Jump to content

front disc brake conversion


Recommended Posts

so how many have done the front disc brake conversion ?

what is the difference in stopping power ?

is there a good inexpensive kit out there ?

would you do it again 

thank for any thoughts and help !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so how many have done the front disc brake conversion ?

what is the difference in stopping power ?

is there a good inexpensive kit out there ?

would you do it again 

thank for any thoughts and help !

 

I have.

Huge.

Yes. I opted for SSBC Kelsey-Hayes 4 piston style. Complete kit was around a grand, maybe less, NO need to change spindles with this kit!! That was huge for me.

Absolutely,

You're welcome!

Geoff.

OK, If you need an expanded post on the conversion, I'll be happy to help. I did the whole conversion in less than 3 hours and that was including adding new front brake lines. I'll add that at that time I did not covert to power brakes, did that a couple years later. Stopping was acceptable without the booster.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I haven't done the conversion but 3 days ago I ordered this power brake conversion kit from Leed Brakes, though I bought mine using their ebay store ($899):

 

https://leedbrakes.com/i-23438943-power-disc-brake-conversion-1971-73-mustang-4piston.html

 

I asked a few questions before I ordered it:

Calipers and pads are same as 65 - 67 Mustangs, so no problems if future replacements needed.

Booster used is a 70 to 73 Mustang booster and master cylinder. Leed say it will clear the clutch linkages on a manual car (mines a manual).

The brake pedal does need modification though, a half inch hole needs to be drilled in the pedal and the a new connecting pin installed 2 inches below the original. Pin is supplied with the kit and is held on with a nut. Leed say a standard power brake pedal will work perfectly if one can be obtained second hand and you can't be bothered with drilling the original.

Have just asked Leed if rotors are specially made for the kit or standard, awaiting their response.

 

There's an installation instruction pdf for download at the bottom of the linked webpage to read so you can see what you're getting into (plus a short video). Noting that the instructions say that holes need to be drilled into the firewall to fit the booster, pretty sure this is not required as the holes are already there.

 

2.jpg

 

I'm not sure when I'll be able to book it in for installation, probably sometime in the next month or so, and will report back then on my thoughts. Really looking forward to getting rid of the drums for good!

Brett

phonestang2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did my swap a few years ago. I got a parts car 72 Vert. I swapped everything over from that, all factory stuff that is supposed to be on there. I am really happy with it. I did not add the power booster yet. I have been planning on that for a couple years now just never got around to it. Mine also has disc brakes in the rear. So it stops well even with manual discs.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Following up from my previous reply, Leed Brakes responded to say the rotor in the conversion kit is standard 65-67 Mustang rotor with 70-73 wheel bearings. So bottom line is that all the parts in this kit apart from the spindle adapter plate are standard easy to buy anywhere parts. Handy to know for future brake maintenance and parts replacement.

Brett

phonestang2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Following up from my previous reply, Leed Brakes responded to say the rotor in the conversion kit is standard 65-67 Mustang rotor with 70-73 wheel bearings. So bottom line is that all the parts in this kit apart from the spindle adapter plate are standard easy to buy anywhere parts. Handy to know for future brake maintenance and parts replacement.

 

Good info.... that's a huge plus for that kit!

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I haven't done the conversion but 3 days ago I ordered this power brake conversion kit from Leed Brakes, though I bought mine using their ebay store ($899):

 

https://leedbrakes.com/i-23438943-power-disc-brake-conversion-1971-73-mustang-4piston.html

 

I asked a few questions before I ordered it:

Calipers and pads are same as 65 - 67 Mustangs, so no problems if future replacements needed.

Booster used is a 70 to 73 Mustang booster and master cylinder. Leed say it will clear the clutch linkages on a manual car (mines a manual).

The brake pedal does need modification though, a half inch hole needs to be drilled in the pedal and the a new connecting pin installed 2 inches below the original. Pin is supplied with the kit and is held on with a nut. Leed say a standard power brake pedal will work perfectly if one can be obtained second hand and you can't be bothered with drilling the original.

Have just asked Leed if rotors are specially made for the kit or standard, awaiting their response.

 

There's an installation instruction pdf for download at the bottom of the linked webpage to read so you can see what you're getting into (plus a short video). Noting that the instructions say that holes need to be drilled into the firewall to fit the booster, pretty sure this is not required as the holes are already there.

 

2.jpg

 

I'm not sure when I'll be able to book it in for installation, probably sometime in the next month or so, and will report back then on my thoughts. Really looking forward to getting rid of the drums for good!

 

That kit looks similar to the SSBC one using Kelsey-Hayes style 4 piston caliper, which is also listed for 65-67 Mustangs. I did not get the booster with mine, so that IS a plus and a very good price too. My discs are slotted and hubs are standard to fit drum brake spindles. I did one side in 1.5 hrs including new brake lines and the drivers side in 45 mins or so.

