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Fabrice's 429CJ 71 project


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You are the man!  Could your o ring install be easier if you put them on in the outside in order so the grooves would be full as you passed over them?

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19 minutes ago, bishoppeak said:

Could your o ring install be easier if you put them on in the outside in order

The less you extend them, the better and in fact using the needle trick, only the thickness of the needle is added and its less distorting the material if you bridge, as once in lower region, its diameter is smaller than for instance if I'd come over the piston diameter as the pict may suggest where it will then become the diameter of the part plus its own thickness and that for a relatively long time. The most important thing to remember is that they expend a bit but unlike o-rings they do not return to their original volume as fast if at all. Making it a true pain to insert them into the bore with no to very little chamfer to guide them in IF you even manage to insert them without damaging them (watch a few vids on utube and look at how damaged some went back in). The big one behind the big cap passed in really on last minute before go plan B! 
Plan B is also something I've learned and did on the AOD, which is to give the ring the expected size, then freeze it for 3 to 4 hours  and then install. On AOD's and newer its almost mandatory as there is not even enough tolerance for a ring compressor.
So if I did not have succeeded fast, I would have compressed the circumference of the ring. I think plastic tape 2 or 3 times around with bits of tension would do the trick. Then when you install, the ring has less than the inside bore size and all goes in like a letter by the post. I know my AOD pistons went in that way and it was really a piece of cake to install. Once returning to ambient temperature, they expend back again to their destination size slightly above the bore size.

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Just FYI, getting the right rag joint (coupler) was kind of a hassle for me. If I remember correctly (it was a few years ago), my car ended up with a mixed unit made up of pieces from the dorman rebuild kit, a lares unit, and some of my original. None of the options I could find had everything correct. 
 

I remembered there was a great thread on it, so I did a search for you.   Apologies if you already know the thread (or may even be on it):

 

 

Lazarus

 

9-C51-EEB4-A25-A-4-F27-8-D01-0-EB879931296.jpg

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What gaskets did you use between the spindles and the dust shield ? Looks like they are in cork material but as they are distroyed and dirty...

Mustang, Mach 1 and 351

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Fabrice, brilliant documentation as always! 

For your parts search: the brake line or fuel line fasteners I bought from Don, the kit has them all, even the one with the special clip that will be put under the driver's feet 

https://www.ebay.de/itm/71-73-MUSTANG-BRAKE-AND-FUEL-LINE-FASTENER-KIT-V8-WITH-DISC-BRAKES/362183954266?pageci=35480bdc-0122-4b10-88bb-7c521ef0ba0f&redirect=mobile 

For the headlight parts search for 

'headlight adjustment kit 1971 Mustang' or 'headlight mounting kit 1971 Mustang' 

and have a look if you see what you need, then give a recall :thumb:

Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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1 hour ago, Manu Mach1 said:

What gaskets did you use between the spindles and the dust shield ? Looks like they are in cork material but as they are distroyed and dirty...

They are cork originally and can be ordered through West Coast Cougar Classics relatively cheap :thumb:

Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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On 10/18/2021 at 10:48 PM, Lazarus said:

Apologies if you already know the thread

Apologies for helping is not allowed in my book! :D 
After reading it, I recall now I thought back then I should take some notes knowing I'd need one. Guess I forgot like too many things these days! :O

Had a quick txt exchange with @Vinnie about this and was thinking about replacing the pins by custom ones. Baffles me that you start the production of parts like these in fairly big numbers without even checking on the cars you make them for!

I like the sleeve solution used in that thread. Less work and should be alright if pressed tight. Also thought about another option to somehow keep the old coupler metal and replace just the rubber, but that would work only if the pins are threaded at least on the old one, which is a big question mark. If heat was not a problem, welding would be easy.. 

Meanwhile, I'll contact Rockauto about this, because it's really not a good practice or even safe to sell important parts like this that you can't install without modification. Even if the design is a fail safe and the pins not that important while the rubber is fine, the smaller hole in flange will not accept the radius of the smaller one anyway. So this part should not be sold for our cars.

 

5 hours ago, timachone said:

For your parts search: the brake line or fuel line fastener

I have found and ordered a similar kit this morning and even another set with stainless clips that will prolly be nicer with my SS lines. 
Thanks for the link Tim

@Manu Mach1
You can also buy a gasket sheet and make a template. The external shape is the spindle flat surface. The center circle is easy to be cut with a sharp cutter blade and bits of focus. No need for high precision as they are mainly necessary for vibrations and damp the sound the dust shield would otherwise make. For the bolts holes, I use a small tube that I've sharpened on a drill, and I simply slam cut them. Works perfectly and that way you have confettis ready for the next party! :D

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73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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FWIW - The general consensus is that the 5/16" / 7/16" diameter pins on the factory steering coupler were chosen to make the column to steering box connection foolproof.  It rejects installation 180 degrees out.  If the choice is between a Scott Drake coupler with the correct diameter  but too short pins, or a Lares with the incorrect diameter but correct length pins I'd choose the Lares every time.  The Lares coupler still offers a connection between the driver and the road if the coupler rubber disk fails.  Only catch with it is that you have to me mindful not to assemble 180 degrees out.  

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22 minutes ago, Bentworker said:

Only catch with it is that you have to me mindful not to assemble 180 degrees out.  

