Getting ready for the tear down... what to do before?

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crzyfun

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 6, 2018
Messages
50
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0
Location
South Hadley, MA
My Car
a '72 mach 1 convertible
Hello!

As a newbie here (and with Mustangs), I figured before I dive in on my restore/rebuild I should ask some high-level questions. The big one facing me first is: what should I do before I start taking it apart?

That is to say, it runs, so before I put it on stands and start the full tear down, what should I be sure to do before it's too late?

I'm already going to do a compression test, just for a "pre vs post" comparison and to get a sense of the engine's condition. Are there other things like that I should consider doing?

I welcome any advice on this. Thanks!

-Dan (Crazy Fun!)

BTW, it's a '72 vert (see attachment) that looks like it was previously modified/rebuilt to some degree (for example, some previous owner add the Mach 1 "stuff"... still not sure what all that is... but I know now that Ford didn't make a '72 vert Mach 1).

My goal (at this point... subject to change) is to strip it completely down, make sure the frame/body is all in good condition (doing whatever rust repair necessary... hopefully minimal), probably remove all the paint, and then rebuild/restore little by little, trying to keep whatever works and replacing/rebuilding what doesn't.

crazy-fun-mustang.jpg

 
I'd say you are headed in the right direction.

I'd check the engine first. How's it running would be my first check. Any major issues - lose of power, knocking, leaks, etc. Compression test is great. Could scope it if possible (get a good look inside).

I'd also check the training, rear end, transmission, suspension.

Do you plan a total dis-assembly?

If not, I find it a lot easier if to have the car mobile while doing any projects.

 
The car looks pretty solid . I'm with timsweet, I'd keep it as drive able as possible during the rebuild.  I was driving mine around with the interior gutted except for a drivers seat and steering wheel............ :whistling:. Of course it was off the road during engine replacement and body work/paint. But being able to drive it around while doing other projects and in between them was a real motivator.

I've seen many projects get totally torn down and then be sold off in buckets years later, when they never got put back together again.

That being said, the best thing I did for every project was to take a million pictures of whatever I was working on before starting that project and having them available when putting things back together. I also used color coded zip ties on wires and hoses so that it was easy to see what hooked back up to what.

Even with all of that,, I still have parts laying around that I don't know where they go 19 years later.

 
A million pictures during disassembly  ---  Oh Yeah !!  Can't take too many. they will save you alot of headaches. Baggies and then tag everything no matter how small will also be of help.  Personally, I find it easier to do a good restoration with a total tear down, but that is not always possible.  Best of luck to you. You have a great car to start with. Enjoy the trip. Ed

 
Just to insist a bit:

+1 make tons of pictures!

Not just the one that shows an assembly of something, make tons of close up, all the connectors, bolts, washers etc...

The order in which you put things apart is very obvious the moment you do it, but somehow months or years later, its less obvious.

Organise/save the picts on your computer.

+1 on labels/boxes.

+1 don't not throw anything away

Try keep the hardware of each specific parts together. Keep bolts/washers in small plastic bags/envelops and stick them to the main parts.

Some rusty bolts/nuts may look nothing/useless and you think you can buy/find new ones... Just keep all.

 
drsharp, why would wanna take her apart looking so nice? I would get rid of the Mach 1 decals and drive her until she really needs some work. But if you have seriously rusted out areas and or other issues then that should be addressed. +1 on pictures and bagging/labeling everything...especially the hardware. If you're going that route then do one area/section at a time. Although it's easier to do a full restoration and be done with it.

 
As everyone has stated pictures pictures pictures. Do not depend on your camera's storage device always make another copy to DVD or portable hard drive.

I am sure there is rust in the cowl never seen one without. If rust in the floors I would go with a full floor replacement easier than doing patches and quicker. Before you take much apart I always suggest you take the car to a frame shop and have them check it and pull in spec before you start.

A fantastic investment is a rotisserie. You should not do floor replacement on rotisserie better to have on a chassis stand or something to keep the chassis level. I have a rust free California vert and when I lift it correctly on a two post lift the body bends enough that the doors do not want to open or close. This car is rust free and bends. It is physics equal and opposite reaction, they bend.

