Direction's flector replacement

Hello everyone,


I need your lights on a technical operation. In the perspective of reducing a relatively large game in the direction, I tightened the adjusting screw of the steering box, which has already improved things. 

I'm also considering changing the flector, which looks like the original look, and that's where I have a doubt. The existing is, as it were, sealed with large rivets flat head too, to release it, I must cut them but there will be no backtrack possible. 

The part I took at CJ is different, with a nut / bolt system. Has any of you ever done this type of operation? Because if it's not good, I find myself blocked and without direction. :-/

You have a tilt column, so that is a unique steering coupler. Before the other reproductions were available, I had used many of the disc replacement kits. You simply need to grind the head off the rivets and disassemble the coupler. Be sure to keep the stamped washers that are part of the original unit, as the supplied round washers don't make a suitable replacement. Make sure you orient the upper and lower cast components as they are shown in your photo when you reassemble it with the new disc.

The flexible steering coupling is commonly called a rag joint. By searching the forum for it you will be able to find a lot of information. Here is an example:

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-steering-column-and-rag-joint-not-what-i-expected?

I do not have lots of detail but here is a picture of a tilt column that I replaced the rag joint on. I got the replacement at local part house was not difficult to find made by Dorman. You do need a kit that supplies the studs that interlock in case the rubber part fails. You cannot see in the picture.

I cut the rivets off using a grinder, in the ragjoint rubber, between the forged parts. Then I used a hammer and an old screwdriver to hammer out the rivets. This way I was able to reuse the forged parts.

Hi,

Finally, I need to change the flector and I want to buy the same.

On Rockauto, I found 2 flectors.

Lares 201 for 13/16 with 31 fluting or

Lares 202 for 3/4 with 36 fluting.

What did I buy for my car? (351 2V 1973)

You can just change the rubber piece and use your old coupler. You do not need to change it. If you want to you would need to remove it and count the splines and measure the diameter and give the info to the supplier.

I would just remove the old coupler glass bead it and paint and like stated cut the old rivets out and bolt on the new rubber connector. Like I stated in past post you need the fasteners that have the post on the end so if the rubber ever fails it interlocks with the metal parts and allows you to still have steering control. Without the posts the wheel would simple spin and no steering. I do not have a good picture to post.

It appears that some tilt columns do not have the pins that engage the flange in case of rag joint failure, and yours is one of them. The couplers are not interchangeable with fixed shaft couplers, because the fixed column has the flange that interfaces the safety pins welded to the shaft. The tilt column flange bolts to the shaft with a single "D" connection and some don't have the safety feature. The coupling flange that bolts to the steering box has 36 splines and for power steering is 13/16" diameter.

You can look at post #11 in this thread for pictures of one of David's steering couplers, that does have the safety flange, and is also bolted to the steering shaft, so is on a tilt column.

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-steering-coupler?page=2

Just thinking out loud so to speak, would it matter if he replaced the rag joint with a Lars 201? As there is not a receiver plate on the tilt column as on the standard column, the pins will not interfere with anything, so I don't see an issue. I could be wrong as I have no personal experience with tilt columns. What do you think guys? Is the spline diameter and count the same i.e. 13/16" X 36?

I suppose he could cut the safety pins off as well and still have a solid rag joint if he wanted to.

Geoff.

Hello everyone,


I need your lights on a technical operation. In the perspective of reducing a relatively large game in the direction, I tightened the adjusting screw of the steering box, which has already improved things. 

I'm also considering changing the flector, which looks like the original look, and that's where I have a doubt. The existing is, as it were, sealed with large rivets flat head too, to release it, I must cut them but there will be no backtrack possible. 

The part I took at CJ is different, with a nut / bolt system. Has any of you ever done this type of operation? Because if it's not good, I find myself blocked and without direction. :-/

Click to expand...

The adjustment nut u tightened is NOT to be messed with on the vehicle. It is set on the bench with inch pound wrench, torqueing it more will wear out the worn drive /gear rack assembly in short order. If u have play in gear box, get it rebuilt out of the car.