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jpaz
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Is the car being repaired at Mustang Craftsmen in Michigan? Saw a picture of  a car that looked exactly as yours on their website. Great shop!

Yes it is. They came and picked it up last week. Great guys and I am really looking forward to getting it back.

John - 72 Q Code

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Great news all around. Glad the insurance company found a way to work with you and very happy that you have found a shop that you sound comfortable with. Best wishes on a stress free rebuild and that you will have it back in time for some summer cruising next year.

BKDunha

72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)

67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)

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Great news all around.  Glad the insurance company found a way to work with you and very happy that you have found a shop that you sound comfortable with.  Best wishes on a stress free rebuild and that you will have it back in time for some summer cruising next year.

 

Thanks bkdunha, I am definitely comfortable with them repairing my car. I’m also going to have them put the correct black on the hood, spoiler and louvers. And I’m having them install twist locks on the hood. My hood even had the wrong pattern for the blackout, so now I’m getting all that stuff corrected. Can’t wait!

John - 72 Q Code

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Very nice. Cant wait to see it back on the road!

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Happy to hear it is getting repaired.

On the hood black out one of our members did some research and all of the existing templates they see is incorrect. I did a rub off of my original and it was quite a bit different in radius and position. If you want a rub off for them to mask the hood by will be glad to get you on. I take a piece of masking paper and place over the front of the hood and mark the front edge of the hood and the edges along with the hood locks. Then take pencil and do a rub so you get the exact shape and position. They did a sorry job at the factory of getting them centered for sure, lol.

This is an original car not painted.

If they use a Dynacorn hood make sure they change the arch to match fenders and then spot weld the hem in a few places to keep it there and then seam seal it. Don't just assume they will do that. Dynacorn leaves the hem not welded for that reason so it can be fit to the car.

If you want an original Ford hood I have a spare, PM me.

Again glad to see you get to keep the car. Hope the back gets in shape also.

 

DSC-2475.jpg

 

DSC-2476.jpg

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Happy to hear it is getting repaired.

On the hood black out one of our members did some research and all of the existing templates they see is incorrect. I did a rub off of my original and it was quite a bit different in radius and position. If you want a rub off for them to mask the hood by will be glad to get you on. I take a piece of masking paper and place over the front of the hood and mark the front edge of the hood and the edges along with the hood locks. Then take pencil and do a rub so you get the exact shape and position. They did a sorry job at the factory of getting them centered for sure, lol.

This is an original car not painted.

If they use a Dynacorn hood make sure they change the arch to match fenders and then spot weld the hem in a few places to keep it there and then seam seal it. Don't just assume they will do that. Dynacorn leaves the hem not welded for that reason so it can be fit to the car.

If you want an original Ford hood I have a spare, PM me.

Again glad to see you get to keep the car. Hope the back gets in shape also.

 

DSC-2475.jpg

 

DSC-2476.jpg

Thanks so much for all the info David! Yes I am going to make sure they do the hood correct. I knew right off the bat mine was wrong when I bought it, but it wasn’t a deal changer. 

The guy doing my car has an original 71 429 car, so he knows the correct pattern. 

I didn’t know that about the repo hoods, but will definitely ask them about it and how they do them.

John - 72 Q Code

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Happy to hear it is getting repaired.

On the hood black out one of our members did some research and all of the existing templates they see is incorrect. I did a rub off of my original and it was quite a bit different in radius and position. If you want a rub off for them to mask the hood by will be glad to get you on. I take a piece of masking paper and place over the front of the hood and mark the front edge of the hood and the edges along with the hood locks. Then take pencil and do a rub so you get the exact shape and position. They did a sorry job at the factory of getting them centered for sure, lol.

This is an original car not painted.

If they use a Dynacorn hood make sure they change the arch to match fenders and then spot weld the hem in a few places to keep it there and then seam seal it. Don't just assume they will do that. Dynacorn leaves the hem not welded for that reason so it can be fit to the car.

If you want an original Ford hood I have a spare, PM me.

Again glad to see you get to keep the car. Hope the back gets in shape also.

 

DSC-2475.jpg

 

DSC-2476.jpg

Thanks so much for all the info David! Yes I am going to make sure they do the hood correct. I knew right off the bat mine was wrong when I bought it, but it wasn’t a deal changer. 

The guy doing my car has an original 71 429 car, so he knows the correct pattern. 

I didn’t know that about the repo hoods, but will definitely ask them about it and how they do them.

 

You also need to be sure they remove all the black E-coat from the repo hood. Rust hides under that on most panels and in years to come can pop out. The underside they will just scotchbrite and paint but the exterior needs to be bare metal and go from there.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Happy to hear it is getting repaired.