On the drive train yes verify condition now. You can do tear down later and have the block, crank and head magna fluxed to check for cracks. I would not do the build until you have your body almost ready. An engine sitting for a long time and not getting rotated will sometimes cause issues.

It is amazing how much space all the parts will take up.

Be sure and look for your build sheet under the carpet, stuffed into a seat frame and sometimes even under the dash. There can be several. Here is a picture of a perfect build sheet I was never so lucky.

When buying parts 71 & 72 have lots of differences than 73 so be careful and know what you are buying. NOS does not mean perfect either. I would suggest not to buy any NOS rubber parts as they will not be any good anyway. Metal is ok but will probably have dents or distortion for years of storage. Don't get too hung up on making things you do not see perfect. No reason to they were not perfect when new.

I find that doing the worst jobs first makes the build go much better by it getting easier all the time. Knock out the difficult tasks and easy just falls in place. Another reason to leave the engine and drive to last they are easy just bolts and pieces.

I took a 72 parts vert apart last year and to give you an idea of time it too about 30 hours. I did bag and tag everything and did not use power tools except for some stuck bolts. I was 69 when I did it. I use to be able to do in two days, for a 65 vert. lol.

David

 
Be sure you have about 2x the storage space that a car displaces to store parts, bags, etc.

Take your checkbook out to a fresh pasture and fatten it up before you take it to the slaughter-house. You want it 3x what you forecast the costs to be.

 
Come up with a plan. The plan should include the order in which you want to do things (based on skills, parts availability, cash flow, what the car needs now, what can be overlapped with other work, where professional services will be required, where you need to learn something first...). It will make amusing reading when you are finished.

Beyond that, in no particular order...

A lot of what goes into the plan depends on what you want to end up with in terms of a completed project. If you are looking to show the car at concours events, go slow with disassembly and any paint or rust stripping. There are lots of paint daubs, date codes, part numbers, labels, tags, markings, colors and finishes that you will want to document as the car comes apart. I would recommend joining the Mustang Club of America for at least a year to gain access to their judging and finishing guides. They are invaluable for a detailed restoration. If you aren't worried about originality, you don't have to worry about all of that, but it is nice to at least record what you find for others.

Photos - as others have stated, you can't have too many. Spend some time looking at others photos as well. These cars weren't built exactly the same when they were new, they certainly aren't the same after 40 plus years of maintenance and modifications. I like to put a color strip with known colors in the photo for areas where getting the colors right is important.

Heavy duty ziplock bags - bag and tag everything as it comes off the car. You never know when you will get around to putting the car back together (trust me - I'm 9 years into a 2 year process...). Memories fade, and god forbid you have to move before you are done.

Bins - open top, closed top, clear, opaque - whatever. Bins are awesome for collecting and storing parts as subsystems. Things don't get lost nearly as easily or as quickly if you put the little parts in ziplocks and store them with the bigger parts in bins. Bins are tidy and they make it easier and safer to move parts around your shop if you have limited space. Make sure they are solvent safe and strong enough for the task. Parts can be heavy, awkward, dirty and rusty. Look for bins you can stack to save floorspace. There are lots at McMaster Carr and Grainger.

Label maker - for your bins and bigger parts that don't fit in bins.

Tag all of the connectors of any wiring harnesses you remove from the car. Use something that will not get knocked off, become illegible if wet, and stands up to solvents. Photograph any cable ties/harness anchors and locations. Measurements from a fixed part of the body helps as well so you can sort out holes for cable anchors vs. holes for fasteners or drains.

Get to know (and trust!) a Mustang parts supplier. There are lots out there, and many will be happy to give you a bit of a discount if you work through them for parts. Be loyal! Shopping around for price is time consuming and you run the risk of losing a valuable source of knowledgeable advice. Don at OMS is highly recommended.

read Read READ everything you can. There is a lot of (mis)information out there, so checking multiple sources and sorting through differences is important if you are looking for a competitive show car. The most basic reading the the shop manuals and parts manuals for your car. Parts manuals are more valuable to me as they show exploded diagrams of parts so you have a much better idea of how things fit together - and in which order. There is little more frustrating than doing a fantastic, meticulous job of putting something back together only to have to take it all part again because some other assembly had to be done first.

Safety equipment - gloves, kneepads, blankets, non-slip flooring, respirators, foam pads, grounded power cords, fluid appropriate containers, safety glasses.