If you care to do a search, there have been several posts on doing this conversion. There's the easy way and the hard way. Yes those hole will need to be drilled for 3/8" studs, currently threaded  for 3/8 studs, Clear with a 13/32" drill. Also, as you have to change your brake pedal as did I, why not think about upgrading the clutch shaft bearing as well if not already done. Trust me it WILL be worth it. I opted for Mustang Steve's kit, but knowing what I know now and being a machinist, I could easily have got bearings from the local supplier and made my own carriers as I had to modify them anyway to allow for the draft angle on the bracket. Scott Drake also sell a roller bearing kit which may or may not be better. Either way from my own frustration doing the booster installation, pull the steering column and drivers seat. Not hard to do and make working on it WAY easier. Oh! that old cover plate, make sure you drill out the holes and reuse it as there are bosses welded on and are spacers. You will need to cut the bottom part out of course.

Hope that helps and enjoy your new brakes!!

Geoff.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm planning on doing a full 2003/2004 cobra conversion using mustang Steve brackets on my 73. Seems like a pretty easy swap other than finding a factory drum setup which his brackets are based off of.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm planning on doing a full 2003/2004 cobra conversion using mustang Steve brackets on my 73.  Seems like a pretty easy swap other than finding a factory drum setup which his brackets are based off of.

 

Hello,

 

I went with the Mustang Steve kit Front Caliper Mounting Kit using 1994-2004 Cobra 13″ Front Brakes

 

https://www.mustangsteve.com/product/cobra-ft/

 

 

Purchased powder coated New calipers - Cobra Front Calipers Red with Cobra

 

http://www.discbrakesrus.com/make/ford/cobra.htm

 

Please check out my thread

 

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-cobra-disc-brake-conversion?highlight=mustang+steve

 

 

 

 FRONT KIT WITH PADS AND BRACKETS AND THE WORD COBRA ON CALIPER RED RA FRONT KIT WITH PADS AND BRACKETS AND THE WORD COBRA ON CALIPER RED COBRA FRONT KIT WITH PADS AND BRACKETS AND THE WORD COBRA ON CALIPER RED

Thanks,

mustang7173 🇺🇸

"Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway" -- John Wayne

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm planning on doing a full 2003/2004 cobra conversion using mustang Steve brackets on my 73.  Seems like a pretty easy swap other than finding a factory drum setup which his brackets are based off of.

 

Mjordan,

 

NOS OEM Ford 1971 1972 Mustang Drum Brakes Spindle RH - $169.00

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Ford-1971-1972-Mustang-Drum-Brakes-Spindle-RH/123108629146?epid=4018318422&hash=item1ca9d89a9a:g:obUAAOSw-YZa2l92

 

 

Not bad deal.

Thanks,

mustang7173 🇺🇸

"Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway" -- John Wayne

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

That kit looks similar to the SSBC one using Kelsey-Hayes style 4 piston caliper, which is also listed for 65-67 Mustangs. I did not get the booster with mine, so that IS a plus and a very good price too. My discs are slotted and hubs are standard to fit drum brake spindles. I did one side in 1.5 hrs including new brake lines and the drivers side in 45 mins or so.

If you care to do a search, there have been several posts on doing this conversion. There's the easy way and the hard way. Yes those hole will need to be drilled for 3/8" studs, currently threaded  for 3/8 studs, Clear with a 13/32" drill. Also, as you have to change your brake pedal as did I, why not think about upgrading the clutch shaft bearing as well if not already done. Trust me it WILL be worth it. I opted for Mustang Steve's kit, but knowing what I know now and being a machinist, I could easily have got bearings from the local supplier and made my own carriers as I had to modify them anyway to allow for the draft angle on the bracket. Scott Drake also sell a roller bearing kit which may or may not be better. Either way from my own frustration doing the booster installation, pull the steering column and drivers seat. Not hard to do and make working on it WAY easier. Oh! that old cover plate, make sure you drill out the holes and reuse it as there are bosses welded on and are spacers. You will need to cut the bottom part out of course.

Hope that helps and enjoy your new brakes!!

Geoff.

 

Thanks heaps Geoff for the tips, especially the threaded holes size that needs opening up. I'm not going to do the job myself (more through laziness than lack of ability!) but I will pass these tips on to the brake shop so they know up front what they are getting in to. I've just looked at some online pics of the cover plate and see what you mean - I thought it was just a flat plate but yeah with the bosses and such built into it it looks like it definitely needs to stay in place. BTW I am also a machinist by trade too - 25 years on lathes, mills, NC lathes and NC machining centres (though I've spent the last 9 years in a cushy office as a purchasing officer) and just over 34 years at the same factory.

Brett

Brett

phonestang2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

That kit looks similar to the SSBC one using Kelsey-Hayes style 4 piston caliper, which is also listed for 65-67 Mustangs. I did not get the booster with mine, so that IS a plus and a very good price too. My discs are slotted and hubs are standard to fit drum brake spindles. I did one side in 1.5 hrs including new brake lines and the drivers side in 45 mins or so.