On the hood black out one of our members did some research and all of the existing templates they see is incorrect. I did a rub off of my original and it was quite a bit different in radius and position. If you want a rub off for them to mask the hood by will be glad to get you on. I take a piece of masking paper and place over the front of the hood and mark the front edge of the hood and the edges along with the hood locks. Then take pencil and do a rub so you get the exact shape and position. They did a sorry job at the factory of getting them centered for sure, lol.

This is an original car not painted.

If they use a Dynacorn hood make sure they change the arch to match fenders and then spot weld the hem in a few places to keep it there and then seam seal it. Don't just assume they will do that. Dynacorn leaves the hem not welded for that reason so it can be fit to the car.

If you want an original Ford hood I have a spare, PM me.

Again glad to see you get to keep the car. Hope the back gets in shape also.

 

DSC-2475.jpg

 

DSC-2476.jpg

Thanks so much for all the info David! Yes I am going to make sure they do the hood correct. I knew right off the bat mine was wrong when I bought it, but it wasn’t a deal changer. 

The guy doing my car has an original 71 429 car, so he knows the correct pattern. 

I didn’t know that about the repo hoods, but will definitely ask them about it and how they do them.

 

You also need to be sure they remove all the black E-coat from the repo hood. Rust hides under that on most panels and in years to come can pop out. The underside they will just scotchbrite and paint but the exterior needs to be bare metal and go from there.

Ok thanks again for all the help and info, not only for me but the entire site!

John - 72 Q Code

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Glad you did not get hurt. I am so sorry about your car. I would try to do everything in my power to convince the adjuster not to total it. I have Hagerty insurance as well but thankfully have never needed them. In RI where I live the second the adjuster decides to total a car it gets reported to the state DMV and ends up with a salvage title if opt to keep the car. This creates red tape like you can not imagine. The car will be permanently tainted and will require a special certified shop to do a salvage repair. Then the state has to sign off after they inspect it in order to register it again. But the title will always be listed as salvage. I hope everything works out for you.

Ron

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Glad you did not get hurt. I am so sorry about your car. I would try to do everything in my power to convince the adjuster not to total it. I have Hagerty insurance as well but thankfully have never needed them. In RI where I live the second the adjuster decides to total a car it gets reported to the state DMV and ends up with a salvage title if opt to keep the car. This creates red tape like you can not imagine. The car will be permanently tainted and will require a special certified shop to do a salvage repair. Then the state has to sign off after they inspect it  in order to register it again.  But the title will always be listed as salvage. I hope everything works out for you.

Ron

Thanks Ron, just a bit banged up but I feel way better now. Especially since the adjuster didn’t total my car. It’s at a Mustang shop and I think they are going to start working on it this week.

John - 72 Q Code

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Glad you did not get hurt. I am so sorry about your car. I would try to do everything in my power to convince the adjuster not to total it. I have Hagerty insurance as well but thankfully have never needed them. In RI where I live the second the adjuster decides to total a car it gets reported to the state DMV and ends up with a salvage title if opt to keep the car. This creates red tape like you can not imagine. The car will be permanently tainted and will require a special certified shop to do a salvage repair. Then the state has to sign off after they inspect it  in order to register it again.  But the title will always be listed as salvage. I hope everything works out for you.

Ron

Thanks Ron, just a bit banged up but I feel way better now. Especially since the adjuster didn’t total my car. It’s at a Mustang shop and I think they are going to start working on it this week.

 

That is great! I am happy to hear it. Hopefully the shop can get it back in action soon.

 

Ron

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Glad you did not get hurt. I am so sorry about your car. I would try to do everything in my power to convince the adjuster not to total it. I have Hagerty insurance as well but thankfully have never needed them. In RI where I live the second the adjuster decides to total a car it gets reported to the state DMV and ends up with a salvage title if opt to keep the car. This creates red tape like you can not imagine. The car will be permanently tainted and will require a special certified shop to do a salvage repair. Then the state has to sign off after they inspect it  in order to register it again.  But the title will always be listed as salvage. I hope everything works out for you.

Ron

Thanks Ron, just a bit banged up but I feel way better now. Especially since the adjuster didn’t total my car. It’s at a Mustang shop and I think they are going to start working on it this week.

 

That is great! I am happy to hear it. Hopefully the shop can get it back in action soon.

 

Ron

They said about a month, but I’m in no hurry. We had our first snow of the season and it’s 25 degrees out. I think it will be more like 6-8 weeks, we’ll see.