Space - there is never enough, but if you have some hard limits, go read the part about bins. You will need AT LEAST enough space to work on the car with both doors open. The more free space you have around the car, the less likely you are do damage the car moving things around. You will also need space to clean parts. I live in Minnesota, so the driveway only works for part of the year.

Tools - Buy the best you can afford. You are better off spending more for the tools you will actually use vs. getting the biggest, shiniest sets of things that have sockets or wrenches in sizes you will never ever use. Plus you have to store all of those tools you don't use. Hold the tools before you buy them. Squeeze them as hard as you can in your hand. Feel for sharp edges, raw finishes, etc. Make sure you can read the markings on the tools as well. You are going to use them a lot, may as well buy something that won't cause aggravation. As far as power tools go, I prefer electric tools to air tools for most mechanical stuff. Batteries are pretty stout these days, and 20V systems will handle most tasks with ease. You don't have to drag a hose or cord around, which makes everything easier and safer. Less to trip over, and you won't be knocking things over on the other side of the shop when you pull on the hose or cord. Also - hoses and cords are either waaay too long or not quite long enough. Gear wrenches, flare nut wrenches, flex ratchets, flex combination wrenches, crows feet wrenches are all very handy to have on hand. Also, don't be afraid to make the tool you need.

Lights - flat LED lights are indispensable for working on cars. They fit most places, won't roll away, provide plenty of light, won't burn the skin off your arm if you touch them, won't burn paint or melt stuff, are rechargeable, and won't explode in a ball of flame if gasoline gets dripped on them.

Jacks, jack stands - low profile floor jacks with rubber pads are handy for heavy lifting. Smaller, lower jacks that fit spaces your floor jack can't reach are handy too, particularly if you are putting the car on jack stands. If you lift the rear and put it on stands, you probably can't get your big floor jack under the front. Heavy jack stands with rubber pads or wood blocks are plenty to keep the car in the air and are safe for finishes.

Be kind to the environment - please don't dump solvents, oils, paint, coolant, parts, etc. into places they shouldn't be. Check with your local recycling or hazardous waste facilities to understand the laws in your area and how to dispose of problematic stuff. I batch stuff up and take them in every few months for proper disposal.

Keep some funds available for that must-have, rare as heck part that comes up once in a blue moon and be ready to pull the trigger when that part crosses your path. You don't know when another one will come along.

A good sense of humor - stuff will go wrong. It always does. You will find things that need attention you thought were ok, which adds cost and delay. It's a hobby - the process is most of the fun. It's also ok to walk away from the project for awhile.

Hope this helps...

 
#1 - buy a set of the Ford shop manuals, available from any Mustang supplier.

#2 - buy a full set of assembly manuals as well

#3 - drive the car for the summer before you tear it apart.

 
I'd say you are headed in the right direction.

I'd check the engine first.  How's it running would be my first check.  Any major issues - lose of power, knocking, leaks, etc.   Compression test is great.  Could scope it if possible (get a good look inside).  

I'd also check the training, rear end, transmission, suspension.

Do you plan a total dis-assembly?

If not, I find it a lot easier if to have the car mobile while doing any projects.
Hi Tim!

I am planning a total disassembly. The "goal" is not the end point of a restored mustang, but the process itself... working with my son & daughter on all aspects of it, building memories (good, bad & ugly) and hopefully ending up with a sweet ride at the end. But it's really about doing the whole thing, kit-n-kaboodle.

That being said, I still want to be careful to disassemble it carefully... to not rush in and to make sure I've got a full plan before I even start.

I don't need it to be mobile. It's drivable right now, and I've taken it for some fun, local drives already, but since the goal is the strip-down/rebuild, I wanna just get started.

At this point I do want to do a body restoration (there is some rust on the back end... normal spots it sounds like) so I want to head in that direction.

I don't know enough about scoping an engine so I don't know whether that's worth it or not. I want the experience of an engine rebuild, so maybe scoping doesn't matter... I just don't know enough about it yet.

To some degree I feel way over my head on this, but I'm not gonna learn by wishing... so I'm diving in... both feet!

Crazy! Fun!

