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Have started the long job of cleaning the 73 Mach 1


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OK my neck was killing me Friday so I just pulled the aluminum strip off the roof on the 3/4 vinyl roof. You start in the middle and pry up with a plastic trim tool and work the either side. The last clip in crimped into the trim so DO NOT pry it off. Slide it to the side of the car and will come right off. The short end pieces are crimped onto the long sections.

So I soaked with over cleaner and fine steel wool twice. Went to do some buffing but still has too much anodizing on it will have to go back to oven cleaner.

The thin strips will grab on the buffer if you do not follow some rules. Always buff going length wise to the part. Never have an open end facing up when buffing. Always have the wheel going off the open end. Never do open edges wheel will grab and ruin your part before you can blink an eye.

I also pulled the front seats out and the console. They had never been out and I got one of the Cougar wire harness on the console. They had a light in the ash try that most Mustangs did not get. They were probably trying to use up Cougar stock where they could. Nice mouse nest under the console also. I am sure I will find several.

I have been running ozone generator in the car which will eventually remove all odors.

So on Saturday I pulled the hood locks off and cleaned and detailed them and bagged them to install. I also took the grill out and pulled the front fenders off. I was surprised that there were no leaves behind the fenders. No rust in the rocker boxes up front.

Will get some help and remove the hood next and then the transmission out the bottom and engine out the top. Then can do some serious detail cleaning. I have one of those inside the home steam cleaners I am going to give a try.

Got to get my list of parts to NPD and keep the ball rolling.

Will have to get another Torx driver the size for the seat belts so I can get the carpet out and see if I am lucky to find the build sheet. I broke 4 of them tearing down a parts car and never did get three of them out. Friend even loaned me his Snap On broke easier than the Lowe's ones did.

Some pics with notes about buffing and pics of tear down.

I did nothing today went with friend that has kennel. She is getting some goats to add to her little farm, lol. So she got some special dog that gets huge that protects cattle and goats, lol. I forget the breed long white hair and huge head, just 9 week old pup. We have lots of coyotes here and they will kill you goats.

 

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NEVER BUFF TO AN OPEN END LIKE THIS. 

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ALWAYS HAVE THE OPEN END POINTING IN THE DIRECTION OF ROTATION.

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DO NOT BUFF TO AN OPEN EDGE WHEEL WILL GRAB THE EDGE AND BOOM TRASHED PART.

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GO LENGTH WISE OF THE PART AND IT WILL NEVER GRAB.

 

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TOWARD THE MIDDLE OF THE BRACKET WHERE IT IS ON THE RADIATOR SUPPORT IS A PIECE OF MASKING TAPE. I SUSPECT THAT IS WHERE ONE OF THE BUILD SHEETS WAS TAPED. THERE WERE SEVERAL AND SOMETIMES NONE MADE THEIR WAY INTO THE CAR.

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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I think I remember you saying you live in North Carolina, by seeing all the rust underneath they must use straight salt to treat the roads in the winter time. How many miles did you say were on this car? I know you have probably said it before but I missed it. My car was like that also but it was driven many miles (who knows where) and apparently kept outside it whole life. Good luck, you have a monumental task ahead, especially with a dead line looming.

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Never drove it in salt. I always had several cars and motor cycle. It sat in an open pole barn on 4 flat tires since 1982 on dirt. We had 100" of rain here last year. All the suspension rusts like crazy. No rust on any body panels at all. Most of the suspension stuff had no or little paint on it so no protection means rust.

It is not going to be a show car and not ever going to try make it that. I will not ever go to MCA shows again. It is just a survivor with 12,200 miles one owner and I ordered it not the dealer so I got everything but the block heater and somehow missed that.

It is going to be sitting in a museum with hood and trunk open and nobody going to be under the car. Just going to make it safe to move around and will probably never see the open road again. It may be donated to the museum never know. What am I going to do with it when I am dead, lol.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Since nobody in my family likes cars they will get sold at auction anyway.