John - 72 Q Code

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Hi John! So glad to see you are OK. I just read the entire post and found a lot of really valuable information from so many members and I appreciate your posting all your experience with this unpleasant event so far. As I think everyone knows, I have a large collection of these cars and my insurance bill from Hagerty is quite high every year. I wonder if the forum can give me any advice on how best to manage my risk while "getting the most bang for my buck" from the insurance company? I know I am in a unique situation because I have over 25 cars in various states of repairs, and in addition to that I live in Alabama where they don't title cars this age but they do require a registration certificate and tag, and in order to keep the tag you have to have liability insurance. Unfortunately Hagerty does not allow liability insurance only, but you can get a minimum value of $3500 on the car in order to pay the lowest rate. That works fine for my crappy cars that are only really worth $3500, but what do I do about a car like my 72 R code convertible that just went through a $80,000 restoration? I rarely drive the car. I have the car insured for $70,000. After reading about your experience so far, I think I'm going to knock down the values of my cars to try to lower my rate, which runs about $2,500 a year. My concern is that if I put a high value on my cars (or even what they are probably really worth), the insurance company will always try to fix the car and NOT total it out because they want to spend less money. I really thought at first glance that the insurance company was going to total your car. If I had been you, I would have asked for the "guaranteed value" of $35,000 and taken a little less to keep the car. But it does not sound like you would have been given that option when the car could be repaired for $14,500. All this really makes me wonder what kind of a fight I would get into with the insurance company if I got into a wreck with my R code, and let's say the car is nearly vaporized in the accident, but then the insurance company does everything they can do to fix the car (and based on what we have all read from yours and other peoples' experiences, it looks like ANY car CAN be fixed if there is enough money available, in my case $70,000 for the R code), what I would be left with is a car that would ultimately be worth FAR less that what it was before the accident (who would ever want to pay top dollar for my car with the stigma of the accident hanging over it)? Anyway, your experience has given me lots of food for thought. I am (fortunately or unfortunately) in a very unique situation when it comes to these cars. I have been collecting them for so long, and it seems I can never turn one down if it comes up for sale and has something going for it that I think will make it a great addition to my collection. The sad thing is that I can only drive one car at a time, and most of my cars have not been driven in years. Three are kept at my house (the nicest ones), and the rest are either at my shop (where really NOTHING can happen to them, seeing as it is cinder block and steel, so not really flammable), or out somewhere at other shops at various stages of restoration (where they SHOULD be covered by their insurance). I guess everyone on the site wishes they had my kind of problems ;) !

1F03M, Maroon,Blk Int,Wht Top,A/C,Rim Blow,Posi

1F03M, Maroon,Wht/Wht,PW

1F03M, GrbrLime,Wht/Wht,A/C,CA Car

1F03M, Drk Green,Grn/Blk,4-Spd,Tach,R/A,Tilt,Rim Blow,PW

1F03M, Drk Grn,Blk/Blk,4-Spd,Tach,A/C,Tilt,Rim Blow,Mgnms

1F03M, Black,Wht,Wht,Tach,Posi

1F03M, Brown,Ginger,Blk,4-Spd,R/A,Tach

1F03M, Pewter,Blk,Blk,4-Spd,A/C,R/A,Tach,Mgnms

2F03R, GrabberBlue,Wht,Wht,Dcr Grp,Tach

2F03R, Brgt Blue,Wht,Wht,Dcr Grp,Tach

2F03Q, Red,Wht,Wht,Rim Blow,A/C,Tach,Conv.Grp,DcrGrp,Stripes,Mgnms

2F03Q, Rd,Rd,Blk,Rim Blow,A/C,Tach

2F03Q, Brgt Lime(Orig. Gld Glw),Blk,Blk,A/C,P/W,Tilt,Conv Grp,Dcr Grp

2F03Q, Grbr Blue,(Orig. Brt Blue)Wht, Wht,4-Spd,Tach,A/C

3F03Q, (2) Gold Glow(one Blk int,one Ginger int),both 4-Spd,Tach,Dcr Grp,Stripes,TuTone Hood,Frgd Whls

