Front Suspension Rebuild on my 71

I am researching some much needed work for my 71.  I really need to replace the front suspension.  Its noisy, and loose, ball joints don't have much life on them.

I saw this kit at Ohio Mustang.....

http://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_page.asp?itemid=2358

It seems like a pretty good deal for what you get.

I would like a new set of shocks to go with it.  What are you guys running?

Theres a lot I need to do to this car.  I also have an issue with one of the steering arm ball joints as well.

I want to do disc brakes up front too, but I want something that will clear my 14" wheels (4 wheel Drum brakes at the moment).

I already have a booster to install.  I still think I'm having trouble with my distribution valve.  So I'm going to replace it with a disc/drum prop valve.  Hopefully that will help.

This is one of those projects that I'm going to have to collect parts for several months before I can dive in.  I want to replace everything with a ball joint, disc brakes, clean all the oil and crud off of everything, maybe even remove the fenders and blast all of the underlying sheet metal, epoxy prime, POR-15, and Paint then re-install suspension and fenders.

I have never been a huge fan of "kits". It does not state the manufacturer of the arms etc so quality and longevity would be in questions. I purchased all of the individual parts from Rock Auto using all MOOG stuff. Was very nice quality and price was cheap as well.

Ohio Mustang is one of the better suppliers out there. It would be worth a conversation with them about any of their kits before you purchase one to make sure it fits your needs.

[ I want to replace everything clean all maybe even remove...]

Sounds like we'll have soon a new project thread to read!!

The kit is nice. I might hurt piggy for one of these soon too.

@don if you read this, what is the black on the parts? A basic coating or a durable paint?

While I'm a big supporter of Don and recommend him every chance I get, I never buy suspension or brake parts from a restoration parts supplier unless absolutely necessary.Had a couple bad experiences and with other places and never went back. I now buy those things primarily from RockAuto. Prices are fantastic and you can pick your level of quality. Top of the line Moog components will set you back around the same, possibly less.

While I'm a big supporter of Don and recommend him every chance I get, I never buy suspension or brake parts from a restoration parts supplier unless absolutely necessary.Had a couple bad experiences and with other places and never went back. I now buy those things primarily from RockAuto. Prices are fantastic and you can pick your level of quality. Top of the line Moog components will set you back around the same, possibly less.

Click to expand...

Ok, same question, on these Moog's components, what's the protection on them?

Is it a durable finish or is it that same cheap thin black coating as you see on many parts these days?

It was pretty thick black paint on mine (mood). Took quite a bit to grind it down so I could weld my plates on the bottom of the LCAs.

Make sure you get high quality rubber strut rod bushings. Urethane is too stiff and will lead to strut rod failure (ask me how I know....) and Midolyne (or whatever that stuff is) cracked and fell apart PLUS it is stiff.

From what I know, repro control arms are not as thick as OEM. Rebuilding upper OEM arms can be fussy on the shaft side, but you can get them blasted and powder coated before reassembly.

interesting thoughts guys.

When changing out the control arms, will I need a spring compressor?

Yes. You need to remove the springs.

interesting thoughts guys.

When changing out the control arms, will I need a spring compressor?

I'm trying to make a list of parts. Here is what I have so far

Upper control arms

lower control arms

Strut bushings

Sway bar bushings

Sway bar end links

Shocks

anything else I might need? caster/camber bolt?

You may want to check condition of the front springs. You will need a spring compressor for this job whether you replace springs or not as you have to remove them to do the LCA's and UCA's. I would go with new spring perches.

Below is a link to the spring compressor I purchased. It is the only actual safe way to get the springs out. I have almost had my head taken off by a spring that popped out when the stupid finger type spring compressor let loose.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/66-71-Fairlane-Torino-Ranchero-Coil-Spring-Compressor-FREE-THRUST-BEARING/260594329956?fits=Year%3A1973%7CModel%3AMustang&hash=item3caca1e964:g:nvIAAOSwCJxaRDs~:rk:2f:0

Those are the safest and best type to use. The external type with the fingers that hook on the spring coils are widowmakers.

You can also build your own

http://dazecars.com/dazed/spring.html

I would go with polyurethane roller spring perches!

so how exactly does this thing work? Is there a video on you tube for it?

it comes with directions it was simple and safe. uses the actual spring perch to compress the spring.

ok so I see the abbreviated instructions on the item description. Looks like a great tool. I will add that to my list.

Yes. the two at the bottom attach to the spring perch.

So any preferences on roller spring perches?

I found these at Virginia classic mustang for $200. Seems kind of pricey.

http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/65-73-ROLLER-BEARING-SPRING-PERCHES-PAIR-P167809.aspx



I also saw that there are roller upper and lower control arms. I suppose those would be a good upgrade option as well for the same reasons. Less effort required to move the suspension giving a more responsive ride.

http://opentrackerracing.com/product/track-lower-control-arms-1968-1973-mustang/

http://opentrackerracing.com/product/drag-racing-roller-upper-control-arms-1967-1973-mustang/