-Dan

 
drsharp, why would wanna take her apart looking so nice? I would get rid of the Mach 1 decals and drive her until she really needs some work. But if you have seriously rusted out areas and or other issues then that should be addressed. +1 on pictures and bagging/labeling everything...especially the hardware. If you're going that route then do one area/section at a time. Although it's easier to do a full restoration and be done with it.
Because the reason for buying it was for the process. I wanna learn about rebuilding a classic car, and have my kids and wife join in the "adventure" along the way. So the rebuild is the goal... i.e. the _actual process_. The fact that it'll (hopefully) end up as a sweet restoration at the end is bonus.

Also, as for the Mach 1... I know Ford didn't make a '72 Mach 1 vert (that is to say, I know now... I didn't at the time I bought it), but I think a previous owner added all the Mach 1 "stuff" after the fact. It's definitely been worked on: Edelbrock carb, different rear end, probably lots more that I just don't know about yet.

Actually while I'm thinking of it: what exactly is involved with a Mach 1 versus not having the Mach 1? I.e. I'm pretty sure a previous owner didn't just add the Mach 1 decals, but how would I know? I.e. what's the list of features/changes/etc. that comprise the Mach 1 package?

-Dan

 
As everyone has stated pictures pictures pictures. Do not depend on your camera's storage device always make another copy to DVD or portable hard drive.

I am sure there is rust in the cowl never seen one without. If rust in the floors I would go with a full floor replacement easier than doing patches and quicker. Before you take much apart I always suggest you take the car to a frame shop and have them check it and pull in spec before you start.

A fantastic investment is a rotisserie. You should not do floor replacement on rotisserie better to have on a chassis stand or something to keep the chassis level. I have a rust free California vert and when I lift it correctly on a two post lift the body bends enough that the doors do not want to open or close. This car is rust free and bends. It is physics equal and opposite reaction, they bend.

On the drive train yes verify condition now. You can do tear down later and have the block, crank and head magna fluxed to check for cracks. I would not do the build until you have your body almost ready. An engine sitting for a long time and not getting rotated will sometimes cause issues.

It is amazing how much space all the parts will take up.

Be sure and look for your build sheet under the carpet, stuffed into a seat frame and sometimes even under the dash. There can be several. Here is a picture of a perfect build sheet I was never so lucky.

When buying parts 71 & 72 have lots of differences than 73 so be careful and know what you are buying. NOS does not mean perfect either. I would suggest not to buy any NOS rubber parts as they will not be any good anyway. Metal is ok but will probably have dents or distortion for years of storage. Don't get too hung up on making things you do not see perfect. No reason to they were not perfect when new.

I find that doing the worst jobs first makes the build go much better by it getting easier all the time. Knock out the difficult tasks and easy just falls in place. Another reason to leave the engine and drive to last they are easy just bolts and pieces.

I took a 72 parts vert apart last year and to give you an idea of time it too about 30 hours. I did bag and tag everything and did not use power tools except for some stuck bolts. I was 69 when I did it. I use to be able to do in two days, for a 65 vert. lol.

David
David,

Thanks for the encouragement and good advice! I definitely like the idea of bags, tags, containers and such to organize everything. Also, I'm definitely taking lots of pics and vids... particularly on parts/connections as I disassemble them.

I didn't think about the rotisserie issue with chassis bend. I did see a picture where someone had one of these on four stands and they added an extra pneumatic jack under the very front... for the same reason. I'll have to think about doing that.

I don't think there's a lot of rust, but I won't fully know until I strip it further. If it's bad then yes, I'll just replace versus patch.

I don't know about having a frame shop check it. What's involved with that? Is the idea that if there's anomalies to the frame they'll affect putting things together nice and neat? Or is there more to it than that?

Wow. 30 hours... I'm predicting at least 10x that, but I'm brand new to this. In the end, if it's fun along the way, then the time will be well spent. ::thumb::

As I've said: Crazy! Fun!

Thanks,

-Dan

 
#1 - buy a set of the Ford shop manuals, available from any Mustang supplier.

#2 - buy a full set of assembly manuals as well

#3 - drive the car for the summer before you tear it apart.
#1 - Check (got 'em digitally on a CD)

#2 - Check

#2.5 - also found the original Chilton's in the trunk (after drilling out the lock). hehe

#3 - Check... although I'm ready to tear it apart now. Well, maybe another drive or two before I "really" begin. :D

Crazy! Fun!