3F03Q,BluGlow,Blu,Wht,4Spd,A/C,Tach,DcrGrp,Stripes,TT,Frgd Whls

3F03Q, Copper,Gngr,Blk,4Spd,Tach,DcrGrp,Stripes,T-T,Frgd Whls

3F03Q, Trpl Wht,A/C,P/W,Tilt,Tach

3F03Q, Spcl Ordr Black,Blk,Wht,Tach

3F03Q, Spcl Order Purple,Wht,Wht,A/C,Tach,Tilt,P/W,Frgd Whls

And 10 more verts, 2 Boss 351s and 1 M-code Mach I! :D

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Hi John! So glad to see you are OK. I just read the entire post and found a lot of really valuable information from so many members and I appreciate your posting all your experience with this unpleasant event so far. As I think everyone knows, I have a large collection of these cars and my insurance bill from Hagerty is quite high every year. I wonder if the forum can give me any advice on how best to manage my risk while "getting the most bang for my buck" from the insurance company? I know I am in a unique situation because I have over 25 cars in various states of repairs, and in addition to that I live in Alabama where they don't title cars this age but they do require a registration certificate and tag, and in order to keep the tag you have to have liability insurance. Unfortunately Hagerty does not allow liability insurance only, but you can get a minimum value of $3500 on the car in order to pay the lowest rate. That works fine for my crappy cars that are only really worth $3500, but what do I do about a car like my 72 R code convertible that just went through a $80,000 restoration? I rarely drive the car. I have the car insured for $70,000. After reading about your experience so far, I think I'm going to knock down the values of my cars to try to lower my rate, which runs about $2,500 a year. My concern is that if I put a high value on my cars (or even what they are probably really worth), the insurance company will always try to fix the car and NOT total it out because they want to spend less money. I really thought at first glance that the insurance company was going to total your car. If I had been you, I would have asked for the "guaranteed value" of $35,000 and taken a little less to keep the car. But it does not sound like you would have been given that option when the car could be repaired for $14,500. All this really makes me wonder what kind of a fight I would get into with the insurance company if I got into a wreck with my R code, and let's say the car is nearly vaporized in the accident, but then the insurance company does everything they can do to fix the car (and based on what we have all read from yours and other peoples' experiences, it looks like ANY car CAN be fixed if there is enough money available, in my case $70,000 for the R code), what I would be left with is a car that would ultimately be worth FAR less that what it was before the accident (who would ever want to pay top dollar for my car with the stigma of the accident hanging over it)? Anyway, your experience has given me lots of food for thought. I am (fortunately or unfortunately) in a very unique situation when it comes to these cars. I have been collecting them for so long, and it seems I can never turn one down if it comes up for sale and has something going for it that I think will make it a great addition to my collection. The sad thing is that I can only drive one car at a time, and most of my cars have not been driven in years. Three are kept at my house (the nicest ones), and the rest are either at my shop (where really NOTHING can happen to them, seeing as it is cinder block and steel, so not really flammable), or out somewhere at other shops at various stages of restoration (where they SHOULD be covered by their insurance). I guess everyone on the site wishes they had my kind of problems ;) !

 

 

I think we need a road trip to see your Mustangs.   ::thumb::

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Hi John! So glad to see you are OK. I just read the entire post and found a lot of really valuable information from so many members and I appreciate your posting all your experience with this unpleasant event so far. As I think everyone knows, I have a large collection of these cars and my insurance bill from Hagerty is quite high every year. I wonder if the forum can give me any advice on how best to manage my risk while "getting the most bang for my buck" from the insurance company? I know I am in a unique situation because I have over 25 cars in various states of repairs, and in addition to that I live in Alabama where they don't title cars this age but they do require a registration certificate and tag, and in order to keep the tag you have to have liability insurance. Unfortunately Hagerty does not allow liability insurance only, but you can get a minimum value of $3500 on the car in order to pay the lowest rate. That works fine for my crappy cars that are only really worth $3500, but what do I do about a car like my 72 R code convertible that just went through a $80,000 restoration? I rarely drive the car. I have the car insured for $70,000. After reading about your experience so far, I think I'm going to knock down the values of my cars to try to lower my rate, which runs about $2,500 a year. My concern is that if I put a high value on my cars (or even what they are probably really worth), the insurance company will always try to fix the car and NOT total it out because they want to spend less money. I really thought at first glance that the insurance company was going to total your car. If I had been you, I would have asked for the "guaranteed value" of $35,000 and taken a little less to keep the car. But it does not sound like you would have been given that option when the car could be repaired for $14,500. All this really makes me wonder what kind of a fight I would get into with the insurance company if I got into a wreck with my R code, and let's say the car is nearly vaporized in the accident, but then the insurance company does everything they can do to fix the car (and based on what we have all read from yours and other peoples' experiences, it looks like ANY car CAN be fixed if there is enough money available, in my case $70,000 for the R code), what I would be left with is a car that would ultimately be worth FAR less that what it was before the accident (who would ever want to pay top dollar for my car with the stigma of the accident hanging over it)? Anyway, your experience has given me lots of food for thought. I am (fortunately or unfortunately) in a very unique situation when it comes to these cars. I have been collecting them for so long, and it seems I can never turn one down if it comes up for sale and has something going for it that I think will make it a great addition to my collection. The sad thing is that I can only drive one car at a time, and most of my cars have not been driven in years. Three are kept at my house (the nicest ones), and the rest are either at my shop (where really NOTHING can happen to them, seeing as it is cinder block and steel, so not really flammable), or out somewhere at other shops at various stages of restoration (where they SHOULD be covered by their insurance). I guess everyone on the site wishes they had my kind of problems ;) !