The one above is a LARES 201 {#31015, 7828871}
The pins indeed have the same length as the original.
To illustrate your 180 degree comment, here a pict with the two next to each other with that rotation wrong while the other side (see above) looks the same.

coupler.thumb.jpg.6c72622fab48f2264901b79f1305e63e.jpg

 

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Here is my frankencoupler when it was getting installed. 
 

 It was a mix of all three I believe (original, Lares, Dorman rebuild kit?), but I don’t remember which piece was from which.  Hopefully the front and back image gives you an idea. 

2B155716-C21E-4766-8D8C-B918F7BBA8FA.jpeg

B3E52F82-E76F-4A70-B372-5151FAAD16C1.jpeg

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Lazarus

 

9-C51-EEB4-A25-A-4-F27-8-D01-0-EB879931296.jpg

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19 hours ago, Lazarus said:

Here is my frankencoupler

Looking safe to me!

Meanwhile mailed Rockauto as I bought it there and Lares. Rockauto, has some kind of retard in charge of replying to the mails, all he does is checking if order number fits the return policy. What you type has no influence on his brain and he simply copy paste the same "sorry too late" message he pastes whole day long.
No reply from Lares.

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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I remember I had the same issue on my first Mustang, ordered the wrong coupler.

Today, on the Mach1, I removed the Lares 202, and was able to connect the 201 I had since years, I don't really understand as it sould be or 36 or 31 splines...

And just realize I need to turn it half round

 

201.jpg

202.jpg

201..jpg

Edited by Manu Mach1

Mustang, Mach 1 and 351

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46 minutes ago, Fabrice said:

@Manu Mach1 The 201 is the one we need with power steering/Saginaw. I think the 202 is for tilt column, not sure tho, may be different gear box.

Btw Lares replied to me, they insisted the PINs diameter is not a safety issue and they said they have copied 1-1 OEM parts and have the right diameter. Not sure I agree with them as I have 2 used couplers from my cars and both are having a bigger and thinner pin, the flange also with not equal holes... Oh well, I'll test all this once i have that column out and restored and see if I need sleeve one pin.

----

 

 

 

The pin diameter difference is for the assembly line, so the steering wheel will be indexed correctly to the box. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

@Hemikiller Yes, once I'll try and i'm convinced the 201 Lare will do fine without extra work/mod, I'll keep in mind index the coupler with the intended rotation.

 

Almost weekend again and realise I did not update last weekend!! 

Nothing much to say or show tho as I've been busy on my 73 for details mainly, small leak at water neck to fix, some bolts to plate or replace.
On the 71 front: I have been able to continue throw away boxes with parts waiting after being restored and make room for the next big step.

wipers_mechanism.thumb.jpg.4c30f93e8743edc5b53550e8e783f6cf.jpg

Placed the wipers arms back. To ensure they are waterproof, instead of injecting some sealant during and afterwards, I decided to try to make gaskets out of a rubber sheet. Making the templates took a bit of time, as you can't really take a print easy and there are angles that force you to have oval holes rather than round.
The little extra work payed off, all seals well, and it's looking pretty ok. It actually looks better than on my 73 with the original sticky seal.

 

wipers_back.thumb.jpg.959ee2c33fb2d0dbf232c868cbf2acc4.jpg

The motor is back, tho, one of the holes that had been butchered, where a bigger metric sized bolt had been used. I will need to find a longer bolt to secure it from behind. Prefering adding an extra nut rather than change all 3 by bigger. Ofc, a longer one isn't to be found easy over here, so will look at ARP or similar place to find something to match the 3. Hood hinges and other details back on too.
 

more_back_on.thumb.jpg.316eb6ef9b8b0c3c53a1ef7adbda1009.jpg

All takes much more time that one may think!  Because of course years have passed since I've removed them and my old brain had to figure out where the hell were the hardware stored for that thing and that one and this one: what is this thing? Do I need it? :D
Loads on the front are not tightened yet, as I will need to play with them once I wil test fit them with the hood, grille, fenders etc..
And chances are also high I might even need to remove some when ill put back the 429, as I will prolly want to  keep the engine/trans weight near the hoist..

Even if it takes ages, it's still very plaisant to see all coming back! Soon I'll pack all this under protection and will move on to the middle of the car. interior floors, dashboard... back to misery soon ! :D

Oh and can someone tell me what is supposed to go into these square holes where the bumper brackets and reinforcement plate meet?
The ones that were on were non original rusty metrics bolts/nuts, and as my 73 was modified to replace the big bumper, I have no clue about what should go into these.
Bolts/nuts probably, but may be it is as on the rear bumper where some special j-bolts are required???


to be continued...

Edited by Fabrice
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73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Oh and can someone tell me what is supposed to go into these square holes where the bumper brackets and reinforcement plate meet?
The ones that were on were non original rusty metrics bolts/nuts, and as my 73 was modified to replace the big bumper, I have no clue about what should go into these.
Bolts/nuts probably, but may be it is as on the rear bumper where some special j-bolts are required???

 

Fabrice these are the bolts you need to put in the square holes.

 

 

IMG_2152.jpg

Just remember John Wick didn’t kill all those people for a random car. It was a Mustang

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