-Dan

 
Come up with a plan.  The plan should include the order in which you want to do things (based on skills, parts availability, cash flow, what the car needs now, what can be overlapped with other work, where professional services will be required, where you need to learn something first...).  It will make amusing reading when you are finished.

Beyond that, in no particular order...

A lot of what goes into the plan depends on what you want to end up with in terms of a completed project.  If you are looking to show the car at concours events, go slow with disassembly and any paint or rust stripping.  There are lots of paint daubs, date codes, part numbers, labels, tags, markings, colors and finishes that you will want to document as the car comes apart.  I would recommend joining the Mustang Club of America for at least a year to gain access to their judging and finishing guides.  They are invaluable for a detailed restoration.  If you aren't worried about originality, you don't have to worry about all of that, but it is nice to at least record what you find for others.  

Photos - as others have stated, you can't have too many.  Spend some time looking at others photos as well.  These cars weren't built exactly the same when they were new, they certainly aren't the same after 40 plus years of maintenance and modifications.  I like to put a color strip with known colors in the photo for areas where getting the colors right is important.

Heavy duty ziplock bags - bag and tag everything as it comes off the car.  You never know when you will get around to putting the car back together (trust me - I'm 9 years into a 2 year process...).  Memories fade, and god forbid you have to move before you are done.

Bins - open top, closed top, clear, opaque - whatever.  Bins are awesome for collecting and storing parts as subsystems.  Things don't get lost nearly as easily or as quickly if you put the little parts in ziplocks and store them with the bigger parts in bins.  Bins are tidy and they make it easier and safer to move parts around your shop if you have limited space.  Make sure they are solvent safe and strong enough for the task.  Parts can be heavy, awkward, dirty and rusty.  Look for bins you can stack to save floorspace.  There are lots at McMaster Carr and Grainger.  

Label maker - for your bins and bigger parts that don't fit in bins.  

Tag all of the connectors of any wiring harnesses you remove from the car.  Use something that will not get knocked off, become illegible if wet, and stands up to solvents.  Photograph any cable ties/harness anchors and locations.  Measurements from a fixed part of the body helps as well so you can sort out holes for cable anchors vs. holes for fasteners or drains.

Get to know (and trust!) a Mustang parts supplier.  There are lots out there, and many will be happy to give you a bit of a discount if you work through them for parts.  Be loyal!  Shopping around for price is time consuming and you run the risk of losing a valuable source of knowledgeable advice.  Don at OMS is highly recommended.

read Read READ everything you can.  There is a lot of (mis)information out there, so checking multiple sources and sorting through differences is important if you are looking for a competitive show car.  The most basic reading the the shop manuals and parts manuals for your car.  Parts manuals are more valuable to me as they show exploded diagrams of parts so you have a much better idea of how things fit together - and in which order.  There is little more frustrating than doing a fantastic, meticulous job of putting something back together only to have to take it all part again because some other assembly had to be done first.  

Safety equipment - gloves, kneepads, blankets, non-slip flooring, respirators,  foam pads, grounded power cords, fluid appropriate containers, safety glasses.  

Space - there is never enough, but if you have some hard limits, go read the part about bins.  You will need AT LEAST enough space to work on the car with both doors open.  The more free space you have around the car, the less likely you are do damage the car moving things around.  You will also need space to clean parts.  I live in Minnesota, so the driveway only works for part of the year.  

Tools - Buy the best you can afford.  You are better off spending more for the tools you will actually use vs. getting the biggest, shiniest sets of things that have sockets or wrenches in sizes you will never ever use.  Plus you have to store all of those tools you don't use.  Hold the tools before you buy them.  Squeeze them as hard as you can in your hand.  Feel for sharp edges, raw finishes, etc.  Make sure you can read the markings on the tools as well.  You are going to use them a lot, may as well buy something that won't cause aggravation.  As far as power tools go, I prefer electric tools to air tools for most mechanical stuff.  Batteries are pretty stout these days, and 20V systems will handle most tasks with ease.  You don't have to drag a hose or cord around, which makes everything easier and safer.  Less to trip over, and you won't be knocking things over on the other side of the shop when you pull on the hose or cord.  Also - hoses and cords are either waaay too long or not quite long enough.  Gear wrenches, flare nut wrenches, flex ratchets, flex combination wrenches, crows feet wrenches are all very handy to have on hand.  Also, don't be afraid to make the tool you need.  

