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Installing A/C


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My 73 coupe originally had factory air. The previous owner was racing it, so everything was stripped out.  Wondering if it's possible/reasonable to re install factory air, or would aftermarket system be better. I'm not interested in staying stock, just cool.

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The original works fine and should be able to find everything pretty easy. No bad issues with any of the components. Of course convert to new refrigerant.

Hope the PO did not just hack up your wiring to remove. If all the plugs are still there makes it neater and easier. The dash will need to come out to get everything in place again. I have a 72 vert parts car I might be able to get the system out maybe in the summer. Issues with neck now.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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I am in the same boat except I am missing everything under the hood. everything inside the car is still there.

 

so over the holidays I purchased all the necessary parts to install ac under the hood. I am converting to sanden pump.

Anyways, I'll try to document the install process as much as I can

cheers

Alex

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I have 2-3 sets of everything original

Did they remove all the dash ducts vents and all

I haven't pulled the dash apart so I don't know what is or isn't there.  I don't even think there is a heater core as the hoses are not there.  I'm a little afraid to go in, actually...

 

 

 If I buy the original stuff, will it work with the new refrigerant ?  Also, most people like the "sanden style" compressers.  Thoughts?

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Yes the original works with new refrigerant. I even went to the latest that is not sold in U.S. yet called Duracool. Takes way less just a little over one can to fill a dry vacuumed system. http://duracool.com/Duracool/distributionsales.html

 

You will use the new o-rings made for the new coolant. You can get vacuum pump and charging gages at Harbor Freight for less than a station will charge you to do the vac and fill.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Yes the original works with new refrigerant. I even went to the latest that is not sold in U.S. yet called Duracool. Takes way less just a little over one can to fill a dry vacuumed system. http://duracool.com/Duracool/distributionsales.html

 

You will use the new o-rings made for the new coolant. You can get vacuum pump and charging gages at Harbor Freight for less than a station will charge you to do the vac and fill.

 

Are the original AC hoses compatible with 134A refrigerant?

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Yes the hoses are, but the original style seals are not. will need all new O-rings as mentioned above that are compatible with 134A

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Are there any O-Rings under the dash that have to be changed out? If so, I suppose you have to remove the dash pad to get to them?

I need to convert mine to 134a. I have all the stuff, just havnt had time to get into it.

"I drank what?" - Socrates

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I do believe that the last connection point is in the engine bay at the firewall. I do not think there are any connections IE O-Rings inside the car.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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I do believe that the last connection point is in the engine bay at the firewall. I do not think there are any connections IE O-Rings inside the car.

 

Confirm this.  Hoses should be O K ( see note below ) but new O'rings ( generally light green, Viton material ) will need to go on all end connections.  The last component is the T X valve on the engine side of the firewall.  All under dash items are metallic  Be aware also that there is a vacuum controlled tap in the inlet heater hose.  It is actuated from inside and will restrict the hot water flow to the heater core when the A / C is turned on.    You will see all this in a vacuum schematic diagram.  Worth a look before you start.

 

I am in Australia and regs require flexible lines with nylon tube to avoid permeation of gas through old style rubber hoses.  You may want to check this out with an A / C installation service agent so you don't have to do it twice. Dig out some Youtube videos on the procedure to run a full vacuum test before you try to re - gas it.  Mine looked all good but the T X valve was jammed closed.

Have fun.

PKJ

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