Yes the cars will get rotated in and out of the Museum it is not that large, I think 60 cars fit?

If the car were restored the value drops by 50% they are only original once. I am only doing safety related items and cleaning and detailing.

Will see how it goes at the museum. The owner of NPD wants to buy it also. They have quite a collection.

This 1950 Ford is also an odd original car. Never had tires put on has original belts and hoses on engine. I did drive it some until 1997 and job and family took all my time again. This car has 16,000 miles interior is original and all the paint fell off. Sat in a barn in Buffalo NY from 1954 until I got in 1995. Sold for $1,000 at estate auction.

Several judges from AACA have viewed the car and said if it were painted would not be worth as much. Seems to be the fad to have original rusty cars, lol. The moths liked the wool seat covers.

The tag in the trunk was on the car when I got it, 1954.

I did not have to do anything to the engine, even the brake master cylinder and wheel cylinders were not rusty. Still has the factory exhaust also. It has turn signals, rear window wiper and rear window louvers, all were Ford options back then. Did not have a radio. I have 4 of these that will be going somewhere also.

A museum in Gatlinburg Tenn. wants this one.

But yesterday I spent all day with wire brush and sand blast cabinet cleaning the suspension and brake parts. Do not have time to wait on the molasses tank.

Should start going back together with suspension next week.

 

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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"A museum in Gatlinburg Tenn. wants this one." 

 

Which museum? I will be in Pigeon Forge for the rod run in April and September. I would like to check it out.

 

It is actually the one in Pigeon Forge on the left as you head out to I-40. I forget the name. I also talked with them about the mustang there before the MOM came to be.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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"A museum in Gatlinburg Tenn. wants this one." 

 

Which museum? I will be in Pigeon Forge for the rod run in April and September. I would like to check it out.

 

It is actually the one in Pigeon Forge on the left as you head out to I-40. I forget the name. I also talked with them about the mustang there before the MOM came to be.

 

Could it be Floyd Garrett's in Sevierville ? I ask because Smoky Mountain Car Museum has been closed down for a bit now.

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Probably Floyd Garrett's Muscle Car Museum in Sevierville. About 9 miles in from I-40 on hwy 66, on the right side just past the Volunteer Chevrolet dealership. Been there several times and since the collection of cars is constantly changing, each visit is a treat.

If you are ever in the Sevierville, Pigeon Forge, Gatlinburg area you really need to include this place on your list of things to do, you won't be disappointed!   :)

http://www.musclecarmuseum.com/map.shtml

Steve

 

No Officer...I really don't know how fast I was going, my speedometer stopped at 140!

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It is the Floyd Garrett's Muscle Car Museum in Sevierville that I was referring to. The car is not there it is in my garage now.

I have a couple other hoods I would have to dig out and check the date codes on the stampings. They are both factory applied black out also. I have a 72 with a crunched hood I can measure side to side and width of border and such on to compare also.

I pretty much have most of the front end components cleaned up. The sway bar, strut rods, spindles and disc brake mounts were pretty crusty so I blasted and cleaned them up.

I removed the trim from the vinyl top, and the rear honeycomb panel and the door sill moldings and gave them a polish. I just got no name oven cleaner and after about 6 applications I gave up and went and got Easy Off and it removed the anodize the first coating.

The door sill moldings are not anodized so they polish easily. If you send the moldings off to be polished they get $37.00 per foot but they will come back perfect. Talking with my friend that does high end restorations and he had sent the stainless trim off the 69 HO Firebird he is doing now and I think it was $2,500 to do all the trim. I looked at it and it is perfect for sure. The aluminum will never look like stainless no matter how you polish.

The procedure the professional uses is a follows.

Straightens any dents or bends, riles, stones and sands back flat just like doing body work, glass beads the entire surface. He says this gives you a uniform surface to then start to polish. Then he buffs with compound until like a mirror.

