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351 Windsor performance Help wanted please


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The weakest link in any Windsor engine is going to be the heads.   High Quality heads such as AFR, Edelbrock, Trick flow, combined with the other suggestions above will maximize the fun factor.

 

Read previous info in this thread. He has a Cleveland not a Windsor.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Is there a sticker inside on the drivers door? this will show you the axel, trans, and engine code along with original color and interior trim and color. If there post a pic and we can decode it for you.

 

Never rely on the sticker to be accurate unless you are the original owner of the car.

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Will jack car up weekend and find out gear ratio

 

65mph not very often / just want to pull away fast

 

mountain driving never none around where i live

 

ok, i just didn't understand your statement below clearly.

 

"what is best way to make quicker for road not for drag racing , will 4 barrel carb do much , any info would be great ."

 

As was previously mentioned, numerically higher gears will increase the acceleration rate at all speeds, therefore, this is the single most important change. Installing a 4v vacuum secondary carburetor will do nothing to increase power until around 3500 rpm. A mechanical secondary one can give you more power sooner as long as it is not too large for the application but it will still not get you off the line much faster.

 

Going up 1 step in gear ratio (like going from 3.25 to 3.5 or from 3.5 to 3.7 etc) will be a moderately noticeable change, but not a huge day and night difference. Going up 2 steps will be very noticeable. I would probably not go up more than 2 steps for your application.

 

The aftermarket gears available are below.

 

3.00 RATIO

MOTIVE PERFORMANCE

RS07890300

[/url]

3.00 RATIO

US/STRANGE

RS07890300US

3.25 RATIO

MOTIVE PERFORMANCE

RS07890325

 

3.25 RATIO

US/STRANGE

RS07890325US

3.40 RATIO

US/STRANGE

RS07890340US

3.50 RATIO

MOTIVE PERFORMANCE

RS07890350

 

3.50 RATIO

US/STRANGE

RS07890350US

 

3.70 RATIO

MOTIVE PERFORMANCE

RS07890370

 

3.70 RATIO

US/STRANGE

RS07890370US

3.89 RATIO

MOTIVE PERFORMANCE

RS07890389

 

3.89 RATIO

US/STRANGE

RS07890389US

 

4.00 RATIO

US/STRANGE

RS07890400US

 

4.11 RATIO

MOTIVE PERFORMANCE

RS07890411

 

 

 

Below is an rpm vs mph calculator you can play with.

 

http://www.wallaceracing.com/gear-speed.php

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Is there a sticker inside on the drivers door? this will show you the axel, trans, and engine code along with original color and interior trim and color. If there post a pic and we can decode it for you.

 

Never rely on the sticker to be accurate unless you are the original owner of the car.

 

Agree, with a further thought on your statement. I had to remove my original door data label during the complete rotisserie restoration of my vert. I did not want to do it, but, unlike earlier models, this was a glued on label, no way to properly restore the car and save the data label so that it did not show that the car was repainted... I was able to document the original label on the car before removal, as well as save the original label when I removed it from the car. As you know, it then must match the dash VIN, the fenderwell partial VIN's, the buck tag, the engine ID and transmission ID #'s, the build sheet, the Marti report (which for me is the weakest ling in all of this), the factory invoice and so on... 

 

Its a tough call when you take a car down to a point where it will be completely media blasted or chemically dipped... all one can do is document for future proof of what was done to a once original car... My experience in the matter...

"Yes dear", has kept me in the hobby a long time...

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I love my 4.11 gears with traction lok, it gets out of the hole real fast now. My car is driven around town 95% of the time so no problems or regrets here. I did the install myself, it was a pretty straight forward job for an experienced gearhead, no pun intended.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP hardware - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe - Duraspark - MSD digital 6al box - MSD TFI coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - lakewood traction bars.                                            

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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HI All 

 

Rear diff standard 2.75 :(

 

Wow, that is beyond lame. So a 3.25 will make a fairly noticeable difference and 3.40 and 3.50 will make even more. If you install 3.25's it will feel like you gained around 50 hp. If you install 3.50's it will feel like you gained 75 etc.

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