with wood in between. as the angle is 90 deg, I used an old chisel with a not too sharp edge (pretty round actually) set at 45 deg and slammed it to desired depth. A square tube placed on one edge would so same but not very handy to slam on it. In this case, the bracket is made of 3mm aluminium folded slowly and as the cable once properly adjusted should never offer a great resistance, it's probably overkill but simply liked the extra!

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73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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The site was down this weekend and couldn't post an update. And then I forgot :)

As its still cold and still wet, I've continued spend my past weekend afternoons on small things...

 

 

rear-latch-door-handles-done.jpg

 

First task was to put back the restored latches/locks on the rear door. I''ll remove them again when I'll handle the door/trunk but wanted make sure all was ok. Even with a non aligned setup, the door now opens and closes as it should and the handle looks a whole lot better than it was! :)

 

 

glovebox-test-fit.jpg

 

Also test fitted the glovebox made a couple of weekends ago and aside 1 screw that did all it could to resist to align and engage, all was fine. This one will also be removed when i'll restore the dashboard, but if some changes needed be done, i wanted do them now. No need as it fitted as a glove!

 

 

windshield-reservoir.jpg

 

A while back, received a bunch of used parts from Indiana and Wisconsin. Among them a supposed to be fonctional windshield reservoir. Turns out it was not that great, not even functional, but as I kept the old one of my 73 (using a much smaller hidden one and have double oil filters where its supposed to hang on it)

I've compared them and saw the reservoir was nicer, the lid without any burned marks but the cap was gone. So performed a little transplant plastic surgery (pun intended). Few cuts, plastic melts, cleaning and sanding further ended up with a good as new reservoir. Tested the pump dry and looks like all should be fine. Not even sure Ill use it as it takes lots of space but at least I have it in good condition now.

 

 

console-misery.jpg

 

As I was into the car, removed the dirty and ugly long console to get a better looks at the misery.

In between clouds, put it appart and gave it a good cleaning wash. After a good inspection, looks like this one gonna need a massage to regain a bit of its lost youth... :)

Lots of breaks and dents, holes... reminds me my grille!

 

 

console-repair.jpg

 

Anyway, so started with the top, which had some hole drilled for some reason, prolly a switch or light. Went pick another piece of the old donor 71 grille and used that to fill the hole. An era correct patch if you will :)

The challenge here being to keep some of the grain. Started by filling the melting plastic with a piece of sanding paper to keep it flush but not flat may i'd need to sculpt a tad later on. Once done, prepped a tiny bit of bondo, and right before it started to cure, placed a piece of real leather with similar grain onto it and left it that way. I have yet no clear idea how that will look, but it should look better than with a hole.

 

 

box-fix.jpg

 

The next patient was the inner box. How one can and did make such hole in there is a mystery. For that one picked a straight part of the old grille,next to the corral for another era correct patch :) because the shape was too complex, I started by making it worse but with straight lines to ease the template making. Once the the template was fitting ok, did the hot surgery and after a quick sanding it ended up not that bad. Too cold to continue, I'll fine tune the little defects later on. For now even if repaired rougthly, I'm pleased the patch worked nicely and the box regained its strength...

 

I still have more smokey fixes to do on the console, but so far so good!

Meanwhile I've kept the door panel under pressure for another week as it wasn't yet completely dry.

 

to be continued...

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73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Nice work as always. Did you have a set of plans or dimensions/cuts/bends for the glove box insert that you would be willing to post?

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Nice work as always. Did you have a set of plans or dimensions/cuts/bends for the glove box insert that you would be willing to post?

I'd gladly share if I had one. But as you can see on previous page, I've used the old mouldy cardboard to cut the aluminium. The trick is to use the center of the folds, which are much wider on the cardboard than what you need (depends on thickness that you use and folding direction). Also you need to drill at connection points which isn't in the original, so the metal doesn't get ugly folds. For the rest, it's pretty straight forward. I did it using 1mm sheet, but regretted a bit not use 2mm, which would have allowed me to solder instead of using rivets.