I stripped the anodize, sanded with I believe 1200 to remove the corrosion the use fine steel wool then went to buffer with couple different compounds then hand polished with cream.

So now I need to get the roof rail molding off and windshield and rear window and do them. Can't find my windshield trim remover have not used in years. I will go buy another one and come home that then find the old one, lol.

I went to get the new tires mounted Friday and friend at the tire store was on holiday so I go back on Monday to get them mounted.

Help did not show up yesterday to remove hood and pull engine I need to get that out so I can clean the engine compartment and the engine. So I pulled one of the tail lights so I can get that trim back shiny. At least the 73 does not have the black out.

Since I am cleaning inside the garage I got a kids swimming pool to catch some of the run off. It is mainly just dust no rust and very little oil or grease. When I was out getting cleaning supplies I noticed that Dawn makes a floor cleaning soap so I got some to try.

Went to a couple parts houses and nobody has the master cylinder repair kits only want to sell you a rebuilt cylinder. So I will look for that some online. Might have to buy a rebuilt one and pull the guts out to keep my original in the car. If bad pitted I would send off to get the brass sleeve put in then will never rust again. Might be ok have not removed yet.

Might pull the gas tank today to get a look inside. If not too bad will pour in denatured alcohol and marbles and let them beat the crud loose.

I left camera in garage so no new pics will update later today.

Cold rain here.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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David, thanks for your comments on the hood black-out. It will be interesting to know If there were any differences between years. I doubt it, but one never knows with Ford. I think that will settle the discussion once and for all.

Great work on the 73, I love reading about your progress.

Geoff.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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It is the Floyd Garrett's Muscle Car Museum in Sevierville that I was referring to. The car is not there it is in my garage now.

I have a couple other hoods I would have to dig out and check the date codes on the stampings. They are both factory applied black out also. I have a 72 with a crunched hood I can measure side to side and width of border and such on to compare also.

I pretty much have most of the front end components cleaned up. The sway bar, strut rods, spindles and disc brake mounts were pretty crusty so I blasted and cleaned them up.

I removed the trim from the vinyl top, and the rear honeycomb panel and the door sill moldings and gave them a polish. I just got no name oven cleaner and after about 6 applications I gave up and went and got Easy Off and it removed the anodize the first coating.

The door sill moldings are not anodized so they polish easily. If you send the moldings off to be polished they get $37.00 per foot but they will come back perfect. Talking with my friend that does high end restorations and he had sent the stainless trim off the 69 HO Firebird he is doing now and I think it was $2,500 to do all the trim. I looked at it and it is perfect for sure. The aluminum will never look like stainless no matter how you polish.

The procedure the professional uses is a follows.

Straightens any dents or bends, riles, stones and sands back flat just like doing body work, glass beads the entire surface. He says this gives you a uniform surface to then start to polish. Then he buffs with compound until like a mirror.

I stripped the anodize, sanded with I believe 1200 to remove the corrosion the use fine steel wool then went to buffer with couple different compounds then hand polished with cream.

So now I need to get the roof rail molding off and windshield and rear window and do them. Can't find my windshield trim remover have not used in years. I will go buy another one and come home that then find the old one, lol.

I went to get the new tires mounted Friday and friend at the tire store was on holiday so I go back on Monday to get them mounted.

Help did not show up yesterday to remove hood and pull engine I need to get that out so I can clean the engine compartment and the engine. So I pulled one of the tail lights so I can get that trim back shiny. At least the 73 does not have the black out.

Since I am cleaning inside the garage I got a kids swimming pool to catch some of the run off. It is mainly just dust no rust and very little oil or grease. When I was out getting cleaning supplies I noticed that Dawn makes a floor cleaning soap so I got some to try.

