When you go back together be sure you torque your nut on your spindle to the spec and back off like they say. Apply the lube where they say on your pads. Another important thing is to use a torque wrench when putting the lugs on. Go from opposite to opposite nut and I usually go 50 ft. lbs. then 80 then 105. I never have an issue with warping rotors. It is easy to warp a rotor with a steel wheel because they are not machined on the back side. The aluminum wheels not so much because they were turned flat on the mounting surface. I use to take torque wrench with me when I got tires to make sure they were right. When I went to Discount Tire they used a torque wrench and went by the book so I keep going back to them.
If you are doing a restore and want to get all the rust off of rotors or drums the molasses tank is very easy and costs much less than the commercial stuff. I hate standing at the blast cabinet and do not like to blast rotors because of getting grit inside.
If you did not rebuild the calipers and put new clips and pins I would. Cheap and gets all the old fluid out and makes sure the pistons are free. Also look at the hoses to make sure they are not coming apart and get new Banjo washers for connections. New fluid in the whole system gets any moisture out.
You have some very good points David, well worth taking note of.
The case I was referring to had nothing to do with the wheels. I had the rotors turned and even though they were still in spec, they warped soon after and I had to buy new ones.
I would agree that turned aluminum wheel interface would likely dissipate some of the heat better than the minimal surface on a stamped steel wheel.
Rotors are in general, pretty cheap these days, probably not much more than the labor to turn them, so why bother.
Just saying.