 

 

I think we need a road trip to see your Mustangs.   ::thumb::

 

1F03M, Maroon,Blk Int,Wht Top,A/C,Rim Blow,Posi

1F03M, Maroon,Wht/Wht,PW

1F03M, GrbrLime,Wht/Wht,A/C,CA Car

1F03M, Drk Green,Grn/Blk,4-Spd,Tach,R/A,Tilt,Rim Blow,PW

1F03M, Drk Grn,Blk/Blk,4-Spd,Tach,A/C,Tilt,Rim Blow,Mgnms

1F03M, Black,Wht,Wht,Tach,Posi

1F03M, Brown,Ginger,Blk,4-Spd,R/A,Tach

1F03M, Pewter,Blk,Blk,4-Spd,A/C,R/A,Tach,Mgnms

2F03R, GrabberBlue,Wht,Wht,Dcr Grp,Tach

2F03R, Brgt Blue,Wht,Wht,Dcr Grp,Tach

2F03Q, Red,Wht,Wht,Rim Blow,A/C,Tach,Conv.Grp,DcrGrp,Stripes,Mgnms

2F03Q, Rd,Rd,Blk,Rim Blow,A/C,Tach

2F03Q, Brgt Lime(Orig. Gld Glw),Blk,Blk,A/C,P/W,Tilt,Conv Grp,Dcr Grp

2F03Q, Grbr Blue,(Orig. Brt Blue)Wht, Wht,4-Spd,Tach,A/C

3F03Q, (2) Gold Glow(one Blk int,one Ginger int),both 4-Spd,Tach,Dcr Grp,Stripes,TuTone Hood,Frgd Whls

3F03Q,BluGlow,Blu,Wht,4Spd,A/C,Tach,DcrGrp,Stripes,TT,Frgd Whls

3F03Q, Copper,Gngr,Blk,4Spd,Tach,DcrGrp,Stripes,T-T,Frgd Whls

3F03Q, Trpl Wht,A/C,P/W,Tilt,Tach

3F03Q, Spcl Ordr Black,Blk,Wht,Tach

3F03Q, Spcl Order Purple,Wht,Wht,A/C,Tach,Tilt,P/W,Frgd Whls

And 10 more verts, 2 Boss 351s and 1 M-code Mach I! :D

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Hi John! So glad to see you are OK. I just read the entire post and found a lot of really valuable information from so many members and I appreciate your posting all your experience with this unpleasant event so far. As I think everyone knows, I have a large collection of these cars and my insurance bill from Hagerty is quite high every year. I wonder if the forum can give me any advice on how best to manage my risk while "getting the most bang for my buck" from the insurance company? I know I am in a unique situation because I have over 25 cars in various states of repairs, and in addition to that I live in Alabama where they don't title cars this age but they do require a registration certificate and tag, and in order to keep the tag you have to have liability insurance. Unfortunately Hagerty does not allow liability insurance only, but you can get a minimum value of $3500 on the car in order to pay the lowest rate. That works fine for my crappy cars that are only really worth $3500, but what do I do about a car like my 72 R code convertible that just went through a $80,000 restoration? I rarely drive the car. I have the car insured for $70,000. After reading about your experience so far, I think I'm going to knock down the values of my cars to try to lower my rate, which runs about $2,500 a year. My concern is that if I put a high value on my cars (or even what they are probably really worth), the insurance company will always try to fix the car and NOT total it out because they want to spend less money. I really thought at first glance that the insurance company was going to total your car. If I had been you, I would have asked for the "guaranteed value" of $35,000 and taken a little less to keep the car. But it does not sound like you would have been given that option when the car could be repaired for $14,500. All this really makes me wonder what kind of a fight I would get into with the insurance company if I got into a wreck with my R code, and let's say the car is nearly vaporized in the accident, but then the insurance company does everything they can do to fix the car (and based on what we have all read from yours and other peoples' experiences, it looks like ANY car CAN be fixed if there is enough money available, in my case $70,000 for the R code), what I would be left with is a car that would ultimately be worth FAR less that what it was before the accident (who would ever want to pay top dollar for my car with the stigma of the accident hanging over it)? Anyway, your experience has given me lots of food for thought. I am (fortunately or unfortunately) in a very unique situation when it comes to these cars. I have been collecting them for so long, and it seems I can never turn one down if it comes up for sale and has something going for it that I think will make it a great addition to my collection. The sad thing is that I can only drive one car at a time, and most of my cars have not been driven in years. Three are kept at my house (the nicest ones), and the rest are either at my shop (where really NOTHING can happen to them, seeing as it is cinder block and steel, so not really flammable), or out somewhere at other shops at various stages of restoration (where they SHOULD be covered by their insurance). I guess everyone on the site wishes they had my kind of problems ;) !