Went to a couple parts houses and nobody has the master cylinder repair kits only want to sell you a rebuilt cylinder. So I will look for that some online. Might have to buy a rebuilt one and pull the guts out to keep my original in the car. If bad pitted I would send off to get the brass sleeve put in then will never rust again. Might be ok have not removed yet.

Might pull the gas tank today to get a look inside. If not too bad will pour in denatured alcohol and marbles and let them beat the crud loose.

I left camera in garage so no new pics will update later today.

Cold rain here.

 

This thread is worthless without pics...ha ha. Sounds like great progress, can't wait to see.

Jeff

1972 Q Code Convertible

 

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Looking forward to seeing the mustang all cleaned up David. Make sure you take lots of pics before you ship it to NC.

 

John J

 

John,

I only live about 100 miles from the museum in Charlotte. I live in western N.C. in Hendersonville. I go to the swap meet at the track every April also. I will probably take the car down myself.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Ok got some pictures of the newly mount Goodyear tires on the polished Forged Aluminum wheels with NOS center caps. I use SS screws to mount the caps with never seize on the threads. The original screws were self tapping so they broke lots of times when trying to remove them. Self tapping wedges there way into the hole like the door hinge bolts do. The holes are 8-32 size so I used a GH-3 8-32 tap to clean out the holes. The GH is the amount of oversize the tap is. GH-3 is .0015" oversize. When doing tool work if you do not use oversize taps the holes shrink in heat treat and you cannot get the screws in or very tight.

So got the trim for the honey comb panel polished, the trim for the 3/4 vinyl roof and one tail light and the gas cap done. Will spray some clear on them today if it is warm outside.

On the vinyl roof trim. Ford assembly line worker must have dropped one of the clips on the way to the car so one is missing. This is the first time the trim was taken off so has never been there. Does anyone have one clip they can spare? See the pic.

The Goodyear Polyglas RWL tires went on easy. Took to a friends tire shop and he took extra care lubing the beads and indesing all the tires the same. So Goodyear is up and tire valve next to the floor. These tires will never see a road but we did put one on the balance machine and it needed 8 OZ to balance. So we did not balance them. Will just be sitting there in the museuem on them.

The tail lights are always a bear to get apart with that darn sticky orange glue that Ford put on. I will go back with Daniel Carpenter seals they are much better than the Ford sponge ones. Can't see them so nobody knows what is in there. I did clean the housings and sprayed the inside with Satin White to improve the lights. Left the outside of the housings as they came with the over spray from the trunk paint on them.

I got the other tail light out and apart and cleaned. Started taking the roof rail trim off you can see in the pics how the polished vinyl trim next to the roof rail looks.

You cannot polish aluminum to be really shiny. There are soft and hard spots in aluminum and the soft will wear down first making it look like an orange peel. This also happens if you polish a plastic mold incorrectly. You pull the carbon particles out of the steel and it will not go to a mirror finish. The Forged Aluminum wheels do better because of the forging process.

When I did the gas cap I did go find an example of an Autolite and also my car had the Motorcraft replacement with the cable on it. I put that on to prevent theft of the cap. If you zoom in on the two gas caps you can see that the lift one is Motorcraft and the right is Autolite. Ford was forced to sell off Autolite government said it was a monopoly making your own parts, lol. Good old government. So a 71 & 72 would need the Autolite cap and 73 the Motorcraft. I doubt that MCA checks that.

So today to get the roof rail trim off and soaking in oven cleaner.

The trim for the rocker boxes does not have anodize on it so it does better polishing. I used pedestal buffer and couple different compounds. Red to rough it down and white to get a little better then the paste with pad in cordless drill then hand polish. To get into the groves in the rocker box trim I used pieces of a sham, which is like felt, and a flat blade screw drive the get into the low places. Those are the original parts not new ones. An easy one day thing anyone can do at home. I was always careful not to drag my shoes on the trim or paint.

I have lined up a two car enclosed trailer and my nephew has a dually diesel Ford pu and will haul the Mach 2 and the 73 Vert to the museum at same time. I will dolly the vert back after the show and the Mach 1 will stay, how long I do not know.