It's not original, but I think its a pretty alternative to the cheapo cardboard.

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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First task was to put back the restored latches/locks on the rear door. I''ll remove them again when I'll handle the door/trunk but wanted make sure all was ok. Even with a non aligned setup, the door now opens and closes as it should and the handle looks a whole lot better than it was! :)

 

 

You may want to wait putting in those very standard door handles until you've seen mine (in about 4 years I think) coz they'll look awesome and you'll want them too.

Just saying ....

 

 

lollerz lollerz lollerz

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@Vinnie, oooh peleaaaase, not that!!

For your own safety I will not reveal on this respectable forum what you are thinking of doing.

I told you already, I have 4 (likely more) years to teach you the donts when it comes to our beloved classic Mustangs! :D

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73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Nice Job of making one good looking reservoir out of two not so good looking.

 

PS: on my end I may do something similar to fix my old working reservoir with a piece of the one we bought.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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@tony-muscle

[Nice Job of making one good looking reservoir out of two not so good looking.]

Thx Tony, you know like no other how they were looking! Plastic is certainly a pain to work with but you can bring them back to a durable and acceptable finish.

oh and btw, I have not finished to play with it yet but I have managed to unlock the pump out of the casing... sooo I may restore the broken one and keep it in case the good one breaks on me at some point.

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Another dog weather weekend passed, so been again been busy with details...

 

hinge-central-console.jpg

 

As the rubbery console armrest could not open and close smoothly due to corrosion. I've restored the hinge. Removing the axle without damaging it wasn't that easy as it was really stuck, no matter the penetrating oil I've spent on it. But eventually at the end of the weekend got it back as new and it now pivots as expected.

 

 

ashtray-drawer.jpg

 

The next patient was the ashtray drawer. While the rail/frame was taking a bath to remove the rust that was popping up here and there, handled the drawer cover first. made of zamak and with uneven cracked paint, I went for paint stripper as I didn't want to add anymore damage to the grain surface by sanding it. Couple of hours later. The cover regained some youth. I'll prime/paint it once I know what I want for my interior..

 

 

ashtray-drawer-2.jpg

 

In paralel with the drawer, the rail had to be restored too. While the previous acid bath had removed all the rust, it is covered in some kind of coating and my paint stripper did not do much to it, so had to use elbow oil to help the process. Once I got it to an acceptable result, masked the plastic rails (resisted to remove them as I do not have such little rivets in house and there was no sign of corrosion around them). Then, as it was pouring outside, sprayed with door open alternated with heat gun between layers. The original hardware, at least the flat head screws that I cannot find over here, were meanwhile also restored and by the end of the day, ended up with a drawer unit good as new. With the ashtray repop that I have, that should look pretty ok! :)

 

 

door-panel-straight.jpg

 

This past Sunday, just before rain came back, freed the panel from the press it stayed into for past 2 weeks and was happy to see that the bottom that was more than wavy regained its nice straight original line.

A quick test on the door showed a nice overal fit. Still not decided on what I'll do later on. I know at least I only need to fix the vinyl crack at the elbow recess and could reuse the panel as is, may I'd go for the original route.

 

 

console-repair.jpg

 

I've made some stinky smoke too! :) Fixed the main crack and 2 others that I've discovered while busy on the inside. As the plastic is weak by design there, also added a reinforcing layer in the inside to make sure it won't crack again. Then did a bit of inspiration, using american wallnut wood and natural leather to see how I could marry original and noble materials (horrible lighting on the pict). Just the touch of them is so much better that this cheapo plastic.

 

As I need to focus on the 73 first to free the garage for the 71, I've placed back the half restored console parts into the car and will return to them once I know what I'll do with the interior... Need do some designs/material choices some time this year for this.

 

So yeah, not a very thrilling weekend, but glad these details are now done.

 

To be continued.

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73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Well done, as always Fabrice.

