Misc. Exterior and Interior Odds/Ends

Hey guys,

Now that my stubborn bastard of a car seems to be running well, I am finishing up the left over picky cosmetic problems that my car has. I am trying to restore most of the stock look both in the engine bay and interior to make it look cleaner. This is a 1971 Mach 1 M code. I'll attach the Marti report for reference. Sorry for the megathread of questions but I figured it beats posting multiple threads over time. I tried searching for the parts but there are alot of aftermarkets on the usual sites. After this I can start going to shows

Here is quite the list of questions:

-What voltage regulator came with a 71 M code? Mine is painted black by the previous owner.

-What does an original power steering pump look like? Mine is also painted black and it is flaking

-Where can I find the sport lamp bulbs? Every site has 1157 which is wrong

-My center dash looks like this one pictured below. Am I missing vents or something in the top compartment? (non-A/C car)

-Which radio is correct for my car according to the Mart report? Ebay has so many different AM Radios

-And last, I have the 4 Speed Toploader. The shifter boot is ripped. Where can I find a new one? Also all that separates the shifter from the carpet is the boot, am I missing a console or something?

I think you can click the images for a bigger size.

Thanks a ton in advance

https://preview.ibb.co/edGnSe/1_F05_M121143_dlxrpt.jpg[/img]

https://image.ibb.co/eVydYK/176998_Interior_Web.jpg[/img]

I'll try and take a few of the easy ones.

As for your center dash, yours is correct. That top section you are questioning holds two deflector vents for the A/C on cars so equipped. It is just a little storage nook on non-AC cars like yours.

As for your shifter boot - might try Don at Ohio Mustang Supply. Don't think they are being repro'd. But he'll know.

Good luck.

Ray

Hello icejawa, glad you grouped your questions like you did, much easier to try to get you the answers you need.

#1[What voltage regulator came with a 71 M code? Mine is painted black by the previous owner.]

71's had a Autolite regulator with a blue cover and yellow lettering. There were approx 11 different engineering numbers used, but C8AF and C8TF are the two most common you will see on 71's. If your car is going to be driven and just not a show car I would suggest that you obtain a new style electronic regular such as a Motorcraft GR-540B or Ford FOPZ-10316-A. The repo regulators on the market now are JUNK and will put you down. If you want the original look put the old school cover on the new electronic regulator.

#2 [What does an original power steering pump look like? Mine is also painted black and it is flaking]

I would call the factory color as a shade of teal. I don't know if Don @ OMS carries it or not, but I have head other's reference NPD as a source for this paint

#3 [-Where can I find the sport lamp bulbs? Every site has 1157 which is wrong]

The correct original bulb is Industry# 94 or Ford part# DOSZ-13466-A. It is a double contact single filament bulb. The problem is that the 94 bulb was only used on the 71-72 Mustang and 70-71 T-Bird. So the part stores will try to push the 1157 bulb since they either don't want to stock a slow selling bulb or don't have a clue as to what bulb is really needed.

#4 [My center dash looks like this one pictured below. Am I missing vents or something in the top compartment? (non-A/C car)] Boss1Ray has you covered on this.

#5 [Which radio is correct for my car according to the Mart report? Ebay has so many different AM Radios]

Most of the 71AM radios I've seen had Philco on the lens and the housing is marked D1ZA-18806-

#6  [And last, I have the 4 Speed Toploader. The shifter boot is ripped. Where can I find a new one? Also all that separates the shifter from the carpet is the boot, am I missing a console or something?]

Like Ray posted the 71 4sp shifter boot (D1ZZ-7277-B) to my knowledge, is not being reproduced. If you do happen to find one the prices are straight out of the Twilight Zone! The only thing you can do at this time is to use the 4sp boot used on the 70 Mustang and 70-71 Torino (DOZZ-7277-B). Not an exact fit can can be made to work.

All 71-73 Mustangs had a mini console standard. The long console was an option and would have been listed under the "Your Vehicle Was Equipped With The Following Features" if it had been ordered with one.

Good luck with your parts search.

Secluff pretty much nailed it. I'll just add some links.

#3 - https://www.npdlink.com/product/bulb-clear-dual-contact/141138?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3DU-L94%26top_parent%3D1%26year%3D

#5 - https://www.npdlink.com/product/boot-transmission-gear-shift-lever-rectangular-hole-for/105728?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dshifter%252Bboot%26top_parent%3D1%26year%3D

I've been running the '70 boot since it first became available in the 90's. Works fine. Not 100% correct, but I really don't care.

There's also a lower boot. If you plan on driving your car alot, wouldn't be a bad idea to pick one up.

https://www.npdlink.com/product/boot-lower-shifter-when-out-goto-7138-4b-concours/105650?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dshifter%252Bboot%26top_parent%3D1%26year%3D

... and a filler plate that goes around the shifter boot, it covers the screws and helps keep things from falling down past the boot. About 3/4 down on the page linked below is a template to make one.

http://429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/components_2.htm

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-1973-Ford-Mustang-Boot-Filler-Panel-/223100384232?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1#viTabs_0

Also, the 429 Megasite is a great resource for anything 71 related.

http://429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/

I have a working Ford Philco Am Radio, like the one Secluff pictured. PM me if you are interested in buying it.