Lights - flat LED lights are indispensable for working on cars.   They fit most places, won't roll away, provide plenty of light, won't burn the skin off your arm if you touch them, won't burn paint or melt stuff, are rechargeable, and won't explode in a ball of flame if gasoline gets dripped on them.

Jacks, jack stands - low profile floor jacks with rubber pads are handy for heavy lifting.  Smaller, lower jacks that fit spaces your floor jack can't reach are handy too, particularly if you are putting the car on jack stands.  If you lift the rear and put it on stands, you probably can't get your big floor jack under the front.  Heavy jack stands with rubber pads or wood blocks are plenty to keep the car in the air and are safe for finishes.

Be kind to the environment - please don't dump solvents, oils, paint, coolant, parts, etc. into places they shouldn't be.  Check with your local recycling or hazardous waste facilities to understand the laws in your area and how to dispose of problematic stuff.  I batch stuff up and take them in every few months for proper disposal.

Keep some funds available for that must-have, rare as heck part that comes up once in a blue moon and be ready to pull the trigger when that part crosses your path.  You don't know when another one will come along.

A good sense of humor - stuff will go wrong.  It always does.  You will find things that need attention you thought were ok, which adds cost and delay.  It's a hobby - the process is most of the fun.  It's also ok to walk away from the project for awhile.

Hope this helps...
Mike,

You have no idea how much that helps. Thank you!!!

I'm in the Read Read Read phase right now. Bought a few good books that I'm devouring, along with forums like this one.

I really like the idea of clear bins... that'll definitely help.

Also, I hadn't thought about the waste disposal... I'll have to research that locally. There'll definitely be fluids to dispose of as I tear it down. Hehe.

The nice thing is I have a decent amount of space in the garage... I can fit the mustang and my tundra next to it right now, but if need be I can park the Tundra outside the garage, which gives me lots of room to maneuver.

Again, thanks for the great advice and encouragement... and to have a good sense of humor about it... most definitely so!

Crazy! Fun!

-Dan

 
Something I think you need to do before thinking about taking it apart: get it on a lift and check out the underside.  Not sure where the car originally hails from, but if it's been a 'rust belt' or northeastern car all its life, you might be in for a surprise underneath.  One of the main things to look out for on a 'vert is the floor pan reinforcement braces, rockers, and structural plate.  The convertibles have the extra factory bracing since the car is a unibody design - without the roof, the added structural reinforcement was necessary to maintain the shape of the car (so it doesn't sag in the middle).  Heavy use of salt in the winters has those additional braces rusting out.  That will be a lot of replace/repair effort if they're damaged.  

If it's bad, it might be a huge issue, as those things are not reproduced (yet - I don't believe so, anyway).  One thing that can help would be to install some aftermarket subframe connectors in the process as well.  I replaced my own floor pans after chopping off the front clip and also threw on a set of subframe connectors - mostly for extra peace of mind and structural rigidity.  I'm thinking they could help with a 'vert as well.

Following that, I agree with the others: drive that sucker and enjoy it for awhile before tearing it down.  If it's solid and running, enjoy it!  Mine was a basket case when I first got it, and it was 4 agonizing years of putting it back together before I could even drive it around the block.  Then it was another couple years finishing it up to the point it would pass safety inspection and getting the title & licensing squared away.  Somewhere along the line it almost lost all value as an actual 'car' to me, so even these days, I don't consider it to be much more than a toy.  Not to mention I worked too hard for it to spend any time in the rigors of daily driving and parking lot mishaps.

But you have the chance to actually drive yours and enjoy it.  I would've killed for that back then.

Hope this helps!

 
Well, since your going for a total tear down 

the best set and assortment of tools that you can afford..........

a big bottle of GoJo...........everything is covered in grease and dirt...........i try to use nitrile gloves when i can, but they don't work for every project .........

a ton of rags.......old clothes & towels cut up work well.....

AND

a big box of band-aids.........scraped knuckles are part of the experience.............

 
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