Ya wow, you have quite the unique situation there! I guess I would try to do the same thing.

All I can say about Hagerty is they have been great so far, and the the shop that’s doing the repairs says the same thing. The owner told me he has dealt with them quite a few times and they have always been great. He has his cars insured with them too.

John - 72 Q Code

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LOL! I'm afraid you might be disappointed as many are projects. Some are even hanging from the ceiling! lollerz

shop-photos-166.jpg

 

 

shop-photos-239.jpg

1F03M, Maroon,Blk Int,Wht Top,A/C,Rim Blow,Posi

1F03M, Maroon,Wht/Wht,PW

1F03M, GrbrLime,Wht/Wht,A/C,CA Car

1F03M, Drk Green,Grn/Blk,4-Spd,Tach,R/A,Tilt,Rim Blow,PW

1F03M, Drk Grn,Blk/Blk,4-Spd,Tach,A/C,Tilt,Rim Blow,Mgnms

1F03M, Black,Wht,Wht,Tach,Posi

1F03M, Brown,Ginger,Blk,4-Spd,R/A,Tach

1F03M, Pewter,Blk,Blk,4-Spd,A/C,R/A,Tach,Mgnms

2F03R, GrabberBlue,Wht,Wht,Dcr Grp,Tach

2F03R, Brgt Blue,Wht,Wht,Dcr Grp,Tach

2F03Q, Red,Wht,Wht,Rim Blow,A/C,Tach,Conv.Grp,DcrGrp,Stripes,Mgnms

2F03Q, Rd,Rd,Blk,Rim Blow,A/C,Tach

2F03Q, Brgt Lime(Orig. Gld Glw),Blk,Blk,A/C,P/W,Tilt,Conv Grp,Dcr Grp

2F03Q, Grbr Blue,(Orig. Brt Blue)Wht, Wht,4-Spd,Tach,A/C

3F03Q, (2) Gold Glow(one Blk int,one Ginger int),both 4-Spd,Tach,Dcr Grp,Stripes,TuTone Hood,Frgd Whls

3F03Q,BluGlow,Blu,Wht,4Spd,A/C,Tach,DcrGrp,Stripes,TT,Frgd Whls

3F03Q, Copper,Gngr,Blk,4Spd,Tach,DcrGrp,Stripes,T-T,Frgd Whls

3F03Q, Trpl Wht,A/C,P/W,Tilt,Tach

3F03Q, Spcl Ordr Black,Blk,Wht,Tach

3F03Q, Spcl Order Purple,Wht,Wht,A/C,Tach,Tilt,P/W,Frgd Whls

And 10 more verts, 2 Boss 351s and 1 M-code Mach I! :D

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Hi John! So glad to see you are OK. I just read the entire post and found a lot of really valuable information from so many members and I appreciate your posting all your experience with this unpleasant event so far. As I think everyone knows, I have a large collection of these cars and my insurance bill from Hagerty is quite high every year. I wonder if the forum can give me any advice on how best to manage my risk while "getting the most bang for my buck" from the insurance company? I know I am in a unique situation because I have over 25 cars in various states of repairs, and in addition to that I live in Alabama where they don't title cars this age but they do require a registration certificate and tag, and in order to keep the tag you have to have liability insurance. Unfortunately Hagerty does not allow liability insurance only, but you can get a minimum value of $3500 on the car in order to pay the lowest rate. That works fine for my crappy cars that are only really worth $3500, but what do I do about a car like my 72 R code convertible that just went through a $80,000 restoration? I rarely drive the car. I have the car insured for $70,000. After reading about your experience so far, I think I'm going to knock down the values of my cars to try to lower my rate, which runs about $2,500 a year. My concern is that if I put a high value on my cars (or even what they are probably really worth), the insurance company will always try to fix the car and NOT total it out because they want to spend less money. I really thought at first glance that the insurance company was going to total your car. If I had been you, I would have asked for the "guaranteed value" of $35,000 and taken a little less to keep the car. But it does not sound like you would have been given that option when the car could be repaired for $14,500. All this really makes me wonder what kind of a fight I would get into with the insurance company if I got into a wreck with my R code, and let's say the car is nearly vaporized in the accident, but then the insurance company does everything they can do to fix the car (and based on what we have all read from yours and other peoples' experiences, it looks like ANY car CAN be fixed if there is enough money available, in my case $70,000 for the R code), what I would be left with is a car that would ultimately be worth FAR less that what it was before the accident (who would ever want to pay top dollar for my car with the stigma of the accident hanging over it)? Anyway, your experience has given me lots of food for thought. I am (fortunately or unfortunately) in a very unique situation when it comes to these cars. I have been collecting them for so long, and it seems I can never turn one down if it comes up for sale and has something going for it that I think will make it a great addition to my collection. The sad thing is that I can only drive one car at a time, and most of my cars have not been driven in years. Three are kept at my house (the nicest ones), and the rest are either at my shop (where really NOTHING can happen to them, seeing as it is cinder block and steel, so not really flammable), or out somewhere at other shops at various stages of restoration (where they SHOULD be covered by their insurance). I guess everyone on the site wishes they had my kind of problems ;) !