If you care to do a search, there have been several posts on doing this conversion. There's the easy way and the hard way. Yes those hole will need to be drilled for 3/8" studs, currently threaded  for 3/8 studs, Clear with a 13/32" drill. Also, as you have to change your brake pedal as did I, why not think about upgrading the clutch shaft bearing as well if not already done. Trust me it WILL be worth it. I opted for Mustang Steve's kit, but knowing what I know now and being a machinist, I could easily have got bearings from the local supplier and made my own carriers as I had to modify them anyway to allow for the draft angle on the bracket. Scott Drake also sell a roller bearing kit which may or may not be better. Either way from my own frustration doing the booster installation, pull the steering column and drivers seat. Not hard to do and make working on it WAY easier. Oh! that old cover plate, make sure you drill out the holes and reuse it as there are bosses welded on and are spacers. You will need to cut the bottom part out of course.

Hope that helps and enjoy your new brakes!!

Geoff.

 

Thanks heaps Geoff for the tips, especially the threaded holes size that needs opening up. I'm not going to do the job myself (more through laziness than lack of ability!) but I will pass these tips on to the brake shop so they know up front what they are getting in to. I've just looked at some online pics of the cover plate and see what you mean - I thought it was just a flat plate but yeah with the bosses and such built into it it looks like it definitely needs to stay in place. BTW I am also a machinist by trade too - 25 years on lathes, mills, NC lathes and NC machining centres (though I've spent the last 9 years in a cushy office as a purchasing officer) and just over 34 years at the same factory.

Brett

 

 You're welcome Brett. As I stress many times on the Forum, this is based on MY experience doing the swap. I also had the advantage of having the motor out which made life a whole lot better, but you don't have too!!! You didn't say if you were going to whole hog and replacing the plastic clutch bushings, but it will be  easier with that bracket out. My clutch is a Center Force 2 and was quite heavy before I changed the bushings to bearings. I also used oilite bushings at all the other linkage connections. You just need a couple of 5/8" ID ball bearings and knock up a couple of carriers for the OD and weld them on. Easy-Peasy for a machinist!! I wish I'd taken pictures when I did all this work, but you know how it goes.

Anyway good luck with it.

Yes we got off track a bit from the original post from nailpounder, but it's mostly relevant and hopefully helpful to him.

Geoff.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To give you an idea of what is needed, for the bearings for the clutch shaft, from Mustang Steve:

https://www.mustangsteve.com/ms-bbk-instructions.html

 

 Don, the kit I used was from Mustang Steve. It saved me a bit of work and for most people, the way to go. Not seen the Scott Drake kit though. I believe that uses roller bearings, not a ball-race.

 Just went back and took a closer look at the instructions posted. While the clutch part is the same, the brake pedal mount for the 71-73 is separate, not mounted on the clutch pedal shaft, so I guess that is for an earlier year. The 71-73 brake pedal is just mounted on a bolt with the plastic bushings to the rear of the clutch shaft.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You're welcome Brett. As I stress many times on the Forum, this is based on MY experience doing the swap. I also had the advantage of having the motor out which made life a whole lot better, but you don't have too!!! You didn't say if you were going to whole hog and replacing the plastic clutch bushings, but it will be  easier with that bracket out. My clutch is a Center Force 2 and was quite heavy before I changed the bushings to bearings. I also used oilite bushings at all the other linkage connections. You just need a couple of 5/8" ID ball bearings and knock up a couple of carriers for the OD and weld them on. Easy-Peasy for a machinist!! I wish I'd taken pictures when I did all this work, but you know how it goes.

Anyway good luck with it.

Yes we got off track a bit from the original post from nailpounder, but it's mostly relevant and hopefully helpful to him.

Geoff.

 

Hey Geoff, do you know if your kit altered the track width at all from the standard drum brake set up? I asked the rep at Leed Brakes and he didn't know.

 

Apologies too to Nailpounder for hijacking your conversation thread  :whistling: , I promise to post here my thoughts on the disc brake set up once it's installed and tested (though not sure when that will be, I've got a few things going on at the moment that are getting in the way)

 

Brett

Brett

phonestang2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Geoff, do you know if your kit altered the track width at all from the standard drum brake set up? I asked the rep at Leed Brakes and he didn't know.

 

Brett

 

 

 Now, that is something I never gave a thought to, but I doubt it with the kit used ( SSBC) as it reused the drum brake spindles. If there was a difference it would only be a few mm. As the wheels bolt against the hub face, or drum, I don't see any significant difference there, BUT if a different spindle, aftermarket or donor is used, then I guess there MIGHT be a small change in track width. Maybe some of the others have input. 

Hope that helps everyone.

Geoff.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...