Need advice on moving the car

Hi, i am curentlymoving but in the middle of a project, but my car doesnt have any suspension or wheels but i need to move it to the new place. i do not know how to move it and i dont have the money to by the suspension system. do you have any suggestions on how to move my car







It's a bit messy but it is my first project car.

You can got to Harbor Freight and get some of the car dollies that you put a wheel into each dolly and if you have a smooth surface put them under the four corners of the car as is and pull onto a roll back. The small dia. wheels get hung on every little crack or the end of the roll back.

The other better way I have moved car without axles is to jack it up high enough to back a trailer under it. You use heavy timbers long enough to clear the trailer going side to side. Take off the same way, jack up and drive out. I did my 1965 Mustang that way twice when moving. It did not have a engine in it either so six people picked it up and trailer was backed in and sat down.

That is how I hauled my 2 post lift home and unloaded by myself with an engine lift.

I have a 29 Tudor I am building and the PO welded 8"casters to the front frame horn since there was no suspension-it almost works.

I see you made Car Guy Error #392 - throwing out the old parts before buying the new parts. Don't worry, we've all been there.

I've moved bare unibodies by the method David described, a couple long pieces of lumber to slide them up onto a trailer or rollback. If you have or know someone with a flatbed car hauler and a come-along or winch, you could slide it up that way.

Another way is the method used for eons to move heavy objects, get some 3" dia or so pieces of something round and use them as rollers. Fence post, pipe, whatever. You just need to provide a flat suface under the car, which could be a couple pieces of lumber.

Time to get creative!

Do you have a rear axle under there, I can’t tell?

If it were me, I would lag screw some casters to a piece of 4x4 and then lag screw into that through the front subframe rails. If there aren’t rubber seals in the floor over holes in the bottom side of the rails, make some.

If you have the rear axle/ springs this would allow you to somewhat move the body around.

If you don’t have the rear suspension then you may as well make some sort of cart or dolly for the whole thing...

Here is how I moved mine. Built the front dolly assembly to attach to front bumper mounts. rear axle was from an old truck and just threw that on with old truck springs.  If you have access to a welder the front dolly is very easy to make and I made it adjustable to fit different width bodies.  One thing I am going to change is to go with a larger wheel to get over cracks and gravel better.

a couple of 4x4s strung under the car and sitting on cheap moving dollies

Here is the first attempt with a 4x4 with wheel bolted around the front cross member under the engine bay. Was a bad attempt, but worked for the little moving that was done in this phase.

Recently I have taken the engine out of my 1971 Mustang coupe with an I6 250ci 4.1L

in it and it wasn't in the greatest condition with oil build up at the bottom of the cylinders and light pitting in most of them, I would like some opinions so if you have an opinion then id love to hear it.

- Thanks, Coop

Some more detail:

Cylinder 1: Little to no pitting little bit of oil build up on the sides at the bottom

Cylinder 2: Pretty much the same story

Cylinder 3: Decent ammount of pitting through out the cylinder, same oil build up at the bottom

Cylinder 4: same story as 3, more dirt than pitting it seems like

Cylinder 5:some bad pitting with some dirt same oil spots at the bottoms of the cylinders

Cylinder 6:some bad pitting worse than all of the other cylinders and the same oil spots

If you have any ideas of why they get worse through the cylinders id love to hear it as well because i do not know

Other engine stuff

crank shaft was in good condition barely anything that i could feel with my finger nail, a little rough on the bearings, but the rods and everything seem to be just a little dirty, there were a few kisses on the piston heads, I think that it is a timing issue, but i do not know.

again, thanks, if you have any ideas then id love to hear it

The engine sits higher in the front. Any condensation in the intake manifold runs towards the back.

Kisses on top of the pistons is not related to ignition timing. It can be caused by stuck valves, are the kisses on the rear pistons? The other reason is from a badly worn timing chain that has skipped a few notches, resulting in kisses on all the pistons.

Two items:

1) Scrap the 6 cyl for a 302 or 351 in a hurry. The six will cost a ton to rebuild and you will not be satisfied with it.

2) As suggested above also, I used 3" channel iron with 8" hard rubber tires, steering type from Harbor Freight for the front.