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Black paint on Dynacorn Panels


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Hi all

I have received my new 73 framerail apron shocktower assemblies and crossmembers. Taking the car to the panel shop for fitting this week. 

I emailed Dynacorn to ask what the black paint on the panels is and if it is a primer that can be painted over with black gloss with a scuff or sand but they never replied. 

Anyone with any idea if their black coating is paintable or is just a metal preserver that has to come off before painting. Obviously around the welds to the firewall and where the new crossmembers are attached will need priming. 

cheers

Steve

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On their website go to the Joe Parts tab and search for answers. Here's one example of what came up when I typed in"paint"

http://www.dynacorn.com/JoeParts/ViewAnswer.aspx?qid=4692

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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On new exterior panels it is a good idea to remove the primer,re prep the steel, and prime with epoxy or etch primer. Because there is often rust under the primer on replacement parts. Taking that chance on other parts is probably more acceptable. As to your question yes you can prime and/or paint over those parts. But if you can wipe the primer off with lacquer thinner you may want something with more corrosion resistance.

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It is called ecoat. Strip it off. Prep metal properly. Then prime and paint per what paint you are using. Ecoat is not a primer. Just a coating put on to prevent the panel from rusting while on the shelf.

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- Jason

 

 

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E coat is process not an actual product. In manufacturing it has many advantages over painting. I wouldn't trust it as the foundation of a body/ paint job that I would do. Most collision shops finish over it . Hopefully most restoration shops don't. Epoxy primer or sealer or at least urethane primer or sealer would be good to use if you do finish over it.

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E-Coat done properly is the best form of primer there is. The problem is the repo shops do not do it correctly. The factory process like for your new Ford is I think a 15 stage, wash, prep and coat. The entire welded body goes into a tank. The tank is mostly water with the paint in suspension in the water.

If you have a riding lawn mower any parts that are black on it was E-Coat applied.

Like all have said there is usually rust lurking under the e-coat of repo parts. You want to remove on all exterior surfaces for sure. Surfaces like inside the doors, quarters and such I would not worry but add some other sealer to them. Hey these cars have lasted over 45 years and never had the benefit of e-coat at all only sprayed on primer in the day.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Thanks everyone for your comments. I might try a test patch with some thinners to see how easy it comes off. I presume the dynacorn panels are made in Taiwan but as they are the inner guards I will check. It is going to cost me in the vicinity of 3-5k NZD to the panel shop to unstitch my current frame rail/aprons and spot weld the new one to the firewall but at 85 an hr to get them to strip and paint them could add quite a bit to the bill. Not counting the purchase price in USD ($620 each side plus the cross members $300) Ouch

3630z_1_474.jpg

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On their website go to the Joe Parts tab and search for answers. Here's one example of what came up when I typed in"paint"

http://www.dynacorn.com/JoeParts/ViewAnswer.aspx?qid=4692

 

Hi Don. 

I had a scroll through all their questions and I found two conflicting answers. The one you highlighted said a light scuff and paint and the other answer said best remove it and prime! No wonder its confusing for a newbie! LOL

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Do not trust what is under the e-coat or primer on ANY repro panel

 

Especially on reproduction door interiors that are 'E-coated'!   Nothing like seeing rust colored streaks coming out of the drain openings a couple years after installing and painting them....

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When I did my floors I was recommended to scuff the paint with Scotch Brite. Then I washed with soap, cleaned with After Blast solvent and primed over it. I did not remove the whole e-coat so i hope I did it right. There was no visible rust after scuffing. I have used this method in other repairs I have done. I will report back in 10 or hopefully 20+ years in regards to how long the repairs lasts.

For primer I used epoxy for the floors and Rust Bullet elsewhere.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

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We never had a problem in my shop with scuffing and priming over the "e-coating" sprayed on aftermarket sheet metal. Inspect the panel first for any signs of surface rust, or lifting before you prep it. Any good quality automotive type primer will work, along with a filler primer if needed. Paint as you prefer with a urethane or two part epoxy top coat.

The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person doing it. 

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