Wow thank you all for the help, and I will send you a message about that radio rackerm

The only one answered I might have a question on is the P.S. pump. I thought Ford quit using the weird blue like almost candy blue over black in 1970. I do have a  can of it from a special mix. Probably dried up, lol. My 72 and 73 cars all have a satin black on the PS pump and bracket. I have like three or 4 spares and they are all satin black also and one was off a 71 M code. You will also need a spacer to go behind the PS bracket since you do not have Air cond. to put the pulley in the correct position.

Since you have the PS off you should go to your local parts store and get a seal kit and go ahead and install. You will need to borrow their puller for the pulley and take a picture of where the pulley is located there is not a stop on the shaft. There is also noting to clock the tank part of the housing in place so not where it is also.

If you do the seal kit take lots of pictures there are lots of strange little pieces inside that pump. Clean Clean Clean is the word to keep it working quite.

On the cubby hole in top center of dash. It was coated with the fuzzy stuff like the inside of the long consoles were. No convenience group on your car so no map light up there either.

D

David, I've learned to never say "Never" when dealing with a mass produced vehicle. Considering the sheer volume of vendors Ford dealt with, pumps with black housings were entirely possible. I know some of the over the counter new p/s service pumps we sold were a mix between teal and black.

Both of my 71 "M" Mach1's ( 9/21/70 and 7/28/71) and all three 72 Gran Torino's (2 Q and one 429) had the teal pump. Anything I bought new after that had the  Ford pump with the black plastic housing.

icejawa, if you do decide to paint your pump teal, NPD stocks the paint.    https://www.npdlink.com/product/power-steering-pump-paint-enamel-exact-match-dark/143996?backurl=sea

The odd thing is when I look at the "concourse" pictures of Boss 351s (not sure if equipped with same accessories), they have the satin black P/S pumps. Anyways I got the bulbs and shifter boot as well as fresh oil coming in the mail. I also found the original voltage regulator in my box of parts, and popped the cover off and put it on the aftermarket one the previous owner had in there. I'm having trouble finding the small console anywhere online, oh well. They all just have the section of the full console that is kind of a trapezoid shape.

Gonna clean out all dirt from the car and polish the trim/rear bumper, and rebuild the shifter and linkage while I wait on those parts. Easy! This Mach is Almost Great Again.

Used small consoles

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/p/13793-Consolette-Assembly-Grade-B-Used-1971-1973-Mercury-Cougar-/-1971-1973-Ford-Mustang.html?attribs=82

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/d1zb-65045a06-a.html?attribs=82

Holy crap thanks Don, I'll order that right now

I got the new parts and fresh oil all in there, just waiting on a guy about a radio. Also one more random question, if the car moves forward slowly when I let the clutch go, does that mean I set the idle too high? I don't mind but I don't wanna tear up my clutch over time. Thanks again guys for helping me restore this beauty

When in gear and with the clutch released with the clutch pedal pushed all the way down the car shouldn't move while the car is on level ground with the engine running. If it does the clutch linkage needs adjusting. How much free play do you have in the clutch pedal after the clutch is engaged?

The other possibility is that the pilot bearing is too tight on the input shaft.

I checked it all the idle was just too high on the new carb I just put on, I attached a tach to the lead off the distributor and it was at 1800 RPM. Holley says these carbs are "ready to run out of the box" I guess I took that too seriously. Lowering the idle screw fixed it

Oh and one LAST question I swear: What would the date code be on my engine block in accordance with the Marti report information? Would it be Oct 7, 1970/date code 0K7 and D0AE-L? I looked near the starter and pretty much this isn't the original engine, but I found a few blocks with various dates that may be "correct"...

When I had my P/S Pump rebuilt by a guy, can't remember the business name, he'd ask me if I wanted it painted black or teal. I opted for the latter. Um, looks kinda black but it's teal LOL!

Maybe mine is "teal" also haha. I may just repaint it and redo the seals and everything

Random but in 1970-1971 engine blocks did they stamp the partial vin on them anywhere?

icejawa,

No such thing as too many questions. That's how we learn about these beasts.

Ford stamped the left rear of the block just below where the head mates to the block with a partial Vin consisting of the model year,assembly plant and the six digits of the consecutive serial number or vin.   Some were stamped so lightly they are hard to read on a engine out of the car. If in the car you can still read it but will have to be part contortionist and hold your tongue just right. So if your engine is the original production installed unit and going by your Marti report, it should read "1F121143".

icejawa,

No such thing as too many questions. That's how we learn about these beasts.

Ford stamped the left rear of the block just below where the head mates to the block with a partial Vin consisting of the model year,assembly plant and the six digits of the consecutive serial number or vin.   Some were stamped so lightly they are hard to read on a engine out of the car. If in the car you can still read it but will have to be part contortionist and hold your tongue just right. So if your engine is the original production installed unit and going by your Marti report, it should read "1F121143".

Click to expand...

Oh ok that helps me understand it alot more thanks

should my engine date code be 9/22/70? Since thats when my car was "serialized" according to the marti report then?