 

Kevin,

Find out if Alabama is a diminished value state. 

If so I think you can argue for a payment of the different of the cars value from before VS after the accident.

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Hi John! So glad to see you are OK. I just read the entire post and found a lot of really valuable information from so many members and I appreciate your posting all your experience with this unpleasant event so far. As I think everyone knows, I have a large collection of these cars and my insurance bill from Hagerty is quite high every year. I wonder if the forum can give me any advice on how best to manage my risk while "getting the most bang for my buck" from the insurance company? I know I am in a unique situation because I have over 25 cars in various states of repairs, and in addition to that I live in Alabama where they don't title cars this age but they do require a registration certificate and tag, and in order to keep the tag you have to have liability insurance. Unfortunately Hagerty does not allow liability insurance only, but you can get a minimum value of $3500 on the car in order to pay the lowest rate. That works fine for my crappy cars that are only really worth $3500, but what do I do about a car like my 72 R code convertible that just went through a $80,000 restoration? I rarely drive the car. I have the car insured for $70,000. After reading about your experience so far, I think I'm going to knock down the values of my cars to try to lower my rate, which runs about $2,500 a year. My concern is that if I put a high value on my cars (or even what they are probably really worth), the insurance company will always try to fix the car and NOT total it out because they want to spend less money. I really thought at first glance that the insurance company was going to total your car. If I had been you, I would have asked for the "guaranteed value" of $35,000 and taken a little less to keep the car. But it does not sound like you would have been given that option when the car could be repaired for $14,500. All this really makes me wonder what kind of a fight I would get into with the insurance company if I got into a wreck with my R code, and let's say the car is nearly vaporized in the accident, but then the insurance company does everything they can do to fix the car (and based on what we have all read from yours and other peoples' experiences, it looks like ANY car CAN be fixed if there is enough money available, in my case $70,000 for the R code), what I would be left with is a car that would ultimately be worth FAR less that what it was before the accident (who would ever want to pay top dollar for my car with the stigma of the accident hanging over it)? Anyway, your experience has given me lots of food for thought. I am (fortunately or unfortunately) in a very unique situation when it comes to these cars. I have been collecting them for so long, and it seems I can never turn one down if it comes up for sale and has something going for it that I think will make it a great addition to my collection. The sad thing is that I can only drive one car at a time, and most of my cars have not been driven in years. Three are kept at my house (the nicest ones), and the rest are either at my shop (where really NOTHING can happen to them, seeing as it is cinder block and steel, so not really flammable), or out somewhere at other shops at various stages of restoration (where they SHOULD be covered by their insurance). I guess everyone on the site wishes they had my kind of problems ;) !

 

Kevin,

Find out if Alabama is a diminished value state. 

If so I think you can argue for a payment of the different of the cars value from before VS after the accident.

 

Good point Don. Thanks!

1F03M, Maroon,Blk Int,Wht Top,A/C,Rim Blow,Posi

1F03M, Maroon,Wht/Wht,PW

1F03M, GrbrLime,Wht/Wht,A/C,CA Car

1F03M, Drk Green,Grn/Blk,4-Spd,Tach,R/A,Tilt,Rim Blow,PW

1F03M, Drk Grn,Blk/Blk,4-Spd,Tach,A/C,Tilt,Rim Blow,Mgnms

1F03M, Black,Wht,Wht,Tach,Posi

1F03M, Brown,Ginger,Blk,4-Spd,R/A,Tach

1F03M, Pewter,Blk,Blk,4-Spd,A/C,R/A,Tach,Mgnms

2F03R, GrabberBlue,Wht,Wht,Dcr Grp,Tach

2F03R, Brgt Blue,Wht,Wht,Dcr Grp,Tach

2F03Q, Red,Wht,Wht,Rim Blow,A/C,Tach,Conv.Grp,DcrGrp,Stripes,Mgnms

2F03Q, Rd,Rd,Blk,Rim Blow,A/C,Tach

2F03Q, Brgt Lime(Orig. Gld Glw),Blk,Blk,A/C,P/W,Tilt,Conv Grp,Dcr Grp

2F03Q, Grbr Blue,(Orig. Brt Blue)Wht, Wht,4-Spd,Tach,A/C

3F03Q, (2) Gold Glow(one Blk int,one Ginger int),both 4-Spd,Tach,Dcr Grp,Stripes,TuTone Hood,Frgd Whls