Should receive a bunch of stuff today from NPD and Daniel Carpenter to keep things moving April will be here too soon.

The honey comb panel is still in one piece most break in the middle. I washed it good and will blast with walnut shells to make it look new. Same with the grill. Both parts were molded with a frosty finish not shiny.

My help to remove the hood did not show on Saturday so I did not get the engine out as planned.

Will keep pushing to get this car taken apart, detailed and put back together.

The picture of the old Goodyear is one I took off the car. It was NOS and never was on the road just rotted sitting there.

When I was in my stash of NOS parts I did find the NOS ram air flappers. One of the members had a question about them once and I do not remember who. I think it was the Pastel Blue in Canada. Anyway there are some pictures of a NOS one. The box has a D3 part number so must have been some change in 73 do not know what it was. I should have bought more of them and put up. There is a used ram air on ebay now and start bid is $3,500, lol. Car did not cost that much.

BTW I used headlight lens polish on the gas cap center and the lens for tail light. The two different cream polishes I used are about the same. Could not tell any difference in look.

If you are doing buffing you never mix the compounds on one wheel. I keep each wheel in a zip lock bag with the compound. You will never gain if you mix them. I did sand the trim with 1,200 grit before any polish and then used fine steel wool to get and even surface. If you fix dents you have to file the surface back flat before polish.

Most people do not get any closer that maybe 5 feet so do not be too critical when you polish or you will never get done. Remember they get $37.00 a foot to polish the trim.

 

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Ok today was not a good day, rain, sleet and getting colder, so no painting.

Did get some of my parts today should get the others tomorrow.

I cleaned the seats and the fold down today. They look brand new. There is no signs of wear on any parts of them with just 12,000 miles should not be much. I did not allow anyone to smoke in the car either not even me when I smoked.

I just used a little Lysol in warm water. The warm water is more for me than cleaning.

I also cleaned the seat guides and put new grease in. So seats are ready to go back in once I get the carpet out to clean and look for that build sheet.

The Ozone generator is getting any smell out even though I am nose blind. Had two sinus surgeries that wiped out taste and smell. You do not want to eat my spicy cooking, lol.

Here are some pictures of the seats they are great I think for originals.

I had mentioned that my console has a Cougar wire harness. The difference was that the Cougar got a light in the astray. The dummy on the line reversed the two light bulbs so they could not plug the wire harness plastic tabs into the console. I reversed the bulbs and they plugged in. No cracks no skinned places and the chrome still shiny on the console. It is bubbled up in the back. When we use to go to drive in movie in winter would sit a can of sterno on console in front of the ash tray. It gets cold in the car with not many clothes on, lol. Did not have to run engine and burn that expensive gas you could not get back then either.

I was shocked that there were no mouse nests under the rear seat. Only thing I found was a 35 mm film case lid. No bags of pot or anything, lol.

So if raining tomorrow get the carpet out and shampoo it and see if there is a build sheet.. 

You can see a line where the sun did fade the carpet where the fold up shades part of it when the seat is up.

I would work like 16 hours a day but damn neck will not let me. My longest time up working on a car was from a Wednesday to a Saturday would go to work and come home and work on the car no sleep the entire time. I did go to sleep on my date on Saturday at the drive in, lol. I put the whole drive line together, engine, transmission and rear and put into the car. Ran great.

Now I spend more time looking for stuff than working. Mind is gone.

 

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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So this morning I go out the door and boom there sits a box from NPD. I thought it was going to be a productive day. I opened it up and there was only one lower control arm and one disc caliper seal kit. Humm, went back to order and somehow it was changed to just one. So I get back online to order another and some other odds and ends. Was going to get new clamps for the heater hoses and went to garage to get a pic of what was original. While there I compared the new lower control arm that is said to be concourse made by Drake to the original. The Chinese put the bushing in for the sway bar the wrong way. Note in the pictures how most of the reinforcement that holds the rubber is on the bottom. The new one has the reinforcement on the top and shape is opposite.

