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jpaz
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Was looking at it some more and it looks like the drivers side of the front of the clip is moved in a bit, but the passenger side looks fine. It looks like it should be able to be straighten out.

The fan shroud barley hit the alternator fan, the power steering pump didn’t get hit by anything. The shroud did go up to the a/c pulley but doesn’t look to bad. I can’t get the hood open so it’s kinda hard to see, but the fan doesn’t even look like it’s into the radiator.

I am definitely worried about the engine coming to a sudden stop and my transmission is leaking. It had a little weep of a leak but it’s way worse now. I wasn’t going very fast, 20- 25 tops, and I was on the brakes when I hit the pole.

So if they don’t total it I think it’s going to be ok to fix. But then I need to find a good restoration shop around here that knows these cars. I want to make sure they check the straightness of the car. I just want it to be done right.

I’m also concerned about matching the paint. But I do have some of the original paint that was used and the formula so hopefully that won’t be an issue. Long way to go, I guess we’ll see what happens.

Thanks to Mano (Manny) for stopping by today to check out my car and give me something things to look at and some advice. Nice to talk to someone who has restored one of these cars.

Hey again thanks to all of you guys for helping me with this ordeal.

John - 72 Q Code

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Glad to hear you're OK, J!  That's the important part.

 

I'm thinking it's totally repairable.  I did a complete front clip on mine, and it's not all that difficult.  However, I don't think yours will need all that.  I'm thinking that with the front crossmember getting squished, it might've drawn in the driver side front frame rail just a bit (which pulled in the aprons and caused the fender to distort like that.  Honestly, from the pics I'd say you're looking at a frame straightening, new front crossmember, then the rest is cosmetic in the way of a new hood, bumper, valance, grille, and radiator support.  Of course the impact shocked the whole unibody, so check the factory lead seams locations (mine had popped lead, indicating a rather severe front impact, I'm sure), and you'll want to get all of the mechanicals checked out before putting it back on road after an alignment.  But I think it's all going to be OK.

 

I mean, pretty much  all of the replacement parts should run around $1000-1500, if you go with reproduction pieces, then it's a matter of getting the work done and repainted - I'd wager less than $7,000-8,000 (definitely less than $10K) to get it all back together - especially, if you can tackle some of the reassembly stuff yourself with some help/advice from Mano, if he's available.

 

Good luck with it, Brutha!  I know if any of us were close enough, we'd all be there right with ya to git 'r done!  Don't let the insurance company short-change you!

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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Looks like a typical Mach 1 wreck.  My guess would be 10K to have everything fixed on it. 

 

If it were a modern car that front clip would cost about 5 to 6 K for R&R,   Even if the gouge you it should be under $10K

 

Hood - $400

Dr Fender- $250

Grille - $300

Core Support: 125

Valence- $150

Radiator = $300

Misc Other stuff $2000

Paint - $2500?

 

Just guessing.  Might be able to save money by pulling the Core Support straight.

 

kcmash

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Looks like a typical Mach 1 wreck.  My guess would be 10K to have everything fixed on it. 

 

If it were a modern car that front clip would cost about 5 to 6 K for R&R,   Even if the gouge you it should be under $10K

 

Hood - $400

Dr Fender- $250

Grille - $300

Core Support: 125

Valence- $150

Radiator = $300

Misc Other stuff $2000

Paint - $2500?

 

Just guessing.  Might be able to save money by pulling the Core Support straight.

 

kcmash

 

My point exactly. ::thumb::

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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So I found a place pretty close to me that restores and repairs only 65-73 Mustangs called Mustang Craftsmen. Family owned and operated by Paul A. Beard for 35 years. He was first president and co-founder of the Mustang owners of mid Michigan. Anyone ever hear of them? Sure sounds like the right place for me to take my car for repairs.

John - 72 Q Code

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Looks like a decent shop. Do your homework first. Look them up in BBB, ask them for references, go to some regional mustang car shows and ask around about their work, ask them for a timeline and typically double it. Another shop in the midwest is Buckeye Classic Car Restoration.

BKDunha

72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)

67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)

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Ok, so I just got an estimate to fix the Mach 1. 14,500 is the initial estimate from the insurance company. 7,300 for labor, 6,100 for parts and 1,100 for additional costs. Sounds like a lot, but it’s smacked up pretty good. And I will hopefully get my back better than it was. 

I’m sure happy that I get to keep my car! :)

John - 72 Q Code

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Great news.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Did they discuss the engine?

No, but the adjuster did list an oil pan and gasket to be replaced. Why, I don’t know, there’s no oil leak. Transmission is leaking, so maybe he meant that.

I am concerned about it coming to a sudden stop, but I had my foot on the brake so at least it wasn’t reving really high. I will definitely be checking everything out. Hopefully no problems there.

John - 72 Q Code

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Great to hear you get to keep the car, not sure how it works in the USA but do you get to choose your repairer even if it goes over the estimate?

Hopefully you can get it back on the road soon

Yes, I can choose the shop. The estimate is just that... an estimate and the shop will have to let the insurance company know of any changes.

I'm in no big rush, just want the repairs done correct. Plus, winter is almost here so I won't drive it till next spring anyway.

Thank's OzCoupe72, I do hope it doesn't take too long.

John - 72 Q Code

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