3F03Q,BluGlow,Blu,Wht,4Spd,A/C,Tach,DcrGrp,Stripes,TT,Frgd Whls

3F03Q, Copper,Gngr,Blk,4Spd,Tach,DcrGrp,Stripes,T-T,Frgd Whls

3F03Q, Trpl Wht,A/C,P/W,Tilt,Tach

3F03Q, Spcl Ordr Black,Blk,Wht,Tach

3F03Q, Spcl Order Purple,Wht,Wht,A/C,Tach,Tilt,P/W,Frgd Whls

And 10 more verts, 2 Boss 351s and 1 M-code Mach I! :D

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Thanks Ron, just a bit banged up but I feel way better now. Especially since the adjuster didn’t total my car. It’s at a Mustang shop and I think they are going to start working on it this week.

 

That is great! I am happy to hear it. Hopefully the shop can get it back in action soon.

 

Ron

They said about a month, but I’m in no hurry. We had our first snow of the season and it’s 25 degrees out. I think it will be more like 6-8 weeks, we’ll see.

 

After first snow falls around here is when I put her away for the season. The crap they treat the roads with kills cars. Ron

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Ok, I have a little update on my car. The owner let me today they started work on it. Said everything looks ok, doesn’t look like any major hidden structural damage was done. I was real happy with the fact they have already started on it and he let me know so we could go over a few things.

Plus he pointed out that the distribution block for my brakes is the wrong one. I have always wondered why the back brakes were so easy to lock up and this is why. The one that the guy who restored it used one for a 67. So it was for a manual brake system, not power and didn’t distribute the pressure right and made the rear brakes lock up to easily.

So anyway they caught that right away and he wanted to know if I wanted them to fix it with the correct part. I of course said yes. I knew something was up with that cause the emergency plug wire that goes to it wouldn’t connect to it. Wasn’t sure why, but I do now. So I’m very happy with them and it sounds like it’s at the correct place.

John - 72 Q Code

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Ok, I have a little update on my car. The owner let me today they started work on it. Said everything looks ok, doesn’t look like any major hidden structural damage was done. I was real happy with the fact they have already started on it and he let me know so we could go over a few things.

Plus he pointed out that the distribution block for my brakes is the wrong one. I have always wondered why the back brakes were so easy to lock up and this is why. The one that the guy who restored it used one for a 67. So it was for a manual brake system, not power and didn’t distribute the pressure right and made the rear brakes lock up to easily.

So anyway they caught that right away and he wanted to know if I wanted them to fix it with the correct part. I of course said yes. I knew something was up with that cause the emergency plug wire that goes to it wouldn’t connect to it. Wasn’t sure why, but I do now. So I’m very happy with them and it sounds like it’s at the correct place.

 

Could your improperly functioning brakes contributed to your accident? Just curious if you think you could have stopped before hitting the pole if the brakes had been working properly.

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Ok, I have a little update on my car. The owner let me today they started work on it. Said everything looks ok, doesn’t look like any major hidden structural damage was done. I was real happy with the fact they have already started on it and he let me know so we could go over a few things.

Plus he pointed out that the distribution block for my brakes is the wrong one. I have always wondered why the back brakes were so easy to lock up and this is why. The one that the guy who restored it used one for a 67. So it was for a manual brake system, not power and didn’t distribute the pressure right and made the rear brakes lock up to easily.

So anyway they caught that right away and he wanted to know if I wanted them to fix it with the correct part. I of course said yes. I knew something was up with that cause the emergency plug wire that goes to it wouldn’t connect to it. Wasn’t sure why, but I do now. So I’m very happy with them and it sounds like it’s at the correct place.

 

Could your improperly functioning brakes contributed to your accident? Just curious if you think you could have stopped before hitting the pole if the brakes had been working properly.

Not really sure, but a good question. I guess I may have been able to slow down a bit more. Pretty sure I still would have hit that pole though. It’s so close to the side of the road.

John - 72 Q Code

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Wow, that really hurts!! To see one of these banged up is my worst nightmare. I'm only just reading about this, guess I'm just late to the party.

Anyway, the best news was you were not hurt badly and that is the most important part. Cars can be fixed or replaced.

All the best with it,

Geoff.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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