I got on NPD facebook and will see what they say. I will also go look at pictures on other sites to see if the same. Other than that they look the same or close.

Scott Drake does not have a good reputation for sure.

The battery cable set was from NPD but has Marti's label on it will compare it also.

So my productive day of getting the front end back together went away and will loose two or three more days or more.

:@ :shootself:

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Yep it should. The arms that are not concourse are more correct than the expensive ones. They did not dip the end with ball joint in paint on the originals and I think that is what they are calling concourse.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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NPD was very good at getting info for me. Richard Schmidt sent email this morning and I ask more questions. NPD has the last convertible built in 1973 a Cougar with 475 miles on it. The arms are like the repo. My car is the odd man out on this one the repo is correct. I give NPD an A+ for all the follow up of my concerns.

So if you need arms the Drake ones are correct.

There are odd ball things each day on these cars.

Pic of the Cougar arm.

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Needed a brake from all the rust dust so I went to plastic dust, lol.

The front parking lights in my grill looked like no chance to make look decent. The chrome surrounds were all crusty and so was the housing.

I took them apart and of course there was trash isnide the lens that is sonic welded to the white frame. I put a small screw driver in the water drain hole and the lens popped right off so I can polish and clean.

I took fine OO steel wool and tried rubbing the chrome on the plastic. I used the Krylon paint for plastic on the white parts Satin like I use on the tail light housings.

To my surprise it comes back like brand new. So I scuffed the white frame with scotch brite and sanded the remainder of the chrome surround with 500 grit. It is painted with Argent paint. I was shocked at how good they came out. Will glue the lens back on and they are ready to go back into the rill. Going to get it in the bath tub with brush then blast with walnut shells with the honey comb panel.

I got everything loose on the engine and transmission now to find a helper to come get the transmission out. Engine is easy hood and transmission would kill my neck.

Took part of air cond. out under hood and will get rest tomorrow. I hate to see what is in the cowl and heater box. 

Here is picture of the Buck Tag. Should be about as crowded as they come. My car has about every option that alters the body that the buck tag shows. Sport mirrors, rear spoiler, NASA hood with locks, PW, Air, rear window defrost etc. If any of you Buck Tag gurus see something different let me know. What are the A stamped in the corners for? I am thinking the Ginger is for the vinyl top? Let me know what it all means, lol.

There is a number written with grease pencil on the L.F. lower part of the radiator support anyone know what it is? I know at some Ford plants when they had shift change they would write the number of the car built for the shift under where the rear license plate went. Might be similar just to track daily assembly production?   

More parts here tomorrow so I am behind. Lots of cleaning and I need that engine out to do it.

If I did not have the two post lift there is no way I could do this. I put the car where the least pain is to get it done.

Oh BTW. When I put the exhaust bolts in 37 years ago I put never seize on the threads and they came out with no issue.

All of the original belt had rusted to the pulleys so they are no good but will keep.

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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It never stops raining here already over 12" this year and several inches in last couple days.

Well took all the accessories off the engine pulled master cylinder and will get the booster next.

Found some more Factory markings that were hidden behind the alternator. Looks like stamps with inspectors initials on them and big OK stamp.

There was still quite a bit of antifreeze in the radiator the original hoses do not have markings like the repo does. So as usual different. Will clean them a little and get better pics.

Pulled the battery tray out zero rust on it or under it. I washed down with soda when parked.

The distributor had the Ford kit put in to make it mechanical advance only. The arm is cut off going to the vacuum. The points are totally corroded and the condenser that is in there is not the right one. Last time I tried to start it wouldn't and I just stuck any condenser I could find to start. I bet that I won't be able to find but I seem to remember it was the same as used in a flathead Ford and I bet they still make those.

 

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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