 

Those screws can be hard to find, even when you know the right name for them: truss head screws. I found one local hardware store that has them. I don't have a clue what they would translate to.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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@Don C. [even when you know the right name for them: truss head screws.]

We all know the truss is out there. Question is indeed where!!! :D

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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  • 3 weeks later...

I haven't posted as I used to lately for different reasons.

First we had some storm coming our way and needed prep a bit the house, then my T-bird got wind damage (drove in high winds and front lights covers were ripped off it)

so gave it some love (and replaced the damaged parts with my 91 parts) for the rest I've been busy on the 73, as I need first to get it done to be able to continue on the 71 inside.

 

But as this weekend was a dog weather AGAIN, I could not work on the 73, so I went back to details.

There was some offer on E-bay for a non working clock (which I don't have), that came with the clock cover that is damaged and full of holes on the 71, the harness also missing on the 71 and the top console cover, which is was cut in 1/2 in my 73.

So bought it and got it last week as it would fix multiple problems/missing parts.

 

 

clock.jpg

 

I've started of course looking at the clock first, as it has a GT stamp, I knew right away that I was looking at a hopeless case. But me being me, I needed try anyway! :)

So put everything apart and found out the expected: the coils got hot and eventually shorted everything. The plastic holding them, the feed and more gears supposed to be inline

was broken in 3 pieces. melted it all in one piece, realigned everything, soldered the broken wires, de-rusted a bit the gears, oiled them and as I expected: busted. No circuit, too much corrosion. As I planned a quartz alternative, I had wasted enuff time, so moved on to what really mattered to me: the parts that will be mixed with another mechanism (which I'm currently seeking)

 

 

clock-casing.jpg

 

De-rusted, removed the ugly paint that was on the plastics, plated the cover, cleaned up the dial, plated the hardware...

and ended up with good as new parts.

 

 

front-clock.jpg

 

After I gave it some love the clock cover ended up pretty ok. But because 2 of the plastic rods behind were broken and glued back badly at some point,

I have find some plastic rods and melt them on the back so I can mark this one done.

 

 

bubbles.jpg

 

The top console, that was of course not lighted on E-bay same way, showed the classic corrosion lifting the alumnium deposit... and had also 2 cracks, that i've repaired and worked away on the grain side with a thin layer of bondo applied with fingers.

Someone also sprayed some cheapo rubbery primer at some point and needed to remove all that before I could be busy trying to make it look good again...

 

 

top-console.jpg

 

The bubbly part went off easy, but it took me a while to get rid of the entire region to obtain a seamless blend with the rest.

Removing the bubble also answered my question about how I would be able restore the grain. Turns out the plastic has and keeps the grain. hence why it took a while to gently scratch the aluminium film away without damaging the plastic. As 50% was still sticking nicely, it was a patience game to get it done.

Removing the rubbery primer was also a source of fun (not). The thickness that was sprayed was insane.

 

Eventually, at the end of the day, I was happy to have all looking I wanted looking pretty good. As said above, next will be to merged a quartz 12v mechanism in this clock, may be custom 3d print some gears to keep the knob functional for the arrows... No rush as its all details. I'll post on this when and if I come to it.

 

Anyway, I will probably not post much (or nothing) on this thread in coming weeks, (may be couple of months) as I want the 73 back on the road and have the garage free for the 71. Unless of course if this dog weather keeps ruining my plans.

 

To be continued...

  • Like 1

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Looking good.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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As always your patience yields great results. You removed the aluminum deposit on the console insert the same as I do when I rework them. Razor knife around the base of the shown chrome areas and peel it off.

If you need a new lid for the console Daniel Carpenter does make them and they fit and look just like the original. They only come in black so will have to paint. I have used several of them. 

I have never found a great way to fix the foam that gets worn on top on the lid.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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  • 1 month later...

Very nice work Fabrice! I just completed going through the entire thread. You've got ambition going that's for sure! Both of your cars are going to be fantastic.

[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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