Door Sound/Heat Deadening

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EdM

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 5, 2014
Messages
578
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Location
Between the Texas Hill Country and North Idaho
My Car
1973 Mach 1 Q code, a 427 Dart based Windsor, Pro Flo 4, Tremec 5 speed, A/C, 12.7:1 steering conversion, SoT coil over and Dakota Digital dash.
I have done a fair bit of searching but am still looking for a photo of a "Dynomat" or equivalent installation on the doors of one of our cars. Well appreciated.

 
I would just duplicate the factory and do below the center beam of the door.  It's tough to get it in there and stuck, so i may spray deadener on mine again

Sorry I don't have any pics.

kcmash

 
I used roofing tape from Lowes. Worked perfectly, Impossible tell if actual dynamat would have did a better job, unless I rip all of it out and redo with the mat :shootself:  . Some people say, or afraid, that there will be odor from the tar, but I never had any, and it roasts here in the summer.

DSCN0003.jpg


DSCN0002.jpg




on the doors, I put the tape on the inside as shown, and also on the actual door sheet metal, cutting the material into strips and feeding it through the holes, so it is dampening the outer skin also . If you look close, you can see that it is cut into lots of little pieces before applying.

You would be amazed as to how solid the doors sound now when closing

 
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I guess I wasn't clear. Given the small access holes to the exterior body door panels through the interior door panel can one readily use the "tapes" through the access holes to the outer skin to make it worthwhile? Not sure I am clear here...

 
I guess I wasn't clear. Given the small access holes to the exterior body door panels through the interior door panel can one readily use the "tapes" through the access holes to the outer skin to make it worthwhile? Not sure I am clear here...
That is exactly what I did. I wish I had taken pictures of that step, but if I remember correctly, I cut it into pieces about 3" x 6". There are enough holes large enough to get your hand thru and stretch twist to get everywhere inside of the outside panel. I know it took at least a couple hours to do the each door. I most times was able to butt up the strips to each other, but overlapped it where it was easier.

I remember that there is a metal piece that runs front to back on the panel, but spaced away from the outer skin. I cut the tape so that it was a little wider than that, and was able to slip it behind that bracket from the top, and maneuver it, in place to get it to stick. I then used a wooden ruler to slip between the bracket and the door to rub it so that it was stuck on the whole surface.

The stuff I used is a lot more flexible/softer than the dynamat. I had tried using that on the door panels (where the knobs and speakers mount) previously, but it was so stiff and the glue didn't seem to be that good that I gave up. it wouldn't actually form to the contours so it didn't stick well.



https://www.lowes.com/pd/Peel-Seal-Instant-Waterproof-Repairs-6-in-x-25-ft-Aluminum-Roll-Flashing/1018733

 
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When I installed the Dynomat Extreme in both my 73 & 69 doors, I did it with the window assembly removed from the doors.  Dropped the sheet down from the top through window opening

Only pull back a bit of the bottom backing layer and fold it back from the bottom before inserting.  With the bottom lined up where it needed to go - about an inch from the bottom (don't block the drainage openings) peel back the backing and press it into place.  Used all kinds of extensions to reach into the door.  

The reason I went with DynoMat is because it seems to stick no matter what.  Friend of mine used Eastwood Thermo -coustic sound deadener material on roof of his coupe and it fell off into the liner a couple years later.  Eastwood might be fine for floors, but not sure I would want to trust it or other off-brands for vertical / underside applications.  It goes without saying that proper cleaning of the surface is essential no matter where you intend to install it.    The failure of the Eastwood could very well be from not properly cleaning the surface, but having not been present to see the installation, can't assign a reason for the failure either way.

 
I used roofing tape from Lowes. Worked perfectly, Impossible tell if actual dynamat would have did a better job, unless I rip all of it out and redo with the mat :shootself:  . Some people say, or afraid, that there will be odor from the tar, but I never had any, and it roasts here in the summer.

DSCN0003.jpg


DSCN0002.jpg




on the doors, I put the tape on the inside as shown, and also on the actual door sheet metal, cutting the material into strips and feeding it through the holes, so it is dampening the outer skin also .  If you look close, you can see that it is cut into lots of little pieces before applying.

You would be amazed as to how solid the doors sound now when closing
Hello mudbilly,

What type of handle is in your insulation picture?

 
When I installed the Dynomat Extreme in both my 73 & 69 doors, I did it with the window assembly removed from the doors.  Dropped the sheet down from the top through window opening

Only pull back a bit of the bottom backing layer and fold it back from the bottom before inserting.  With the bottom lined up where it needed to go - about an inch from the bottom (don't block the drainage openings) peel back the backing and press it into place.  Used all kinds of extensions to reach into the door.  

The reason I went with DynoMat is because it seems to stick no matter what.  Friend of mine used Eastwood Thermo -coustic sound deadener material on roof of his coupe and it fell off into the liner a couple years later.  Eastwood might be fine for floors, but not sure I would want to trust it or other off-brands for vertical / underside applications.  It goes without saying that proper cleaning of the surface is essential no matter where you intend to install it.    The failure of the Eastwood could very well be from not properly cleaning the surface, but having not been present to see the installation, can't assign a reason for the failure either way.
+1 on all you said!

 
As mentioned in Bills post, I also used Dynamat and fed strips of it thru the access holes in the door. Window and regulator were still in place at the time.

Surprisingly there is enough room to get your hands in there to clean, feed in the strips and stick them down. A J roller was even used to press the strips down for adhesion.

 
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mudbilly,

What is the window crank mechanism do you have here?

It's a kit made by Spal.......It looks kind of wimpy with plastic sprokets, but I've had it for a long time without any issues, I remember that I did have to put a bigger screw in right where you are pointing. It stops the internal and external splines from turning/stripping. I'm not even sure if I have the Delux model, I bought it so long ago.

Reviews are hit or miss on Amazon. I had some jerking going up and down, but after living with that for years, while redoing the window alignment, while doing the sound deadening, I found out that it was only a matter of greasing up the window regulator gears and slides and they all work smoothly now.

Kinda spendy, especially for all 4 windows, but I didn't know how to do stock or even if they were available 20 years ago.

I put the lighted switches in the center console, I know many would frown on that..................

That being said, I don't run the fronts up with the roof up and the doors closed, because the roof seal is pretty stiff and they won't shut all the way before the automatic switch turns them off thinking that they have bottomed out. Also, they are strong enough to try and cock the window once they hit the seal. I open the door, run them up, and close the door.

I bought some rubber softener to try out once the weather warms up.

https://www.amazon.com/Spal-33000030-Deluxe-Power-Window/dp/B0031Y3VDU

 
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